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mekyabetsu
Dec 17, 2018

How hard could it be to recaulk a shower? According to the internet, a complete idiot can take care of it in a couple hours!

:mad:

How the hell are you supposed to remove the caulk from deep gaps like this?



I've been digging at this poo poo for over an hour. At this rate, I should have all the old caulk removed by Labor Day. I've sprayed caulk remover (this smelly garbage) into the gap, picked at it with needle nose pliers, and the end result looks like a family of ferrets gnawed on it.

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

mekyabetsu posted:

How hard could it be to recaulk a shower? According to the internet, a complete idiot can take care of it in a couple hours!

:mad:

How the hell are you supposed to remove the caulk from deep gaps like this?



I've been digging at this poo poo for over an hour. At this rate, I should have all the old caulk removed by Labor Day. I've sprayed caulk remover (this smelly garbage) into the gap, picked at it with needle nose pliers, and the end result looks like a family of ferrets gnawed on it.

I would just use an olfa blade/box cutter with the blade fully extended, flush with the wall and and then flush with the edge of the tub and cut that section out. Like, with the knife in a vertical orientation.

e: that looks more like expanding foam than caulk to me. Could be that it's just that beat up but yeah.

teen witch
Oct 9, 2012
Teen warlock and I have a new little etage apartment and we hate the doctors office style wallpaper everywhere!!

So we painted over it…sans primer…

It turned out ok but what a loving nightmare taking the tape off was. The wallpaper wasn’t put on really well (thanks municipal rental!), so we have parts where the tape came clean off and left a nice line, and parts where it very much did not. Thankfully the living room is the only room we’ve done this in, but we have a lot of other rooms to eventually cover.

I’m thinking that, much to my partner’s dismay, we need to remove the wallpaper before we paint a wall again for a better experience. However, I’ve read that there is a primer that we can put on top of the wallpaper, which I’m open to.

What would y’all do in this sitch? I’m planning on doing a mural wall in my studio so I think I have to do something for the acrylics to work as well.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
Removing wallpaper can go pretty easy if the wall was properly sized and sealed before it was hung, or it can be a complete nightmare to get off and then require repairs to fix the wall itself. You really don't know how it will go until you try. There are various products and tools to help remove it like scoring tools, remover sprays and gels, and steamer machines. Some people swear by hot water and liquid fabric softener.

You can certainly paint over it, usually the biggest risk with this is that the primer/paint will loosen the wallpaper adhesive and make the seams lift. You may also be able to see the seams once painted or if there's any kind of texture you can feel running your hands over the paper it might be visible to some extent. I'm not aware of any specialty primers for going over wallcoverings but most higher quality interior/exterior multipurpose primers should work well, Zinsser Bullseye 123 or Sherwin Williams Problock Latex ought to work but a test area is always a good idea to ensure good adhesion and that it doesn't lift the wallpaper.

teen witch
Oct 9, 2012

Final Blog Entry posted:

Removing wallpaper can go pretty easy if the wall was properly sized and sealed before it was hung, or it can be a complete nightmare to get off and then require repairs to fix the wall itself. You really don't know how it will go until you try. There are various products and tools to help remove it like scoring tools, remover sprays and gels, and steamer machines. Some people swear by hot water and liquid fabric softener.

You can certainly paint over it, usually the biggest risk with this is that the primer/paint will loosen the wallpaper adhesive and make the seams lift. You may also be able to see the seams once painted or if there's any kind of texture you can feel running your hands over the paper it might be visible to some extent. I'm not aware of any specialty primers for going over wallcoverings but most higher quality interior/exterior multipurpose primers should work well, Zinsser Bullseye 123 or Sherwin Williams Problock Latex ought to work but a test area is always a good idea to ensure good adhesion and that it doesn't lift the wallpaper.

The thing is is that we’re guessing the company slapped on the cheapest crap they could find. The job itself isn’t too great, like the bland pattern works but it isn’t a *neat* job.

For the most part I don’t mind the wallpaper seams visible, as long as the color is correct. However as I’m painting a mural in my studio, that does worry me. I want to use acrylic artist grade paints which should be fine but I’d like a white primer underneath to ensure an even color and not “is this individual paint going to mask the crap pattern”.

I guess I’ll keep most of the wallpaper up in that regard? The painters tape peeling the wallpaper when removed is a pain, but I guess we just paint room and remove tape immediately after finishing instead of after a few hours. Just not a fan of the tearing

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
Anecdote: my old house had 70s wallpaper in the kitchen that was hideous. Taking it off wasn't that hard. Used one of the roller tools that pokes a bunch of holes in it, hit that with the chemical, and then rented a steamer to peel it off with.

What loving sucked was then fixing the walls after because they just put it up with nonprep and the plaster under was hosed. I ended up basically skim costing the walls, and I am not good at skim coating so that sucked too.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

stealie72 posted:

Anecdote: my old house had 70s wallpaper in the kitchen that was hideous. Taking it off wasn't that hard. Used one of the roller tools that pokes a bunch of holes in it, hit that with the chemical, and then rented a steamer to peel it off with.

What loving sucked was then fixing the walls after because they just put it up with nonprep and the plaster under was hosed. I ended up basically skim costing the walls, and I am not good at skim coating so that sucked too.

My parents did that in our house when I was a kid. They ended up putting 1/4" drywall over everything though instead of skim coating.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
If regular blue tape is peeling off the paper see if you can find a delicate surface tape, it's a little lower adhesive than the blue. I believe 3M's is purple or there's a yellow Frogtape. And like you said, don't leave the tape up longer than necessary

teen witch
Oct 9, 2012

Final Blog Entry posted:

If regular blue tape is peeling off the paper see if you can find a delicate surface tape, it's a little lower adhesive than the blue. I believe 3M's is purple or there's a yellow Frogtape. And like you said, don't leave the tape up longer than necessary

Sweden so I’ll see what the equivalent is. I might also invest in one of those weird corner painter thingies though I still think they’re a gimmick

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

teen witch posted:

Sweden so I’ll see what the equivalent is. I might also invest in one of those weird corner painter thingies though I still think they’re a gimmick

Those sponge on a straight edge things are amazing. Refill it 2-3x as often as you think you should. It's like the rough side of velcro.

Also you said muni rental - is this allowed? I don't know how the swedes do things.

teen witch
Oct 9, 2012

H110Hawk posted:

Those sponge on a straight edge things are amazing. Refill it 2-3x as often as you think you should. It's like the rough side of velcro.

Also you said muni rental - is this allowed? I don't know how the swedes do things.

Yeah it’s allowed but as long as it’s gone when you move out, and even then if they remodel it it’s nbd

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007

FogHelmut posted:

My parents did that in our house when I was a kid. They ended up putting 1/4" drywall over everything though instead of skim coating.

I should have done that. But it started as "let me just smooth these rough sections over" them "poo poo, thats lumpy. I need to feather these out more. And now they're touching. gently caress. Guess I'm skim coating."

Alfred P. Pseudonym
May 29, 2006

And when you gaze long into an abyss, the abyss goes 8-8

Got a quick question about installing my washer. Just moved into a new house and the drain pipe is horizontal instead of vertical.

I tried sticking the drain hose in as far as I could and tried to get it around the corner but water keeps coming back out. What can I do about this? Do I need to add on a standpipe to the existing pipe?

Jose Cuervo
Aug 25, 2004
Short of disconnecting the AC condensor unit and removing the capacitor, is there somewhere online where I can find the specifications of the two capacitors used in the unit (a TRANE 16XLi, Model: 4TWX6024B1000AA)? The metal band holding it in place is blocking the label right now...

I have tried searching online but all I can find is the installers guide manual, but nothing that tells me what capacitors are used.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Jose Cuervo posted:

Short of disconnecting the AC condensor unit and removing the capacitor, is there somewhere online where I can find the specifications of the two capacitors used in the unit (a TRANE 16XLi, Model: 4TWX6024B1000AA)? The metal band holding it in place is blocking the label right now...

I have tried searching online but all I can find is the installers guide manual, but nothing that tells me what capacitors are used.

https://www.northamericahvac.com/trane-start-capacitor-135-162-uf-mfd-330-volt-cpt00269/

I don't know if it's right but Google (with quotes): "4TWX6024B1000AA" replacement start capacitor

Should get you a bunch of sites trying to sell them to you. They should all be listing the same specs. If so, that's almost certainly it.

Jose Cuervo
Aug 25, 2004

H110Hawk posted:

https://www.northamericahvac.com/trane-start-capacitor-135-162-uf-mfd-330-volt-cpt00269/

I don't know if it's right but Google (with quotes): "4TWX6024B1000AA" replacement start capacitor

Should get you a bunch of sites trying to sell them to you. They should all be listing the same specs. If so, that's almost certainly it.

Not sure why I didn't try that! Thanks!

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Let's say I wanted to build my dog a soundproofed crate, to help him survive firework season with a minimum of stress. How would I go about doing this? I assume I'd want to build a regular crate, but line it with some kind of soundproofing layer or insulation. But I have zero experience with soundproofing, so I wouldn't know what products are appropriate.

EDIT: how much benefit do you think I would get from just covering the windows (in the room my dog's crate is in) over with some kind of sound dampening material? That feels like it'd be a much less involved job. I still don't know what material would be appropriate though. Ideally it'd be easy to add/remove so I can still have sunlight during the day, because that room doubles as my office.

TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Jul 3, 2021

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Let's say I wanted to build my dog a soundproofed crate, to help him survive firework season with a minimum of stress. How would I go about doing this? I assume I'd want to build a regular crate, but line it with some kind of soundproofing layer or insulation. But I have zero experience with soundproofing, so I wouldn't know what products are appropriate.

EDIT: how much benefit do you think I would get from just covering the windows (in the room my dog's crate is in) over with some kind of sound dampening material? That feels like it'd be a much less involved job. I still don't know what material would be appropriate though. Ideally it'd be easy to add/remove so I can still have sunlight during the day, because that room doubles as my office.

Bunch of thrift shop towels over regular wire crate and maybe some air circulation around.

It's like stupid effective for cheap.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes

Fruit Smoothies
Mar 28, 2004

The bat with a ZING
Any idea how to get this paint off? How do I know if the wood below is good? And what sort of procedure should I use on it to give it its best life! Tia

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

Fruit Smoothies posted:

Any idea how to get this paint off? How do I know if the wood below is good? And what sort of procedure should I use on it to give it its best life! Tia



Heat gun with a scraper. But you do need to be careful in case it's lead paint so wear a respirator. As to the wood's condition- only way to check is to peel off the paint and visually inspect it afterwards. Assume lots of water damage since it's a window sill. You could use a chemical stripper like Circa 1850, but I'd try heat gun approach first.

Those old windows looking rough, though. Peeling off the paint might also remove the old caulking hidden beneath, if there is any. Any money in the budget for new windows? Because new windows would not only look and insulate better but the installers should also "cap" the windows (ie. add a decorative aluminum trim all around) that would nicely protect the areas around the window frame. I am not a window salesmen- just a guy who got new windows installed in an old home like yours and I loving love them.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Let's say I wanted to build my dog a soundproofed crate, to help him survive firework season with a minimum of stress. How would I go about doing this? I assume I'd want to build a regular crate, but line it with some kind of soundproofing layer or insulation. But I have zero experience with soundproofing, so I wouldn't know what products are appropriate.

EDIT: how much benefit do you think I would get from just covering the windows (in the room my dog's crate is in) over with some kind of sound dampening material? That feels like it'd be a much less involved job. I still don't know what material would be appropriate though. Ideally it'd be easy to add/remove so I can still have sunlight during the day, because that room doubles as my office.
I've been looking for sound-dampening curtains for a while but haven't had much luck because a lot of the products online are sketchy made-in-China products with a bunch of bought-off reviews. They make all sorts of unbelievable promises that defy physics and it seems more like they reduce noise echo within a room instead of eliminating noise coming THROUGH windows. At best they might "reduce" sound a bit, but for our canine pals with much sensitive hearing I don't think they'll do much.

I came across this product called "AcousticCurtain" which seems to be the only somewhat realistic product on the market since it uses velcro to seal the edges but haven't tried it myself. Also been trying to contact them to do a review and field test but they haven't gotten back to me. So I'd take their soundproofing claims with a grain of salt. But note that sound dampening products work best against high frequency sounds and I'm pretty sure that fireworks are low AND high frequency in nature.

Try Wasabi the J's approach first. Or maybe watch this clip from Nathan For You where he made a soundproof sex box for parents staying at hotels. It shows how involved soundproofing has to be.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Jan 15, 2024

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Wasabi the J posted:

Bunch of thrift shop towels over regular wire crate and maybe some air circulation around.

It's like stupid effective for cheap.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes

Dang, thanks, that looks like a winner. Always nice to see people test their setups and show their data, too. I think my goal for today will be to go buy a bunch of thrift towels and layer them across the window in my office. That's an easier job than trying to cover my dog's entire (custom-built) crate and should hopefully block the primary "access route" for firework noise.

melon cat posted:

I've been looking for sound-dampening curtains for a while but haven't had much luck because a lot of the products online are sketchy made-in-China products with a bunch of bought-off reviews. They make all sorts of unbelievable promises that defy physics and it seems more like they reduce noise echo within a room instead of eliminating noise coming THROUGH windows. At best they might "reduce" sound a bit, but for our canine pals with much sensitive hearing I don't think they'll do much.
Yeah, my main concern has been to keep sounds occurring outside the room from getting in, and most sound solutions seem geared towards reducing reverb so that audio artists can collect dry samples. These are related (per the video that Wasabi the J linked) but I'm not sure they're always identical.

quote:

Try Wasabi the J's approach first. Or maybe watch this clip from Nathan For You where he made a soundproof sex box for parents staying at hotels. It shows how involved soundproofing has to be.

:psyboom:

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Dang, thanks, that looks like a winner. Always nice to see people test their setups and show their data, too. I think my goal for today will be to go buy a bunch of thrift towels and layer them across the window in my office. That's an easier job than trying to cover my dog's entire (custom-built) crate and should hopefully block the primary "access route" for firework noise.

Yeah, my main concern has been to keep sounds occurring outside the room from getting in, and most sound solutions seem geared towards reducing reverb so that audio artists can collect dry samples. These are related (per the video that Wasabi the J linked) but I'm not sure they're always identical.

:psyboom:

Not really the DIY solution, but my parents' dog really benefited from one of those thundervest things and would come find someone to put it on her when it started thundering.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Not really the DIY solution, but my parents' dog really benefited from one of those thundervest things and would come find someone to put it on her when it started thundering.

Yeah, I have one of those. Unfortunately, it doesn't help my dog; he reacts by basically getting paralyzed, aside from the fear trembling because of the fireworks.

I picked up a dozen towels from Goodwill for $16. Now to figure out how to rig them up in a way that's secure and gives good coverage with minimal damage to the wall.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Yeah, I have one of those. Unfortunately, it doesn't help my dog; he reacts by basically getting paralyzed, aside from the fear trembling because of the fireworks.

I picked up a dozen towels from Goodwill for $16. Now to figure out how to rig them up in a way that's secure and gives good coverage with minimal damage to the wall.

I'd just move the crate to a room with no exterior walls, if you have one, and drape the crate in the towels.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Khizan posted:

I'd just move the crate to a room with no exterior walls, if you have one, and drape the crate in the towels.

Unfortunately, the only "rooms" with no exterior walls are closets, which the crate doesn't fit in.

We're going to try this for tonight, combined with a fan for white noise:



Two layers of towels over everything, except the back (which has 3 layers, but no plywood), the left (no towels, but abuts an interior wall), and the entrance. I'll probably layer some old sheets or something across the entrance once he beds down for the night.

One potential issue is that I built this "crate" with no closing door, so I can't secure him inside of it. And his fear response includes exiting the crate to hide under my desk, where the noise will be louder :cripes:

(ed: yes, that's a collapsible wire crate on the left; his bed doesn't fit in it, which is a big part of why I built the wood/plywood crate in the first place)

teen witch
Oct 9, 2012
wow the more I move in the more questions I have! So we have beads bees in a spot underneath our deck. They’re lil bumblebees, so I really don’t want to kill them, but they’re kind of annoying. Ideas…?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


teen witch posted:

wow the more I move in the more questions I have! So we have beads bees in a spot underneath our deck. They’re lil bumblebees, so I really don’t want to kill them, but they’re kind of annoying. Ideas…?

call a bee guy to come get the bees

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

teen witch posted:

wow the more I move in the more questions I have! So we have beads bees in a spot underneath our deck. They’re lil bumblebees, so I really don’t want to kill them, but they’re kind of annoying. Ideas…?

Don't go on the bee's deck. You're welcome.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



teen witch posted:

wow the more I move in the more questions I have! So we have beads bees in a spot underneath our deck. They’re l'il bumblebees, so I really don’t want to kill them, but they’re kind of annoying. Ideas…?

If they're large, fuzzy solitary, and there's no hive, then they're carpenter bees. They drill a precisely 5/8" hole into the underside of your framing lumber; this hole goes up about an inch, then makes a 90-degree turn, usually to the left; that's where the egg is laid by the female, while the males hover around outside, attempting to chase away anything that gets close. They won't hurt you unless you hurt them. They're pollinators, and I find them adorable. They are boring holes in your deck, but it'll take 50-years for anything to come of it.

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat
The walls of our finished basement are painted with...let's call them vibrant colors. We eventually want to repaint the whole thing one slightly more neutral tone. We still have a couple of gallons of the white paint we used to paint the ground floor when we moved in a couple of months ago. Could I get away with putting a coat of that white paint on those basement walls as a "primer", before painting it for real at some to-be-determined point in the future?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

C-Euro posted:

The walls of our finished basement are painted with...let's call them vibrant colors. We eventually want to repaint the whole thing one slightly more neutral tone. We still have a couple of gallons of the white paint we used to paint the ground floor when we moved in a couple of months ago. Could I get away with putting a coat of that white paint on those basement walls as a "primer", before painting it for real at some to-be-determined point in the future?

If you are just trying to knock down the colors to something your tinted coat would actually cover sure.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Get a 5 gal bucket of kilz and go hog wild.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005





Went to clean the shower we never really use in preparation of guests arriving and discovered this crack in the wall of the shower. As far as I know it's a fiberglass unit. The crack is about 1/2-3/4" long. It almost looks like some sort of fastener behind the wall is a bit proud of the surface and maybe someone leaning on the wall caused the crack to happen.

Anyway does this guide seem like the right repair approach? If not, suggested methods and products?

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/clean-lime-scale-fiberglass-showers-92664.html

edit: corrected link - https://homeguides.sfgate.com/fix-cracked-fiberglass-shower-stall-102343.html

tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jul 6, 2021

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

These are cleaning directions.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Danhenge posted:

These are cleaning directions.

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/fix-cracked-fiberglass-shower-stall-102343.html

Haha damnit I don't know how that happened, this is what I was trying to link.

Omne
Jul 12, 2003

Orangedude Forever

What's the best way to fix interior inside-corner cracks and outside-corner nicks? Just some DAP paintable caulk for the inside? Everything I find for the outside is full-on corner bead repairs, which I don't need. Spackle?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Omne posted:

What's the best way to fix interior inside-corner cracks and outside-corner nicks? Just some DAP paintable caulk for the inside? Everything I find for the outside is full-on corner bead repairs, which I don't need. Spackle?

patching compound?

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
Check out something like DAP elastopatch

Corla Plankun
May 8, 2007

improve the lives of everyone
My neighbor just informed me that we've got roots beginning to intrude into our line to the sewer. The only plants nearby are mine so one of these is probably the culprit. Are any of these easy to place blame on and/or rule out? I am not particularly attached to them so I don't mind pulling anything out but it would be a lot of work to depopulate the entire zone.




The sewer lines are running down the lawn (parallel to the two driveways) behind this cluster of plants.

(I know I should've ripped the dead stuff out ages ago after it died in the February freeze, but when I went to do it at the beginning of the summer there were tons of delightful little critters living in there so I'm letting the dead stuff stay until fall.)

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Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Usually I would expect the problem to be trees, not shrubs. Are there any trees within 10 or so feet of the line?

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