Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
eSporks
Jun 10, 2011

Platystemon posted:

If you need to be tidy, water the plants, then take away the saucer after the excess water has drained away.
I will often water by moving plants into the bathtub or sink. Let them soak really good, then once it stops dripping put them back in the location. Works good for things like cacti that like heavy but infrequent watering. With this method you don't need a drip tray at all.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

uranium grass
Jan 15, 2005

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I'm death to houseplants, but I think this corner could use a houseplant:

That was taken around noon and that's about as bright as it gets in summer-maybe gets a bit more in winter when the sun is lower. It gets some spillover light from the fluorescent in the kitchen in the evenings. I want something big and tall-ish, more like a monstera or some kind of palmy thing, not like a peace lily. It's pretty humid in my house, and in the winter I let it get down to the mid-50s sometimes-no idea if that matters for tropical stuff.

Anything y'all could recommend?

big ol fern will do well in low light and humidity

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I'm death to houseplants, but I think this corner could use a houseplant:

That was taken around noon and that's about as bright as it gets in summer-maybe gets a bit more in winter when the sun is lower. It gets some spillover light from the fluorescent in the kitchen in the evenings. I want something big and tall-ish, more like a monstera or some kind of palmy thing, not like a peace lily. It's pretty humid in my house, and in the winter I let it get down to the mid-50s sometimes-no idea if that matters for tropical stuff.

Anything y'all could recommend?

Do you have a monstera? If you don’t have a monstera yet, put a monstera there. They’re p bulletproof

Also if you’re open to lighting that corner you could put a wide variety of stuff there.

Yoruichi
Sep 21, 2017


Horse Facts

True and Interesting Facts about Horse


Platystemon posted:

No, never.

Get a ceramic bit and drill out the teapot if you need to.

If you need to be tidy, water the plants, then take away the saucer after the excess water has drained away.

So I bought a cactus in a neat pot, with no holes,and I thought, huh, if people do this maybe it's ok??

But I will listen to you and repot it! Then see if I can drill a couple of holes without cracking it :)

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Anything y'all could recommend?

There's a whole bunch of varieties of upright Dracaena that would probably be fine if you want something palmy. Some of them will go dormant or at least stop growing if you leave them in the 50s for a sustained period (so will monstera for that matter) but that probably doesn't matter.

What does death to houseplants actually mean? Most houseplants are pretty easy to keep alive as long as you don't forget that they exist—if that's what's killing them you may want to pick something that can deal with being forgotten for a while.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Wallet posted:

What does death to houseplants actually mean? Most houseplants are pretty easy to keep alive as long as you don't forget that they exist—if that's what's killing them you may want to pick something that can deal with being forgotten for a while.
I just seem to get a few months out of them and then they start fading and I don't know how to intervene. I'm probably not super diligent about watering, but I've also thought they don't get enough light. I've killed some kind of bromeliad and a bigger ???? houseplant I can't remember.

eSporks
Jun 10, 2011

Yoruichi posted:

But I will listen to you and repot it! Then see if I can drill a couple of holes without cracking it :)
Use a masonry bit if you can, identifiable by the flat protrusion for the cutting edge. GIS will show you what I mean. Place some painters tape when you plan to drill, this will both keep the bit from walking, and aid in preventing cracks. Use water to cool the bit and go slowly, if the material is porous, like terracotta, soak it before trying to cut.
I've drilled plenty of terracotta and glazed pottery this way.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I just seem to get a few months out of them and then they start fading and I don't know how to intervene. I'm probably not super diligent about watering, but I've also thought they don't get enough light. I've killed some kind of bromeliad and a bigger ???? houseplant I can't remember.

If you take a quick peek at your plants twice a week or whatever you'll usually notice any problems early enough that they are easy to correct (even if you don't know what's causing it, google or posting in a thread like this one can point you in the right direction). Once the problem is screaming at you from across the room things are a lot harder. Basically every plant I've had a bad time with has been because I wasn't paying attention or I decided to wait instead of addressing a problem as soon as I saw something going wrong. People obviously grow orchids and poo poo which can be substantially more complicated, but most houseplants are houseplants because they are pretty easy to keep alive and healthy in a house.

If you just want something that looks decent and is difficult to kill you can probably find an upright Dracaena basically anywhere that sells houseplants (fragrans and marginata seem to be the most commonly sold). As long as you water it once a month or so it will be fine (the only easy way to kill them is to water them too often)—like most things they aren't going to grow a ton in low light. Beaucarnea recurvata (common name is usually Ponytail Palm) will similarly be fine in low light with the occasional watering.

skylined!
Apr 6, 2012

THE DEM DEFENDER HAS LOGGED ON
This thing just keeps spitting out flowers. I woke up to all 8 buds in bloom this morning. Crazy.



extravadanza
Oct 19, 2007

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I'm death to houseplants, but I think this corner could use a houseplant:

That was taken around noon and that's about as bright as it gets in summer-maybe gets a bit more in winter when the sun is lower. It gets some spillover light from the fluorescent in the kitchen in the evenings. I want something big and tall-ish, more like a monstera or some kind of palmy thing, not like a peace lily. It's pretty humid in my house, and in the winter I let it get down to the mid-50s sometimes-no idea if that matters for tropical stuff.

Anything y'all could recommend?

A big tall snake plant might be nice. VERY easy to care for.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



I need to trim one of my peach trees in the next few days, and I need to post some pics and get some advice from this thread on where to cut.

I’ve read that peach trees are prone to putting out excess growth leading to a lot of weak branches and problems later on, and that some light pruning is necessary during the growing season to ensure that any new growth is strong and healthy. I’ve also read that the best time to do this is mid-to-late June, meaning my window of opportunity is closing fast.

skylined!
Apr 6, 2012

THE DEM DEFENDER HAS LOGGED ON
So our one of our older houseplants, an oxalis, has some white spots on it. My wife is freaking out. Plant seems fine - I repotted it today (it had been in the same soil for the last 5 years). The rhizomes are all at least 3 inches long and not rotted, plant is still putting out new leaves; it's fine. But she wants me to ask. Does anyone know what these spots are? I am guessing some sort of mild fungal infection; we put it outside in the rain for water a few weeks ago and then they showed up. Could it also be some sort of nutrient deficiency, given the age of the soil? It's not scale, but not exactly sure what it is otherwise.

Sorry for the not great pics, I tried to get as close as I could.





Solkanar512
Dec 28, 2006

by the sex ghost
Survived the PNW heat wave! One maple with moderate (but recoverable) leaf scorch, and two others with a few leaves here and there, hostas and raspberries aren't happy but a whole bunch of watermelon volunteers are.

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal
I could use some advice about a tree wound on my PawPaw tree:



I don’t know if it was a windstorm or stray neighborhood cat trying to parkour the tree to get over my privacy fence, but one of the top Y branch sections snapped while I was on vacation last week. The tree is about 9’ tall, and the branch was about 4’ long, right at the crook where the tree split into a vertical Y.

I saw conflicting advice about what to do, but just decided to try and trim it as flush as I could, since the bark was the only thing leaving it attached and all the leaves were dying. Unfortunately this leaves a horizontal wound in the tree and I’m not sure if I should apply any salve or seal it in any way, or let nature heal itself.

Thanks in advance!

Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




Tree sealant is counterproductive 99% of the time. It just encourages moisture retention and fungal growth. Flat & flush pruning like you did is preferred because it helps the tree to heal best on its own.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


It looks like it was a narrow/weak crotch with a lot of included bark that would have broken someday anyway. Better that it happened sooner rather than later.

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal
Thank you! That’s really good to know, and definitely helps me feel a lot better… hopefully the tree will heal itself up, I’m pretty emotionally invested in it :(

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Any of you folks have any good sources for Trillium bulbs that don't cost a fortune? I have a couple that I happened to find volunteering along the side of my driveway that I moved to the garden and I'd love to get some more but gently caress if they aren't expensive as poo poo.

OSU_Matthew posted:

Thank you! That’s really good to know, and definitely helps me feel a lot better… hopefully the tree will heal itself up, I’m pretty emotionally invested in it :(

There's a really great guide for pruning trees in the third post in the thread right after the OP which is worth checking out for a good primer on how to safely prune things. Really narrow crotches like that are bad news and usually worth pruning early before the tree pumps a lot of effort into them, particularly if bark is included.

big dyke energy
Jul 29, 2006

Football? Yaaaay
Well, after that insane heatwave we just had in Portland, my fuschia has dropped almost all its leaves and all my other plants are looking raggedy as poo poo :smith: I mostly have shady perennials too, they seemed to take it way harder. This is my first year actually growing anything on my balcony and I'm so bummed this happened!!

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Also someone on Etsy had listed a couple of the speckled brown stinkflowers famous for gracing not one but two plant thread OPs (Edithcolea grandis) at a reasonable price so I picked one up and it came in today. Wonder how old they have to be before they stink up the place.

Bi-la kaifa
Feb 4, 2011

Space maggots.

All the new growth on my rhododendrons have gone brown and crispy from the heat. They were finally doing well after getting some irrigation set up and a good mulch. So frustrating to have it all taken back now. I feel like that horticulture in a nutshell though.

Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




I got a new ant plant!

Mad Hamish
Jun 15, 2008

WILL AMOUNT TO NOTHING IN LIFE.



Does anyone have any suggestions for a....decoy plant or.....something that I can put in my garden that will be more attractive to leaf-cutter bees than my rosebush? The one I had in this spot last year got badly defoliated by them and didn't survive the winter, so I replaced it and they're going after the new one. It's just the one rose, too, the other rose like two feet away is of no interest to them at all, apparently.

I don't want to spray or anything because I don't want to hurt the bees, but I'd rather they go after a plant that's not my roses, you know? Any suggestions for something that might be more attractive to them? I'm in southern Ontario if that's of any importance.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!


yesssss....this is why I spent $24.98

cant fuckin wait

T. grandiflorus hybrid, looks like it’s gonna be a white flower, which is maybe a bit of a bummer for me as I was hoping for red or yellow since the grandiflorus next to it is a Sun Goddess, but also I have another smaller one that I think is orange.

All will be forgiven, cactus, https://youtu.be/KlTFADCkNe8

ReapersTouch
Nov 25, 2004

Goodness no, now that wouldn't do at all!
My two coreopsis have seems to develop some sort of rot and have died. We've been getting a decent amount of rain this past few days, so that's a bummer. However, I did buy an agapanthus and ruby slippers oakleaf hydrangea.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



Wallet posted:

There's a really great guide for pruning trees in the third post in the thread right after the OP which is worth checking out for a good primer on how to safely prune things. Really narrow crotches like that are bad news and usually worth pruning early before the tree pumps a lot of effort into them, particularly if bark is included.

I probably should’ve read this before I trimmed back my peach tree the other day. Although the shoots I cut off were adding more weight and wind resistance than the limbs were able to support, so under the circumstances I think I did what I had to.

I just wish it didn’t look so fucky now. :gonk:

StratGoatCom
Aug 6, 2019

Our security is guaranteed by being able to melt the eyeballs of any other forum's denizens at 15 minutes notice




Hell kind of plant is this, and how do I take care of it?

My dad got it for me at and didn't give me the first clue on what it is or what it wants.

Bloody Cat Farm
Oct 20, 2010

I can smell your pussy, Clarice.
Echeveria. It needs lots of light. It looks like it hasn’t been getting enough light.

StratGoatCom
Aug 6, 2019

Our security is guaranteed by being able to melt the eyeballs of any other forum's denizens at 15 minutes notice


That may be a problem, considering that it lives in my front window which is the brightest place in the whole appt.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

StratGoatCom posted:

That may be a problem, considering that it lives in my front window which is the brightest place in the whole appt.

Eh, they aren't the best houseplants in general because they need intense light. It won't kill it or anything, it'll just get a bit leggy and poo poo.

My bigger concern would be water retention. I don't know what it's planted in but I sure hope that little pot has a drainage hole, and the river rocks on top may look cute but they really aren't an appropriate top dressing as they're non porous.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

StratGoatCom posted:

That may be a problem, considering that it lives in my front window which is the brightest place in the whole appt.

Put it outside for the summer (until like October) and under an inexpensive light indoors.

It’s all etiolated and long now, but you can chop the trunk right under the artichoke bit, stick it back in the soil (ideally put some rooting hormone compound on it, but you really don’t have to), and have a nice squat plant again.

Don’t throw out the cut trunk- it’ll start to grow babies.

Echeveria are crazy propagators- you’ll see it drop leaves at various points in the season and grow clones from them. If you really wanted to, you could chop that plant up and every leaf and cutting would eventually grow into some baby Echeveria

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

Wallet posted:

Tree Pruning Essentials - A decent primer from Purdue's extension on how and why to prune your trees.
Pruning Ornamental Trees and Shrubs - Also from Purdue's extension; provides additional useful information specific to shrubs and ornamental trees.

Thanks for these links. We've got a pruning project, and this quote sort of touches on the situation

quote:

Basal sprouts are shoots that may arise from roots or adventitious buds around the root collar and are not useful or helpful to the tree. On larger, mature trees, sprout-generated branches can grow from old, broken limbs and become an integral part of the canopy. Also, sprouting may be necessary on storm-damaged trees to replace lost limbs. Management strategies can be adapted to accommodate these normal characteristics of older or damaged trees.

We've got this cool old willow. It was surrounded by may day trees, which we cut down (they're invasive and turned into a thicket which blocks the sledding hill (someone else cut down two big cottonwoods, maybe they were threatening the house? We would have liked them)). Now it's getting way more sun and is going bananas with sprouts.



Basically all the leaves you can see are on new shoots this year. This tree is so old and unstable it's probably going to topple before too too long. So, we're not trying to send all the energy up top. I suppose we'll pick a few of the sprouts to encourage for more growth, and prune others. Not sure how many to prune and when. Now? Late winter/early spring? I'm guessing we can cut lots, and the 10% rule of thumb is for actual branches. Maybe this situation is more like renewal pruning a shrub (in the second link), where you gradually take off the old big branches and prune the sprouts to form a new structure.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Epitope posted:

Basically all the leaves you can see are on new shoots this year. This tree is so old and unstable it's probably going to topple before too too long. So, we're not trying to send all the energy up top. I suppose we'll pick a few of the sprouts to encourage for more growth, and prune others. Not sure how many to prune and when. Now? Late winter/early spring? I'm guessing we can cut lots, and the 10% rule of thumb is for actual branches. Maybe this situation is more like renewal pruning a shrub (in the second link), where you gradually take off the old big branches and prune the sprouts to form a new structure.

Yeah, I don't think the rule applies to sprouts like that. In general on a tree that wasn't in this particular circumstance you'd remove all of them. Willows are pretty shooty in general—I often see entire new trees sprouting out of the middle of older willows that have fallen over.

It looks from the limited part of the tree visible that it's probably been reaching for a long time to get to the sun. If you want to keep it around you may be better off removing the limbs that seem unstable before they topple on their own because they could easily strip off significant portions of the rest of the tree when they go.


Also just IMO you can mostly prune things whenever as long as you aren't doing anything too crazy, a lot like how you can transplant most things whenever as long as you aren't an animal about it. With unwanted shoots I'd usually remove them as soon as possible before the tree pumps more energy into poo poo I'm just going to cut off later.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Epitope posted:

Thanks for these links. We've got a pruning project, and this quote sort of touches on the situation

We've got this cool old willow. It was surrounded by may day trees, which we cut down (they're invasive and turned into a thicket which blocks the sledding hill (someone else cut down two big cottonwoods, maybe they were threatening the house? We would have liked them)). Now it's getting way more sun and is going bananas with sprouts.



Basically all the leaves you can see are on new shoots this year. This tree is so old and unstable it's probably going to topple before too too long. So, we're not trying to send all the energy up top. I suppose we'll pick a few of the sprouts to encourage for more growth, and prune others. Not sure how many to prune and when. Now? Late winter/early spring? I'm guessing we can cut lots, and the 10% rule of thumb is for actual branches. Maybe this situation is more like renewal pruning a shrub (in the second link), where you gradually take off the old big branches and prune the sprouts to form a new structure.
It looks like some of the other trunks have some rot going on. If that goes all the way down to the root collar, you might consider just planting another willow. They aren't super long-lived trees but they grow fast as heck, and a new one will have a healthier, longer life than one which is already rotten in the middle. If your goal is a nice tree in 20 years, you might be better off planting a new one than managing this one's decline. If the rot doesn't go to the root collar, you might consider just chopping it off at the ground. It will shoot up new sprouts that will grow super fast because they have a huge tree's root system and not have to worry about old (rotten) branches breaking under the weight of new growth, and you can shape it from the beginning. Most hardwoods regenerate very well from stump sprouts.

You could also do both-plant a new one somewhere else and keep working on this one.

The best time to prune is whenever you feel like it, but late winter/early spring before the tree breaks dormancy is 'best.' After the leaves drop in fall is fine too-maybe slightly more disease concern as the tree might not spend much energy healing the wound over winter. Early summer/late spring is the worst because the tree has just used a ton of energy growing new growth and doesn't get a chance to recoup that energy is you chop all that new growth off.

big dyke energy
Jul 29, 2006

Football? Yaaaay
Decided since my balcony gets like no direct sunlight I will be going all in on ferns and violets, so here's my newest from the farmer's market:



Crested Hart's Tongue (that little fiddlehead's already unfurled, too!)


vvv It is outside though

big dyke energy fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jul 6, 2021

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

big dyke energy posted:

Decided since my balcony gets like no direct sunlight I will be going all in on ferns and violets, so here's my newest from the farmer's market:



Crested Hart's Tongue (that little fiddlehead's already unfurled, too!)

It’ll be so much happier if you put it outside tho

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

I got a Dioscorea elephantipes and a Pelargonium cotyledonis online earlier this year when it was still cold here and even with a heat pack they were both going into dormancy by the time they got here so I've had a potato and a slightly green stick in pots on my windowsill for about five months.

I noticed the Pelargonium had started budding a few days ago and when I went to check on it earlier today the Dioscorea has pushed out a vine. :toot:.


Nosre
Apr 16, 2002


Can I get some rose advice? I planted a couple 3 years ago, and this one has been doing the best:



Today I took a closer look and we have some problems, however:


That one small cane would be no problem to take off, but unfortunately there's a black spot quite far down on the main cane that's like 90% of the bush volume:



Zoomed out on the same angle, you can see there's a new cane coming up behind, but if I take out the big one, that new cane will be basically the only thing the bush has left.



Thoughts? Should I take the whole big one out?

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Nosre posted:

Thoughts? Should I take the whole big one out?

If that's actually black spot you probably need to get rid of it and start applying an anti-fungal cause that poo poo spreads, but I don't know roses well enough to be sure if it is or not.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Nosre
Apr 16, 2002


My understanding is black spot affects more younger canes and leaves, so maybe this is rose canker? Doesn't change anything though because the treatment for canker is taking out the stem too

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply