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H110Hawk posted:
Move the mounts like ~3 inches in and you should hit structure! That'll definitely let your child climb the curtain instead!
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Jul 4, 2021 03:32
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Does anyone have remote control curtains? Are they worth the money? I need to fit a 3.6 m curtain that pulls from the left and motorised remote control would be cool, but they would be the most expensive thing in the room...
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Jul 4, 2021 10:03
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CancerCakes posted:Does anyone have remote control curtains? Are they worth the money? I need to fit a 3.6 m curtain that pulls from the left and motorised remote control would be cool, but they would be the most expensive thing in the room... I had them in my last apartment, which had an ocean view with a big wall of glass doors, they were really handy in that situation. My kids did yank them loose once and I had to fix the brackets, but that probably would have been the case whether or not they were motorized.
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Jul 4, 2021 11:09
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devicenull posted:Move the mounts like ~3 inches in and you should hit structure! That'll definitely let your child climb the curtain instead! You aren't my dad! You can't tell me what to do! (I intentionally put them out a bit so that the blackout actually blacks out the light from the window. If I put them into the header on the window you get a ton of light leakage. Unless there is some trick I'm missing?) IOwnCalculus posted:I feel for that kid. Curtain rod just fell on him, same way the towel rod I totally wasn't trying to use as a chin-up bar fell on me at his age. When will this terror end? Children should be allowed to be doing other things within range of hanging bars without fear that they will spontaneously leap from the wall and attack!
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Jul 4, 2021 15:20
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Today I discovered just how bad a job the previous owners did installing the trim around the interior doors while cutting them to install new LPV floors. The vibrations of my reciprocating saw were enough to shimmy loose the apparent picture hook nails holding it in place, resulting in several trim pieces falling on my head. Would it have killed them to drive the 5 minutes to the Ace Hardware and pickup proper nails?? Guess I'll be dealing with that sooner rather than later now.
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Jul 4, 2021 23:05
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Looking for some advice on dealing with efflorescence. I recently started a project to renovate a section of our basement, I removed the wooden paneling that was installed and 1972 to expose the concrete block foundation walls and discovered a moderate amount of efflorescence. I plan to paint the block with Drylock or something similar, so I am cleaning the walls. I went it with a steel brush to remove loose deposits (worked well) then I scrubbed it why a nylon stiff bristle brush and a water/vinegar solution. It is much better, but its not clean. My real problem I think is that this is indoors. If it was outside I would get a cleaner on it, let it sit, scrub then blast it with a hose and wash everything away, but it is indoors and I don't really want to open up a hose or pressure washer inside the house. So im scrubbing this, but I cant really get it clean. Anyone got suggestions on how I should go about it? Yolo with a hose and a wet vac? A particular method or cleaner you suggest?
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Jul 5, 2021 00:53
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Bingo Bango posted:Today I discovered just how bad a job the previous owners did installing the trim around the interior doors while cutting them to install new LPV floors. The vibrations of my reciprocating saw were enough to shimmy loose the apparent picture hook nails holding it in place, resulting in several trim pieces falling on my head. Would it have killed them to drive the 5 minutes to the Ace Hardware and pickup proper nails?? That sucks, but on the scale of PO shitiness at least thats pretty low. Bright side of everything I guess.
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Jul 5, 2021 03:15
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So my parents’ neighbor has a Kubota and he offered to dig up the yard for us to lay drainage tile and waterproof from the outside, then install a sump inside. My father has a lot of construction experience and did this while building the addition to my childhood home. I just wanted the threads thoughts on if this is a better way to waterproof than the 16k job the waterproofers suggested, which was jackhammering and laying drainage on the inside of the foundation. I know it will be much cheaper since we would just have to pay for the tile, rock, and various other supplies, but would it be more effective? If we do this all my landscaping projects will be on hold until next year though 
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Jul 5, 2021 03:36
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Ball Tazeman posted:So my parents’ neighbor has a Kubota and he offered to dig up the yard for us to lay drainage tile and waterproof from the outside, then install a sump inside. My father has a lot of construction experience and did this while building the addition to my childhood home. I just wanted the threads thoughts on if this is a better way to waterproof than the 16k job the waterproofers suggested, which was jackhammering and laying drainage on the inside of the foundation. I know it will be much cheaper since we would just have to pay for the tile, rock, and various other supplies, but would it be more effective? If you have access to dig and get the water away on the outside for the cost of beer and materials it's probably at least worth trying. I have 0 construction experience.
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Jul 5, 2021 03:38
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Any major pros/cons to gas dryers? Our new house is set up for both, but our expensive memorial day washer dryer set we bought two years ago is electric; i already know utility cost is cheaper for gas, but i'm trying to see if there's a big selling point or downside that would make it worth changing out out relatively new dryer to gas.
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Jul 5, 2021 04:29
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PageMaster posted:Any major pros/cons to gas dryers? Our new house is set up for both, but our expensive memorial day washer dryer set we bought two years ago is electric; i already know utility cost is cheaper for gas, but i'm trying to see if there's a big selling point or downside that would make it worth changing out out relatively new dryer to gas. Save the carbon emissions for something more fun than upgrading a perfectly functional appliance.
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Jul 5, 2021 04:51
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PageMaster posted:Any major pros/cons to gas dryers? Our new house is set up for both, but our expensive memorial day washer dryer set we bought two years ago is electric; i already know utility cost is cheaper for gas, but i'm trying to see if there's a big selling point or downside that would make it worth changing out out relatively new dryer to gas. Not really, gas dryers are popular in places where electric is prohibitively expensive and gas is relatively cheap (like California)
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Jul 5, 2021 05:00
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Ball Tazeman posted:So my parents’ neighbor has a Kubota and he offered to dig up the yard for us to lay drainage tile and waterproof from the outside, then install a sump inside. My father has a lot of construction experience and did this while building the addition to my childhood home. I just wanted the threads thoughts on if this is a better way to waterproof than the 16k job the waterproofers suggested, which was jackhammering and laying drainage on the inside of the foundation. I know it will be much cheaper since we would just have to pay for the tile, rock, and various other supplies, but would it be more effective? AFAIK a properly designed french drain outside the foundation is fine. I have an interior one but only because the basement is below grade, so exterior wasn't a possibility.
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Jul 5, 2021 05:53
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H110Hawk posted:When will this terror end? Children should be allowed to be doing other things within range of hanging bars without fear that they will spontaneously leap from the wall and attack! I went to my mom's house today and discovered she has all the wallpaper down in that bathroom as she slowly renovates the house. Right next to the drywall anchors that were used to hold the current towel bar on, two large patched sections of drywall. Haunting me.
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Jul 5, 2021 06:45
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Ball Tazeman posted:So my parents’ neighbor has a Kubota and he offered to dig up the yard for us to lay drainage tile and waterproof from the outside, then install a sump inside. My father has a lot of construction experience and did this while building the addition to my childhood home. I just wanted the threads thoughts on if this is a better way to waterproof than the 16k job the waterproofers suggested, which was jackhammering and laying drainage on the inside of the foundation. I know it will be much cheaper since we would just have to pay for the tile, rock, and various other supplies, but would it be more effective? Gutters, proper slope away from the house, and tiles next to the foundation footers are the best way to keep the basement dry. The reason the waterproofing company didn’t suggest it is because that usually costs more and disturbs the yard a lot. If the flooding just started it may be something related to where the gutters drain. Field tile doesn’t last forever.
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Jul 5, 2021 13:07
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All that stuff outside stops the water coming in, French drains inside get rid of it after it gets in, you choose.
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Jul 5, 2021 13:11
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H110Hawk posted:
The one on the right may be in one, the one on the left is confusingly a few inches further away from the window.
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Jul 5, 2021 14:15
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I just noticed that one of the glass storm window panels in an upstairs room is missing. I know the size but lol I can’t find anything about just replacing a single panel. Don’t know the brand or anything. Do I just have to get the entire storm window replaced?
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Jul 7, 2021 00:31
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Is this quote at all reasonable? I have no idea and I'm not going to DIY it because I am an idiot
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Jul 7, 2021 01:14
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How many square of singles are getting replaced? Seems reasonable unless its just a couple shingles.
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Jul 7, 2021 01:20
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rdb posted:How many square of singles are getting replaced? Seems reasonable unless its just a couple shingles. if I had to guess it's about 4'x4' or slightly more
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Jul 7, 2021 01:21
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Seems reasonable to me, materials included?
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Jul 7, 2021 01:54
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skipdogg posted:Seems reasonable to me, materials included? Yes. Thanks!
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Jul 7, 2021 02:03
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Whats your location? Its likely reasonable, slightly high for my area but ok if you live somewhere with building codes and inspectors. Materials for that project are probably a few hundred, most of his cost is probably labor and hauling junk. I would go for it. And to clarify: roof materials are estimated in “square”. A square is 100 square feet. Edit: it also contains some markup because hes not doing the whole roof. They really like to do the whole roof. The repair guy is cheaper overall but per square is much higher than just doing the whole thing. rdb fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jul 7, 2021 |
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Jul 7, 2021 02:15
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I'm cleaning out my garage for the first time in decades(?) so I can repair it. I know I need to de-stucco these walls, dry wall repair, do something about the floor (which doesn't have a drain), but this seems like a priority:  Should I get a plumber to remove the pipes and later decide if I want to put them back? Or get an electrician to remove that outlet in a clean and safe way?
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Jul 7, 2021 03:08
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Get a hose bib-to-outlet adapter and connect them to make a hybrid system.
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Jul 7, 2021 03:15
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Serenade posted:I'm cleaning out my garage for the first time in decades(?) so I can repair it. I know I need to de-stucco these walls, dry wall repair, do something about the floor (which doesn't have a drain), but this seems like a priority: Replace the outlet with a tr/wet gfci unless there is one upstream. gently caress it.
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Jul 7, 2021 03:30
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mutata posted:Get a hose bib-to-outlet adapter and connect them to make a hybrid system. 
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Jul 7, 2021 04:34
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mutata posted:Get a hose bib-to-outlet adapter and connect them to make a hybrid system. This must be that hydro-electric I've heard so much about
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Jul 7, 2021 12:07
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Serenade posted:This must be that hydro-electric I've heard so much about 
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Jul 7, 2021 13:09
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Do you use the electrical to backflush the water lines or is it the other way around?
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Jul 7, 2021 13:11
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Roof chat: time for a new roof! I’m getting quotes for the usual architectural shingles, but I’m my area I’ve been seeing a lot more metal roofs, including the corrugated panel-type (not just standing seam). Being in PA I got a quote from an Amish-run building company that came highly recommended with excellent reviews and their quote for the corrugated metal (this stuff: https://www.abmartin.net/metal-roofing-panels/abm) was only $3k higher than the asphalt shingles. My main concern is the amount of exposed fasteners involved in this type of roof. They apparently now use some special screw with a little cover over the gasket to keep it better secured. He said they put down wood lathe on the existing shingles and install directly to that, so no tear off. I’m not really sure what to think about it, another company I spoke to only did standing seam and said that they wouldn’t install a roof with that many fasteners over a living space. Anyone dealt with this before?
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Jul 8, 2021 00:07
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Roof chat: time for a new roof! I put one like your talking about on a garage. Corrugated with exposed fasteners over a layer of shingles. Works fine for a garage. For the house I would do standing seam since the fasteners are hidden in the raised seam. For the roof I did the cost increase was $4k. $21k for the house and garage in corrugated “ag” metal, $25k for doing the garage with ag panels and the house in standing seam with textured paint. I gave the invoice to the new owners so I couldn’t tell you how many sq it was - although it had a ton of peaks and valleys and trim. I have the same reservations you do about the fasteners. They have little rubber gaskets and will eventually rust. New house has standing seam in textured slate for that reason. Overall I like metal better. The roof I had torn off was 100 year old terne standing seam. It was covered in hail dents, corroded in places, the edges had been nailed back many times, ugly as hell but still serviceable in spots. Insurance company refused to cover it and I couldn’t find someone to just fix the bad spots so off it went.
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Jul 8, 2021 00:27
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Serenade posted:I'm cleaning out my garage for the first time in decades(?) so I can repair it. I know I need to de-stucco these walls, dry wall repair, do something about the floor (which doesn't have a drain), but this seems like a priority: I love how cold and hot are backwards. An in use cover is a pretty reasonable way to prevent accidentally dripping water into that. It definitely should be protected by a GFCI, but based on that plumbing install I'm going to guess it isn't. devicenull fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jul 8, 2021 |
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Jul 8, 2021 00:30
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Roof chat: time for a new roof! I don't recommend screw down metal roofing for any structure with finished space below. It's designed for barns and accessory use buildings where a fastener working loose can't do much damage because the framing can dry out easily. I especially don't recommend it for applications where you can't inspect the roof framing from below to help discover leaks as they develop. Like, if you have an attic and can conduct regular inspections - at least there is a way to discover a leak before it does tons of damage. If you have a finished ceiling you will never see a leak before it becomes a real issue. Unless you are severely cost constrained, pay for the tear off. It gives you a chance to see if there is any existing damage to your roof sheathing before installing new roofing, and in general I'm a fan of keeping a roof's dead load as minimal as possible.
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Jul 8, 2021 01:46
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Thanks. The quote I got for standing seam is literally 3x the price of asphalt so I will likely go with asphalt. And absolutely doing a tearoff with that, I know there are some soft spots in the decking that need addressed. So that aside, anything fancy in the world of shingles I should know about? Or are all of the major brands pretty much the same quality wise? I’ve gotten guys using Certainteed, GAF, and Owens Corning.
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Jul 8, 2021 04:49
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We have a standing seam metal roof it's cute and easy.
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Jul 8, 2021 11:15
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So our new-to-us house has a leased propane tank. I called the company to transfer service about a week before closing, and said I wanted will call delivery (not them automatically scheduling) and to not make the first delivery prior to closing, they confirmed they would not. On final walkthrough I noticed the tank was full, and then I got a bill for the delivery, which was done 6 days before closing on the house. Is this worth making a stink about? I haven't signed the customer agreement yet. So I'm not sure if they currently have a leg to stand on to charge me for removing the (now full) tank if it comes down to me switching companies. Their contract says they'll charge a fee if they have to remove a tank with >5% propane, but I haven't signed one. Any chance they discount the 100 gal they topped off before I actually owned the house? Or is it going to just be a hassle that's best avoided by paying the bill and moving on with my life.
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Jul 8, 2021 11:25
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I mean, you were going to buy the gas from them anyway, right? As long as PO doesn't literally steal it or something, I don't see what the issue is. You're only out a few days of PO using the gas, but that's about it. But that said, I've only ever had city gas, so I don't know the ins and outs of tank contracts.
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Jul 8, 2021 12:04
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DaveSauce posted:I mean, you were going to buy the gas from them anyway, right? Yeah that's kind of how I feel about it too. The only real loss is that they offer a discounted rate on your first fill as a new customer and they filled it much sooner than I would have, meaning I only got ~100 gallons discounted rather than the 200+ I would have if i had waited.
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Jul 8, 2021 12:20
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