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By that time playing dark games on a CRT absolutely sucked. Content creation was near-universally being done on and for LCDs, and anything dark was so dark that it had absolutely no contrast on a CRT. Doom 3 may have been an exception because it stylistically tends to be mostly invisibly dark, with the bright parts being quite bright.
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Jul 5, 2021 04:45
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K8.0 posted:By that time playing dark games on a CRT absolutely sucked. Content creation was near-universally being done on and for LCDs, and anything dark was so dark that it had absolutely no contrast on a CRT. Doom 3 may have been an exception because it stylistically tends to be mostly invisibly dark, with the bright parts being quite bright. I would've been playing it on a CRT and I remember it being fine, or at least I don't remember having any complaints about the contrast.
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Jul 5, 2021 07:13
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LCDs were just starting to take off at that point, emphasis on the "starting." Most gamers still had CRTs.
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Jul 5, 2021 08:42
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CaptainSarcastic posted:I would've been playing it on a CRT and I remember it being fine, or at least I don't remember having any complaints about the contrast. yeah, same Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:LCDs were just starting to take off at that point, emphasis on the "starting." Most gamers still had CRTs. my dad was an early lcd adopter and those cheap 15" 1280x1024 screens were, uh, real bad for games lmfao. otoh he still has that screen while my olde hand-me-down crt stopped turning on around 2009 
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Jul 5, 2021 08:52
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ThePeavstenator posted:Drivers are an OS-level thing, meaning they aren’t run until Windows is loaded. Firmware is saved to the hardware of the GPU, and is what’s used until the OS takes over and loads drivers. Updating firmware is different than updating drivers, and needs to be done much less frequently. If you have an NVIDIA card try this: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/drivers/nv-uefi-update-x64/ Thanks, this did the trick, despite my monitor only being DP 1.2a.
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Jul 5, 2021 14:09
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I have one of those old Korean special 1440p monitors. It only works with Dual Link DVI-D. I bought a DVI-D to HDMI cable but the cable is only single link. I can't seem to find a Dual Link DVI-D to HDMI cable. Any chance one of you can point me to something that will work? Monoprice has Dual Link DVI-D to DisplayPort. Can I go DVI-D to DisplayPort to HDMI?
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Jul 5, 2021 15:42
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I have one of those old Korean special 1440p monitors. It only works with Dual Link DVI-D. I bought a DVI-D to HDMI cable but the cable is only single link. I can't seem to find a Dual Link DVI-D to HDMI cable. Any chance one of you can point me to something that will work? Monoprice has Dual Link DVI-D to DisplayPort. Can I go DVI-D to DisplayPort to HDMI? No such cable exists (it is probably not physically possible). You need an active adapter that specifically supports the resolution/refresh combination the monitor requires.
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Jul 5, 2021 16:26
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Too bad. Thanks!
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Jul 5, 2021 16:28
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My nixeus edg 27 power brick died and now I'm back to just one monitor. Feels like poo poo, hope it gets here before friday. only lasted a bit over a year.
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Jul 5, 2021 18:44
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Is this where to ask about KVM switches? I need something with four USB outputs, two HDMI outputs, and two PC inputs, don't really care about input format but I supposed HDMI, DP or USB 3.0 would be best. Looking at various two monitor KVM switches, it seems like you need to pull two HDMI outputs from each PC - from one, this will not be a problem, but from my laptop I only have one HDMI output. I presume I will have to use a dock with the laptop to get it to output to two HDMI cables. Am I missing something or is there something that can help me solve my problem better?
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Jul 5, 2021 19:19
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What's the thread favorite 2k ultrawide for under 500. For work mostly but I do play FPSs
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Jul 5, 2021 19:59
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Ugh, reddit is invading our forums. What is 2k?
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Jul 5, 2021 21:24
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What the guy at microcenter used so I figured it is the norm. 1440
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Jul 5, 2021 21:29
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Comatoast posted:Ugh, reddit is invading our forums. What is 2k? That's not Reddit, that's just part of the confusing terminology used around displays. Usually 2k means 1440p. But because the industry is allergic to making things clear, you end up with conventions like 1080p being called FHD, 1440p being called 2k or QHD or WQHD for widescreens, and 4k usually being referred to just as 4k but also as UHD.
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Jul 5, 2021 21:34
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Submarine Sandpaper posted:What's the thread favorite 2k ultrawide for under 500. For work mostly but I do play FPSs LG 27GL83A edit: oh, ultrawide? no idea. if you game, then probably IPS, so here's a list XV340CK does get down to $410+tax at best buy, that looks fine. Don't know anything about the monitor itself though. Also it is flat, not curved, and curved is generally considered a plus in the ultrawide market. I know a lot of people are reflexively opposed to it as an idea, but when you have a monitor that's getting that wide it's nice to bring the edges "closer to you" so it looks visually flat. another option would be that Costco puts the Acer X34P on sale at $599 sometimes (and sometimes you don't need to be a member, some of their deals are open to the public - like right now you could buy one as a rando. Otherwise if the deal comes up and it's members-only a membership is $60, which isn't the end of the world). I had an X34P and know it works well but it's native gsync so you wouldn't get VRR if you had AMD, and the connection options are more limited (1x DP1.2, 2x HDMI 1.4b) than some of the other monitors. if you drop the IPS requirement then you can get the cost down a bit further but the ghosting on VA monitors can be very distracting even in desktop applications (you will see words "dragging" behind every time you scroll) and will look really ugly in gaming. But ymmv, I think VA or the XV340CK is the only way you're going to get a 1440p ultrawide under $500. Waiting for a deal on the X34P and stretching your budget up to $600 would be my recommendation. VA suffers from really poor black-to-grey response times - so basically any pixel that becomes dark, has a hard time changing to a lighter color. While the response times are around 10-15 ms on average (the 1ms poo poo is fake as hell) the black pixels are generally around 35-50ms response time. So you end up with a "darkening" effect and a loss of detail in motion because it's basically a one-way ratchet, once a pixel is in a darker area it takes a long time to lighten back up. here's another example. As I said before another effect of this is that at the desktop, any time you scroll you will get words very visibly "dragging" and leaving a black ghost as they move, in things like a web browser and so on. Because that text is black, and scrolling involves the black text becoming white as it moves, and that's really slow on VA, hence you get ghosting, "ghosts" of the text following behind. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 00:27
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TY. May just get the LG for now instead of waiting for a sale. /e - LG 27GP83B is closer to me for a pickup. Is it at all worth the extra $ premium? I only see vague "panel improvements" which seems to be brightness, which is honestly appealing. Submarine Sandpaper fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 13:28
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Submarine Sandpaper posted:TY. May just get the LG for now instead of waiting for a sale. 27GP83B-B over the 27GL83A-B? Yes, it's the first proper 'upgrade' on the latter which has been a thread favourite for a while, with a faster refresh rate, response time, and better HDR.
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Jul 6, 2021 15:16
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Is this where to ask about KVM switches? I need something with four USB outputs, two HDMI outputs, and two PC inputs, don't really care about input format but I supposed HDMI, DP or USB 3.0 would be best. Looking at various two monitor KVM switches, it seems like you need to pull two HDMI outputs from each PC - from one, this will not be a problem, but from my laptop I only have one HDMI output. I presume I will have to use a dock with the laptop to get it to output to two HDMI cables. Am I missing something or is there something that can help me solve my problem better? If both PCs support Thunderbolt 3 I'd just get a dock which has all the ports you need. I've been using a Caldigit TS3 to switch between my Windows desktop (there are a couple of PCI-E Thunderbolt cards you can get) and a MacBook Pro with almost no issues except that when I upgraded to a 4K monitor the Mac stopped being able to use both displays with a single connection, which might be related to macOS' inability to send multiple DisplayPort streams over a single connection, maybe something with bandwidth, dunno. even then it's not a big deal to move the dock connection and second monitor USB-C connection at the same time.
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Jul 6, 2021 15:57
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Submarine Sandpaper posted:TY. May just get the LG for now instead of waiting for a sale. Every monitor is blindingly bright, you do not need more brightness. It is a better monitor, but I wouldn't pay much more for it. Also, neither of those monitors are ultrawides. They're standard 16:9 AR. Not a fan of ultrawides and IMO you virtually always want to prioritize having two monitors over almost anything else, but get what you want.
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Jul 6, 2021 16:06
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Zedsdeadbaby posted:Either that or thread darling 27GL83A or 27GN850 (both the same with the former having a USB hub) Ended up buying the 27GL83A and it owns, thanks
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Jul 6, 2021 17:35
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Welcome to the 27GL gang 
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Jul 6, 2021 17:45
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Gonna post this again because there seem to be a lot of people getting into VRR for the first time. If you have a VRR monitor (Gsync/Freesync) you need to cap your framerate below your refresh rate. VRR only works when frames are coming in more slowly than the monitor can handle. It can only slow your monitor down, it can't speed it up faster than it can go. If you do not cap your framerate and frames come in faster than your monitor can handle, VRR is off and you will get the standard behavior of either tearing with vsync off or high latency with vsync on. The most basic thing to do is to cap your framerate about 3-4 FPS below your monitor's maximum refresh rate with the Nvidia control panel limiter or Radeon Chill. If you want to take it a step further and optimize input latency for specific games, you can create a driver profile that disables the limiter for that game and then use the in-game limiter.
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Jul 6, 2021 17:46
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Speaking of brightness, can you always override "locked" brightness settings through Windows software (third-party stuff), or is it locked down all the way through firmware? Some good sRGB modes out there with locked settings.
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Jul 6, 2021 17:49
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I have a 1440p 144hz TN Gsync monitor and I think it's time to upgrade, but it still seems like all I can really go for is something with slightly higher refresh rate and a new panel. Is that really worth it?
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Jul 6, 2021 18:48
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What's the best pick for a large format 43" 144hz display. Gonna use it for pc use, PS5 and Series X I've got my eye on the Sony X85J 43" and the Gigabyte FV43U. The 48 LG oled would be nice but it's pretty comical as a full blown computer monitor. I also already have a 55" LG C9 as my living room TV.
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Jul 6, 2021 18:52
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K8.0 posted:Every monitor is blindingly bright, you do not need more brightness. It is a better monitor, but I wouldn't pay much more for it. Good to know about brightness. My current is an alienware TN pannel from like 3 or 4 years back and I cannot play games in the fall/spring approaching dusk. I think it'll be another gen before I do dip into ultrawide. I really like the concept for flight sims and such but I did get the LG. Mostly playing FPS games right now anyway.
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Jul 6, 2021 19:15
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Odd Mutant posted:I have a 1440p 144hz TN Gsync monitor and I think it's time to upgrade, but it still seems like all I can really go for is something with slightly higher refresh rate and a new panel. Is that really worth it? Honestly, i dont think i would bother upgrading from that right now. I like IPS a lot more than TN, personally, but I don't think the difference is worth $300+. Once 4k/144hz IPS or even OLED (maybe... maybe) is common place and rationally priced, that might be worth the upgrade.
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Jul 6, 2021 19:21
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Green Gloves posted:What's the best pick for a large format 43" 144hz display. Gonna use it for pc use, PS5 and Series X Wait and see if LG makes a good product with the 42" OLED coming later this year?
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Jul 7, 2021 03:14
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I'm not sure where to ask this, but it's kind of monitor-related, so I'll start here. Does anyone know why Windows would start artifacting on my display but Linux doesn't? In the last week I have started noticing this effect in Windows where the left side of the monitor looks like it has a dirty smudge that curves around the corners, especially the top left. It's like some weird rounded window border but it shows up on the desktop and in full-screen applications. It happens on my main desktop running Windows 10 Pro connected via DisplayPort, and on my work laptop running Windows 10 Pro connected via HDMI. My desktop has an Nvidia 2070 Super, my laptop is some flavor of Intel integrated graphics. Like I said, this is a recent development, and appears to be specific to Windows - my desktop booted to Linux using the same DisplayPort connector gets no artifacting.
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Jul 7, 2021 06:06
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What’s your personal policy on dead pixels? My 27GL83A got a dead pixel a couple inches off center, and it quickly became very annoying. I’ve only had it for just barely a week. I asked Amazon for a replacement, but I, quietly afraid it will be even worse. As the Dell TN Gsync panel I bought three years ago also has issues and I bought this to try to have a trouble-free monitor, I’m starting to think I should sell the replacement on eBay (I don’t want to get banned from Amazon for too many refund requests) and wash my hands of this whole goddamn thing.
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Jul 7, 2021 12:18
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Just return it and get another. Amazon is the best place to buy monitors because they let you return anything.
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Jul 7, 2021 12:37
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Craptacular! posted:What’s your personal policy on dead pixels? My 27GL83A got a dead pixel a couple inches off center, and it quickly became very annoying. I’ve only had it for just barely a week. I've literally never had a dead pixel before so I've always assumed they're quite rare. Amazon always sends a warning email when they're considering banning an account for excessive returns, so you should have some level of warning. I don't think two refunds would ever trip that, especially on the same order. Take a picture and catalog every defect before sending the product back so you can show Amazon support if they ask. If you haven't even gotten your first replacement yet, then all this worrying seems a bit premature. Whatever you do, please do not sell the monitor on ebay when you can at the very least get a full refund. No ban will come before a warning, so as long as you haven't been warned, you'll be safe. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Jul 7, 2021 |
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Jul 7, 2021 12:42
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Not sure about LG but my old PG279Q had a stuck pixel and really bad backlight bleed, contacted Asus and they shipped me a new one and just told me to put mine in the box and send it back. New one had no stuck pixel and a crazy less amount of bleed.
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Jul 7, 2021 14:14
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CaptainSarcastic posted:I'm not sure where to ask this, but it's kind of monitor-related, so I'll start here. Can you get a picture of the monitor with your phone or whatever that demonstrates this artifact? Maybe display the same image full screen in both Windows and Linux so we can see the difference if it's not obvious? edit: Also to eliminate any potential software causes, does it show up in screenshots?
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Jul 7, 2021 14:35
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K8.0 posted:Wait and see if LG makes a good product with the 42" OLED coming later this year? I ended up getting the 43" Sony x85J. Grabbed it for an open box special at Best Buy. Still overpriced as is but HDMI 2.1 43" TV or monitors are hard to come by at this price point. Works well for the Series X 4K/120hz works perfect but no VRR support from Sony yet. Definitely need a wall mount so I can siy further from the monitor. PC use is an eyesore.
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Jul 7, 2021 15:56
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Wanted to share this for anyone using an LG TV as a monitor: https://github.com/JPersson77/LGTVCompanion It's a service that will wake or sleep your TV with your PC using IP commands. I was about to do make one to do the same thing using the RS232 port, but this works better.
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Jul 7, 2021 18:56
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chmods please posted:If both PCs support Thunderbolt 3 I'd just get a dock which has all the ports you need. I've been using a Caldigit TS3 to switch between my Windows desktop (there are a couple of PCI-E Thunderbolt cards you can get) and a MacBook Pro with almost no issues except that when I upgraded to a 4K monitor the Mac stopped being able to use both displays with a single connection, which might be related to macOS' inability to send multiple DisplayPort streams over a single connection, maybe something with bandwidth, dunno. even then it's not a big deal to move the dock connection and second monitor USB-C connection at the same time. Thanks for the response! Unfortunately, no TB3 on the desktop so that's out.
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Jul 7, 2021 20:30
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Ragnar Gunvald posted:Ah ha. I was looking at the 38GL950G-B but wasn't sure if it was good. Guess LG is pretty well respected around here? I got it and I love it. Im very annoyed at Amazon though. I asked to return it after I realised that Amazon was selling it for £2500 and I can get it from OCUK for £1200. Amazon reduced the price by £500 the exact moment I asked to return it too. It's an amazing monitor but I'm certainly not paying double for it from Amazon. Refund and rebuy!
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Jul 7, 2021 21:47
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wolrah posted:Can you get a picture of the monitor with your phone or whatever that demonstrates this artifact? Maybe display the same image full screen in both Windows and Linux so we can see the difference if it's not obvious? Okay, this is weird, but it seems to have stopped doing it. It seemed like it was still there, faintly, earlier today, but now I'm not seeing it. If it recurs I'll try to take pics of it. I did take a screenshot earlier when it did seem to show up but that doesn't appear to capture it - the screenshot was pristine. And nothing ever showed up on the Linux side, so it seems like some Windows display weirdness.
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Jul 8, 2021 05:25
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K8.0 posted:Wait and see if LG makes a good product with the 42" OLED coming later this year? Has anyone used an OLED or another large screen for heavy document/email work and has it made your eyes bleed?
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Jul 8, 2021 12:03
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