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kid sinister posted:It's a compression fitting. Both the copper pipe and copper ferrule deform as you tighten the fitting. Yes, you can reuse a copper ferrule several times... usually. Like over 95%. The fix for leaky compression fittings is the one you discovered: compress it more by tightening it. Thanks! I guess I've only ever dealt with 1/2" pipes (e.g., the inflow pipe in this case), where the pipe doesn't visibly deform around the ferrule. quote:For the record, there is a tool called a ferrule puller. Yeah, I've used this one for 1/2" pipes, but they don't seem to have a 3/8" version, and all the other similar tools seem to be 1/2" only (e.g., https://www.superiortool.com/specialty-tools/faucet-tools/compression-sleeve-pullers/). Do you know of one that would work with 3/8" pipes?
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Jul 12, 2021 06:19
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I'm having vinyl flooring installed on the concrete basement floor of the house I just bought. The previous owner had ripped up the carpeting and left the padding and tack strips, which I removed yesterday. Some bits of the padding are left over, stuck to the adhesive used to adhere the padding. What is a good solvent/solution to get rid of the adhesive, and is there a specific tool that would be best to scrape up the leftover bits of padding? I want to make sure the floor is as pristine as possible to avoid any sorts of surface abnormalities when the vinyl is laid.
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Jul 12, 2021 17:19
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The Midniter posted:I'm having vinyl flooring installed on the concrete basement floor of the house I just bought. The previous owner had ripped up the carpeting and left the padding and tack strips, which I removed yesterday. Some bits of the padding are left over, stuck to the adhesive used to adhere the padding. What is a good solvent/solution to get rid of the adhesive, and is there a specific tool that would be best to scrape up the leftover bits of padding? I want to make sure the floor is as pristine as possible to avoid any sorts of surface abnormalities when the vinyl is laid. I've had luck with Goo Gone and a stiff metal scraper; had to remove adhesive from granite that had become unstuck thanks to whatever loving Gary did when he installed it (photos earlier in this thread). Apply Goo Gone, let it soak for a bit, and then it's elbow grease and general effort.
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Jul 12, 2021 17:41
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Rent a floor stripper, a floor sander, or even a floor buffer with a scrubbing pad and vacuum up the aftermath before doing all that bullshit lmao.
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Jul 12, 2021 17:44
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One of the fun things I've discovered as we get this house ready to move into is that the gas line for the range sticks out of the wall behind the range far enough to make it so the range can't move back fully and be flush with the wall behind it.  That's a roughly three inch gap between the back wall and the back of the range and is clearly a place waiting for poo poo to fall behind there (which has happened twice already). The placement of the gas line doesn't facilitate moving it further back into the wall without some serious reconstruction that I have no desire to undertake, so I'm thinking that some sort of flashing that I could attach to the screws on the back of the range that would fill the gap and sit under the bottom of the countertop behind it would be a decent way to solve the problem of things falling into that gap. Is that a reasonable plan? I'm not looking to do something janky over a real fix, but I don't know that a real fix is feasible. And if it is reasonable, how would I go about fashioning such a thing? I'm assuming a piece of aluminum or something would make sense but I have no idea how to acquire and bend such a thing. Is there a type of trade that would do something custom like that? I am at a loss. 
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Jul 12, 2021 18:09
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Call a plumber and pay them to relocate the gas line.
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Jul 12, 2021 18:13
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Quick question: What is a good sealant/filler I can use for the couple mm gap between this wood and the plastic case I'm fixing it to? Doesn't have to look pretty (hence why I just used my jig saw instead of going out and buying a coping saw) but does need to be light-tight as it's part of a mobile darkroom setup. If it dried black that would be ideal. The wood strip will be held in place with a couple of bolts through the case so it's not going to be load-bearing at least. I am located in Australia so something I can grab off the shelf at Bunnings would be ideal!
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Jul 13, 2021 00:04
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Quick question: Something like Great Stuff expanding foam filler that comes in a can and sprays out, then you let it dry and cut it flush after. I've never seen it come in black but the color it dries to is an off-yellow very similar to that wood, maybe a little more pale. There's going to be a lot of options and products and they'll all be fine so see if you can find a black option maybe. https://www.greatstuff.dupont.com/products/greatstuff-big-gap-filler.html
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Jul 13, 2021 08:18
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VelociBacon posted:Something like Great Stuff expanding foam filler that comes in a can and sprays out, then you let it dry and cut it flush after. I've never seen it come in black but the color it dries to is an off-yellow very similar to that wood, maybe a little more pale. There's going to be a lot of options and products and they'll all be fine so see if you can find a black option maybe. Ah nice, that sounds ideal! I made the mistake of buying a small wood file and now I'm trying to actually get it a bit more flush, but will definitely need filler of some sort. When it dries would it give my (regular, cheap) drill bit any grief, or should I be OK to wait to drill the holes at the end?
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Jul 13, 2021 08:28
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Ah nice, that sounds ideal! No, it dries rigid but it's not like JB weld or some kind of epoxy, it's very porous and you'll be able to drill it no problem. You should use that file to knock the rough/torn edges off the wood so when your foam dries a box cutter blade (fully extended) can easily be slid along the top of the wood to cut the foam flush with that surface.
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Jul 13, 2021 08:29
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Is there a general homebuying thread I am missing?
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Jul 13, 2021 15:03
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me your dad posted:Is there a general homebuying thread I am missing? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3131399 ?
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Jul 13, 2021 15:12
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Thanks!
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Jul 13, 2021 15:19
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Anyone got any suggestions for rat trap covers? I want to set the traps outside without worrying about my kids or dog getting into them. I have one of those bait stations, but they're $15 each. I put a snap trap in it instead of poison because I'm concerned about secondary poisoning. So far I've caught one rat, but there's more out there because they keep eating my tomatoes.
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Jul 13, 2021 15:45
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Bucket traps, my man. They are ridiculously effective for rodents. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mR0Iz9qMzl0 I've also used the ones where you just layer the water with seeds to catch chipmunks. That also works really well.
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Jul 13, 2021 15:54
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I just stumbled over these feet on Ebay. Am I right in thinking that they're probably trash wood that isn't enough to hold up a footstool (intended use)?
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Jul 13, 2021 20:51
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This *might* belong here I managed to snag some wild posters from the 60s but they’re apparently huge? 82 x 116 cm and 87 x 118 cm. Frames for that are either nonexistent or wildly expensive - what other options do I have for framing or protecting the posters? I’m down for a wee bit of DIY, within reason, though that might involve bribing teen warlock
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Jul 13, 2021 21:11
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I just stumbled over these feet on Ebay. Am I right in thinking that they're probably trash wood that isn't enough to hold up a footstool (intended use)? So long as they're something harder than pine, they should answer. The grain looks like maple or maybe oak, but it's hard to tell from the bias cut.
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Jul 14, 2021 01:54
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:
I’ve got a bucket trap with the spinny can on it. Are you saying for chipmunks I should be able to forget the can and float seed on top of water in the bucket and they’ll go for a swim?
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Jul 14, 2021 03:08
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Hed posted:I’ve got a bucket trap with the spinny can on it. Are you saying for chipmunks I should be able to forget the can and float seed on top of water in the bucket and they’ll go for a swim? That's exactly what I'm saying. Layer the top of the water with seeds so it looks like solid ground to them (doesn't look like water) and they'll jump right in and drown. I use black oil sunflower seeds. I've killed like 10 chipmunks this way. The only hard part is I've yet to figure out how to keep squirrels from getting to the seeds. They are bigger and more agile and are able to straddle the bucket and eat the seeds. Still, the success rate of the bucket was like 75% of the time I got at least one chipmunk.
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Jul 14, 2021 14:40
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Drowning animals is pretty hosed up. If you're going to kill the chipmunk, kill it, don't torture it. Chipmunks can swim, so it takes a while for them to drown. Really messed up.
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Jul 14, 2021 16:23
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Is there some special method of loosening these things? I can't for the life of me unfasten the previous owners toilet seat, it's at a very awkward angle and either I'm doing it wrong or it's very tight.
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Jul 14, 2021 20:26
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pointsofdata posted:Is there some special method of loosening these things? I can't for the life of me unfasten the previous owners toilet seat, it's at a very awkward angle and either I'm doing it wrong or it's very tight. what does the top-side look like? maybe you just didn't mention it but you typically have to hold one end while turning the other to have a toilet seat loosen instead of just spinning in place, given your pic it's probably easiest to hold the bottom metal bar piece with your hand or pliers and turn whatever is on top with the appropriate tool (probably a large phillips or a wrench/socket up top).
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Jul 14, 2021 20:34
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tangy yet delightful posted:what does the top-side look like? maybe you just didn't mention it but you typically have to hold one end while turning the other to have a toilet seat loosen instead of just spinning in place, given your pic it's probably easiest to hold the bottom metal bar piece with your hand or pliers and turn whatever is on top with the appropriate tool (probably a large phillips or a wrench/socket up top).  This is the top - the cap thing on the left I had to force fairly hard to get it that far around (after your suggestion!). I tried pulling up on the seat pretty hard and can't find any quick release button - if there's nothing else to do I might just try and use a hammer to tap the cap further around for access to the screw head, we'll just throw it out anyway. Thanks!
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Jul 14, 2021 20:43
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teen witch posted:This *might* belong here I had some DIY ideas and saw inspiration but also the American in me has to say that you're looking for a 36" x 48" frame, which are expensive enough to consider DIY for sure. hack together something like this from hardware store S4S lumber and magnets, then hang the poster between two sheets of thin plexiglass would one of the easier and cheaper things to attempt.
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Jul 14, 2021 21:12
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Tezer posted:Drowning animals is pretty hosed up. If you're going to kill the chipmunk, kill it, don't torture it. Chipmunks can swim, so it takes a while for them to drown. Really messed up. Yeah drowning traps and glue traps are both extremely hosed up. Get a bunch of quick-kill mousetraps and a jar of Jif and spam them everywhere. If you have pets and you're worried about them getting to it, buy some cheap tupperware containers and put holes in the sides for the rodents to get in to reach the trap.
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Jul 14, 2021 22:36
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I talked to my cousin who is an exterminator. He recommends snap traps, and using a 2 foot section of PVC pipe to hide the trap in if you're concerned about children or pets. For rats, that would be at least a 3" pipe to fit the trap. Additionally, its most effective to put the traps out with bait but without setting them. Rats are very nervous around new things in their environment. Leaving the trap out with food in it for a week or so will give them a chance to get used to it, and even see it as a food source. After the time has passed, set the traps and they should produce.
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Jul 14, 2021 22:59
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pointsofdata posted:
What brand or make is the seat? I imagine that there's some 3-lock-box trick to removing the seat from the hinges, then popping off that metal cover to get at the screws. The always screw/unscrew from the top. you reach underneath the bowl flange just enough to hold the nut in place.
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Jul 15, 2021 02:41
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I'm in the California Bay Area, which has been experiencing a heatwave lately (except in my area because we get coastal breezes, so instead it's just super foggy all the time). I've noticed that in the evenings, my uninterruptible power supply will often click on for a few seconds -- meaning that the fan turns on and the front panel lights up, but it doesn't start beeping like it does if there's a total loss of power. At the same time, the room lights (which are LEDs) will flicker. I have no problems during the day. Would a reasonable assumption be that high power usage in my area is causing minor voltage drops, which the UPS is compensating for? Is this something that could damage the UPS? Perhaps more concerningly, are there other potential causes for this behavior? I haven't had any circuit breakers trip, but I have had two outages that were big enough to wipe the clock on my oven.
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Jul 15, 2021 04:50
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm in the California Bay Area, which has been experiencing a heatwave lately (except in my area because we get coastal breezes, so instead it's just super foggy all the time). I've noticed that in the evenings, my uninterruptible power supply will often click on for a few seconds -- meaning that the fan turns on and the front panel lights up, but it doesn't start beeping like it does if there's a total loss of power. At the same time, the room lights (which are LEDs) will flicker. I have no problems during the day. Would a reasonable assumption be that high power usage in my area is causing minor voltage drops, which the UPS is compensating for? Is this something that could damage the UPS? Is this definitely new behavior? It sounds like self test behavior to me, but that would have been taking place the whole time.
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Jul 15, 2021 06:32
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glynnenstein posted:Is this definitely new behavior? It sounds like self test behavior to me, but that would have been taking place the whole time. The lights aren't plugged into the UPS, and I'm just about positive that the lights upstairs aren't even on the same circuit. So I'm pretty sure that this behavior is being triggered by something external to the UPS.
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Jul 15, 2021 14:50
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Given that room lights are flickering when you observe the behavior I'm going to guess a localized brownout due to high electricity demand. Not enough to trigger the loss of power alarm on the UPS, but enough to send it into compensation mode. Most good modern UPSs handle this gracefully to prevent damage to attached equipment.
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Jul 15, 2021 17:17
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My central air broke over a month ago. I've been waiting on replacing the whole thing but it's taking forever. In the meantime I'm trying to do anything I can to cool down the house. I think my soffit vents are insulated over. It's a two story house plus an uninsulated attic. Can I go digging around in this insulation to find the soffit vents? Or should I be worried about asbestos? Edit: The house was built in 1929.   
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Jul 15, 2021 18:49
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MrChrome posted:My central air broke over a month ago. I've been waiting on replacing the whole thing but it's taking forever. In the meantime I'm trying to do anything I can to cool down the house. I think my soffit vents are insulated over. It's a two story house plus an uninsulated attic. Can I go digging around in this insulation to find the soffit vents? Or should I be worried about asbestos? I'd always recommend that you put on a respirator and long shirt / pants when dealing with insulation. This does NOT look like vermiculite with asbestos (it's more like rocks looking), as far as I know only vermiculite contains asbestos that looks like fiberglass which has no asbestos hazard.
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Jul 15, 2021 19:31
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Unremovable toilet seat was solved by many gentle hammer taps on the fastening caps. Once i had one side unscrewed the quick release on the other popped out - l think the first was just stuck. Thanks thread!
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Jul 15, 2021 19:40
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my gardens do not matter to me, my lawn does not matter to me. I sense the neighbors judging me for not pulling weeds and maintaining the outside. so, should I just salt everything?
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Jul 15, 2021 21:09
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erosion posted:my gardens do not matter to me, my lawn does not matter to me. I sense the neighbors judging me for not pulling weeds and maintaining the outside. I had a lovely conversation with my neighbor shortly after i moved in, and i could see them twist their face when i said "yeah, i don't rearlly understand the american obsession with the idea of a lawn". if he says one goddamn word i'll asphalt the entire thing out of spite.
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Jul 15, 2021 21:14
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When faced with that problem we found a cheap lawn guy to run a mower over everything once a month and the neighbors can just deal with the clover that’s taking over as the grass dies off without PO’s aggressive fertilization and pesticide regime.
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Jul 15, 2021 21:15
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corgski posted:When faced with that problem we found a cheap lawn guy to run a mower over everything once a month and the neighbors can just deal with the clover that’s taking over as the grass dies off without PO’s aggressive fertilization and pesticide regime. also this. i get it mowed once a week, and i dont care what it is, it gets mowed once a week. i spray the ones in the back and pull em after they die once a month or so.
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Jul 15, 2021 21:18
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Well, poo poo. My computer just lost power, despite the UPS. It's been clicking on and off for the past couple of hours, and says its battery capacity is at 50%. I guess it can't charge if the voltage is unreliable? Either that or the solenoid that I can hear clicking on every time it activates draws a lot of power.
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Jul 15, 2021 21:53
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