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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm in the California Bay Area, which has been experiencing a heatwave lately (except in my area because we get coastal breezes, so instead it's just super foggy all the time). I've noticed that in the evenings, my uninterruptible power supply will often click on for a few seconds -- meaning that the fan turns on and the front panel lights up, but it doesn't start beeping like it does if there's a total loss of power. At the same time, the room lights (which are LEDs) will flicker. I have no problems during the day. Would a reasonable assumption be that high power usage in my area is causing minor voltage drops, which the UPS is compensating for? Is this something that could damage the UPS? I'm in the bay area and the power went off for a split second a couple of days ago without any actual interruption. I do NOT have a UPS and my computer carried on working. The TV went blank then turned back on, the lights visibly turned off for a few milliseconds, etc. I thought about asking on the internet 'does PG&E cycle the power fast on purpose so that some devices will turn off and have to be manually turned back on, and that will help get some devices to turn off and use less power?' and then I thought "that's a really paranoid and weird question to ask".
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Jul 15, 2021 22:47
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I have a small door in the garage that leads to the water heater. Is it ok to put a shelf in front of the door? I don't plan on putting too many things on the shelf so it wouldn't be a big deal to move it for maintenance. I just wasn't sure if there was a reason I shouldn't do that outside of being inconvenient.
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Jul 15, 2021 22:55
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Typically the water shutoff to the house will be somewhere near the water heater. Having to take down a shelf in the event you have to turn the water off in a rush (there is a leak somewhere in the house) is a risk I suppose.
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Jul 15, 2021 23:59
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I went ahead and just ordered a new UPS. It's a hectic time in my schedule right now, and I can't afford to have my computer be unreliable. And if it isn't the UPS's fault, well, then at least I'll have narrowed things down a bit. And my current UPS is old so it probably doesn't hurt to replace it.
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Jul 16, 2021 00:12
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Jose Cuervo posted:Typically the water shutoff to the house will be somewhere near the water heater. Having to take down a shelf in the event you have to turn the water off in a rush (there is a leak somewhere in the house) is a risk I suppose. Thankfully (depending on how you look at it) I have no water shut off in my house. I have to go outside and open up the little water meter thing in case of an emergency.
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Jul 16, 2021 00:18
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The old kitchen chairs and table the previous owner left behind are sturdy and good. And not precious; the thick oak table top has woodgrain Formica laid into it that looks original. I want to clean the old finish and re-wax. I also need to replace 13 half-inch plugs that are in the sides of the headrests. I'm not a woodpecker. (Typo there, and I am keeping it.) To cut dowels into plugs, what kind of saw do I want? Jigsaw? Coping saw? Other?
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Jul 16, 2021 01:48
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Arsenic Lupin posted:The old kitchen chairs and table the previous owner left behind are sturdy and good. And not precious; the thick oak table top has woodgrain Formica laid into it that looks original. I want to clean the old finish and re-wax. I also need to replace 13 half-inch plugs that are in the sides of the headrests. I'm not a woodpecker. (Typo there, and I am keeping it.) To cut dowels into plugs, what kind of saw do I want? Jigsaw? Coping saw? Other? Do you currently own any saws? Jigsaw will be annoying IMO, coping saw would work, I've used a circular saw before. I would plan to sand the plugs smooth after insertion too.
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Jul 16, 2021 02:04
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Plugs are typically cut slightly oversize and then sanded flush. I usually cut them with a hand saw because they tend to be short and it doesn't take long to make each cut. One easy way to do it is to clamp a handsaw upside-down in a vise and then run the dowel against the saw instead of the other way around. I definitely wouldn't use a jigsaw for this. If you do want to use a power tool, I'd recommend a bandsaw or a miter saw.
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Jul 16, 2021 02:05
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tangy yet delightful posted:Do you currently own any saws? Jigsaw will be annoying IMO, coping saw would work, I've used a circular saw before. I would plan to sand the plugs smooth after insertion too. I own no saws; I'm starting from scratch. And I know so little I thought a jigsaw was hand-operated, so. I was planning on using a handsaw, but I didn't know which type I wanted. The original plugs are actually slightly rounded, giving a button effect. I don't know what sort of search term to use to find those; what are they called? I'm in a very rural area, and the local hardware store may or may not have them.
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Jul 16, 2021 02:18
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Is this the best place to ask about why two new fridges won't cool below about 60 while the freezer works great or is there a better, more specialized topic for it.
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Jul 16, 2021 05:38
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I went ahead and just ordered a new UPS. It's a hectic time in my schedule right now, and I can't afford to have my computer be unreliable. And if it isn't the UPS's fault, well, then at least I'll have narrowed things down a bit. And my current UPS is old so it probably doesn't hurt to replace it. Congratulations your game launch and new UPS.
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Jul 16, 2021 11:04
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Milo and POTUS posted:Is this the best place to ask about why two new fridges won't cool below about 60 while the freezer works great or is there a better, more specialized topic for it. A great deal depends on the make and model. In general, refrigerators have their cooling end (evaporator) in the freezer, and a fan (governed by a thermostat) circulates air from the freezer to the refrigerator. Some larger units have an evaporator in both the freezer & refrigerator compartments. Since they're new, I'd check thoroughly to be sure that all of the packing material, including that thin cling-film poo poo, was removed. Your fridge ducting may be blocked.
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Jul 16, 2021 15:43
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redreader posted:I'm in the bay area and the power went off for a split second a couple of days ago without any actual interruption. I do NOT have a UPS and my computer carried on working. The TV went blank then turned back on, the lights visibly turned off for a few milliseconds, etc. Typically what causes this is one section of the local electric distribution grid dropping for some reason. When that happens it takes a millisecond or two for another section to pick up the load. There are many reasons a portion of the grid can drop, including a car hitting a power pole, a squirrel short circuiting the distribution lines, trees in high wind, or simply not enough power available due to high load. If too many sections go down at once, the grid can't compensate and you get a blackout.
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Jul 16, 2021 16:04
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Wasabi the J posted:Congratulations your game launch and new UPS. Thank you! PremiumSupport posted:Typically what causes this is one section of the local electric distribution grid dropping for some reason. When that happens it takes a millisecond or two for another section to pick up the load. There are many reasons a portion of the grid can drop, including a car hitting a power pole, a squirrel short circuiting the distribution lines, trees in high wind, or simply not enough power available due to high load. If too many sections go down at once, the grid can't compensate and you get a blackout. Interesting, thanks for the background info. I could well believe that our power grid isn't in great shape around here.
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Jul 16, 2021 18:21
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I own no saws; I'm starting from scratch. And I know so little I thought a jigsaw was hand-operated, so. I was planning on using a handsaw, but I didn't know which type I wanted. The original plugs are actually slightly rounded, giving a button effect. I don't know what sort of search term to use to find those; what are they called? I'm in a very rural area, and the local hardware store may or may not have them. Well I tried some googling and can't seem to find any pre-made like this. Here is a link I found on how to make them yourself (link). The woodworking thread here might yield you a better answer about either where to buy these pre-made or better advice on how to make these yourself.
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Jul 16, 2021 18:26
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I own no saws; I'm starting from scratch. And I know so little I thought a jigsaw was hand-operated, so. I was planning on using a handsaw, but I didn't know which type I wanted. The original plugs are actually slightly rounded, giving a button effect. I don't know what sort of search term to use to find those; what are they called? I'm in a very rural area, and the local hardware store may or may not have them. Try a search for button plugs. Should be able to find the right size and colour/species somewhere online.
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Jul 16, 2021 18:54
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Hi, I have a dumb question. I'm moving into a new apartment with a used fridge (freezer on top, fridge below, white, '80s/'90s-looking Whirlpool, don't know the actual date). Yesterday when I saw the space, the fridge and freezer were appropriate fridge and freezer temps. Today, the fridge felt cool, but the inside of the freezer was extremely hot. Ambient temp is 85°F and it literally felt like I was opening an oven, easily 100°F+ inside. I could touch the back wall without getting burned, but it was definitely hot significantly above ambient. It was also making noises. I was worried about an electrical fire and unplugged it. It's hard to google, but was that normal for a defrost cycle? The whole thing is empty right now, but if there was stuff in the freezer, wouldn't it, like, cook the food? Please let me know if I should bother my super or quietly plug it back in.
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Jul 17, 2021 02:56
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i like nice words
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I would not trust a freezer that's getting that hot on the inside. It sounds like it isn't cooling and the compressor may no longer be working. The defrost cycle generally means they're a period of time it doesn't cool for. It shouldn't get 100°f in the thing.
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Jul 17, 2021 03:27
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Try a search for button plugs. Should be able to find the right size and colour/species somewhere online. That did it! Thank you.
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Jul 17, 2021 04:21
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PremiumSupport posted:Typically what causes this is one section of the local electric distribution grid dropping for some reason. When that happens it takes a millisecond or two for another section to pick up the load. There are many reasons a portion of the grid can drop, including a car hitting a power pole, a squirrel short circuiting the distribution lines, trees in high wind, or simply not enough power available due to high load. If too many sections go down at once, the grid can't compensate and you get a blackout. I've actually always wanted some kind of capacitor bank to deal with this exact situation but I have no idea if that's even a possibility or how much it would cost.
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Jul 17, 2021 06:06
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erosion posted:I've actually always wanted some kind of capacitor bank to deal with this exact situation but I have no idea if that's even a possibility or how much it would cost. Caps don't work on AC like they do on DC so most folks who need power protection get an Uninterruptible Power Supply for their PC and equipment so they can do a safe shutdown if the power goes out, or rely on it to boost voltage if there's a brown out.
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Jul 17, 2021 10:01
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I don't see a better thread for this so I'll ask here Does anyone here own a Solo Stove fire pit? Looking for some real world/goon testimonials before I splash out on one. I decided I don't want to build a permanent brick pit at this time and these things look like a viable option.
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Jul 17, 2021 18:59
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Rhyno posted:I don't see a better thread for this so I'll ask here
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Jul 17, 2021 19:26
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My dad's got one, I haven't used it but he seems happy with it. He does like spending lots of money on gimmicky junk fwiw
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Jul 17, 2021 19:42
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Well there's three sizes, 15, 20 and 27 inches. $230, $300 and $500. So it can get pricey quickly. But there's also the allure of not having to dig or build anything. Edit: there's a ton of knockoffs and similar products on the market, many with great reviews. For the price of the 15 inch Solo you can get multiple options in 24 inches. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jul 17, 2021 |
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Jul 17, 2021 20:16
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I wonder about the safety of a knockoff fire thing though
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Jul 17, 2021 21:27
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I have the medium solo stove. I’ve only used it maybe 3-4 times but so far it has successfully contained the fire every time. It does keep the smoke pretty low (not zero but far less than a campfire). Other things to note: it goes through wood pretty quickly and it mostly directs its heat straight up so if you want it to keep you warm you need to get pretty close. On the flip side, the hot air column is amazing for roasting marshmallows.
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Jul 17, 2021 22:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I went ahead and just ordered a new UPS. It's a hectic time in my schedule right now, and I can't afford to have my computer be unreliable. And if it isn't the UPS's fault, well, then at least I'll have narrowed things down a bit. And my current UPS is old so it probably doesn't hurt to replace it. Your UPS's battery could also simply be old. If your new one fixes this entirely then a new battery is likely all your old one needs. They are usually bog standard 12v lead acid batteries and have a lifespan of 3-5 years. Less with more deep cycles. Set a calendar reminder for 6 months shorter than this one lived into the future and just refresh the battery in advance. I have my Kill-a-Watt plugged in on my desktop power strip for lack of a better place to store it, I watch the voltage throughout the day. On some pretty hot days I've seen 114v with little dips into 113v.
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Jul 18, 2021 01:00
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korora posted:I have the medium solo stove. I’ve only used it maybe 3-4 times but so far it has successfully contained the fire every time. A buddy of mine bought one during the winter for covid driveway hangouts, and this is basically a description of my experiences. Works safely as intended, low smoke, burns lots of wood, have to get pretty close for heat. They do also look pretty cool.
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Jul 18, 2021 01:22
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H110Hawk posted:Your UPS's battery could also simply be old. If your new one fixes this entirely then a new battery is likely all your old one needs. They are usually bog standard 12v lead acid batteries and have a lifespan of 3-5 years. Less with more deep cycles. Set a calendar reminder for 6 months shorter than this one lived into the future and just refresh the battery in advance. Yeah, I did actually order some replacement batteries, but the old UPS uses some weird packaging system that made me worried about messing with electrical stuff I didn't adequately understand, so I bugged out of actually replacing them. Hopefully the replacement batteries can be used on the new UPS, and they can just sit on a shelf for a few years until that time comes.
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Jul 18, 2021 03:18
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My house is a corner lot with a stop sign/bus stop on one side and a fire hydrant on the other. We're looking at landscaping options to do around those items. We looked up rules about fire hydrants and in general, you can't plant anything within 3 ft of a hydrant (Grass is OK, bushes/shrubs not OK). We could not find anything regarding planting around a stop sign, other than the sign itself needs to be visible. The stop sign is just a metal pole in the ground, and currently surrounded by grass. Assuming I don't do anything stupid like knock the pole over or dig it out, are there any rules about planting around a thing like that? Completely separate subject, I have a storm door on my back porch that needs to be replaced. As near as I can tell, the frame is square (level pressed against all four sides showed level, speed square fit squarely in all 4 corners), it's the door itself that is bent out of shape. However, the wood frame where the air cylinder attaches is split to hell and full of holes (and PO installed the little metal stopper backwards/upside down, so it can't prop the door open). Any way, I could potentially use wood filler, and fill in all the cracks and whatnot, and then re-drill and mount the new cylinder, but would there be anything wrong with mounting the cylinder at the top of the door? Or would I be OK just finding enough real estate down here to mount? 
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Jul 19, 2021 15:48
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CzarChasm posted:My house is a corner lot with a stop sign/bus stop on one side and a fire hydrant on the other. We're looking at landscaping options to do around those items. We looked up rules about fire hydrants and in general, you can't plant anything within 3 ft of a hydrant (Grass is OK, bushes/shrubs not OK). We could not find anything regarding planting around a stop sign, other than the sign itself needs to be visible. The stop sign is just a metal pole in the ground, and currently surrounded by grass. Assuming I don't do anything stupid like knock the pole over or dig it out, are there any rules about planting around a thing like that? Yes but it's going to be city specific. I would take a picture of each with a broad view of your yard from the road. Print it out or put it on a tablet and go talk to someone down at the planning department for your jurisdiction. Maybe bring some pictures of what you hope to plant. I bet for the hydrant you're right - nothing that can obstruct a hose or operator. And those hoses are STIFF when pressurized, plus operator, plus adapters, so multiple feet of clearance is expected. Stop sign they will probably be pretty lax about as long as there is a cutout (think 1'x1') at the base in case they need to r&r it and well trimmed below x feet. Even then I bet as long as you don't plant something that pushes it over or creeps up no one will care too much.
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Jul 19, 2021 16:25
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My old dishwasher is being a total jerk. It's an old Bosch SPI 4462 with aqua stop. I hadn't used it for like 2 years and recently, when I started using it again, I discovered that every time it finishes its operation, and within 2-3min, it triggers the RCD (residual current device), which means that there's some kind of power leak, probably due to some kind of water leakage or steam leakage or something. This happened every time and I tested it for like 6+ times. Death, taxes and my dishwasher triggering the RCD. RCD goes down within 2-3 min of the machine finishing and if I put it back up, it goes down again after 2-3 sec. If I let some time pass, like 15-30min, it stops going down. So, I guess that after it happens, it's an ongoing thing for like half an hour, like lurking water or steam. By the way, this never happened while using the short prewash program (tried multiple times), but always when using any of the other 3 programs. So, I figured it should have something to do with lengthier use or the steam it produces to dry the plates during the end of the program. My best guess was that some steam was getting released into its ancient electronics, it's got to have some, due to some worn off rubber seal, and causing some power leakage. But it turns out there's some water leakage going on for quite some time... So, I figured I should remove it from the kitchen and move it to the basement for some old school goon experimentation that hopefully doesn't lead to electrocution. So, I did that and as I was removing the side covers, I discovered that the right side cover was stuck to the side plastic contraption you can see below. Stuck because of an excessive amount of rust that had formed. The point of origin is a hole on the weird, plastic contraption that a German mind conceived, probably after consuming excessive amounts of LSD, which should had been popular in the era this model was designed. The hole, according to my educated guess, after experimenting with it, no, not in the way you think, I deny it, is meant to work as an air vent for the "system" that is responsible for withholding bad stuff while draining the water off the machine. You can see the hole in the picture below, located at the bottom right hand side, indicated by a red arrow I masterfully added using ms paint.  To the left and slightly bottom of the indicated hole you can see a small brownish chamber, which is the "system" responsible for withholding bad stuff (I guess) while the machine is draining, as I mention above. At least this is what I got out of observing the peculiar ways in which the water flows through the built in tubes of that weird looking plastic contraption, while the machine was working. Regarding that brownish container, there is a small plugged pipe inside the machine, which is probably used for cleaning it. After resisting the initial, instinctive urge to use the tube as a straw and sample that well-aged, well brewed brown concoction, I used it to clean the chamber. Not many things came out, but it became a bit lighter brown and I became a bit happier. I guess it's still brownish because of the water being in contact with the rusted side cover for years and thus getting inside the chamber and coloring it. And here is the ungodly amount of rust that has formed on the side cover. And on its epicenter lied the aforementioned mysterious hole, which exists on the alien like plastic contraption.  Anyhow, what I figure is that for some reason water was leaking from that side hole repeatedly and over the years a rather frightening amount of rust was amassed. It surely wasn't leaking enough water to wet the floor and become noticeable, but enough to cause a terrible amount of rust to that side cover, to the chassis below it and to the machine's leg even further below. That rusted leg was particularly annoying, because it became stuck, was impossible to get retracted and I had no room to lift the machine. So I had to drag it out of its place leaving a nasty line of rust on the floor, which was hard to remove. Good news is that Bosch, in their infinite wisdom, fixed that issue by replacing the metal legs with plastic ones in their newer models... One could say they are not very confident about their machines not leaking water... So, after I had removed the side covers, inspected the machine closely and come up with nothing else, I had it run twice and it did not dare to leak or trigger the RCD. You can say it worked perfectly, in the way the Germans meant it to. Which is a bad thing, because I can't verify why water was spilling repeatedly through that loving hole and if that water leaking is responsible for the power leak triggering the RCD and interrupting my poo poo posting. The two things that were different while conducting my highly sophisticated experiment was the removal of the side covers + insulation material and that the water outlet wasn't turned to the max. I mention the latter because afterwards I read something on the net about high water outlet pressure (>120 psi) being a potential cause for dishwashers with aqua stop (like mine) overfilling and leaking from the air vent hole. I hope it's not that, because if it is, it will mean that instead of doing all the poo poo above, like removing the machine from the kitchen, semi-dismantling it and poo poo, all I had to do was turn a knob a bit... Whatever the case, I'll try again with full water power and see if it maybe leaks. In the meantime, feel free to share any ideas that don't lead to certain death or permanent injury, at least not in a blatantly obvious way. UPDATE: I am testing it again right now and it's making some alien like, never heard before sounds. Is it trying to communicate? Is it threatening me? Will it finally leak? Should I just give up and start washing the dishes in the basement, where it works perfectly? UPDATE 2: I even plugged the mysterious hole with a piece of paper, simulating the stuck on it side cover, and it finished its operation just fine, no water leak, no RCD triggering... Stupid machine. Tomorrow or the day after I'll remove all the rust I can, put the side lids back on and try one more time... If it runs fine, I'll put it back in its place and hope it doesn't misbehave again. Hopefully its visit to my dungeon has reformed it. jerk irl fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Jul 19, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 18:17
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I just swapped out our old rear end aluminum sliding patio door and put in a new vinyl sliding door. The new door is recessed a bit from the drywall whereas the old one was flush. I need some sort of step down trim molding, or maybe a kind of L shaped. Is that a common shape or am I doing to have to build something out of multiple trim pieces.
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Jul 20, 2021 02:24
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, I did actually order some replacement batteries, but the old UPS uses some weird packaging system that made me worried about messing with electrical stuff I didn't adequately understand, so I bugged out of actually replacing them. Hopefully the replacement batteries can be used on the new UPS, and they can just sit on a shelf for a few years until that time comes. You'd be better off asking in the electronics thread, but I too bet that your old UPS can be salvaged. Hawk was right. The batteries are consumable items.
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Jul 20, 2021 19:40
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kid sinister posted:You'd be better off asking in the electronics thread, but I too bet that your old UPS can be salvaged. Hawk was right. The batteries are consumable items. Once I got the new UPS installed, I was a lot less scared of breaking the old one. And yeah, you're right, the batteries would absolutely be replaceable. It was just complicated enough to scare me off, given the risks involved (of losing access to the primary tool I need to have to perform my job, right before a huge work-related event). So now I have two UPSes, effectively; one in use, and one that's opened up and ready to have batteries replaced. Guess I should find out if any friends need a UPS 
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Jul 20, 2021 21:02
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Once I got the new UPS installed, I was a lot less scared of breaking the old one. And yeah, you're right, the batteries would absolutely be replaceable. It was just complicated enough to scare me off, given the risks involved (of losing access to the primary tool I need to have to perform my job, right before a huge work-related event). I have like 10 (but I do have a lot of equipment and have been buying them since '03). One on each of the three PCs on my desk(s), one for each 3d printer (usually the old smaller units), one for the router/modem/switch, one for each of my big VM servers, one for the home entertainment stuff. We have a lot of power outages here due to trees and storms but you should consider what else you might want to keep on for a little while if there's power problems.
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Jul 20, 2021 21:45
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I am having some trouble with my central air and am looking for some advice. When I turned on my AC for the first time this season, it didn't run. I realized the furnace blower wasn't turning on properly. It worked fine in the winter when using the heat and last summer when using the AC. The furnace is a Carrier 58MVB. When I opened it up, it was throwing up a Blower Motor Fault code when I turned it on. The fan on the motor turned easily. I turned it back on while still open, and watched the fan turn one way, stop, turn the other way, and then continue this process forever. I followed the service manual for fixing this problem (after watching a generic video by Carrier which was very wrong for this furnace, apparently) and am running into some trouble figuring out what exactly I need to do. When I tested the high voltage wires, I had 119/120 volts (the manual calls for 115 volts). However, when I tested the low voltage wires, I was getting something like -1 and -5 vdc. The manual calls for 12 vdc. I didn't think to change which wires from my volt meter I used, so I'm not sure if I'd get 1 and 5 vdc and I had already closed everything up at the end of the evening. Is my next step to re-test those wires? The manual says if I don't have 12 vdc, I need to replace the variable speed furnace control. I am unsure if this means the motor controller (which at this point is disconnected, and I am not testing that) or if it's something else. Is this the circuit board that everything runs though, which I see called a Furnace Control Board? Is it something else entirely? Edit: I didn't realize there was an HVAC thread. Is this a better question to ask there? Xenix fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Jul 22, 2021 |
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Jul 22, 2021 06:36
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A little while back my bathroom faucet started getting to be quite noisy, especially when at "max power." After going through various options with Pfister (replacing cartridge, flow regulator, etc.) they finally just sent me a whole new faucet. When it was put in, there was really no high pitched noise at all! When I looked at the old faucet I found thisactionjackson posted:I have a resolution to my jet engine sounding faucet! They finally just sent me a whole new faucet, and the sound is gone. I took a look at the previous faucet, and I'm wondering if this was causing the issue - a kink at the end of the hot water line So I figured that was the cause, which someone else agreed with in the thread. But now the faucet is somewhat noisy again! Definitely not as much as before, but I have no idea how it came back at all. I'm in a condo, so I'm wondering if there could be an issue with the building plumbing? I do not have this issue with my bath or kitchen sink faucet. Or maybe this sound is normal? What do you think? https://i.imgur.com/D8aetR7.mp4
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Jul 24, 2021 17:21
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Trying to figure out how to mount this cord reel on the ceiling. It's got some heft to it. I have no idea what I'm doing. How should I be going about this? Here's the cord reel:  I want to mount it near this ceiling outlet in the garage:  I was thinking something like this? Couple of 2x4s between the joists, held on by joist brackets. White lines would be the lag bolts coming through: 
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Jul 24, 2021 23:28
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