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Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

I think this is the right thread? But I'm looking for what tools I need to repair / replace drywall and retexture it. Was wanting some legit tools that will last not some thin pice of plastic in a repair kit, but not sure exactly what I will need.

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Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

Rakeris posted:

I think this is the right thread? But I'm looking for what tools I need to repair / replace drywall and retexture it. Was wanting some legit tools that will last not some thin pice of plastic in a repair kit, but not sure exactly what I will need.

I used to do a lot of drywall repair and found that I had no problem whatsoever with cheapo plastic putty knifes. The biggest thing is having one of them fancy vibrating multi-tools oh my god it makes cutting holes for electrical boxes so SO easy. A good sanding frame, particularly one that can be fitted with an extension pole so you don't have to use a ladder to do finish on high up patches. People will disagree with me on this but buy the huge drum of mix-it-yourself joint compound. IT NEVER GOES BAD!!!!! If you love to do slapdash work a fine toothed blade for your circular saw for cutting big panels is nice but that blade WILL be ruined when you're done. KNEEPADS OH MY GOD GOOD KNEE PADS.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
The cool bracket clippy things for patching drywall in a panel are really great.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




I haven't started any of my drywall work yet but I got a 3" knife, drywall hawk, and an 18lb bag of mix it yourself compound. They only had the 90 minute at my hardware store but that's probably good cause i have done exactly 0 repair and imagine I'll be slow as gently caress. Need to buy some kind of sanding tool, think I'm gonna go with a pole attachment.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Literally A Person posted:

People will disagree with me on this but buy the huge drum of mix-it-yourself joint compound.

There's a time and place for everything. For patches? 100% hot mud.

For large patches? Maybe.

For a whole room? Nope.

For a skim coat? Get outta here.

Most of that stuff sands like concrete. I use two different weights of premix when putting up new sheetrock, the heavy stuff for the first coat and tape, then lightweight for the final 2 coats. Doing that with hot mud would be a lot of extra difficult sanding for someone like me, who doesn't get things perfect the first time.

You also can't effectively sponge sand hot mud. With premix you can wipe away and smooth minor imperfections.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


My buddy who is a drywall pro doesn't touch anything but the premix tubs. Everything else is a waste of his time.

Rufio
Feb 6, 2003

I'm smart! Not like everybody says... like dumb... I'm smart and I want respect!
Small patches? Cut a butterfly with a piece of sheetrock by cutting the back side paper and peeling off the rock from the front paper about 2" all around. No need for tape with this method, just bed with hot mud then skim with premix. Make sure when bedding to get a little mud under your paper to make it stick really well then skim it out.

Large patches? Screw some 1×4 along the outside edge to the adjacent rock and use then screw your patch to that.

Don't use the beveled edge unless you're butting to a bevel.

If no factory edge, I like to take my razor knife and shave off the corners so it's nice and smooth with no loose paper.

I prefer fiber tape for patches and paper tape for new rock w/ beveled edges.

Best thing to do is just keep your passes nice and thin. If you are doing this in your own house then time is on your side, don't be afraid to take 3 or 4 passes on it.

Don't be shy about floating out well beyond the borders of your patch. Remember to use your knife as a guide for where you've got spots to fill. When making a pass, angle it slightly when you are pulling your mud to put more pressure on the outside of the patch.

Edit: as far as texture goes...good luck. Textures can be extremely unique to the installer. Something like a simple knockdown or orange peel can be done pretty easily but it still may not blend super well.

Rufio fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Jul 25, 2021

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Rakeris posted:

I think this is the right thread? But I'm looking for what tools I need to repair / replace drywall and retexture it. Was wanting some legit tools that will last not some thin pice of plastic in a repair kit, but not sure exactly what I will need.

Just adding that if you're trying to match an existing texture pattern, it could be literally any number of techniques. A lot of pros use a texture gun and then optionally knock down the splatters.

You can sponge it, you can lay it on like adobe, you can barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, saute it. There's uh, drywall mud-kabobs, drywall mud creole, drywall mud gumbo. Pan fried, deep fried, stir-fried. There's pineapple drywall mud, lemon drywall mud, coconut drywall mud, pepper drywall mud, drywall mud soup, drywall mud stew, drywall mud salad, drywall mud and potatoes, drywall mud burger, drywall mud sandwich. That- that's about it."

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe
I feel like Forrest would have been an amazing drywall mudder.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
TLDR: Anyone used a chipper/shredder that can deal with stringy stuff well?

Why:
I want to shred a lot of philodendron (pictured) and monstera and which are both stringy AND a skin irritant. Also palm fronds, grasses, and climbing/vining weeds. I want to chip them so I can hot compost them all. This is an ongoing thing on my property and my moms. The only chipper I've tried, the harbor freight electric POS, wraps these around the shaft very quickly and tends to kick them back.



Gas is likely the better solution as my mom's property would require hauling them cuttings to the shredder rather than the two of us chipping as we shred.

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Jul 25, 2021

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Stuff like that doesn't feed through chippers. It's not what they're meant to do or how they work.

Sort that stuff out and run it over with your mower.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

CommonShore posted:

My buddy who is a drywall pro doesn't touch anything but the premix tubs. Everything else is a waste of his time.

I worked out the cost once, and surprisingly, the premixed tubs aren't more expensive. You'd think it would cost more to ship the water weight.

I don't mess with mixing my own either. The tubs do get nasty and go bad in a year or so, but I'm usually able to guess how much I need and not have leftovers. Either way, it's cheap enough not to care.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

B-Nasty posted:

I worked out the cost once, and surprisingly, the premixed tubs aren't more expensive. You'd think it would cost more to ship the water weight.

I don't mess with mixing my own either. The tubs do get nasty and go bad in a year or so, but I'm usually able to guess how much I need and not have leftovers. Either way, it's cheap enough not to care.

Agreed. but this is still use case specific. A drywall pro has a very different use case than a lot of other people.

Hot mud is absolutely stronger, so it's more useful for patches.....at least for your base coat. It also allows you to get to your second and third coats real drat quick instead of "tomorrow".

Right material for the right job.......just understand what each is good for and why you would choose it.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


CarForumPoster posted:

TLDR: Anyone used a chipper/shredder that can deal with stringy stuff well?

Why:
I want to shred a lot of philodendron (pictured) and monstera and which are both stringy AND a skin irritant. Also palm fronds, grasses, and climbing/vining weeds. I want to chip them so I can hot compost them all. This is an ongoing thing on my property and my moms. The only chipper I've tried, the harbor freight electric POS, wraps these around the shaft very quickly and tends to kick them back.



Gas is likely the better solution as my mom's property would require hauling them cuttings to the shredder rather than the two of us chipping as we shred.
If you’re in a climate where philodendron grows outside, I can guarantee it will rot in a year max (probably a few weeks in summer) if you just pile it up. It’s all herbaceous, squishy stuff that turns into jelly in a hurry, not woody stuff that takes a while to break down.

E: palm fronds can take longer, but still pretty quick if you chop them up a little with a shovel and put them at the middle/bottom of the pile. Agree with motronic that those are not going to chip well in most any homeowner size chipper.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Agree with motronic that those are not going to chip well in most any homeowner size chipper.

I don't even know how i'd get them through a big boy chipper other than leaving them on the ledge and hoping it feed through with some other big stuff. And even then, without other materials they won't shred correctly because a chipper is a big flywheel with knives on it made to destroy relatively stiff wood. Even just vines can clog a commercial chipper unless you're feeding them through with real tree slash that will help clear the sappy floppy stuff back out of it.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
Thanks! Mulching with the mower it is.

Hexigrammus
May 22, 2006

Cheech Wizard stories are clean, wholesome, reflective truths that go great with the marijuana munchies and a blow job.

CarForumPoster posted:

Thanks! Mulching with the mower it is.

Yeah, I agree that's the best route.

Part of the problem is terminology - everything I've seen for sale lately is the flywheel/planer blade setup sold as chipper/shredders. It used to be that these were chippers, full stop, and they won't work for poo poo on that type of material. Shredders used a hammermill, a rotating drum with little swinging knifes attached to it that either cut or beat the material into submission.More parts, less profit, so I don't think they exist anymore outside of industrial equipment.

I've got an old TroyBilt from the 90s with a hammermill. It will shred green garden waste like fresh tomato and corn stalks if you take the screen out and feed slowly. Mowing does the same thing without wasting your patience.

The old TroyBilt is also twice as heavy as the stuff currently built under the TroyBilt name. Don't recommend unless you have a garden tractor to drag it around with.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hexigrammus posted:

Shredders used a hammermill,

Yeah, that's a gigantic difference and I haven't seen one on the consumer side in forever, and commercially nobody other than soil and much places have them around here....I would have never thought of calling that a chipper. Good informative post.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

Motronic posted:

Agreed. but this is still use case specific. A drywall pro has a very different use case than a lot of other people.

Hot mud is absolutely stronger, so it's more useful for patches.....at least for your base coat. It also allows you to get to your second and third coats real drat quick instead of "tomorrow".

Right material for the right job.......just understand what each is good for and why you would choose it.

After patching and prepping to paint our house earlier this year, I much preferred the 40 minute mix yourself mud over the buckets. It feels stronger and dries in a usable amount of time. Plus you can mix it to any desired consistency. By the time you're done with one room or area, you can go back to put a second coat on where you started. I also liked working with a knife and rectangular mud pan than a bucket. Easy to have a clean side and a dirty side for new and old mud.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Motronic posted:

Yeah, that's a gigantic difference and I haven't seen one on the consumer side in forever, and commercially nobody other than soil and much places have them around here....I would have never thought of calling that a chipper. Good informative post.

I had one, a Craftsman with a 10hp Tec. It didn't chip for poo poo, but the shredder was awesome. We fed it tons of forsythia and grape vine, and it shredded it into... Shreds. Ditto with shitloads of oak leaves.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Thanks for the drywall info y'all, it seems mud is the stronger of the two, which is probably what I will go with, living in TX with foundations that move amounts I would have though impossible coming from IL.

I'm mainly just going to patch the occasional crack/s and have a few water damaged areas from the PO that need fixed.

On the same note what would cause drywall to be almost a power? In the laundry room I pushed on the wall and it just broke inward seemed have have a thin layer that was firm but the inside gypsum or wtvr was super powdery?

Rakeris fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Jul 26, 2021

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



I'm just going to post instead of googling because "hot mud" could be interesting to search. What is hot mud?

(all I've ever done is drywall patching with the joint compound little tubs)

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Hot mud is a cementious powder that the user mixes with water on site. It sets rapidly, in as little as 10 minutes. A pro can get multiple coats done very quickly. It's very handy to keep on hand for repair jobs because it won't go bad like the tubs will (if you keep it dry).

Biggest difference is because it cures instead of dries it can be used to fill large gaps and cracks without shrinking. Like you can stuff up to 1/2 cracks with hot mud. It comes in many setting time flavors, and in easy-sand versions.

Everything I've learned about drywall I've learned from the Vancouver Carpenter YouTube channel.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

tangy yet delightful posted:

I'm just going to post instead of googling because "hot mud" could be interesting to search. What is hot mud?

(all I've ever done is drywall patching with the joint compound little tubs)

Hot mud is the stuff we're talking about that you mix yourself. It comes in 20, 40, 60 or 90 minute set time typically. It doesn't dry, it cures with an exothermic reaction. You'll hear contractors refer to it as "hot mud" or just "40" (or whichever speed) around here.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

NomNomNom posted:

Hot mud is a cementious powder that the user mixes with water on site. It sets rapidly, in as little as 10 minutes. A pro can get multiple coats done very quickly. It's very handy to keep on hand for repair jobs because it won't go bad like the tubs will (if you keep it dry).

Biggest difference is because it cures instead of dries it can be used to fill large gaps and cracks without shrinking. Like you can stuff up to 1/2 cracks with hot mud. It comes in many setting time flavors, and in easy-sand versions.

Everything I've learned about drywall I've learned from the Vancouver Carpenter YouTube channel.

Vancouver Carpenter is awesome. I also learned a ton from him when renovating my basement.

(Also Home Renovision, but he's less good at actual mudding.)


e: Oh also there's an update on the drill odyssey: I couldn't wait until the weekend to bring the drill to Lowes, so I ordered a new one on Amazon. It shows up 2 days later... and it's used. Call Amazon, they send me a new one and tell me to just keep the old one. :toot:

Cue to this last weekend and I still hadn't gotten to Lowes, but I needed to use the 90 on another lag bolt. gently caress it, things already broke I may as well still use it. 5th bolt in, and the 90 comes off the chuck by itself mid-drill. Chuck seems to be fine (I've used it a ton for other stuff), so.... win? (I threw the 90 into the new/used one to keep using because I needed to keep using it and I'm dumb like that. But it comes out so far.)

SouthShoreSamurai fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Jul 26, 2021

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


imagine i photoshopped why cant i hold all these limes guy but with drills

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FHOWQQO/?th=1
Dewalt 20v brushless planer, tool only, $150

I can't really think of a reason I need this, but I also can't think of any reasons why I shouldn't buy it

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


canyoneer posted:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FHOWQQO/?th=1
Dewalt 20v brushless planer, tool only, $150

I can't really think of a reason I need this, but I also can't think of any reasons why I shouldn't buy it

Amazon’s Choice in DeWalt Band Saws!!

I just got a corded Makita for about the same price and it does go ‘brrrrr’ really fast, but unless you have a bunch of doors to trim down or something it’s not really that useful of a tool. It also makes a huge loving mess.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Amazon’s Choice in DeWalt Band Saws!!

I just got a corded Makita for about the same price and it does go ‘brrrrr’ really fast, but unless you have a bunch of doors to trim down or something it’s not really that useful of a tool. It also makes a huge loving mess.

I have the cordless Makita. It's great for trimming doors (especially outdoor doors, every drat year), and also for construction (making all your studs in the same plane before drywall, same for floor joists/rafters, etc.) Can confirm, makes a giant loving mess.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Picked up the 40V Ryobi trimmer and it's p nice. So much beter than the trash tier 30dollar plugin one I had bought when we bought the house. It's a little heavy but no heavier than a gas one would be.
WIll maybe be trying the tiller portion at some point, but might stay in the box until next year when I need for garden (I have 1 year to return with HOmedepot Card)

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I'm all in on Greenworks 40V which is great for my little city lot. I've got the 40V Cultivator and it's been pretty great. One thing about that model, and I suspect all tools of similar power (and I see it in the product video for the Ryobi Cultivator attachment) is that if you push the machine forward the tines are digging as well as pulling the machine forward, so they don't get really deep. If you want to dig deep and really tear poo poo up, pull it backwards.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Looks like I'm gonna score a Ryobi TSS120L for $150 from a guy near me who used it once and doesn't need it.

Not bad for a 12" Sliding Miter Saw

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

Deviant posted:

Looks like I'm gonna score a Ryobi TSS120L for $150 from a guy near me who used it once and doesn't need it.

Not bad for a 12" Sliding Miter Saw

I have a Ryobi 10' miter that sits on the floor of my shop. Everyday I turn the lights on, look at it, think to myself "why the gently caress do I have this thing." Your post reminded me again. I need this thing out of my life. It's like a spectre haunting me.

It hasn't been a part of my workflow for 3 years. It just sits there. Laughing.

E: this is not intended to be a negative review of your upcoming cool tool. Just a soliloquy on the state of my workspace.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Literally A Person posted:

I have a Ryobi 10' miter that sits on the floor of my shop. Everyday I turn the lights on, look at it, think to myself "why the gently caress do I have this thing." Your post reminded me again. I need this thing out of my life. It's like a spectre haunting me.

It hasn't been a part of my workflow for 3 years. It just sits there. Laughing.

Is there something you don't like about it? I was going to get a ryobi 10" until i found this.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

Deviant posted:

Is there something you don't like about it? I was going to get a ryobi 10" until i found this.

Not really. It's a miter saw but ever since I got a tablesaw that's big enough to do panels I just cut everything on that. And anything that doesn't get cut on that goes to the shop bandsaw.

Now the one thing I will say about that miter saw is that it came out of the box so far out of alignment it required me to remove all the table bits to set it to true which is a little irritating. If you're getting it from someone else who used it though that shouldn't be much of an issue.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

Literally A Person posted:

I have a Ryobi 10' miter that sits on the floor of my shop. Everyday I turn the lights on, look at it, think to myself "why the gently caress do I have this thing." Your post reminded me again. I need this thing out of my life. It's like a spectre haunting me.

It hasn't been a part of my workflow for 3 years. It just sits there. Laughing.

My dad loved to give me tools so one Christmas I asked for a 12” sliding compound miter saw without thinking about just how big they are. I’ve never even plugged it in because I haven’t had any projects that needed it.

I should get it out of my basement and sell it to someone who would actually use it.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


After a replacement diablo blade, I got the ryobi 12 slider for $185. Let's see if I still love it months from now!

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I have a table saw (no band saw) and my miter saw still gets lots of use for trim and dimensional lumber.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
I love my Milwaukee M18 7-1/4" compound miter saw. It's small but does a great job and since it has sliders it can actually cut some pretty big lumber.

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Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

SpartanIvy posted:

I love my Milwaukee M18 7-1/4" compound miter saw. It's small but does a great job and since it has sliders it can actually cut some pretty big lumber.

What's the footprint of that thing?

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