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brugroffil posted:Color-coding for what's in the pipe. Yellow=gas. What's in the pipe and what the tape is made of/thickness. White tape for water is single thickness, yellow tape is double, red/pink tape is triple (you'll likely never see that - it's for very large diameter pipe) and green is completely oil free for O2 systems. And there are probably others I've never come across.
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# ? Jul 29, 2021 15:17 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 01:09 |
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Can I use pipe dope/sealant on flare fitting threads for a gas line install? I have 5/8" FIP connections on my flex line that needs to go on to a 1/2" MIP connection on the range and gas shutoff. I was able to get adapters to do this that are 5/8 OD flare on one end, and 1/2" FIP on the other: but I got different info from different home Depot folks, one saying I can't use any pipe dope on the flared fitting at all, the other said to use it like all fittings. Back to online and the only way I could reconcile the two is that using it on the thread is fine, but what people are REALLY saying is don't use any on the flare itself (which makes sense).
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# ? Aug 2, 2021 03:11 |
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PageMaster posted:Can I use pipe dope/sealant on flare fitting threads for a gas line install? I have 5/8" FIP connections on my flex line that needs to go on to a 1/2" MIP connection on the range and gas shutoff. I was able to get adapters to do this that are 5/8 OD flare on one end, and 1/2" FIP on the other: You can and should use pipe dope (or yellow teflon tape) on the FIP threads. Make sure the pipe dope is listed for gas usage. I think it pretty much all is, but you never know. Definitely DO NOT use pipe dope on the flared side. Tightening the nut should compress the flex pipe against the flare on the fitting and give you a perfect seal. The exception to this is if you're using old and damaged fittings or old flex pipe, which you shouldn't do (but people do because $$). In those cases some people use a little pipe dope on the outside of the flare to get a better seal. Once again I would recommend against that but I've seen it done a whoooooooole lot.
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# ? Aug 2, 2021 04:02 |
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Went and looked and the gas valve connection is a flared male as well, so no pipe dope at all anywhere? It makes sense to me now that I understand it, but I never even knew about this until I happened to ask today; maybe this is all common knowledge I've been oblivious to since I've seen (and done) basic gas appliance hookups plenty of times. Edit: do all FIP connections have a flare seat, or so you need a special female fitting due a male flare? PageMaster fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Aug 2, 2021 |
# ? Aug 2, 2021 04:33 |
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Don't ever listen to what home Depot people say. You could have just read the instructions that came with the hose/connector. Clearly states that you need sealer on threads and threads only. Don't wing gas connections from second hand information, please
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# ? Aug 2, 2021 05:38 |
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FIP and MIP threading is just normal pipe threading like on plumbing and stuff. The threads lock together as you tighten the pipe to create a seal. You should tape/dope them during assembly to fill any gaps in between the threads and improve the seal. Flare and compression fittings seal on the two mating surfaces that are squeezed together by the threading. The threading itself only provides compression and doping the threads would do nothing except make the next guy want to strangle you when they try to remove it later. The stove manifold and the wall outlet should each have a 5/8" male flare fitting that the flex hose screws onto to join together. The one in your earlier post is an example, but they can also come integrated with valves and look slightly different. Here is the instructions you should be following as stated above. https://d2cl5to9q9oami.cloudfront.net/doc/325.01_ProCoatGasConn_INS.pdf SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Aug 2, 2021 |
# ? Aug 2, 2021 05:44 |
It appears to be time to retire this faucet: If I have to deal with that anyway, I want to have a better faucet at the end of it. Is it possible to put something more akin to a mop sink faucet on it? IE, some kind of hose threads so I can do more with it. Google/home depot/similar searches have brought me nothing, but I'm not sure if the common big box stores would even have something like this. As an example of what I want, if it were possible to just graft a regular garden hose faucet onto it, and use the valve as the diverter to feed the shower, I'd be happy (but I'm 97% sure this would extremely not fit in any way, hence the research)
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 01:22 |
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I want to filter our tap water for drinking. The water here is super hard. I drink it all the time but others in the apartment insist on buying and drinking 'soft' bottled. I don't think I want to bother with a whole-house water softener system unless someone can convince me they are worth it. For just our drinking water, there seem to be endless options for a filtration system under the kitchen sink but we can't do that. We have a wall-mounted faucet on an outside wall and we're seven floors up so I have no way of accessing those pipes. Our water heater is mounted to the wall (this is a european apartment) in a nook of the kitchen with a counter below it so maybe I could split the line feeding water into the water heater and have a water pipe connecting to some filter thing that sits on the counter. Basically the same as a device that would go under the sink but not designed to be hidden under the counter? Does such a thing exist? Or is there some other way, besides a filter jug, that I am missing?
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 14:15 |
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other people posted:I want to filter our tap water for drinking. The water here is super hard. I drink it all the time but others in the apartment insist on buying and drinking 'soft' bottled. would your wall mounted faucet allow for something like a Britta faucet adapter? They're kind of annoying and I'd probably use a countertop filter instead (I do). But this is less annoying since you dont need to wait for your jug to refill because you forgot about it (I always do) https://www.target.com/p/brita-tap-...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds Yes you could take your cold water source from the heater but generally it's going to have to go under a counter / mounted to a wall and then run teh feed to the faucet in a creative way? There's also the waterchef which uses your faucet but isn't a big honking thing hanging off the end of your faucet.
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 14:27 |
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other people posted:I don't think I want to bother with a whole-house water softener system unless someone can convince me they are worth it.
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 15:30 |
other people posted:I want to filter our tap water for drinking. The water here is super hard. I drink it all the time but others in the apartment insist on buying and drinking 'soft' bottled. I have ridiculously hard water (2500ppm) and run a water softener. The water is undrinkable out of the water softener. The water softener doesn't remove the hardness, it just replaces it with sodium ions. It literally tastes like sea water. We run an undersink reverse osmosis unit and it makes the water drinkable, takes it down to 100 ppm or so. We also use a Brita filter jug in the fridge and it does a solid job for drinking water too, it is a combination of DI resins and charcoal.
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 15:31 |
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Arsenic Lupin posted:You do not drink water-softened water, because it tastes absolutely foul. When I was growing up, houses with water softeners specifically did not have the kitchen tap connected to the softened water. This dates back to the '70s, so take it with a grain of Geritol. Yeah, that's not a thing anymore for high quality properly maintained water softeners unless your water is SUPER hard. They all generally sucked and leeched saline recharge water back in those days as I recall.
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 16:20 |
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Motronic posted:Yeah, that's not a thing anymore for high quality properly maintained water softeners unless your water is SUPER hard. They all generally sucked and leeched saline recharge water back in those days as I recall. Yeah. I grew up in a house with a softener that was built in the mid nineties, and the water tasted flat but not bad. I'd rather drink that than the pool-water from most municipal supplies.
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 16:54 |
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I don't notice any salty taste in my softened water, but it's only about 18GPG hardness by default. I originally had my fridge ice/water dispenser off the soft loop, but I realized that one of the major appliances I don't want getting gunked up with hard water is the $3.5K fridge.
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 18:17 |
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I should not have mentioned the water softener. I just want to filter the water so other people won't complain about the taste. I think it tastes fine but my wife doesn't like to drink it. But she has said she would if I get a filter and I'm dying to do it because I hate buying bottled water. The faucet is nothing special and one of those filters that screws on the end would be doable but I personally am not thrilled with that idea. It seems like it would get in the way.
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 18:45 |
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Since we're on the subject of hard and soft water, which one is it that when you shower, and try to rinse the soap off, it makes you feel all slimy and the soap doesn't seem to want to rinse off.
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 19:08 |
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Since we're on the subject of hard and soft water, which one is it that when you shower, and try to rinse the soap off, it makes you feel all slimy and the soap doesn't seem to want to rinse off. Soft.
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 19:11 |
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Since we're on the subject of hard and soft water, which one is it that when you shower, and try to rinse the soap off, it makes you feel all slimy and the soap doesn't seem to want to rinse off. Overly softened water. This isn't a given just because you are running a water softener, but it is absolutely a thing people remember and decide they hate water softeners because of that poorly maintained one they experienced.
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 19:21 |
If you just naturally have that kind of water, can you do anything about it? I visit a bunch of people in the same city and all of them have that horrible water, so I'm guessing it's just the city water and they don't ALL have overkill softeners. And I might end up moving there, gently caress
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 22:50 |
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You can have all sorts of in home filtration if you want. Some people have basically their own water treatment plants in their home to get pure water out of the tap. Like everything else, it's just a matter of time and money! There's probably a local water treatment place that'd love to come test your water for free and make recommendations, especially if there are people on wells on the area.
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# ? Aug 7, 2021 01:37 |
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Javid posted:If you just naturally have that kind of water, can you do anything about it? Yeah, beach/shore water is like that. You can certainly get systems to inject/mix a mineral package back into the water, but I hope you have a lot of money and like doing/paying for maintenance.
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# ? Aug 7, 2021 03:20 |
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I have a leaky fill valve that I need to replace but I can’t work out what kind of fill valve I need to buy because it looks nothing like any of the ones I find online. They all seem to have a little pipe to feed into a dedicated overflow that I don’t seem to have, or they’re the same as this but without the little clear plastic sheathed whatever-the-gently caress-this-thing-is on the side which I assume is important somehow. What am I looking for?
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# ? Aug 7, 2021 17:14 |
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History Comes Inside! posted:I have a leaky fill valve that I need to replace but I can’t work out what kind of fill valve I need to buy because it looks nothing like any of the ones I find online. What brand toilet do you have? Is it special in some way? If not, go buy whatever kit the store has for your brand. Ignore whatever horror show is currently there.
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# ? Aug 8, 2021 00:18 |
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Motronic posted:Yeah, beach/shore water is like that. You can certainly get systems to inject/mix a mineral package back into the water, but I hope you have a lot of money and like doing/paying for maintenance. Aha! We just moved to a house by the shore and now it all makes sense.
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# ? Aug 8, 2021 00:25 |
How do I take this faucet off? There's no set screw visible on it; it can both twist and pull a little but it seems to be held in place by the diverter thing in both cases, which doesn't unscrew or have any discernible means of removal, either.
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# ? Aug 9, 2021 00:19 |
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Javid posted:How do I take this faucet off?
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# ? Aug 9, 2021 01:38 |
There is definitely not a recognizable screw head or orifice that might contain one anywhere on the exterior of the faucet. This is the bottom: It will slide out from the wall a *little* but nowhere near enough to uncover a screw head in any useful fashion. I'm hesitant to reef on it too hard, because that metal looks like nice, sharp swiss cheese that will just explode if I put real force on it in the wrong direction.
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# ? Aug 9, 2021 02:02 |
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Javid posted:There is definitely not a recognizable screw head or orifice that might contain one anywhere on the exterior of the faucet. This is the bottom: Does the whole thing unscrew from the wall like in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qa86KeoisGQ (like 2 mins in?)
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# ? Aug 9, 2021 02:18 |
Shoving a handle up it for leverage like that just resulted in it splitting open along the cracks. still won't come off the wall, though. e: lol Javid fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Aug 9, 2021 |
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# ? Aug 9, 2021 02:26 |
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When I took my old spout off it took a strap wrench and a big pipe wrench to get it spinning, but it also crumbled in parts during the process.
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# ? Aug 9, 2021 02:35 |
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Javid posted:Shoving a handle up it for leverage like that just resulted in it splitting open along the cracks. still won't come off the wall, though. you should probably turn off your water before you start loving with plumbing, yeah
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# ? Aug 9, 2021 03:17 |
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It looks like it's caulked to the wall, have you tried to cut that caulk? Without a set screw there it's most likely that it's just screwed into the wall, though who knows how you'd actually apply force to it to get it to twist off.
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# ? Aug 9, 2021 15:39 |
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It's also worth looking to see if there's some sort of access panel on the other side of the wall where the faucet is to see if it's secured back there somewhere.
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# ? Aug 9, 2021 18:49 |
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I'm hooking up a countertop dishwasher (Farberware Professional FCD06ABBWHA). It will be supplied by 1/2" PEXB and output into a 1" hole in the garbage disposal. I went to the local hardware store with the sink hookup hoses and couldn't find a match for the output, but I'm pretty sure the input was 3/4" garden hose thread (I should have taken notes). I submitted a question through the Farberware website asking what the threads are with no reply in over two weeks. Anyway, I'm ordering this flex hose from amazon to hook up the supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BRU4RJQ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Will a male 3/8" NPT work with that 3/8" FCM? Any idea what the threads might be on the output and how to hook it up to a 1" flex hose? I can get out the calipers and get some measurements if that will help.
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# ? Aug 13, 2021 02:30 |
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I'm sure your dishwasher will come with the connection hose that's made to hook up to a faucet or whatever. There will be comprehensive instructions in the package
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# ? Aug 13, 2021 04:05 |
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Nitrox posted:I'm sure your dishwasher will come with the connection hose that's made to hook up to a faucet or whatever. There will be comprehensive instructions in the package Yes, and there are comprehensive instructions on how to hook it up to a faucet. I'm doing a permanant hookup to the water line and the garbage disposal and there are no instructions, hoses, nor fittings for that.
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# ? Aug 13, 2021 13:55 |
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H110Hawk posted:What brand toilet do you have? Is it special in some way? If not, go buy whatever kit the store has for your brand. Ignore whatever horror show is currently there. My toilet has no branding on it anywhere, it’s going to be whatever the cheapest toilet available at the time was when they built the houses on this development because there are 3 in every house. I took it apart and found a diaphragm with a little pinhole in the rubber, replaced that and put it back together again. Problem solved!
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# ? Aug 13, 2021 14:41 |
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SkunkDuster posted:Yes, and there are comprehensive instructions on how to hook it up to a faucet. I'm doing a permanant hookup to the water line and the garbage disposal and there are no instructions, hoses, nor fittings for that.
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# ? Aug 13, 2021 16:03 |
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I need a very short extension for the water input hose for a dishwasher. I would replace the entire hose but it seems to be permanently attached and has what looks like some filter thing in-line which I guess should stay. So I need a short flexible hose that is 3/4 diameter male to female. Either of the following would work, right? 1. https://www.bricomart.es/latiguillo-filbor-50cm-3-4-dn-20-m-h-10560865.html "For connecting water to radiators, heat pumps, boilers, heaters, heating, etc. CHARACTERISTICS Flexible connection of Ø20mm in diameter. 50cm long. 3/4 "Male-Female connection. The water flow is 220l / min. Maximum working pressure 10 bar." 2. https://www.bricomart.es/latiguillo-rfzd-30cm-3-4-3-4-dn-13-m-h-10119711.html "Flexible hose to connect the water supply network to water heaters, bathtubs, walls equipped with shower stalls and whirlpool bathtubs. 86 liters / min water flow at a pressure of 3 bar. with brass couplings, connectors and stainless steel braid. CHARACTERISTICS Flexible connection of Ø13mm diameter. 30cm long. 3/4 "Male-Female connection. Operating temperature From -5ºC to 70ºC. Working pressure from 0 to 10 Bar."
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# ? Aug 16, 2021 10:12 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 01:09 |
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We're mid repipe. I sprung for the good copper poo poo because I'm not doing this thing where I spend every quake wondering if the PEX finally died. Some wonderful findings: - To emphasize where we're starting from, you cannot run hot water through any sinks, a toilet, or the dishwasher without comically freezing whoever is in the shower. In addition, our water pressure is best described as "flood setting on extremely cheap hose nozzle". - Every single hot water pipe in our townhome has joints/elbows that are quite literally so corroded that it looks like something off of a coral reef. I get that it's 50 year old galvanized steel but . Our pinhole leaks in the hot water pipes are consistent enough that I'm honestly not sure how these fuckers haven't broken yet. - Similarly, our laundry hookups and hot water overflow setup were "so bad I don't know how this ever passed code even in the 70s" with weird arrays of Flex pipe hidden in the wall in such a way that I honestly can barely keep it straight. - The upstairs sink lines are over an AC soffit, meaning our repipe will have to go through the goddamn cabinets and get put in the wall later when we redo/split the upstairs bathroom and get rid of that soffit. On top of that, the original builder managed to thread the hot water pipe for the shower upstairs through the literal corner of the unit up, such that it's not only sandwiched between two floor joists and spaced an inch or two apart and a cabinet in front but the only way to even theoretically access it is to go through exterior stucco. - Whoever ran the pipe to our hose connector on the patio managed to run the pipe at ceiling height through the living room directly through our chimney while also going over a built-in. I'm having this line disconnected, but we can't pull the loving pipes out until we get rid of the popcorn ceiling in the living room because it's like 4 different lines with the most incoherent fire block system in the world. This was objectively a good thing to do, but I also am firmly in "why the gently caress did I buy a house territory". I've elected to push my desire to finally buy a non-work laptop for the first time in a decade back a couple months because we now need stucco repairs and likely just have them handle the ceiling drywall patches because gently caress this. I can drywall but this is like the entire area surrounding the water heater and like 50 square feet of ceiling.
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# ? Aug 19, 2021 17:54 |