|
becoming posted:I bought a factory-second powder-coated satin steel sheet from Prusa for my i3 MK3S+ with the purpose of using it as my default PETG plate. Holy poo poo, this thing is like magic: perfect adhesion (Prusament PETG), but when it cools the prints just slide right off. I'm about to try a bigger print with some cheaper Inland PETG+ I got on clearance and will report back if it's any different, but when using The Good Stuff, it's incredible. with PETG the problem is too much adhesion. There is however a dirty cheap way to make it work perfectly and that is regular glue sticks, it provides protective barrier between the print and printbed.
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 08:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 10:46 |
|
|
Has anyone got a big matrix of filament types vs use/properties? Like this has uv tolerance, this shrinks after printing, this is better to be left on the dash of a hot car, that sort of thing?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 09:19
|
|
|
Dark Off posted:with PETG the problem is too much adhesion. That's why Prusa made the (textured) powdered coat sheet, and then later on the satin sheet that has a finer texture. No glue stick required.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 09:32
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Has anyone got a big matrix of filament types vs use/properties? Like this has uv tolerance, this shrinks after printing, this is better to be left on the dash of a hot car, that sort of thing? Each filament is good at a lot of things. It's probably best to post your use-case and printer, and we can recommend filaments. comedy option: use polysulfone for everything. poo poo rules
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 13:34
|
|
|
insta posted:comedy option: use polysulfone for everything. poo poo rules For $150+/kg it better.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 13:54
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Has anyone got a big matrix of filament types vs use/properties? Like this has uv tolerance, this shrinks after printing, this is better to be left on the dash of a hot car, that sort of thing? It’s not a matrix but All3dp has a big list with material properties. I didn’t see UV tolerance specifically though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 15:18
|
|
|
Dark Off posted:with PETG the problem is too much adhesion. As Wibla said, it's not an issue with this sheet - PETG sticks to this sheet when it's hot, but when the print is done and it cools, it comes right off, no effort required. I ran a large print overnight - as in, a lot of surface area in contact with the build plate - and when I got to my printer this morning I was able to just pick the print up off of the plate. It had already released and was just sitting there waiting for me to grab it. This has been the same with both Prusament PETG and Inland PETG+ thus far. I guess what I'm saying is, anyone that has a Prusa with a smooth sheet and is thinking "I wish there were a way to print PETG and not have to use a glue stick" should get the satin powder-coated sheet, because hot drat it is great. I do expect that I'll need to glue stick my Ender 3 v2 print surface if and when the time comes to print PETG on it, but for now with this satin sheet, the Prusa definitely gets that job. Edit: fixed typo. becoming fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Aug 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 16:49
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:For $150+/kg it better. i'm sorry i dont speak broke $13/kg pla printers i dont speak $150/kg either since i'm also broke from buying a shitload of $13/kg pla
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 16:56
|
|
|
Hah, lookit this noob who buys $13/kg filament like some kinda poor... hides 10 pack of $7.99/kg filament
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 17:10
|
|
|
If I were home if be posting this looking at my massive pile of spools I got through Amazon Vine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 17:21
|
|
|
For anyone in Canada trying to hunt down resin, amazon suddenly has a whole bunch of different resin in at reasonable prices again. Just bought 10kg of esun for <50$ a bottle which is a Christmas miracle given how hosed everything has been for a long time up here w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Aug 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 19:35
|
|
|
Not sure if this is a dumb question but the problem is that when I try to google this I'm either finding old information or people saying "Don't do it like that, do it like this." I just got my Ender 3 set up again after a move, but I can't find the USB - Micro SD adapter, the Micro SD card was still in the printer. I've got a USB cable I can use to connect to the Ender 3 but I'm not sure how to send the print over that. Everyone is saying to use the SD card, but the problem is that the nearest place that even might have either a USB to Micro SD adapter or a Micro SD to SD adapter is about 30 minutes away, if not maybe a bit more. So I would really prefer to order an adapter and just make do with a USB cable until it gets here. I know that if the computer goes to sleep that can kill the print, but the first thing I'm doing is just checking the bed leveling, then I'll be doing a prototype of a part that will take 2 hours, and I'll be on the computer all day so it's not an issue. Printer: Ender 3 Pro Slicer: Prusa Slicer
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 21:28
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Not sure if this is a dumb question but the problem is that when I try to google this I'm either finding old information or people saying "Don't do it like that, do it like this." I just got my Ender 3 set up again after a move, but I can't find the USB - Micro SD adapter, the Micro SD card was still in the printer. I've got a USB cable I can use to connect to the Ender 3 but I'm not sure how to send the print over that. Everyone is saying to use the SD card, but the problem is that the nearest place that even might have either a USB to Micro SD adapter or a Micro SD to SD adapter is about 30 minutes away, if not maybe a bit more. So I would really prefer to order an adapter and just make do with a USB cable until it gets here. I know that if the computer goes to sleep that can kill the print, but the first thing I'm doing is just checking the bed leveling, then I'll be doing a prototype of a part that will take 2 hours, and I'll be on the computer all day so it's not an issue. If you hook up a computer directly to the printer via usb you can use something like pronterface to drip feed the gcode file to the printer via the serial interface. Ender 3 pro baud rate is apparently 250000
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 21:35
|
|
|
Thanks, I'll try that for now. I really don't feel like driving 40+ miles just to pick up a $10 adapter from Wal-Mart. I'm just printing some footings for now to hold foam board upright so high detail isn't much of a concern.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 21:54
|
|
|
The USB serial interface is also how octoprint delivers gcode to the printer which might be worth looking into since you're bypassing the sd card anyway 
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2021 22:58
|
|
|
Toebone posted:Any ideas why my prints keep failing like this? Started when I switched from Sirayatech Fast to Anycubic Eco. Printer settings should be the same according to internet, ambient temp is 80°F. The piece is supposed to be angled like that; it looks like the supports just stopped at some point and the piece couldn't support itself at a certain point and just broke up Definitely play with longer exposure times. I had to go up by about 25-50% for the Eco vs regular resins.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 00:44
|
|
|
mewse posted:The USB serial interface is also how octoprint delivers gcode to the printer which might be worth looking into since you're bypassing the sd card anyway I was actually thinking about seeing if I could run Octoprint in a Docker container until I can find my pi/buy a new one. E: Apparently it's a thing, although I don't know how I feel about having my gaming desktop awake all night if I'm doing a long print. I was cleaning off the print bed since it has been in storage for a while and I noticed that the magnetic coating on the bottom is starting to crack. If I end up needing to replace the build surface, would it be worth going to glass or some other non-PEI surface? I do want to print high-temp materials down the line and IIRC the bed can have problems past a certain temperature and I know the Bowden tube can so I'll be planning on upgrading the hot end at that point too, but that's in the future. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Aug 21, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 01:30
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:I was actually thinking about seeing if I could run Octoprint in a Docker container until I can find my pi/buy a new one. E: Apparently it's a thing, although I don't know how I feel about having my gaming desktop awake all night if I'm doing a long print. TH3D rates their EZFlex magnetic base for long-term use up to 140ş C. After getting used to a nice PEI sheet on my Prusa, I cannot get away from the glass on my Ender 3 v2 quickly enough; my TH3D EZFlex base and PEI steel sheet are due to arrive tomorrow. I understand that some folks like glass but for my purposes, I don't see it. For what it's worth, while I did not wind up choosing an Ender 3 Pro, I did consider it and in reading up on it came across many folks who lamented the overall poor quality of the magnetic base that Creality shipped with it. If you're still rocking the stock setup and not entirely thrilled with it, you may be pleasantly surprised by some of the third-party offerings. We had a short discussion on this a few pages back and the advice I received (about my E3 v2 glass bed) could be summed up as "buy a third-party magnetic base and PEI steel sheet".
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 02:20
|
|
|
Fabreeko is selling ender 3 returns for $99 if anyone wants a second printer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 03:16
|
|
|
Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Hah, lookit this noob who buys $13/kg filament like some kinda poor... Is the 8 or 13 buck stuff actually decent? I was advised early on to stick to a certain handful of brands, and while I've been perfectly happy with my $20 hatchbox PLA, even 13/kg would sure let me print more spaceships per effort of dealing with amazon
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 03:38
|
|
|
insta posted:Fabreeko is selling ender 3 returns for $99 if anyone wants a second printer. I have a friend that's looking, but I can't seem to find them on the site - was this an email-only deal? He's currently got an M3D Micro from the original Kickstarter, so literally anything is an upgrade.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 03:52
|
|
|
Welp, I can't even get my computer to recognize the printer so all that time trying to get octoprint to work was a loving waste. Guess I'm going on a road trip after all, which I could have done in 1/4 of the time of trying to get Octoprint to work 
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 04:16
|
|
|
insta posted:Fabreeko is selling ender 3 returns for $99 if anyone wants a second printer. i’ve never been quite able to justify “bigger and cheaper, if cruder, prints” enough to get some FDM goin to augment my resin, but at that price point, well heck
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 08:02
|
|
|
Speaking of deals, Micro Center is offering the Ender 3 Pro for $99 but you'll need to be a new customer and sign up to receive the coupon via text message. I don't think I can justify a second Project Car-type printer, certainly not enough to have my wife go into Micro Center and be the new customer (I've been shopping there since, uh, like 1994), but this strikes me as a pretty solid deal for the hassle of having to reply "STOP" to a text message after picking it up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 08:44
|
|
|
Do the Ender 3 Pro have the really noisy mainboard? That was fixed in the E3 V2? That alone is worth the extra $80 for me, the printer sits about 3 feet to my left.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 08:51
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:Do the Ender 3 Pro have the really noisy mainboard? That was fixed in the E3 V2? That alone is worth the extra $80 for me, the printer sits about 3 feet to my left. Yeah, it doesn't have a silent stepper driver board like the V2. The Ender 3 Pro came out slightly after the Ender 3 and the Pro was just meant a little bit nicer and not made to hit a price point like the normal Ender 3 (the Pro has beefier aluminum extrusions, meanwell power supply, I forget what else). It was like, what if the Ender 3 engineering team didn't have to cut corners. That said, I believe it still has the plastic extruder handle. The silent creality board that's in the V2 is available separately for around $35 on Amazon and for the most part just plugs in to the same cable as the original board, but I'd definitely suggest the V2 for someone who's new and wants a good printer without immediately swapping parts out. Well, besides the extruder handle and springs at least.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 09:01
|
|
|
Javid posted:Is the 8 or 13 buck stuff actually decent? I was advised early on to stick to a certain handful of brands, and while I've been perfectly happy with my $20 hatchbox PLA, even 13/kg would sure let me print more spaceships per effort of dealing with amazon I honestly have no idea. I have 2 fdm printers that I need to unbox and set up and just haven't had the time or space to do it yet. The good news is when I do I'll have 10 spools to go through! Was a bulk rate sale, but toss in free shipping and that's another 2 bucks off a roll. Figured at that price with the reviews I saw, it was worth a gamble. It wasn't Amazon, it was off gst3d.com if you wanna take a peek. I've gotten an email or two about their sales since then, so it might be pretty common. No idea. I'll post a trip report when I get my poo poo together and have a printer up to actually play with.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 09:11
|
|
|
Javid posted:Is the 8 or 13 buck stuff actually decent? I was advised early on to stick to a certain handful of brands, and while I've been perfectly happy with my $20 hatchbox PLA, even 13/kg would sure let me print more spaceships per effort of dealing with amazon I've actually been pretty impressed with the GST3D and IIID Max filament, which is all the same stuff to the best of my knowledge. At the very least they're sourcing their kind of janky looking spools from the same place. It's probably not going to win a Highest Quality Filament of the Year award, but every color I've tried so far has printed cleanly and reliably. Printing temps generally seem to support their PLA+ advertising, I'm running it between 215 and 225 on three different printers right now. Aside from the occasional stretch of slightly inconsistent pigmentation (I've seen this mostly in the greys), so far I'm fairly hard pressed to tell stuff printed with this apart from anything done with more expensive PLA's. I was fully prepared to just tip the whole box into the trash and write it off if necessary, but I've actually gone in the other direction and bought four of the 10-packs in the last two months.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 10:48
|
|
|
insta posted:Each filament is good at a lot of things. It's probably best to post your use-case and printer, and we can recommend filaments. Ender 3 pro, standard QOL upgrades, spring steel PEI bed. Use case 1: something that's going to be outside permanently, weather and UV stable required. Use case 2: higher temperature resistance than PLA, parts to go inside a car (but not in the engine bay)
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 13:50
|
|
|
Stormangel posted:Definitely play with longer exposure times. I had to go up by about 25-50% for the Eco vs regular resins. I'll try that out. Amazon accidentally sent me two bottles of Eco instead of one, so I've got a bit to go through but I think I'm going back to Siraya once they're done. Also, my FEP leaked during that last print. Thank goodness I had slapped a screen protector on there, if I had to wait another two months to get a replacement screen from Elegoo I would have been unhappy.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 14:03
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Ender 3 pro, standard QOL upgrades, spring steel PEI bed. ASA does both, and will print on PEI in a passive enclosure on a Creality machine. Enjoy!
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 17:22
|
|
|
I've got a friend with a SparkMaker Original SLA printer that he backed on Kickstarter because he's a goofy bastard. He's been mostly happy with it, but maybe six months or a year ago the plate started slipping down the Z-rod while he was printing, a sort of vertical layer shift. I've learned that something similar is seemingly endemic to Creality's single-Z printers and have ordered an anti-backlash nut from TH3D, but I'm having trouble finding much info about this with SLA printers. I'm wondering if I just don't have the right vocabulary with which to search. Has anyone here experienced this with an SLA printer and/or is able to point me in the right direction?
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 20:07
|
|
|
Anyone who wants cheap Enders, email info@fabreeko.com They are used returns to Amazon, so they'll all need something stupid, like a new nozzle or setting the voltage on the power supply correctly, or whatever thing the previous owner couldn't figure out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 20:10
|
|
|
How cheap we talking?
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 21:05
|
|
|
I have put PLA in my engine bay AND on the outside of my building, and while I would not advise anyone else to do this, it's held up shockingly well in both cases
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2021 23:33
|
|
|
Scarodactyl posted:How cheap we talking? sometimes more than half off
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2021 00:19
|
|
|
Javid posted:I have put PLA in my engine bay AND on the outside of my building, and while I would not advise anyone else to do this, it's held up shockingly well in both cases There's also PLA+ which costs a tiny bit more and has substantially better tolerances re heat/stress
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2021 02:35
|
|
|
I think this is my most complicated design yet. I had a broken accessory for an old microscope and turned it into a rotating polarizer. It has an outer shell that bolts onto the existing metal shell with a channel. The inner slider takes two bolts on the outside that keep it from sliding all the way out. The polarizer can rotate about 80 degrees, unfortunately not quite 90 but it wasn't possible geometrically.    It's a nice thing to have, and anyway I needed a spacer to make it fit together geometrically. This way it feels less like wasted space.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2021 05:32
|
|
|
Okay, if I wanted a spring steel bed for the Ender, what would I need aside from this? Is the spring steel the print surface or do you still need a PEI thing for that? https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Flexible-Removable-Platform-235x235MM-Printing/dp/B088841XH9/ref=sr_1_59
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2021 06:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 10:46 |
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Okay, if I wanted a spring steel bed for the Ender, what would I need aside from this? Is the spring steel the print surface or do you still need a PEI thing for that? I'd wait for more goons to answer since I don't use this, but I believe you want spring steel with a PEI coating, and you'll need the magnetic base on your bed to make it adhere unless your printer already has one (it probably doesn't). The Ender 3 is 235mm. Those options are for sale on that page but down at the bottom for $26.99. Basically there's an adhesive magnet sheet that you put on the bed, then you put the spring steel on top of it and the magnet holds it in place. Get PEI coated because that adds the sticking when its hot and releasing when it's cool feature, otherwise I don't know what you'd need to do to print onto spring steel.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2021 10:44
|
|