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FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
Look I refuse to speak to a human on the phone, but I will stop in since there's some other stuff I can pick up. Since there are like 8 HFs I could reasonably go to I wanted to make sure there wasn't 1 weird trick to finding one in stores. Or maybe using a telephone is the one weird trick!

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tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


FISHMANPET posted:

Really dumb harbor freight question, their tool chests all say "Please visit any store to order for Free Pickup" and nothing about local stock. So I'm assuming that means it's not a stock item, but I can special order it from the store and have it shipped to the store where I'd pick it up, right?

https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/tool-storage/top-chests/26-in-single-bank-top-chest-blue-64430.html

They generally have these things in stock maybe not in your color, you can call the store and see if they have it. Oh I missed the part where you dont wan to talk to humans, so yeah just go to a few of them.. they're generally in stock at the store.

tater_salad fucked around with this message at 13:04 on Aug 27, 2021

hypnophant
Oct 19, 2012

Arsenic Lupin posted:

If you were buying a set of drill bits for household chores, no precision required, durability a plus, which brand would you buy?

I got this ryobi set and it’s been pretty good for household chores - in particular it’s got some useful less-common bits like a countersink bit, small hole saws, and a center punch, plus a nice assortment of drive bits and both black oxide and masonry drill bits, all for :10bux::10bux::10bux:

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

hypnophant posted:

I got this ryobi set and it’s been pretty good for household chores - in particular it’s got some useful less-common bits like a countersink bit, small hole saws, and a center punch, plus a nice assortment of drive bits and both black oxide and masonry drill bits, all for :10bux::10bux::10bux:

I too buy Ryobi bits, there are very few situations where going more expensive than that has had a meaningful benefit to me.

TV Zombie
Sep 6, 2011

Burying all the trauma from past nights
Burying my anger in the past

B-Nasty posted:

Assuming you mean cordless/battery, I love the Milwaukee version of both. I also have other M18 tools, so being able to use the same batteries is nice, rather than buying into only an outdoor battery system (cough, Ego.)

They usually do a package deal early/Summer, Father's day for around $300 IIRC. Looks like the package is $400 (w/ a 8AH battery) right now at HD.

Yes, cordless/battery. I'm just tired of pulling out the weeds by hand or waiting to ask a neighbor for a favor when the area that needs to be trimmed is small enough.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

FISHMANPET posted:

there are like 8 HFs I could reasonably go to

Oh poo poo you must live in cheap gently caress heaven. How do I get there? Does it involve bondo? I’ll do it.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Miter saw question!

So towards the end of September I'm having all my flooring redone. The laminate on the first floor, AND the carpeting on the second floor. All of it! :toot: But what this means is that I'm going to re-do all of our baseboard trim, since it's done extremely poorly, and the flooring installers said that taking it up before they install would be better for future work(and also a bit cheaper on my part). So, I figure I might as well replace all of it cause WOW my POs did this poo poo crosseyed, must've flipped a coin for every measurement to see whether it'd be in metric or imperial, and hadn't worked the work "caulk" into their vocabulary yet. This means that a miter saw will be very much needed.

So my question is, uh, what's a good miter saw for this job? I can see it being used in the future to cut wood to build a chicken coop, cut more molding(chair rail and crown molding), and... I think that's probably it? I've been looking at Ryobi saws cause they're generally the cheapest(and I'm already all-in on team neon green for power tools), but I really don't know what features I should be looking for in a saw. A 10" model seems like it'd be able to do the baseboard handily enough, but is that too small for a future chicken coop project? I remember seeing people upthread awhiiiiiile ago saying that LED lasers aren't necessary, what about a sliding saw? Or sliding versus compound sliding? :psyduck: All I know is I don't really care about a cordless saw, since that jacks the price up significantly and mine will definitely just be.. hanging out in my garage/work area.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Johnny Truant posted:

Miter saw question!

So towards the end of September I'm having all my flooring redone. The laminate on the first floor, AND the carpeting on the second floor. All of it! :toot: But what this means is that I'm going to re-do all of our baseboard trim, since it's done extremely poorly, and the flooring installers said that taking it up before they install would be better for future work(and also a bit cheaper on my part). So, I figure I might as well replace all of it cause WOW my POs did this poo poo crosseyed, must've flipped a coin for every measurement to see whether it'd be in metric or imperial, and hadn't worked the work "caulk" into their vocabulary yet. This means that a miter saw will be very much needed.

So my question is, uh, what's a good miter saw for this job? I can see it being used in the future to cut wood to build a chicken coop, cut more molding(chair rail and crown molding), and... I think that's probably it? I've been looking at Ryobi saws cause they're generally the cheapest(and I'm already all-in on team neon green for power tools), but I really don't know what features I should be looking for in a saw. A 10" model seems like it'd be able to do the baseboard handily enough, but is that too small for a future chicken coop project? I remember seeing people upthread awhiiiiiile ago saying that LED lasers aren't necessary, what about a sliding saw? Or sliding versus compound sliding? :psyduck: All I know is I don't really care about a cordless saw, since that jacks the price up significantly and mine will definitely just be.. hanging out in my garage/work area.

A 10" is fine for this kind of use and probably for chicken coop. I have a big compound sliding DeWalt miter saw and it was way overkill for building a primarily 2x4 based chicken coop build.

The big sliding miter saws are handy if you are cutting like 12" wide boards and stuff which unless you are doing a lot of woodworking and custom furniture / cabinet building it's probably not mandatory. For 2x4, 4x4, 2x6 based stuff you don't need much special.

If it were me I would check what I could get used on craigslist / FB marketplace 1st and go from there.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Johnny Truant posted:

Miter saw question!

So towards the end of September I'm having all my flooring redone. The laminate on the first floor, AND the carpeting on the second floor. All of it! :toot: But what this means is that I'm going to re-do all of our baseboard trim, since it's done extremely poorly, and the flooring installers said that taking it up before they install would be better for future work(and also a bit cheaper on my part). So, I figure I might as well replace all of it cause WOW my POs did this poo poo crosseyed, must've flipped a coin for every measurement to see whether it'd be in metric or imperial, and hadn't worked the work "caulk" into their vocabulary yet. This means that a miter saw will be very much needed.

So my question is, uh, what's a good miter saw for this job? I can see it being used in the future to cut wood to build a chicken coop, cut more molding(chair rail and crown molding), and... I think that's probably it? I've been looking at Ryobi saws cause they're generally the cheapest(and I'm already all-in on team neon green for power tools), but I really don't know what features I should be looking for in a saw. A 10" model seems like it'd be able to do the baseboard handily enough, but is that too small for a future chicken coop project? I remember seeing people upthread awhiiiiiile ago saying that LED lasers aren't necessary, what about a sliding saw? Or sliding versus compound sliding? :psyduck: All I know is I don't really care about a cordless saw, since that jacks the price up significantly and mine will definitely just be.. hanging out in my garage/work area.

The Metabo HPT saws are well-regarded, and reasonably priced. I have the 10" single bevel, which is available for around $130. The dual bevel makes planning the cut a little simpler, because you never have to flip a piece to get the correct angle.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



I need to shape some 4x4 pieces for the feet of a trestle table I'm making. Should I find someone with a bandsaw or just try to yolo it with a hand saw? my circular saw isn't thicc enough, but i did use it to shape the 2x4 cleats

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
it’s probably time to call it quits for the day when your random orbital sander decides to disintegrate the pad, draws blood on the ricochet, and then flings it ten feet.

El Jebus
Jun 18, 2008

This avatar is paid for by "Avatars for improving Lowtax's spine by any means that doesn't result in him becoming brain dead by putting his brain into a cyborg body and/or putting him in a exosuit due to fears of the suit being hacked and crushing him during a cyberpunk future timeline" Foundation

Johnny Truant posted:

Miter saw question!

So towards the end of September I'm having all my flooring redone. The laminate on the first floor, AND the carpeting on the second floor. All of it! :toot: But what this means is that I'm going to re-do all of our baseboard trim, since it's done extremely poorly, and the flooring installers said that taking it up before they install would be better for future work(and also a bit cheaper on my part). So, I figure I might as well replace all of it cause WOW my POs did this poo poo crosseyed, must've flipped a coin for every measurement to see whether it'd be in metric or imperial, and hadn't worked the work "caulk" into their vocabulary yet. This means that a miter saw will be very much needed.

So my question is, uh, what's a good miter saw for this job? I can see it being used in the future to cut wood to build a chicken coop, cut more molding(chair rail and crown molding), and... I think that's probably it? I've been looking at Ryobi saws cause they're generally the cheapest(and I'm already all-in on team neon green for power tools), but I really don't know what features I should be looking for in a saw. A 10" model seems like it'd be able to do the baseboard handily enough, but is that too small for a future chicken coop project? I remember seeing people upthread awhiiiiiile ago saying that LED lasers aren't necessary, what about a sliding saw? Or sliding versus compound sliding? :psyduck: All I know is I don't really care about a cordless saw, since that jacks the price up significantly and mine will definitely just be.. hanging out in my garage/work area.

I use mine for similarly basic jobs and I got my ryobi for around $50 and then I bought a good blade for the task I was using it for. I've been happy, but if I used it more frequently or for more accurate tasks I would likely want to upgrade to a better sliding version.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

The Slack Lagoon posted:

I need to shape some 4x4 pieces for the feet of a trestle table I'm making. Should I find someone with a bandsaw or just try to yolo it with a hand saw? my circular saw isn't thicc enough, but i did use it to shape the 2x4 cleats

I mean, if you know someone with a bandsaw, use it. If not just take a coper to it. It'll take a while but should do the job.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Anyone have any thoughts on an Enco 40005 floor model drill press? There's one for sale near me that looks like it's in pretty good shape and is up for $150. I'm mostly interested in it for woodworking, not metalworking, so I'm not sure I need it for the absolute slowest speeds.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
$150 for a standing drill press?

Uh buy it. NOW NOW NOW.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
It might just be the same import as the older chicago electrics from Harbor Freight. Looks kind of similar?

edit: Heres the marketplace link https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/293720339185761/

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

Danhenge posted:

It might just be the same import as the chicago electrics from Harbor Freight. Looks kind of similar?

Are you thinking the Central Machinery one? That's still a dang good price and if you're only using it for wood it'll last for like the next 50 years.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
I still see people hocking their old CM benchtop drill presses after years of work time on them.

E: realized you said it's the Chicago electric. Not too sure about those but if they're of comparable quality to the CM then I'm still in camp Go-for-it.

Literally A Person fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Aug 30, 2021

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Literally A Person posted:

I mean, if you know someone with a bandsaw, use it. If not just take a coper to it. It'll take a while but should do the job.

That seems really arduous. What about a bow saw?

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

Mr. Mambold posted:

That seems really arduous. What about a bow saw?

Oh yeah. Whatever handsaw will do the fastest and closest work, my goon. My coper is just what is always at hand on my bench....

Before I got my bandsaw :getin:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Thanks for the miter saw tips, y'all. Any thoughts on sliding/compound/compound sliding?

I don't think I'll need the additional double bevel, but I dunno what the pros/cons of the sliding or compound features are.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Johnny Truant posted:

Thanks for the miter saw tips, y'all. Any thoughts on sliding/compound/compound sliding?

I don't think I'll need the additional double bevel, but I dunno what the pros/cons of the sliding or compound features are.

Compound means you can both tilt the head (roll) to make bevel cuts and turn the head (yaw) to make miter cuts. For complex molding jobs that can be useful, but I've never had to make a compound cut myself. The sliding feature means you can cut significantly wider boards, but the sliding rails stick out the back on all but the most expensive models, so it takes up more space.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I have a compound sliding saw and I almost never use the head tilt function. I've done compound cuts before but I usually do two mitre cuts.

One advantage is sometimes your workpiece is too tall to do a mitre cut on it and you can get the same effect with a laid down bevel cut, but I think I've only had to do that once.

The sliding function has been critical for me on a 10" saw. I've had to slide cut almost all the things I've cut on it (because it's usually slim planks). 2x3" boards and smaller are the only things I've cut that didn't need the slide.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Literally A Person posted:

I still see people hocking their old CM benchtop drill presses after years of work time on them.

E: realized you said it's the Chicago electric. Not too sure about those but if they're of comparable quality to the CM then I'm still in camp Go-for-it.

Well, it sold within six hours so I guess it was a good deal. I couldn't have gotten out there today anyway.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

more falafel please posted:

The sliding feature means you can cut significantly wider boards, but the sliding rails stick out the back on all but the most expensive models, so it takes up more space.

The price on zero-rear-clearance is starting to come down. Metabo's 10" slider has zero rear clearance (it's why I bought it) and it's $350. DeWalt's regular 10" slider is like $500, the same price as the Delta with the robot arms.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

Danhenge posted:

Well, it sold within six hours so I guess it was a good deal. I couldn't have gotten out there today anyway.

I mean, to be fair where I live that price on that machine would have been lucky to make it an hour. Better luck next time.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

devmd01 posted:

it’s probably time to call it quits for the day when your random orbital sander decides to disintegrate the pad, draws blood on the ricochet, and then flings it ten feet.



Guessing you know this, but those pads are consumables. You can probably get a replacement for $20 or so.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
Doing baseboards in my house with a 10" Ryobi slider was so much easier than using the 10" non-sliding Hitachi. This was because I was cutting 4 1/2" baseboards though, so I needed the slide unless I wanted to flip the piece over and try to match the cut (NOT FUN).

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Amazing, thanks for all the info y'all! I didn't even know that mitre and bevel were different types of cut! :derp:

I think I'm leaning towards something like this sucker. It comes with a stand too, for very little additional cheddar, so I think it's a pretty good deal.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I have that stand and it works fine, but it is pretty heavy and mildly cumbersome to set up. Also the angle to screw in the bolts to hold the saw are at kind of a weird angle.

Something like the DeWalt wheel stand is much nicer, although perhaps a lot more expensive

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

deimos posted:

Guessing you know this, but those pads are consumables. You can probably get a replacement for $20 or so.

Yup, it’s already on the way! In the meantime I have a harbor freight spare to use.

Rufio
Feb 6, 2003

I'm smart! Not like everybody says... like dumb... I'm smart and I want respect!

Johnny Truant posted:

Amazing, thanks for all the info y'all! I didn't even know that mitre and bevel were different types of cut! :derp:

I think I'm leaning towards something like this sucker. It comes with a stand too, for very little additional cheddar, so I think it's a pretty good deal.

I have this exact setup and it's serviceable but not great.

The stand kinda sucks. It's heavy and awkward to move around. Also the set screws (or more specifically the threads in the tubing) that hold up the workpiece wings are awful and will fail.

The saw itself is fine as long as you understand that because of the slider it isn't particularly compact. You can't set it all the way against a wall.

For the price though, it's hard to beat.

I think I'm gonna save up some dough for a 12" zero clearance slider. Bosch makes a great looking one but it's like $800. The Delta also looks pretty sweet.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

canyoneer posted:

Doing baseboards in my house with a 10" Ryobi slider was so much easier than using the 10" non-sliding Hitachi. This was because I was cutting 4 1/2" baseboards though, so I needed the slide unless I wanted to flip the piece over and try to match the cut (NOT FUN).

Weird, I can cut 2x6 on my 10" non-sliding Ryobi (at 90, not at 45).

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Danhenge posted:

I have that stand and it works fine, but it is pretty heavy and mildly cumbersome to set up. Also the angle to screw in the bolts to hold the saw are at kind of a weird angle.

Something like the DeWalt wheel stand is much nicer, although perhaps a lot more expensive

Rufio posted:

I have this exact setup and it's serviceable but not great.

The stand kinda sucks. It's heavy and awkward to move around. Also the set screws (or more specifically the threads in the tubing) that hold up the workpiece wings are awful and will fail.

The saw itself is fine as long as you understand that because of the slider it isn't particularly compact. You can't set it all the way against a wall.

For the price though, it's hard to beat.

I think I'm gonna save up some dough for a 12" zero clearance slider. Bosch makes a great looking one but it's like $800. The Delta also looks pretty sweet.

Awesome, thanks for the info! Maybe I'll look into a separate stand, I remember seeing a Husky foldable workbench that seemed decent food around a bill.

I'm not too worried about the saw clearance I don't think, it'll probably stay stored around my (future) workbench and then get set up right in the middle of my garage when I'm going at it. I think the price difference between sliding and non-sliding was pretty negligible, but I'll look into that as well.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Johnny Truant posted:

Awesome, thanks for the info! Maybe I'll look into a separate stand, I remember seeing a Husky foldable workbench that seemed decent food around a bill.

I'm not too worried about the saw clearance I don't think, it'll probably stay stored around my (future) workbench and then get set up right in the middle of my garage when I'm going at it. I think the price difference between sliding and non-sliding was pretty negligible, but I'll look into that as well.

This Ridgid stand is on sale:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...UkBThlQdQxi0WY0

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Milwaukee should make an M12 hair clipper.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




I have the Delta (not) slider and it’s straight up the best miter saw I’ve ever used. Has an led blade shadow instead of a laser, tilts and bevels smooth and accurate, real comfortable, looks cool, dust collection ain’t great but that comes with the territory

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Platystemon posted:

Milwaukee should make an M12 hair clipper.

About once a week I scream into the ether that no-one makes a cordless kitchen hand mixer. Ryobi for preference but I'd buy whoever does it first.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?

cakesmith handyman posted:

About once a week I scream into the ether that no-one makes a cordless kitchen hand mixer. Ryobi for preference but I'd buy whoever does it first.

Like this?: https://www.amazon.com/KitchenAid-KHMB732BM-Cordless-Mixer-Speed/dp/B08BQYPBGW?th=1

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Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008





Aw dip. I'm not gonna be getting the saw till early October, late September at the earliest, but I'll keep an eye on this sucker

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