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Thanks for the replies! The amount of resistance I'm getting makes me think it's probably lath/a stud. I may just need to widen the hole a bit with a larger drill bit, as soon as I can find one (it's probably in a box someplace). My real question is: what should I do about the piece of the anchor that's in the hole now? Just drill through it and replace it with a second anchor?
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 15:14 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 10:53 |
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Yeah
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 15:20 |
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Cool, I was hoping that was all I'd need to do. Thanks for the insight! Hopefully I won't end up giving myself several additional holes finishing this project, wish me luck.
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 15:48 |
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The only catch I can see if you're using drywall anchors is that you might need longer ones, depending on how thick the lath & plaster is.
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 16:51 |
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actionjackson posted:edit: I think I figured out how to move up the rubber gasket easily side question, can teflon tape be used on that thread? I read that could help with any water leakage where the rubber gasket is.
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 17:00 |
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actionjackson posted:side question, can teflon tape be used on that thread? Yep.
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 17:13 |
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actionjackson posted:side question, can teflon tape be used on that thread? I read that could help with any water leakage where the rubber gasket is. It may be because I'm a moron and bad at plumbing, but I think I have always wound up using plumber's putty around those gaskets too.
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 17:35 |
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thanks, does it matter whether I apply it clockwise vs. counterclockwise? will the teflon tape affect that ability of that metal piece below it (that holds the gasket in place up against the sink bottom) to thread properly? Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It may be because I'm a moron and bad at plumbing, but I think I have always wound up using plumber's putty around those gaskets too. In the video I watched, he mentions this at the end, and Oatey (company that makes putty) said you should not use it with rubber gaskets https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTmUO-0ELps&t=885s (timestamped) actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Aug 27, 2021 |
# ? Aug 27, 2021 18:02 |
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actionjackson posted:thanks, does it matter whether I apply it clockwise vs. counterclockwise? will the teflon tape affect that ability of that metal piece below it (that holds the gasket in place up against the sink bottom) to thread properly? You should apply teflon tape such that the 'free' end (the end you tear off last and is exposed on the outside of the wrap) isn't bunched up/pushed off the male thread when you tighten the joint - if that makes sense. The female threads should drag or pull the free end and if anything tighten it up slightly. So, in the case of a standard right hand thread, you should put the tape on in a clockwise motion.
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 18:30 |
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ROJO posted:You should apply teflon tape such that the 'free' end (the end you tear off last and is exposed on the outside of the wrap) isn't bunched up/pushed off the male thread when you tighten the joint - if that makes sense. The female threads should drag or pull the free end and if anything tighten it up slightly. So, in the case of a standard right hand thread, you should put the tape on in a clockwise motion. is how I have it labeled here accurate? going clockwise on the threading where the bottom arrow is then going clockwise on the threading for the top (or should this be counterclockwise since I'm threading from below?) and then putty all around the bottom of the top part
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 18:57 |
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Last weekend, I drained and flushed our water heater, and at some point in the last few days, it's started putting out substantially hotter water than it was before I flushed it. The heater is only about a year old, there wasn't much sediment when I drained it, and I never touched the thermostat, so I'm confused as to why it randomly started putting out scalding water, especially since I know I never touched the thermostat.
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 23:03 |
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I did that teflon tape on the threading, and did a ton of putty on the upper part. Here's a video. I've tightened it as much as I can by hand - can I use a channel locks on this thing or will that damage it? https://i.imgur.com/tTi4X39.mp4
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# ? Aug 28, 2021 01:38 |
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actionjackson posted:I did that teflon tape on the threading, and did a ton of putty on the upper part. Here's a video. I've tightened it as much as I can by hand - can I use a channel locks on this thing or will that damage it? If the parts are metal you can crank on them a bit with some channel locks. But not too much. If plastic, then you can still use channel locks but be very gentle.
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# ? Aug 28, 2021 02:14 |
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thanks! that seemed to work. i also had a very tiny leak with that cylinder piece that threads in right below where the drain rod comes out, but some more teflon tape resolved that.
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# ? Aug 28, 2021 02:51 |
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actionjackson posted:thanks! that seemed to work. i also had a very tiny leak with that cylinder piece that threads in right below where the drain rod comes out, but some more teflon tape resolved that. Glad to help. If I were you I'd keep an eye on it for a few weeks just to make sure. I don't do much plumbing but when I do I'm kinda paranoid because water damage can be so bad.
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# ? Aug 28, 2021 02:54 |
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Stupid question about water supply shut off valves... I'm installing an icemaker and need to replace the shutoff valve with a 2 way split but all I'm seeing are the globe valve style. Does a split quarter turn valve shutoff even exist, or is this just me overthinking something that just really doesn't matter? Had a lot of problems with stuck or leaky globe valve shutoffs when I moved in, and replaced everything with quarter turns then. I just hate the idea of switching back is all
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# ? Aug 28, 2021 03:08 |
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Glad to help. If I were you I'd keep an eye on it for a few weeks just to make sure. I don't do much plumbing but when I do I'm kinda paranoid because water damage can be so bad. yep, I always put a bucket underneath for a least a week after. very glad this is all finished.
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# ? Aug 28, 2021 03:45 |
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Very nice. I hope there are 6 different passports, all with different aliases and nations but your picture, $100,000 in cash in various denominations, and a burner phone stashed behind that picture.
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# ? Aug 28, 2021 03:54 |
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OSU_Matthew posted:Stupid question about water supply shut off valves... I'm installing an icemaker and need to replace the shutoff valve with a 2 way split but all I'm seeing are the globe valve style. Does a split quarter turn valve shutoff even exist, or is this just me overthinking something that just really doesn't matter? Check in with the plumbing thread for an expert answer. Quarter turn stops rotate 90 degrees which means there are few configurations where a single stop can turn off two outlets which are typically set 90 degrees apart. Maybe you could set them at 45 degree angles or something... just pointing out that generally the type of stop you are looking for doesn't lend itself to multiple outlets due to the limited rotation. There are some with two stops in one valve body, like this one: https://www.brasscraft.com/product/g2ps1901dv/ If you want to stick with quarter turn units without ordering something esoteric, just put a t-junction on and two valves. That way it's serviceable in the future using your local hardware store.
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# ? Aug 28, 2021 14:05 |
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mutata posted:Very nice. I hope there are 6 different passports, all with different aliases and nations but your picture, $100,000 in cash in various denominations, and a burner phone stashed behind that picture. thanks! and yes of course, I mean no... I will be paranoid about that mirror somehow falling off forever, despite being held by two anchors which hold 4x it's weight who changed my avatar
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# ? Aug 28, 2021 16:10 |
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Tezer posted:Check in with the plumbing thread for an expert answer. Thanks! Those are both really good ideas... I was actually planning on cutting an inch or so off the supply line stub to remove an old saddle valve, so that might be perfect if I'm already planning on soldering something in there.
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# ? Aug 28, 2021 19:48 |
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azflyboy posted:Last weekend, I drained and flushed our water heater, and at some point in the last few days, it's started putting out substantially hotter water than it was before I flushed it. When you shut off the water above your water heater, which knob did you turn? Do you have a thermostatic mixing valve that you turned the knob of instead of the shut off valve?
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# ? Aug 28, 2021 23:15 |
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I'm trying to put up a makeup mirror in my bathroom. The mirror is attached by a mounting plate. The bathroom wall is covered in beadboard, some sort of composite, and I don't know what's under it. I drilled a lot of pilot holes, but I cannot drive 1" screws to their full depth. Mounting plate Holes in one wall Holes in a different wall I think I'm going to have to go with glue or some sort of adhesive. The plate is 3 1/2" long, so there's enough surface area to make a firm bond with the wall. The mirror itself weighs 4 pounds. What would goons recommend?
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# ? Aug 29, 2021 20:44 |
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I'm trying to put up a makeup mirror in my bathroom. The mirror is attached by a mounting plate. The bathroom wall is covered in beadboard, some sort of composite, and I don't know what's under it. I drilled a lot of pilot holes, but I cannot drive 1" screws to their full depth. Polymer builder's adhesive is pretty good. I like this stuff, which I'm assuming you don't have locally, but something like it will do just fine: https://www.toolstation.com/multi-stick-grab-adhesive-solvent-free/p38941 If the plate is heavy you'll want to hold or prop it while it initially sets, but it can otherwise grab quite well instantly.
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# ? Aug 29, 2021 22:02 |
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I want to set up an above ground sprinkler system for my lawn in the flower bed in the front of the house. What material should I use to set up the lines that will connect the sprinklers? PVC? 1/2"? Regular water hose? I've seen all three being used, and I'm not sure what the advantages and disadvantages are.
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# ? Aug 30, 2021 15:44 |
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Bioshuffle posted:I want to set up an above ground sprinkler system for my lawn in the flower bed in the front of the house. What material should I use to set up the lines that will connect the sprinklers? PVC? 1/2"? Regular water hose? I've seen all three being used, and I'm not sure what the advantages and disadvantages are. How are you getting water from the house to the sprinklers, a garden hose? Regular sch40 3/4" or 1/2" PVC pipe with a hose thread attachment would do just fine. You could look into a drip system too which would make assembly easier and more flexible.
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# ? Aug 30, 2021 15:59 |
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I set up a drip system for our front garden this year. It was dead simple and super affordable. Would recommend. There's tons of YouTube guides on how to get started with one.
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# ? Aug 30, 2021 16:16 |
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I've got a chunk of my concrete driveway that cracked and sunk. It's been like this for about 6-7 years, very slowly getting a little worse over time. We've had a hell of a time trying to get a contractor to even take a look at it, which I partially get because it's such a small job. Is this fairly easily DIY-able? My guess was to get the piece out somehow — digging it out, or using a car jack maybe? — then filling underneath with sand to get it level, then using QuickCrete on the top and sides to adhere it back to the main slab. Either that, or break the piece up and remove it and pour a new section. Is that at all close?
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# ? Aug 30, 2021 16:24 |
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It looks like my A/C unit is not still warrantied and they wanted $1600 to replace my blower motor and they don't even have the part. Yeah I'll just do that myself.
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# ? Aug 30, 2021 18:15 |
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dakana posted:I've got a chunk of my concrete driveway that cracked and sunk. It's been like this for about 6-7 years, very slowly getting a little worse over time. We've had a hell of a time trying to get a contractor to even take a look at it, which I partially get because it's such a small job. Search 'mudjacking' in your local area. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete_leveling If you can't find a contractor - ya, pull the piece and then lay it back as if it was a paver (sand base, etc. like you talked about).
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# ? Aug 30, 2021 19:06 |
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dakana posted:I've got a chunk of my concrete driveway that cracked and sunk. It's been like this for about 6-7 years, very slowly getting a little worse over time. We've had a hell of a time trying to get a contractor to even take a look at it, which I partially get because it's such a small job. You shouldn't need a car jack for that, leverage is your friend, so some form of wrecking bar to get it lifted to the point where you can drag it out.
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# ? Aug 30, 2021 19:46 |
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Tezer posted:Search 'mudjacking' in your local area. Mudjacking/compaction grouting is expensive and won't be worth paying their minimum daily rate for 6 square feet of concrete. That concrete piece looks like it's been undermined. I'd try to figure out what caused that problem (next to a slope? Irrigation line under there leaking?) and address that when replacing it. It'll be hard to find a GC or even concrete contractor for such a small job. You might have better luck with a day laborer or handy man who is confident with their concrete finishing skills.
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# ? Aug 30, 2021 20:44 |
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My back patio is a huge (like 18" probably) thick piece of concrete but it also has a gap underneath it like that. I think it is just from drainage/slope. Water comes off of the roof and pools a little and carries off a little dirt every time it rains. Should I be doing anything to help this? Maybe backfilling with something? Or planting plants to help prevent the erosion?
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# ? Aug 30, 2021 20:48 |
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Corla Plankun posted:My back patio is a huge (like 18" probably) thick piece of concrete but it also has a gap underneath it like that. I think it is just from drainage/slope. Water comes off of the roof and pools a little and carries off a little dirt every time it rains. Yes, or it will probably eventually break once it's made its way far enough. I had to break up a (thinner than yours) slab recently and digging it out from underneath then hitting it with a hammer was how I did it.
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# ? Aug 30, 2021 21:08 |
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How low can a branch circuit voltage go before it starts putting motors/etc at risk of damage from brownout? I have a dehumidifier, two chest freezers, and my PC setup on a branch circuit and under load it drops to about 114V, which is getting low enough that I'm thinking about installing a proper circuit for my PC setup. The info online seems to say "start worrying at 5% and 10% you need to do something about it" but I don't want to burn out my freezers by pushing it too far. I'll keep an eye on how it changes with my own AC and other loads as well, but it's also possible I'm just getting lovely power from the grid to begin with. The grid is really overloaded here during summer, and I get noticeably better voltage in the middle of the night when presumably the feed to the house is better (but that also would be when my own AC is running less as well). edit: my power is 2v better (116v) during off-peak hours Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Aug 31, 2021 |
# ? Aug 31, 2021 01:02 |
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Is that a 15A circuit? I’d be worried about that many loads of that size on one circuit. You shouldn’t exceed 80% sustained load. Probably worth adding a circuit in any case.
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# ? Aug 31, 2021 13:12 |
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Paul MaudDib posted:How low can a branch circuit voltage go before it starts putting motors/etc at risk of damage from brownout? If you're going to install a new circuit I would run a 20a to your chest freezers not your computer. Either way a second circuit would help you as long as you divide up the loads. What are the plate ratings on the three non computer loads? Got a kill-a-watt or clamp to meter the computer? There are voltage drop calculators out there. If you are hitting actual distance limits you can up size the conductor. 114v on peak is just "Tuesday" for me. But that's sce for you. Check out the voltage elsewhere in the house and see how it matches.
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# ? Aug 31, 2021 14:43 |
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Does anybody have any advice on repairing a crack in an acrylic bathtub? My wife fell in the tub and landed on her knee, and we just discovered a crack that appears to go all the way through. I've found these instructions, which make sense to me, but then I found this question on StackExchange which seems to say that the advice given in that first link is wrong. I don't mind using fiberglass, but I've never done it before and it seems like it'd be difficult to get it even with the rest of the tub since it's just a hairline crack. Lowe's has a repair kit, but that's apparently meant for cosmetic fixes and not a crack like this. Basically, I'm overwhelmed with information and don't know who to listen to, so I'm turning to strangers on the internet.
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# ? Sep 1, 2021 04:21 |
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The Human Cow posted:Does anybody have any advice on repairing a crack in an acrylic bathtub? FWIW this seems like something that takes a lot of practice to get right, and I’d definitely pay a pro to do it so it’s right and looks good. I worked for an RV shop for a few years, and we had a mobile company that did this for us. The trailer manufacturers didn’t like replacing the showers and tubs if there were cracks due the amount of labour required, and the repairs were invisible. A local shop might be a reference source if you can’t find one by other means.
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# ? Sep 1, 2021 12:43 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 10:53 |
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Quick question for sourcing a part I need: Does anyone have any clue what the type of cable / cable head would be called and where to get some? Might be a bit hard to tell but there are three pins inside the head. I need them to finish a project at work to automate my ATC tower's Air Terminal Information System system; we have two JB-IIIs and they're frustrating dog-poo poo. They're supposed to be in a primary / backup configuration but since they don't actually alarm and only hard-lock the hand over from primary to backup doesn't work, and so we have them both set as masters with a complex set of relays set up to deal with switching the two masters to our four ATIS radios. Its a loving mess. The arduino is programed to watch the relays and know when one of the JB-IIIs hardlock, then power cycle it. Since I'm not going to risk our only two power cables on this project, I was given these things by a wise grognard from Google but basically the day after I got them the plastic shielding cracked and fell apart. I've been hunting for a replacements but I've had no luck so far. Figured someone here might know.
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# ? Sep 1, 2021 15:32 |