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Might be "DIN connectors", which come in a variety of configurations https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_connector 
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Sep 1, 2021 15:48
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Could also be an XLR, but yeah, something in the DIN-type family like Paul said.
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Sep 1, 2021 18:53
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Almost looks like a PS/2 connector but those have 6 pins - 3 of them are for a mouse, 3 are for a keyboard. That pin configuration looks almost like a hybrid version of such. Do you have a picture of the female part of that connector? Might help. The closest result I can find thus far is an IP68 connector.
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Sep 1, 2021 19:47
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PS/2, ADB, and S-Video are all in a class of connectors usually called "mini-DIN". The results I get when I search "3-pin mini DIN" look an awful lot like your photo, too. e: e.g. Kycon KPPX-3P Stack Machine fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Sep 1, 2021 |
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Sep 1, 2021 19:58
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I'm looking to install a dimmer switch in the basement of the house I just bought. I'd like it to be the same style as the type of dimmer on the middle switch here: The only dimmers I've seen at Lowe's/Home Depot have been the wide, single-slider type but I'd like the on/off switch to remain separate and the small dimmer slider on the side. The only difference is that the switch I'm looking to upgrade has two switches, not three, with the light I'm looking to dim on the right switch. Does this type of dimmer have a specific name, and is there any kind of specialty place I should look to get one?
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Sep 1, 2021 20:51
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The Midniter posted:I'm looking to install a dimmer switch in the basement of the house I just bought. I'd like it to be the same style as the type of dimmer on the middle switch here: Those types of switches are called toggle switches. Dimmer toggles are still fairly common, Lutron sells one at both Home Depot and Lowe's https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-...PH-WH/202746671 This one says it will fit in a standard wall plate. If you're getting something from Amazon or elsewhere double check that they don't need special plates. FCKGW fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Sep 1, 2021 |
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Sep 1, 2021 21:08
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Hello everyone, I'm re-running my own 10/2 cable for an external AC disconnect box. The location of the disconnect box is such that it would be easier to run the cable external to the house from the attic to the box through an access in the eaves. My question is: can I run the cable through some conduit and call it good? So in other words the 10/2 cable will run from the electrical box to the attic, from the attic out to the ac disconnect box via a conduit (is this normal?), and then out of the box via THHN wire to the AC unit. All in all the solid strand 10/2 cable will be about 75 ft (generously) in length. The red line is what I'm concerned about and can't find good info on. Thanks! (Black square is wall, yellow is window) a forbidden love fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Sep 1, 2021 |
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Sep 1, 2021 21:11
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I replaced my old doorbell chime with a new one. The chime is just a mechanical 16v chime with plungers. Two chimes for front door, one chime for back. I have it wired up for front door but I only get one chime when I push the button. When pushing the button I only observe one plunger moving. When I wire it up for back door the plunger that was not moving gives me a little half movement but doesn't actually strike the chime. The door bell button itself is pretty old but seems to work. What's going on? Defective chime?
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Sep 1, 2021 21:30
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a forbidden love posted:Hello everyone, I'm re-running my own 10/2 cable for an external AC disconnect box. The location of the disconnect box is such that it would be easier to run the cable external to the house from the attic to the box through an access in the eaves. My question is: can I run the cable through some conduit and call it good? If anyone is curious to the solution: run the internal (attic or basement) 10/2 cable into a junction box. From the JB run conduit and 10 gauge THHN cable to the AC junction box. From the AC JB run the conduit and cabling as you normally would. Check local code before you do anything of course!
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Sep 2, 2021 02:17
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The Midniter posted:I'm looking to install a dimmer switch in the basement of the house I just bought. I'd like it to be the same style as the type of dimmer on the middle switch here: Take the faceplate off. If you're lucky, then the maker will be printed on the the front of the frame. If it's not there, then it will be on the back. You will want to turn off the power first if you need to take it out of the box to ID it. Knowing the maker will narrow down the search a lot.
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Sep 2, 2021 02:56
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Any bullet-proof sump pump recommendations? Mine is over 7 years old. Last night the switch failed to on. I got it working again but it made me realize I’m going to need to replace it soon. It’s currently going off every 7-10 seconds, we got smacked by that tropical storm last night. I’ve got a lot of ground water near me so it runs a lot, so I need something pretty heavy duty.
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Sep 2, 2021 13:29
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AFewBricksShy posted:Any bullet-proof sump pump recommendations? Yeah that storm was nuts. My sump pump worked fine the entire time but there was so much water it couldn't fill the sump fast enough and it started to come through my floor. I know I need french drains (the previous owner installed the sump pump in the basement but no french drain so water just seems in through holes in the bottom). But until I get a basement guy in, I guess for a few days I just have to keep up with the wet vac on the puddles and after a couple days hope the water table goes down?
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Sep 2, 2021 16:26
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I replaced my old doorbell chime with a new one. The chime is just a mechanical 16v chime with plungers. Two chimes for front door, one chime for back. I have it wired up for front door but I only get one chime when I push the button. When pushing the button I only observe one plunger moving. When I wire it up for back door the plunger that was not moving gives me a little half movement but doesn't actually strike the chime. The door bell button itself is pretty old but seems to work. What's going on? Defective chime? Each plunger is for either the front or back respectively. I'm not an electrician, but when current from your transformer travels to the front terminal/magnet in the chime, it's going to attract the thing one way to "ding" and then the spring should send it back the other way to "dong" after it's done. I think the back chime is just a less powerful magnet? I think that if you don't have a "dong", then I think it's something out of whack with the amount of current. I would check current and voltage in the chime box on a multimeter and see what's up with your transformer.
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Sep 2, 2021 20:10
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spacebard posted:Each plunger is for either the front or back respectively. I'm not an electrician, but when current from your transformer travels to the front terminal/magnet in the chime, it's going to attract the thing one way to "ding" and then the spring should send it back the other way to "dong" after it's done. I think the back chime is just a less powerful magnet? I asked in the wiring thread a bit ago because I was getting ~14v when using a multimeter at the door bell (I was checking to make sure it wasn't a 12v transformer prior to buying a new chime) and they said it was probably fine. Maybe not fine after all?
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Sep 2, 2021 20:32
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I have some dog damage, just juxtaposed to pics together for the left which is door trim, should I use wood filler here before painting? For the right which is the door, is there anyway to reduce the appearance of these scratches? thank you
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Sep 2, 2021 20:38
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I asked in the wiring thread a bit ago because I was getting ~14v when using a multimeter at the door bell (I was checking to make sure it wasn't a 12v transformer prior to buying a new chime) and they said it was probably fine. Maybe not fine after all? Yeah, that should be okay voltage-wise. But I think the issue is that there isn't enough current to cause the plunger to go down far enough. Is your transformer accessible near the door or by the breaker box, or is it buried in a wall somewhere so you can check it directly?
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Sep 2, 2021 21:36
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I asked in the wiring thread a bit ago because I was getting ~14v when using a multimeter at the door bell (I was checking to make sure it wasn't a 12v transformer prior to buying a new chime) and they said it was probably fine. Maybe not fine after all?
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Sep 2, 2021 22:01
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actionjackson posted:I have some dog damage, just juxtaposed to pics together You could try the wet cloth and iron on the door, those may come out. That trim looks trashed though. Possible to find an exact match and replace it? Trim is easy to put in.
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Sep 2, 2021 22:15
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:You could try the wet cloth and iron on the door, those may come out. That trim looks trashed though. Possible to find an exact match and replace it? Trim is easy to put in. well I was already going to get it repainted because it has some more minor dog damage in another place, so if filler would do the trick that would be preferred. I will also see what the painter has to say as well. I've never heard of the iron thing! actionjackson fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Sep 2, 2021 |
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Sep 2, 2021 22:48
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spacebard posted:Yeah, that should be okay voltage-wise. But I think the issue is that there isn't enough current to cause the plunger to go down far enough. It's in the hall closet near the chime. What should I be checking for? Flipperwaldt posted:No chance of a mix-up where the doorbell expects AC but gets DC or something? Doubtful? The old chime internals looks pretty similar to the new chime. How would I check this? When I used the multimeter I set it to ACV which I assume would have done something different if I'd tried to measure ac voltage and got dc?
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Sep 2, 2021 23:16
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I'm replacing a lever drain with a twist one. I bought a bathtub drain remover tool as well. I got the lever assembly out but I'm having trouble getting the actual drain part out. It seems like there's a plate? I can't get either the tool or long pliers to grab onto it. It's a jacuzzi whirlpool tub but i don't know if that makes a difference.
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Sep 3, 2021 00:24
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Do you have a strong magnet you can stick to it?
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Sep 3, 2021 00:26
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can you get under the sides with a flat head screwdriver at all?
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Sep 3, 2021 00:32
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I don't have a magnet, but i can get one later this evening. The flathead screwdriver reaches but i can't get along the side or make it move by pressing on it.
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Sep 3, 2021 00:46
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If it doesn’t have crossbars for your removal tool to hook onto you might need one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Tub-Drain-Removal-Tool-410-075-0111/311493720 I used one to remove my drain when the crossbars were broken off.
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Sep 3, 2021 02:43
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korora posted:If it doesn’t have crossbars for your removal tool to hook onto you might need one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Tub-Drain-Removal-Tool-410-075-0111/311493720 yeah i also managed to use one of those successfully, somehow
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Sep 3, 2021 04:48
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I replaced my old doorbell chime with a new one. The chime is just a mechanical 16v chime with plungers. Two chimes for front door, one chime for back. I have it wired up for front door but I only get one chime when I push the button. When pushing the button I only observe one plunger moving. When I wire it up for back door the plunger that was not moving gives me a little half movement but doesn't actually strike the chime. The door bell button itself is pretty old but seems to work. What's going on? Defective chime? Have you tried moving the plungers with your fingers? This sounds like maybe the plungers are a little sticky? They have to be able to move freely so if it has any stickiness or, say, dust caught in it, that would be a problem. Might be as simple as moving them around by hand a bit to free it up/redistribute the grease. If it's not (or it doesn't seem sticky) you can test the chime by placing a screwdriver or paperclip or something metal that can touch both terminals at once across the screw terminals (or whatever it has) that connect to the switch. If it sounds when you do this the problem is in the wiring or switch. If it doesn't, you just return the chime unit.
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Sep 3, 2021 04:50
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I know literally nothing about the magic tubes that deliver the water, but my wife has me redoing her bathroom. We have a new vanity top and she wants to reuse the faucet from the old pedestal sink. I dismantled the old sink and have the faucet bits. I noticed that the holes in the old sink where the handles go are much larger than current vanity. A test fit was conducted and they're almost the exact same size as the valve part of handle that goes down into the vanity. I tried to screw it in, which loudly worked, but stopped out of fear of breaking the vanity somehow. They're like the exact same size. Will they fit if I screw them in or will I crack the vanity top? Do I have to convince her to get a new faucet?
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Sep 3, 2021 05:52
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Sash! posted:I know literally nothing about the magic tubes that deliver the water, but my wife has me redoing her bathroom. We have a new vanity top and she wants to reuse the faucet from the old pedestal sink. I dismantled the old sink and have the faucet bits. I noticed that the holes in the old sink where the handles go are much larger than current vanity. A test fit was conducted and they're almost the exact same size as the valve part of handle that goes down into the vanity. I tried to screw it in, which loudly worked, but stopped out of fear of breaking the vanity somehow. You might get away with it or you might crack it. Not sure if anyone has any suggestions for ways to safely widen the holes. Maybe a coarse honing tool of some kind? It sounds like you're very close to clearance size.
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Sep 3, 2021 11:28
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Is there a good board I can use that isn't loving stupid expensive and comes in sheets that I can use to temporarily repair the edges of my porch until I can get the money together to replace the whole thing? I was looking of going from the first or second joist (They did joists perpendicular from the house, then squared those in with more 2x6's). Hopefully have something wide enough to replace a lot of boards at the same time. I'll prepaint it with some sealant if that will even help for a while. The porch is old tongue and groove (pine I think?), and was NOT taken care of before we bought the house, and the ends are finally rotting off, and I want to protect it before it gets even more damaged.
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Sep 3, 2021 22:09
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Gothmog1065 posted:Is there a good board I can use that isn't loving stupid expensive and comes in sheets that I can use to temporarily repair the edges of my porch until I can get the money together to replace the whole thing? I was looking of going from the first or second joist (They did joists perpendicular from the house, then squared those in with more 2x6's). Hopefully have something wide enough to replace a lot of boards at the same time. I'll prepaint it with some sealant if that will even help for a while. Marine ply is afaik the gold standard for outdoor use but it's expensive as hell. Probably OSB/3 is your best bet but it can't be just left out in the rain or it'll eventually turn to mush. You'll want to coat it with something impermeable.
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Sep 3, 2021 22:46
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Jaded Burnout posted:Marine ply is afaik the gold standard for outdoor use but it's expensive as hell. Probably OSB/3 is your best bet but it can't be just left out in the rain or it'll eventually turn to mush. You'll want to coat it with something impermeable. I used some leftover liquid membrane on some scrap Advantech (Holy gently caress the price) replacing the back step where the wood did the same thing. It seems to be holding up, would that be sufficient on something like this?
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Sep 3, 2021 23:15
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Gothmog1065 posted:I used some leftover liquid membrane on some scrap Advantech (Holy gently caress the price) replacing the back step where the wood did the same thing. It seems to be holding up, would that be sufficient on something like this? Seems reasonable to me.
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Sep 3, 2021 23:59
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I'm having a hard time figuring out the best/easiest type of double curtain rod to put over my sliding glass door. The doors take up the entirety of the wall that they are on, there's like a 3ish inch gap to the right which is mostly occupied by a very strangely routed coaxil cable (the way the internet is set up in here was like 40 times weirder than I could have imagined), to the left and top there is like less than one inch of space between the wall and ceiling respectively. It seems like ceiling mounting would be a good idea but there is both an air vent kind of in the way and the ceiling is popcorned which feels like it would make that annoying. The two best choices seem like either mounting them directly on the door frame (I don't like doing it that way but it's how the current ugly 80's vertical blinds are mounted and maybe the most practical) or figuring out a way to mount them to the perpendicular walls instead. I like the latter option but I don't see a lot of curtain stuff available in stores that would have the ability to be hung like that? Is there a specific type I should be looking for?
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Sep 4, 2021 03:14
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Wowporn posted:I'm having a hard time figuring out the best/easiest type of double curtain rod to put over my sliding glass door. The doors take up the entirety of the wall that they are on, there's like a 3ish inch gap to the right which is mostly occupied by a very strangely routed coaxil cable (the way the internet is set up in here was like 40 times weirder than I could have imagined), to the left and top there is like less than one inch of space between the wall and ceiling respectively. It seems like ceiling mounting would be a good idea but there is both an air vent kind of in the way and the ceiling is popcorned which feels like it would make that annoying. The two best choices seem like either mounting them directly on the door frame (I don't like doing it that way but it's how the current ugly 80's vertical blinds are mounted and maybe the most practical) or figuring out a way to mount them to the perpendicular walls instead. I like the latter option but I don't see a lot of curtain stuff available in stores that would have the ability to be hung like that? Is there a specific type I should be looking for? For some reason I am having a hard time visualizing what you need, but I think you have two walls on the sides of the door you would want to mount rods to, would something like this work?
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Sep 4, 2021 03:21
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Jaded Burnout posted:You might get away with it or you might crack it. Not sure if anyone has any suggestions for ways to safely widen the holes. Maybe a coarse honing tool of some kind? It sounds like you're very close to clearance size. Thankfully she thought that the handles and faucet were too close to each other, and we got a new one that fit way better. I was really not interested in cracking that top.
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Sep 4, 2021 14:11
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Gothmog1065 posted:Is there a good board I can use that isn't loving stupid expensive and comes in sheets that I can use to temporarily repair the edges of my porch until I can get the money together to replace the whole thing? I was looking of going from the first or second joist (They did joists perpendicular from the house, then squared those in with more 2x6's). Hopefully have something wide enough to replace a lot of boards at the same time. I'll prepaint it with some sealant if that will even help for a while. Otherwise treated plywood. You need to let it dry for a few weeks before you paint it. If you paint it really really well, regular untreated exterior pine CDX plywood will work okay too for a year or 4, depending on exposure. Marine grade plywood, despite the name, is actually not generally rot-resistant or waterproof. It uses waterproof glues and doesn’t have any voids in it and may have a rot-resistant tropical hardwood face veneer, but usually the internal veneers are a cheaper, non-durable wood that rots relatively easily like okoume or fir. It’s expected that the marine ply will be coated in epoxy/fiberglass/paint/varnish to keep water away from the wood. You can get marine plywood make of rot-resistant wood throughout (sapele is what I have seen most often) but it’s hard to find and like $3-400/sheet.
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Sep 4, 2021 15:21
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The hell kind of trim is this? It goes between laminate and tile, and I'm missing a couple decent chunks with another peeling up because my kids are rough on things and the house is 23 years old. 
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Sep 4, 2021 16:40
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D34THROW posted:The hell kind of trim is this? It goes between laminate and tile, and I'm missing a couple decent chunks with another peeling up because my kids are rough on things and the house is 23 years old. Probably something not a million miles from one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zamma-Lakeshore-Pecan-7-16-in-Thick-x-1-3-4-in-Wide-x-72-in-Length-Laminate-T-Molding-013221654/205320433
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Sep 4, 2021 18:16
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Yeah that's just standard laminate t-molding. Gonna be hard to match exactly that color and pattern since it is likely the same manufacturer as the laminate itself but you local Home Depot should have 50 different grain patterns and shade that you can match as close as you can. I would recommend that if you replace once piece you consider replacing all of the trim. It may look out of place on those corners to have two slightly different patterns, but that's going to depend on how much time and money you want to put into this effort.
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Sep 4, 2021 18:35
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