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Anyone got a recommendation for and/or information about chamfer planes? Although I like the ability to so quickly do edges with a router, the bits feel really expensive.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 00:27 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 20:01 |
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signalnoise posted:Anyone got a recommendation for and/or information about chamfer planes? Although I like the ability to so quickly do edges with a router, the bits feel really expensive. I got a chamfer bit and used it exactly once before realizing that just using a block plane is easier.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 00:29 |
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Today I learned a lesson about the fragility of brass screws, the importance of sizing your pilot hole for brass screws correctly, and that lubricating screw threads was a thing.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 00:58 |
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I've been there, my condolences. One tip I've heard is to drive a steel screw first, then remove it and drive the brass screw.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 01:43 |
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Danhenge posted:Today I learned a lesson about the fragility of brass screws, the importance of sizing your pilot hole for brass screws correctly, and that lubricating screw threads was a thing. I shuddered when I saw that. Our newest higher (a millennial straight from tumblr but with excellent organizational skills) showed, “some initiative,” yesterday and decided themself to be capable of utilizing a hand tool, only to brutally cross-thread some 6-32 brass, socket head screws into the the billet aluminum face of an amplifier, to the point of sheering the screw and carving a chasm into the topside of said faceplate. This was damage of the sort you’d expect to see on the door of an ex-husband’s 1980s ‘Vette following a sixth consecutive month of missed child support. No, that wasn’t wood, but brass screws require enough finesse as is without fuckery. Hope your day improved after that.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 02:12 |
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Discernibly Turgid posted:I shuddered when I saw that. Should be fine. I'll pick up some sort of screw extractor tomorrow. The most irritating thing is going to be sourcing a comparable flat, slotted, polished brash screw.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 03:25 |
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Danhenge posted:Should be fine. I'll pick up some sort of screw extractor tomorrow. The most irritating thing is going to be sourcing a comparable flat, slotted, polished brash screw. They will literally sell you 1 screw. Small local hardware stores/Ace usually have a better selection of brass screws than the big box places.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 03:32 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:boltdepot.com Yeah, the local Ace has a decent selection. Thanks for the bolt depot tip!
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 04:22 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:boltdepot.com This rules, you rule
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 04:24 |
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I just bought a 1617EVSPK and it arrived and lord this thing is way bigger than I realized.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 15:35 |
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So I had a really good bonus at work this year and decided I wanted to finally bite the bullet and buy the *forever* jointer/planer combo machine. Felder stopped putting estimated delivery dates on their website (it said 7-9 months before the change), still waiting to hear back. Anyone want to guess what delivery date I got from the Minimax dealer?
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 17:07 |
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A very tentative 2023?
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 17:39 |
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GEMorris posted:So I had a really good bonus at work this year and decided I wanted to finally bite the bullet and buy the *forever* jointer/planer combo machine. I know Felder makes good machines, but every time I've called (even in non-pandemic times)to get a quote or ask about machines it takes a week for them to call me back and sorry, but gently caress that. I had good luck with this place when I bought my shaper. I asked about some SCM/minimax stuff and he said they actually were able to keep some stuff in stock-might be worth asking. Seemed like they maintained some of their own inventory of that instead of just drop shipping from SCM. https://www.elitemetaltools.com/tool-shop/woodworking/combination-jointers/planers I've never been able to put my hands on a Felder and I'm sure they are good, but I have been nothing but completely and utterly satisfied with my 2 SCMI machines. You won't go wrong with them. What size are you looking at? E: I would also recommend the SCM Xylent head. It's not really a spiral head in that the cutting edges are still straight across so it doesn't get the shearing cut a true spiral might get, but it is sooooooooo much quieter and works much better for dust extraction. I think the tersa actually has a bit better quality of cut. The straight knife Tersa system is great too and still quieter than old fashioned straight knives, but it's definitely loud and the big chips clog my dust collector sometime. I think the Xylent is worth the extra $500 or whatever, but if you could get a Tersa tomorrow vs a xylent in a year, the tersa is great. I can change knives on my big planer in 5 minutes with it. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Sep 9, 2021 |
# ? Sep 9, 2021 17:45 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:June 2022? Actually May 2022, but yeah, way far out Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I know Felder makes good machines, but every time I've called (even in non-pandemic times)to get a quote or ask about machines it takes a week for them to call me back and sorry, but gently caress that. Elite is who I'm talking to, yeah, and I can echo your sales communication issues with Felder. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I've never been able to put my hands on a Felder and I'm sure they are good, but I have been nothing but completely and utterly satisfied with my 2 SCMI machines. You won't go wrong with them. FS 41, so the "bottom end" of the 16" j/p's I have worked with some felders before, and they are definitely on the same level as scmi imo, Hammer is equivalent to the lower end of the old minimax lineup. That said, its clear in the US that manufacturing def seems to prefer SCMI and Felder is mostly in custom shops and Dentist's garages. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:E: I would also recommend the SCM Xylent head. It's not really a spiral head in that the cutting edges are still straight across so it doesn't get the shearing cut a true spiral might get, but it is sooooooooo much quieter and works much better for dust extraction. I think the tersa actually has a bit better quality of cut. The straight knife Tersa system is great too and still quieter than old fashioned straight knives, but it's definitely loud and the big chips clog my dust collector sometime. I think the Xylent is worth the extra $500 or whatever, but if you could get a Tersa tomorrow vs a xylent in a year, the tersa is great. I can change knives on my big planer in 5 minutes with it. Yeah noise is actually a major concern as I'm now in a basement rather than a garage. Xylent is what I got a quote on but didn't consider asking if the tersa models are more readily available. Will probably wait on the Xylent tbh. One thing I don't like is that scmi/minimax converts their machines to porkchop guards. Hopefully they sell the euro guards, which I prefer, as aftermarket parts.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 19:58 |
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That's a tool I'm honestly surprised Grizzly never invested in. I think a reasonably priced, well-built grizzly duo would be hella popular. e- or if they did and dropped it, I never saw it.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 20:20 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's a tool I'm honestly surprised Grizzly never invested in. I think a reasonably priced, well-built grizzly duo would be hella popular. Grizzly does. The 12" are about 3k when I checked last year. Jet comes in at about 3-4k for a similar 12" combo. They don't really get bigger though. I expect larger sizes are industrial companies anyway.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 20:44 |
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Jhet posted:Grizzly does. The 12" are about 3k when I checked last year. Jet comes in at about 3-4k for a similar 12" combo. They don't really get bigger though. I expect larger sizes are industrial companies anyway. Well huh. Their online search failed me. Size is understandable.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 20:49 |
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Yeah Grizz/Jet/Rikon and I guess Scorpion (a goon here has one) all have options in the lower end of the market, usually at the 12" size. 16"+ is all the realm of the euro manufacturers, although Scorpion does make a 16" it is not enough of a discount for me to not go with a euro, but as always these days, the supply chain will do its best to prevent one from spending money. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Sep 9, 2021 |
# ? Sep 9, 2021 21:12 |
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Much cheaper jointer talk: Are Wahuda jointers (relatively) legit? The 8" seems like a decent option when you're starting to get into milling. I assume that, like every other benchtop jointer I've seen, the fence is kinda garbage, but that's relatively fixable I think? I'm just surprised at the price for a spiral carbide cutting head, and I'm wondering what the catch is. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Sep 9, 2021 |
# ? Sep 9, 2021 22:15 |
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The big problem with any benchtop jointer is the length of the tables. You won't ever really be able to flatten stock longer than twice the infeed length.
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 00:36 |
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I was sort of mentally adding in the necessity of extension tables, yeah. I realize they're not perfect, but they're a lot more achievable than buying an 8" free-standing jointer with a long bed. The way my shop is set up, with a long stone 32"-ish foundation wall, means that I've got a wall that's kind of hard to use for much in the way of table space (because the shop's too narrow to let under-table cabinets stick out that far) but could work pretty well as a set of tool stations (miter saw, planer, jointer). So that's my plan at the moment, though it could change pretty easily. So I'm mostly wondering if the mechanicals are secretly awful, or whether the cutters on the head are secretly made of Grade Q Corbode or some poo poo. I struggle to see how they're making money at those prices based on how everybody else prices theirs. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Sep 10, 2021 |
# ? Sep 10, 2021 02:38 |
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Oh, well I've heard they run decently. At that price you're getting a universal motor which are waayyyy louder than the induction motor you'd get on a bigger unit.
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 12:06 |
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Are new production hand planes any good?
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 13:46 |
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Are new production hand planes any good? By Lie-Nielsen, Lee Valley (Veritas), Bridge City Tools? Absolutely Yes By Woodcraft (WoodRiver), Benchdog, Stanley (Sweetheart line only)? Conditionally yes, may require some work or even occasionally a return to get a good one. By Stanley (non-sweetheart), Buck Bros, Harbor Freight, etc? Don't waste your time.
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 14:11 |
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GEMorris posted:By Lie-Nielsen, Lee Valley (Veritas), Bridge City Tools? Absolutely Yes Oh that topic, does anyone know about the quality of Quangsheng planes? Chinese made but about 50-60% of the cost of Veritas/Lie-Nielsen/Clifton that are otherwise available to me in the UK e: lol after doing some reading Quangsheng are basically the same planes as Wood River but sold in the UK under a different name so no matter Noxville fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Sep 10, 2021 |
# ? Sep 10, 2021 14:39 |
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GEMorris posted:By Lie-Nielsen, Lee Valley (Veritas), Bridge City Tools? Absolutely Yes I would agree with this. I've never used a Wood River plane but they have really good reviews online. I have a set of low angle Vertias planes and they are very high quality.
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 15:41 |
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I work construction and don't use a table saw ever, but circ saws seem much more dangerous considering you have essentially the same saw blade & motor but have to hold it in place. Table saws will launch wood and encourage reaching in, but the fixed blade seems inherently more safe. But I always hear that table saws are the most dangerous so what am I missing?
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 13:19 |
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lil poopendorfer posted:I work construction and don't use a table saw ever, but circ saws seem much more dangerous considering you have essentially the same saw blade & motor but have to hold it in place. Table saws will launch wood and encourage reaching in, but the fixed blade seems inherently more safe. But I always hear that table saws are the most dangerous so what am I missing? Oh circ saws are absolutely dangerous af. When you head "table saws are the most dangerous" there is an implied "stationary power tools for ripping" that goes along with it.
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 13:38 |
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Statistically I believe band saws are more dangerous But only in number of incidents and not in severity of injuries
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 13:48 |
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Sockser posted:Statistically I believe band saws are more dangerous Not in any summary ive ever seen, got a link?
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 13:51 |
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lil poopendorfer posted:I work construction and don't use a table saw ever, but circ saws seem much more dangerous considering you have essentially the same saw blade & motor but have to hold it in place. Table saws will launch wood and encourage reaching in, but the fixed blade seems inherently more safe. But I always hear that table saws are the most dangerous so what am I missing? Sockser posted:Statistically I believe band saws are more dangerous
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 14:07 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I wonder if that has anything to do with the fact that (at least commercially) bandsaws are used mostly by butchers/meatpackers, and not by woodworkers? Most commercial cabinet/millwork shops have tablesaws everywhere and maybe a dusty little bandsaw in the corner to cut out some feet on occasion. Carpenters never really use bandsaws, though I really wish someone would make a little one that was portable enough to go to a jobsite. There's are certainly frequency and scoping issues that have to be controlled when looking at the stats. Some studies focus specifically on woodworking related accidents, some may focus on "any tool" that caused an accident regardless of context. I need to dig up old posts as I know I found a pretty thorough gov data source for this but thanks to the ever degrading nature of google I can't find it now. The problem with "small bandsaws" are numerous and lead to why the tool you are describing doesn't really exist. 1. If wheel size gets below 10" or so blades get stressed and break before they get dull. 2. If the throat depth is less than 12" or so you start to become very limited as a general purpose tool on a job site. 3. Making a bandsaw that solves the above with two wheels gets you the classic 14" saw which is unwieldy for a site, maybe someone could come up with a neat rolling/collapsing stand if there seemed to be a market for it. 4. Three wheel saws are finnicky af, even the one good one* and that isnt great for a jobsite tool, even though this is the most reliable way to increase throat depth while keeping overall size and weight down. All that said I think the closest we ever got to a really usable and useful jobsite bandsaw were the incas (two and three wheelers) that had the motors mounted directly to the frame. This is mostly due to the die cast aluminum construction keeping the weight down, and the general precision those saws had. Even the three wheeler with a 20" throat can easily be moved by two people, one in a pinch, but like I said its a bit finnicky at times.
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 15:07 |
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Unless you trip and fall face-first into it what side the blade's on only matters inasmuch as you're already really loving up, like there's a statistically meaningful number of cucumber-related injuries every year too from people shoving them up their rear end but that doesn't really mean you've gotta worry that if you keep a cucumber in the house it might find its way into your colon The major hazard of table and circular saws to a someone who uses it the right way around, vs. bandsaws, is that they'll chuck poo poo at you, which you can mitigate but never totally eliminate. the overwhelming majority of people who get hurt by the blades are just shoving a cucumber up their rear end, and there's some very simple things you can do to bring your risk of getting cut by the blade down to bandsaw levels or lower. You're 5x more likely to get injured if you don't have a riving knife on the blade. 3/4 of the injuries from blade contact come from people who were resting their hand on the wood behind it, when, usually, it kicks back. A table saw doesn't just... suck you in during moderately incorrect usage, like a lathe might, you're not getting within 3" of the blade unless you reach over it or directly just shove your drat hand into it. The latter is also how people hurt themselves on bandsaws, far more frequently since a standard bandsaw doesn't give you all the tools you need to manipulate the stock while keeping yourself a good distance from the blade, but usually a bandsaw nip won't put you in the ER. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Sep 11, 2021 |
# ? Sep 11, 2021 15:31 |
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Apparently 77% doesn't know if there were any safety warnings or didn't see them in the manual/instructions. Which must mean they didn't even read it, as most power tool manuals I've come across spend many pages at the start on warnings. Also, 97% of people injured were men, which just reinforces the whole "men don't read instructions"-idea.
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 16:04 |
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Just Winging It posted:Apparently 77% doesn't know if there were any safety warnings or didn't see them in the manual/instructions. Which must mean they didn't even read it, as most power tool manuals I've come across spend many pages at the start on warnings. Also, 97% of people injured were men, which just reinforces the whole "men don't read instructions"-idea. That really only says that men are more likely to go in with an injury. It doesn't provide any insight as to whether they're also more or less likely to read the instructions or safety warnings as that doesn't have a full sample to be querying. You'd need to ask a representative sample of all the people who who use the machine about reading the manual to answer that second part. It does mean that men are more likely to be injured and need medical attention.
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 16:15 |
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the average age being 55+ also makes a lot of sense lol
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 16:21 |
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GEMorris posted:Not in any summary ive ever seen, got a link? Searching for stats looks like I must have made it up completely
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 17:02 |
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yeah bandsaw injuries are way way lower; I'd presume because most that do happen are basically a nasty scratch and go unreported. I know I've walked off a few, as have most I've worked with imo you're way less likely to come in contact with the blade on a table saw if you apply minimal common sense, but if you do cut yourself it's gonna be bad A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Sep 11, 2021 |
# ? Sep 11, 2021 17:22 |
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Best way to gently caress yourself up on a bandsaw is to try to cut something cylindrical, have your thumb behind the cut line, and have the blade grab enough to make the piece turn faster than you expected. Which absolutely falls in the "dont do stupid poo poo" bucket
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 17:46 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 20:01 |
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While we're talking bandsaws, what bandsaw would you recommend for a weekend warrior who is looking to hit the price/value point E. Specifically for replacing the table saw CommonShore fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Sep 11, 2021 |
# ? Sep 11, 2021 18:12 |