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It’s wooden plank subflooring, sorry I forgot to mention that.
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Sep 10, 2021 22:08
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Ball Tazeman posted:It’s wooden plank subflooring, sorry I forgot to mention that. Is it hardwood or like the cheapest knotty pine they sell?
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Sep 10, 2021 23:14
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Definitely the latter. It’s pretty knotted and soft.
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Sep 10, 2021 23:31
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Demo is done. Old tree stump is super rotten so no big deal there. Contractors are supposed to start on Tuesday! I'm so excited because the contract is an actual loving contract and not an ms word 5 lines of "will pour concrete"  I guess I should add the total cost for this undertaking. -dumpster 1: 550 Dumpster 2: 500ish? Managed to fill another one completely. -pair of gloves, completely trashed -overheated my impact driver several times, but it still works fine? -Sawzall ultimate demo blade, lived up to its name and served proudly -several donuts to replace the calories I was burning Still have to move the woodpile off the driveway which I'm not looking forward to. Might just have a bonfire. NomNomNom fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Sep 11, 2021 |
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Sep 11, 2021 00:23
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Many of us who live in cold areas always wonder how tf deck laying on cinder blocks can even be legal. Sincerely, frost heave.
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Sep 11, 2021 00:55
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I mean I live in 7b (northern virginia) and it does freeze (or at least it used to). This deck was just beyond janky.
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Sep 11, 2021 01:03
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falz posted:Many of us who live in cold areas always wonder how tf deck laying on cinder blocks can even be legal. For my next trick I will dazzle you with the sights of my uninsulated copper water pipes! Outside! Buried a mere 18" into the ground! Also its 101f outside right now.
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Sep 11, 2021 01:04
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Whew I felt guilty only going down 3.5' instead of 4' for some deck stairs posts last year.
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Sep 11, 2021 01:46
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falz posted:Many of us who live in cold areas always wonder how tf deck laying on cinder blocks can even be legal. I grew up in Minnesota. Neighbors built a deck off their 2nd story. Contractor dug concrete footings and everything. But they weren't deep enough. One of the posts heaved the first winter. Like, several inches. Very obvious, even from a distance. Pretty sure the contractor never fixed it. I'd have been pissed. Still baffled that where I live in the southeast only requires basic concrete footers, which aren't 48" deep. Blows my Midwestern mind that the ground doesn'tove a poo poo ton throughout the year.
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Sep 11, 2021 01:50
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NomNomNom posted:
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Sep 11, 2021 14:17
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What's the best way to seal around this gap between the hood duct and drywall? Will expanding foam work or would it just expand up? Is there some type of sturdy putty I can mold and shove up there?
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Sep 11, 2021 22:09
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PageMaster posted:What's the best way to seal around this gap between the hood duct and drywall? Will expanding foam work or would it just expand up? Is there some type of sturdy putty I can mold and shove up there? https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Fire-Barrier-10-1-oz-Red-Sanded-Paintable-Latex-Caulk/3372952 That will not only seal the gap but it will protect the penetration from any fire from the floor below.
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Sep 11, 2021 22:12
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Motronic posted:https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Fire-Barrier-10-1-oz-Red-Sanded-Paintable-Latex-Caulk/3372952 Thanks! Will that span a large opening(maybe a half inch to an inch in spots) or is special prep needed? Like maybe backer rod?
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Sep 11, 2021 23:45
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PageMaster posted:Thanks! Will that span a large opening(maybe a half inch to an inch in spots) or is special prep needed? Like maybe backer rod? It will but it will make a mess. Until it's starting to set its very easy for gravity to pull it down. Put down some plastic sheets and have acetone + rag on hand. Wear eye protection, if any gets on your skin immediately stop what you're doing and hit it with acetone. Wear clothes you don't care about. You could try sticking the tube in the hole a bit facing away from the exhaust to get it started, let that set / expand, then give it another bead. No I haven't used expanding foam to fill gaps it shouldn't why would you ask that? Or use a collar and caulk. It will take the same amount of time and be fine. Both will keep bugs and draft out.
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Sep 11, 2021 23:54
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If I'm caulking/spray foaming a gap like that where gravity is going to screw me, I'll sometimes use a fat strip of masking tape to create a shelf for the caulk to sit on until it cures. You can go bit by bit sticking small lengths of tape to hold it. Peels off when it's hard.
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Sep 12, 2021 00:08
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This took me 5 goddamn hours, for various minute bullshit: From the inside, couldn't get the hole saw all the way through the rim joist due to clearance between drill and block wall. Futzed around cobbling together an extension for my pilot bit to mark the outside. Took over an hour to drill and chisel the opening in the brick from the outside, then got to finish chiseling the joist out from the inside. Didn't have the right tapcons to secure the hood. Went to home depot, got tapcons and cheap Avanti bit. Broke Avanti bit on first hole. Back to home depot for tapcon brand bit. Finally get the hood in. Caulk it. Disconnect old bullshit on inside, blow it out. Get new ducting connected. Tape all the seams with the proper tape after removing gunky duck tape. Go back out and mix some mortar to patch hole. Get greedy and collapse the patch in the hole. Stuff a bunch of debris in the hole to act as a backer. Patch hole got real. Vacuum up the mess inside. Cry a bit.
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Sep 12, 2021 00:19
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NomNomNom posted:This took me 5 goddamn hours, for various minute bullshit:
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Sep 12, 2021 00:25
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Just give yourself enough time to change plans or wrap things up, never start a project on a Sunday afternoon if you have work Monday morning.
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Sep 12, 2021 00:43
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H110Hawk posted:It will but it will make a mess. Until it's starting to set its very easy for gravity to pull it down. Put down some plastic sheets and have acetone + rag on hand. Wear eye protection, if any gets on your skin immediately stop what you're doing and hit it with acetone. Wear clothes you don't care about. You could try sticking the tube in the hole a bit facing away from the exhaust to get it started, let that set / expand, then give it another bead. No I haven't used expanding foam to fill gaps it shouldn't why would you ask that? Looked it up online and there's no way I don't get this all over the kitchen... I'll grab a bunch of plastic and give it a go; couldn't find collars the right size that I can put on without taking the duct out first, so that'll have to be a good start along with the tape suggestion above.
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Sep 12, 2021 00:58
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Anyone have any recommendations for gloves for general yard work? I trolled myself into dethatching most of the lawn today with a lawn rake and got some gnarly blisters on my pampered computer-toucher hands.
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Sep 12, 2021 01:19
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umbrage posted:Anyone have any recommendations for gloves for general yard work? I trolled myself into dethatching most of the lawn today with a lawn rake and got some gnarly blisters on my pampered computer-toucher hands. If you have one nearby, Harbor Freight is my go to. They have pretty much any type you could want, for much cheaper than elsewhere, and you can size the fit. My favorite gen purpose gloves are https://www.harborfreight.com/safety/gloves/coated-rubber-grip-gloves-large-90912.html They have great grip, and they're so cheap that when they get dirty, just toss them. I even use them for weightlifting, and like them better than most purpose-built weightlifting gloves.
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Sep 12, 2021 01:28
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Firm Grip brand has done right by me. I used a pair of Holmes for the demo work and completely shredded them in the 4 days.
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Sep 12, 2021 01:33
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I like the Mechanix ones. The leather impact ones with the knuckle protection have saved me from loving myself up a few times now, and they are comfortably sized for my pampered computer toucher hands.
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Sep 12, 2021 06:47
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tracecomplete posted:I like the Mechanix ones. The leather impact ones with the knuckle protection have saved me from loving myself up a few times now, and they are comfortably sized for my pampered computer toucher hands. I used to have mechanics hands, but now have similarly soft claws. You can get better gloves, but I’m hard pressed to recommend a glove better than Mechanix for the money. I pretty continually have at least three pair around, plus a pair (or two) that I wear for diving/lobstering/lionfishing. I also have a pair of short but gently caress-off-thick leather gloves for really heavy duty poo poo, handling sheet metal, etc. Mechanix tend to value dexterity and tactile feel over absolute cut protection, which is better for like 95% of jobs, but I hate cutting my hands.
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Sep 12, 2021 12:57
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MrYenko posted:I used to have mechanics hands, but now have similarly soft claws. New title text?
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Sep 12, 2021 13:57
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The Dave posted:Just give yourself enough time to change plans or wrap things up, never start a project on a Sunday afternoon if you have work Monday morning. This. Then on that one in a million project where everything goes to plan and you're done way before you thought you would be, you have a lot more time to celebrate this fact. Or, to go fix something else unrelated because the house doesn't appreciate your hubris. NomNomNom posted:Firm Grip brand has done right by me. I used a pair of Holmes for the demo work and completely shredded them in the 4 days. I like my Firm Grip gloves well enough but I find I keep wearing through them way sooner than I'd expect. I got some of the ridiculously thick Milwaukee gloves that Project Farm liked. They definitely require some breaking in and getting used to, the back-of-hand protection is stiff at first. But now I've put them through the same type of work that started ripping up my Firm Grips almost right away, and the Milwaukees still look nearly new.
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Sep 12, 2021 16:31
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PageMaster posted:What's the best way to seal around this gap between the hood duct and drywall? Will expanding foam work or would it just expand up? Is there some type of sturdy putty I can mold and shove up there? Get some of the foil tape they used to join the ductwork together and just tape over the gap. I'm assuming there's some sort of surround that's going to cover that anyway.
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Sep 12, 2021 21:03
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cruft posted:New title text? Potential. IOwnCalculus posted:This.
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Sep 12, 2021 22:27
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EVERYWHERE 
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IOwnCalculus posted:But now I've put them through the same type of work that started ripping up my Firm Grips almost right away, and the Milwaukees still look nearly new. I might have to check this out. The best outdoor glove strategy I've otherwise found so far is to just buy cheap latex coated ones from wherever and toss them when they start getting holes in a week or two.
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Sep 13, 2021 01:02
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What’s wrong with leather work gloves? Particularly for something like shoveling or raking
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Sep 13, 2021 01:04
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one of the tradesguys who did some work for me a while back accidentally left a pair of gloves and I ended up using them and loving them so I it's what I have around now for almost any task They are a step up from barebones nitrile coated gloves, and they do protect me somewhat from sharp things, though not as well as full leather gloves. They breathe well and I can still use my phone with them on which is also a plus. https://www.amazon.com/34-8743-Medium-MaxiFlex-Engineered-Gloves/dp/B00YQNCF50?th=1
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Sep 13, 2021 01:58
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BigFactory posted:What’s wrong with leather work gloves? Particularly for something like shoveling or raking they dont make em like they used to is the only thing that comes to mind. its what i use. probably just because im imitating pep pep though.
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Sep 13, 2021 03:18
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Motronic posted:https://www.amazon.com/Sealing-Tuf-Tite-Polylok-Septic-16/dp/B01IRM64UW I called a local plumbing company to ask if they had this stuff in stock and the guy told me not to do that because sealing the tank like that will cause too much pressure to build up and blow the lid off. I am confusion.
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Sep 13, 2021 03:50
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If groundwater is getting into your 5" riser don't you have some serious flooding issues anyway? I've got an aerobic system that is definitely not sealed and isn't designed to be. Just concrete lids on risers and the air inlet for the aerator. If I have 5" of water overtopping my riser, it's also overtopping my foundation.
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Sep 13, 2021 04:29
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just another posted:I called a local plumbing company to ask if they had this stuff in stock and the guy told me not to do that because sealing the tank like that will cause too much pressure to build up and blow the lid off. I am confusion. I don't even know what to say in response to that. You do have a vent stack in your home for the drain plumbing I'm sure......like...if you didn't your sinks wouldn't drain properly. This is where any septic gas buildup exits. I don't understand how a properly plumbed house could ever build any pressure in a septic tank. Even in the bad days where they were putting P traps in the laterals to the tank.....it would build up enough pressure to burble back past the trap (minimal) and then burp out of your vent stack. I'd have a lot of questions about that "advice" and probably just assume they are idiots. But you decide for yourself. I'm just some idiot on the internet.
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Sep 13, 2021 04:38
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brugroffil posted:If groundwater is getting into your 5" riser don't you have some serious flooding issues anyway? No issues that I'm aware of with groundwater getting into the tank. The riser is about five or six inches above ground level. Motronic posted:I don't even know what to say in response to that. No, what you're saying makes more sense based on the hodgepodge of knowledge I've accumulated from YouTube and random books. What gave me pause is that, years ago, we rented a basement apartment in the country that had the septic back up into the house. Part of the fix for that place was a backwater valve. Would a backwater valve prevent the tank from properly venting through the stack?
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Sep 13, 2021 05:45
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just another posted:Would a backwater valve prevent the tank from properly venting through the stack? Only if it's closed, but that same valve is something that would never be needed (or closed) on a properly working and serviced system because......the system is literally lower than your lowest sanitary output by definition. Also...there is no conceivable way that even in a system that somehow got sealed up that some of that packing wouldn't blow out and vent, even when buried. It's not going to be like an 80s comedy where the lid blows off 100 feet into the sky and lands somewhere that hilariously sets off a chain of events. That's just ridiculous and unrealistic. Also without a backwater valve, if you had this much pressure in your septic tank and no proper vent you would hear the p traps in your sink burbling and your house would smell like rear end. LONG before this hilarious tank cap blowing off. You'd need to I guess cap off all of your drains and make sure your waste plumbing was rated to several hundred PSI to make sure you could build up enough pressure. Sorry, I'm going on and on here.....but if you know how plumbing and septic system work this is just........stupid.
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Sep 13, 2021 06:18
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Getting a new concrete driveway and patio, contractor offers and recommends an acrylic sealer. Easy upsell for them or actually worthwhile?
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Sep 13, 2021 14:24
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The Saucer Hovers posted:they dont make em like they used to is the only thing that comes to mind. its what i use. probably just because im imitating pep pep though. Idk mine always seem to last forever unlike the expensive fitted gloves that die within 6 months. Nitrile coated gloves are fine if you’re dealing with stuff you don’t want touching your skin but i hate wearing them otherwise and they’re not particularly cut resistant unless they’re also Kevlar. For real sharp stuff I wear Kevlar under leather gloves.
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Sep 13, 2021 14:30
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Seen on Reddit:quote:When my parents and I (aged 7) moved into my childhood home, we found a little vacuum in the closet with a note taped to it that said “Good luck” and that’s it. Shortly after that, we discovered that the house had a yellow jacket infestation. That vacuum, dear reader, was the yellow jacket vacuum. My most horrible memory of that time is of taking a bath and suddenly hearing a buzzing very nearby and seeing little wasp legs and heads sticking out from the bathtub overflow drain. They’d also swim up through the toilet (HOW?!?!????) and come up from the sink drains. We spent much of that first year screaming. But I came here to ask about this: quote:If you live in a single-family home you can go check the vent pipe. I've pulled a squirrel out of one, but never had bees in it before. Usually its those Maple Tree seeds that twirl like helicopters.
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Sep 13, 2021 18:33
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