|
Slugworth posted:Quoting you for reference, but question for whoever - Any clue why there are two neutrals? I've hung a bunch of ceiling fans in my time and don't recall them having multiple neutrals. Probably just two different circuit boards that aren't joined inside.
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2021 15:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 23:59 |
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Ours did it from the outside and patched all the stucco but I had to paint. It was 100% worth it from purely a comfort standpoint, and paid for itself in reduced heating/cooling costs in like 2 years. (Mostly cooling, hello 100+F summers.) We also did the attic. Would do it again. That definitely sounds preferable to me. As for payback time, I live in a temperate coastal climate, the annual temperature swing is from like 40-70F. No need for cooling in the summer, limited need for heating in the winter. I remember (from when I got the house inspected prior to purchase) there being some insulation in the attic, but it's a pain in the rear end to access because the hatch is partially over the stairs, so there's like a 15' drop below it and positioning a ladder safely is just a bit tricky. So I don't know how much insulation is in the attic. I know that that's the most important area to insulate when it comes to keeping a house warm.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2021 16:48
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Does this pic of the bath fan's junction box help at all? It at least identifies which ones are for the "lights". Absolutely. Blue is the hot for the night light. Wires on the left (in your picture) are for the fan (black is hot, white is N), and the black on the right is for the main light. Fan black goes to your black, light black goes to red, wire nut the whites together, wire nut the GNDs together. Capping off the blue will disable the night light completely. I suppose you could wire nut it together with the red/black for the light and it'll light up same time as the main light. But with the wire you have in the wall you only get 2 switches, so you have to decide what you want to do. Night light probably doesn't add much so might be fine to leave it capped off.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2021 18:46
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:Absolutely. Blue is the hot for the night light. Wires on the left (in your picture) are for the fan (black is hot, white is N), and the black on the right is for the main light. Oh I really need that light, though. This bath fan is in an enclosed toilet room. It is the only light in that toilet room. It's basically a closet. Otherwise I'll be pissing in the dark
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2021 22:28
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:OK so after some more reading it looks like the intended approach is to use a breather membrane (I think this is the term we use more than WRB) externally and a vapour barrier internally, basically two bubbles. I think I can manage that. I took a look at the last two pages of your thread and I'm guessing you're working on details for the build in your rear garden? You've got the basics right - in a heating climate you want to put the vapor barrier inside of your insulation (the Tyvek AirGuard) to stop vapor from moving into your insulation. technically you don't need a 'breather membrane' with all types of siding, but it's nice insurance and required in most cases. The key is to make sure the 'breather membrane' has a low perm/low sd rating so that if something gets past the Tyvek AirGuard on the interior it has a way to dry out (towards the exterior, which is permeable). The Tyvek AirGuard actually looks overkill from my perspective (I don't use sd values, but 2,000 seems like it's on the high side), but if it's cheap and available go for it. From what I remember you are using that building as a shop (no bathroom, kitchen, etc.) so there really isn't going to be much interior moisture to worry about. In the USA we have three classes of vapor barriers and the Tyvek AirGuard would be less permeable than requirements in all climate zones. The Tyvek Housewrap is the important layer - keep bulk water from getting into your wall if you make a mistake/there is damage to your siding. The Tyvek AirGuard is less important given how I think you plan on using the building. I don't quite understand yet what you are doing with the floor. Are you thinking about using a membrane to hold the insulation away from the ground below? I would be concerned about critter damage and would sheath the bottom with a contact-rated plywood (pressure treated is what it's commonly called in the USA) instead of a membrane. Lastly, if you are pulling a permit for this work what's more important than my opinion or your opinion is the opinion of your inspector. You might want to run your selections by them if applicable.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2021 22:40
|
|
|
Is everything literally junk? What am I missing. I bought these A33 angles for a wood project I'm doing. ON THE BOX it recommends SD Connector #9 1 1/2" screws, so I got a box of those too. The screws don't fit the holes! I've tried many different screws and different angles from the boxes. I don't get it.   ... Someone please explain.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2021 23:36
|
|
|
That looks like it'll go right through that with an impact driver.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2021 00:49
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:That looks like it'll go right through that with an impact driver. The screw is suppose to cut into the hole a bit?
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2021 00:56
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Oh I really need that light, though. Then you'd want the night light (blue) wired to black in your incoming cable, and then the fan and main light (both blacks) wired to red in the incoming cable. The fan and main light will always come on at the same time. You've only got the black and red to carry hot, yet you have 3 functions you're powering. 2 will always have to be wired together unless you run a new cable. melon cat posted:This bath fan is in an enclosed toilet room. It is the only light in that toilet room. It's basically a closet. Thus the phrase "water closet."
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2021 01:00
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:Then you'd want the night light (blue) wired to black in your incoming cable, and then the fan and main light (both blacks) wired to red in the incoming cable. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2021 02:34
|
|
|
Tezer posted:I took a look at the last two pages of your thread and I'm guessing you're working on details for the build in your rear garden? Thanks that's all very helpful stuff. This particular build isn't permit controlled so I'm looking at various standards mainly as a way to ensure I'm doing a decent job. Legally I could line it with newspaper. There will be a sink in the building but no shower, so you're right there in that I'm not expecting to dump lots of moisture into the building. My main concern is condensation when it sits unheated for a while.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2021 07:30
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Sorry if I'm not understanding this but shouldn't I be able to control the light and the bath fan independently? There are two light switches. And with the old boob light + fan combo that I ripped out one switch controlled the fan, the other controlled the light. This pair of light switches is in the same watercloset:
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2021 12:34
|
|
|
You can put the nightlight wire into the same hot nut as the fan and have white noise 2am tinkles as well. Assuming switched wires black is fan and red is accessory (light) then it would be: Black / blue light / black fan Red / black light Neutrals (all of them) Ground (all of them) You switch on the fan to get nightlight. This assumes that the supply power is in the switchbox and not the overhead box.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2021 15:57
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:That definitely sounds preferable to me. As for payback time, I live in a temperate coastal climate, the annual temperature swing is from like 40-70F. No need for cooling in the summer, limited need for heating in the winter. It's probably not worth doing the walls until you do the attic. What you're really looking for in the attic is air sealing, where they go around with caulk + spray foam and seal up all the gaps where conditioned air could be escaping. Then, they blow insulation on top of that, and it should make a significant difference. See if your state/county/utility company offers a discounted energy audit program. If you can get someone out with a thermal camera and blower door, you should be able to figure out the big areas that need fixing. One place to check would be BPI certified contractors: http://www.bpi.org/
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2021 21:14
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Sorry if I'm not understanding this but shouldn't I be able to control the light and the bath fan independently? There are two light switches. And with the old boob light + fan combo that I ripped out one switch controlled the fan, the other controlled the light. This pair of light switches is in the same watercloset: Slugworth posted:He's just saying there are 3 devices to control, and you only have two wires, so one way or another two of them will have to be linked together on one switch. You can swap them around however you desire, but having both lights tied together negates the purpose entirely of the nightlight feature (which, probably no big loss in my mind). Having the light and fan tied together is pretty common in bathrooms, and if you did that, you could have the nightlight on its own switch for quiet, low light nighttime urination. It's this. You don't have enough wires, or switches, to control all 3 items separately. If you had an extra wire you could wire the night light to hot (permanently on) and control the fan/light separately even with the 2 switches, but you don't have that. I mean, you COULD wire the night light hot anyhow by bypassing the switch, but IMO just put it on the switch. You can always bypass it later if you want. But yeah, fan/light on the same switch in a water closet is no big deal, unless it's hella loud (which it won't be with that panasonic).
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2021 22:49
|
|
|
Is this the right place to ask for help identifying some mystery houseplants I won?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 00:26
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:It's this.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 03:02
|
|
|
Your fan has three functions - a light, a night light (I'm assuming it's a dimmer version of the light), and a fan. Each one of those needs its own switch if you want to control all three independently. Since you only have two switches, you'll need to choose two functions to combine onto one switch. You can combine the two lights onto one switch so you can choose full light or fan or both. You can combine the regular light and the fan on one switch so you can have a quiet pee in the dark if you want. Or you can combine the night light and the fan on one switch so you can have a dim white noise pee or a blindingly silent one.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 03:09
|
|
|
Fozzy The Bear posted:The screw is suppose to cut into the hole a bit? Yes. That's how those fit.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 05:17
|
|
|
Guildenstern Mother posted:Is this the right place to ask for help identifying some mystery houseplants I won? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3951612 
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 07:39
|
|
|
melon cat posted:But what are these three "items" that you're referring to? I'm a total rube when it comes to electrical and it's just a fan + light, which I believe are 2 items? Of course I could be completely misunderstanding what you mean in referring to "3 items". The night light is the 3rd item. You have and need to supply power for: 1) Fan (black wire on fan header, with white neutral) 2) Main Light (black wire on light header, with white neutral) 3) Night light (blue wire on light header, same neutral as main light) Each item needs power from somewhere. But, the problem is you only have 2 power wires to give (red and black in the cable in your ceiling), so in order to get power to all 3 things 2 of them will have to share, which means they'll turn on/off together. Ideally you'd have the night light wired hot so it's on all the time, but you need 1 more wire that you don't have. You don't necessarily need another switch, but you do need more wires. edit: I should clarify. "Need" is a strong word here... as pointed out, having the main light on the same switch as the fan is really not a big deal. You don't NEED any more wires... it'd be marginally better if you did, but it's certainly not necessary. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Sep 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 12:18
|
|
|
I'm trying my hand at installing a shower door. The instructions say to file the wall jamb on each side to match the curvature of each corner where the stall wall meets the front lip so the jambs are flush against the stall walls. It shows a picture of a dime with vague instructions about using a coin to note and mark the curvature on the jamb prior to filing it but it's extremely confusing to me. Is there any easy way to transfer the curve onto the jamb so I know where/how much to file?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 16:04
|
|
|
Fozzy The Bear posted:Is everything literally junk? What am I missing. Screw it in, man. SST stuff is awesome, I use it wherever I can. It can get expensive, but I always find it worth it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 20:17
|
|
|
Hopefully somebody has some advice on at least insulating a French door. I have this triangular stuff I installed when we moved a while ago: I can see some light make it through, and it was drafty as hell during the big freeze this year. The door also lets in a lot of noise. Is there something better? Is there anything other than some fragile foam I could use in the seam between the doors? I know I'd need to cut holes for the door hardware, but I figure anything that closes that gap can help. We also do get some water that comes in from the top in crazy rain storms. We're not sure how yet and it might not even be at the door itself but the farm or a window above. I previously posted about just replacing the French doors with a single, and got not response. Coincidentally, nobody locally wants to really say anything about noise reduction from exterior front doors, and I'm having to scrape together advice from doors that do have posted ratings and things like that. Until then, I figured I'd try to better insulate it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 20:44
|
|
|
devicenull posted:It's probably not worth doing the walls until you do the attic. What you're really looking for in the attic is air sealing, where they go around with caulk + spray foam and seal up all the gaps where conditioned air could be escaping. Then, they blow insulation on top of that, and it should make a significant difference. Thanks, that's helpful. And yeah, definitely worth verifying that I'm doing the highest-priority thing first.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2021 22:35
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:Absolutely. Blue is the hot for the night light. Wires on the left (in your picture) are for the fan (black is hot, white is N), and the black on the right is for the main light. Bath fan update- I did this wiring setup (thanks for the details instructions btw). Result: Light switch 1 turns light on only (no fan). Light switch 2 turns on fan only (no light). And fan takes a full 2 seconds before it starts spinning. Not the outcome I was expecting- I was expecting the light and fan and turn on simultaneously when I flicked one of the light switches. Did I do something wrong or is my house wiring fucky? I mean I'm fine with this result don't get me wrong- I just don't want to burn my house down. Let me clear about the fact that I don't give a poo poo about a night light. Also- is there anything bad about using these 3/8" junction box clamps for a bath fan strain relief instead of a non-metallic one like this one? melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Sep 21, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 00:06
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Light switch 1 turns light on only (no fan). If you want 1 switch for fan+light then you're in luck. Wire nut 1: Black supply wire from your switch, Black from "light", black from "fan." Wire nut 2: Red supply wire from your switch, blue from "light". Wire nut 3: All neutrals. (No change.) Wire nut 4: All grounds. (No change.) If you're unsure post a picture of your nuts. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 00:55
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Bath fan update- I did this wiring setup (thanks for the details instructions btw). Result: Yup, that's exactly what I would expect with the setup you quoted. Unfortunately, I think you missed some posts and didn't use the updated wiring! My post that you quoted was before you said you wanted the nightlight. Right now if the blue is not connected, then the night light won't turn on. If that's what you want then all is good it seems, but should be pretty easy to swap some wire nuts around and get it where you want. Based on how the conversation has evolved, it sounds like this will get you where you want to be: H110Hawk posted:Wire nut 1: Black supply wire from your switch, Black from "light", black from "fan." This will get you nightlight on one switch, and fan + main light on the other switch. IMO that's the best outcome you can hope for with the wiring you have available, and honestly it's not a bad outcome for a water closet. Not perfect, but drat near. And, as suggested, don't be afraid to post a picture if you're unsure.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 01:23
|
|
|
Flashing question. I have a bulkhead/bilco door and it was obviously installed with a poo poo flashing job. I am replacing the sheathing and anything underneath, but what is the right way to flash this so it doesn't happen again? The thing that has me unsure is that the previous installer cut out the sheathing around the area where the door lays against the house. This means the lip sits under the osb, as you can see in the picture. I don't understand how to keep the water from getting in the sides when it runs off the top though, since everything is recessed. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 03:44
|
|
|
The tap water in my bathroom has suddenly picked up a rubber/chlorine aftertaste. It's almost certainly from bits of O-ring in the pipes from when my shower broke -- supplemental evidence being little bits of black crud I found in the sink that smear if I scrub them. The water tastes kinda nasty, but is it actually unhealthy to drink? Any recommended action to take here beyond continuing to run water and hoping to eventually flush it all out?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2021 18:07
|
|
|
What's a reasonable cost for an annual gas furnace inspection/cleaning? Ours is 12 years old and working fine but I wanted to have it looked at to make sure it is running ok. First place I called quoted $550 which seemed very high.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 00:16
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:The tap water in my bathroom has suddenly picked up a rubber/chlorine aftertaste. It's almost certainly from bits of O-ring in the pipes from when my shower broke -- supplemental evidence being little bits of black crud I found in the sink that smear if I scrub them. The water tastes kinda nasty, but is it actually unhealthy to drink? Any recommended action to take here beyond continuing to run water and hoping to eventually flush it all out? You could run the water for a long time and hope that it clears up, but I'd consider a filter. I've got hard water here from the well so while I cook and wash from the tap, I run most of the water I drink through a filter since there's a lot of iron and other minerals. In the kitchen the fridge door dispenser has an in-line filter cartridge and elsewhere I use a brita pitcher or a faucet mounted brita filter. I'm not in love with the brand, they're just "fine" as far as filters go, but I wouldn't go cheaper and don't feel like more expensive it worthwhile to me. I was using Pur with the sink mount for a couple of years but in 2020 they seem to have split their filters into three different quality lines and none are readily available on amazon so I just switched to a brita one. Project Farm did a video about filters recently that looked at most of the major brands: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja0ioX6GSz0
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 00:56
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:You could run the water for a long time and hope that it clears up, but I'd consider a filter. I've got hard water here from the well so while I cook and wash from the tap, I run most of the water I drink through a filter since there's a lot of iron and other minerals. In the kitchen the fridge door dispenser has an in-line filter cartridge and elsewhere I use a brita pitcher or a faucet mounted brita filter. I'm not in love with the brand, they're just "fine" as far as filters go, but I wouldn't go cheaper and don't feel like more expensive it worthwhile to me. I was using Pur with the sink mount for a couple of years but in 2020 they seem to have split their filters into three different quality lines and none are readily available on amazon so I just switched to a brita one. The tap water in my area is usually of very high quality; it's just that there's crud in the pipes inside my house. A filter would probably work to get drinkable water, and it's certainly the most accessible option (compared to deconstructing a bunch of faucets or something), but it feels a bit unsatisfying...
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 01:15
|
|
|
I have a wall at the end of a hallway that I would like to make into an accent wall. My idea is to get some fancy fabric and cover the wall from floor to ceiling, s as that’s about how wide the wall is. What’s the best way to do that? Glue? Hangers? Tacks ?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 02:27
|
|
|
Hyrax Attack! posted:What's a reasonable cost for an annual gas furnace inspection/cleaning? Ours is 12 years old and working fine but I wanted to have it looked at to make sure it is running ok. First place I called quoted $550 which seemed very high. Keep callin. I would say under $200 for a nothing wrong. If it's still very hot where you are wait until it's a little more temperate. My place it's like $250 in the heart of summer and $150 special in like October. First years was free with a free giant filter since I bought it from them, he gave me that tip on his way out of the door.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 03:20
|
|
|
TacoHavoc posted:Flashing question. I have a bulkhead/bilco door and it was obviously installed with a poo poo flashing job. I am replacing the sheathing and anything underneath, but what is the right way to flash this so it doesn't happen again? The thing that has me unsure is that the previous installer cut out the sheathing around the area where the door lays against the house. This means the lip sits under the osb, as you can see in the picture. I don't understand how to keep the water from getting in the sides when it runs off the top though, since everything is recessed. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 07:59
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Keep callin. I would say under $200 for a nothing wrong. If it's still very hot where you are wait until it's a little more temperate. My place it's like $250 in the heart of summer and $150 special in like October. First years was free with a free giant filter since I bought it from them, he gave me that tip on his way out of the door. yeah a lot of places in my area are like a $79 checkup.. no clue on adding cleaning but I can't imagine a cleaning would add more to the cost since most of the cost is guy showing up and opening the 4 screws on furnace. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Sep 22, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 14:22
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:yeah a lot of places in my area are like a $79 checkup.. no clue on adding cleaning but I can't imagine a cleaning would add more to the cost since most of the cost is guy showing up and opening the 4 screws on furnace. Landlord replaced our AC last year and the company came out in August for the annual inspection and cleaning, I think it was around $150-$180. At least this is a new unit - our old unit was old, you would have had to cut the pipe to pull the coils out for cleaning, this one took him about twenty minutes to pop it out, hose it off, and put it back in. Including the inside and outside units, he was gone in less than an hour.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 16:27
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:The tap water in my bathroom has suddenly picked up a rubber/chlorine aftertaste. It's almost certainly from bits of O-ring in the pipes from when my shower broke -- supplemental evidence being little bits of black crud I found in the sink that smear if I scrub them. The water tastes kinda nasty, but is it actually unhealthy to drink? Any recommended action to take here beyond continuing to run water and hoping to eventually flush it all out? Did you take the aerator off your faucet and check if any of the crud is trapped there?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 17:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 23:59 |
|
|
TacoHavoc posted:Flashing question. I have a bulkhead/bilco door and it was obviously installed with a poo poo flashing job. I am replacing the sheathing and anything underneath, but what is the right way to flash this so it doesn't happen again? The thing that has me unsure is that the previous installer cut out the sheathing around the area where the door lays against the house. This means the lip sits under the osb, as you can see in the picture. I don't understand how to keep the water from getting in the sides when it runs off the top though, since everything is recessed. Any ideas? Start flashing on the bottom left, and work your way up. The flashing you install on the top should be on top of the flashing you've installed on the sides. This is basically the same thing you'd do to install flashing on the top of a window/door, maybe that gives you a useful reference?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 18:35
|
|