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depends on the chemical tbh, that said afaik any bare un-treated resin is going to be poorly-compatible with many things. even if it doesn't chemically-react they still like to absorb liquids, seeing as how they're fairly porous on the micro scale. i've heard of prints warping badly or getting weird and mushy from extended water contact, who knows what'll happen if it's something nastier than water for a cooling system the no-brainer tidiest remedy is to electroplate copper over the entire part- not only do you then get to work with copper's chemical resistance, you also fully halt the UV degradation of the part, which'll degrade any print on the timescale of months-to-years. copper will also help with heat transfer, but i wouldnt expect a thin plating to do much legwork in that regard. you can also use an electroless process for this, which is seemingly easier/less expensive to get into than proper electroplating, although i've never done it myself. iirc it's just one or two bottles of reagent you prepare a bath of, and it'll lay down a thin layer of copper on whatever you immerse in it. this doesn't create a copper surface suitable for stuff like mechanical mates, where friction wear will rapidly cut through the thin plating an electroless bath will usually create, but it's probably fine for something like this that won't get handled at all post-installation e: fwiw i've heard Siraya Tech recommend Sculpt as their most inert resin, broadly speaking, probably because it's full of mica or a similar inert-ish heat-resistant filler Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Sep 28, 2021 |
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Sep 28, 2021 02:48
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Is it normal to have to use a raft on most prints? I've found that if I don't, 90% of the time the first layer will start lifting up and it fucks it all up. This is with PLA and ABS on an Ultimaker S5.
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Sep 28, 2021 13:46
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No, that's not normal at all.
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Sep 28, 2021 18:25
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That tends to happen on beds that get hosed up. You may want to try to get a replacement bed or see if you can get away with a deep clean
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Sep 28, 2021 18:39
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Your print bed is crappy or, z axis is too high, bed is too cool, your filament is bad/wet I'd start with moving your z axis offset down by 0.08mm and bump your bed temp up by 8c, and keep moving the z axis offset down by 0.04 until the problems go away At least, that solved my problem, good luck. To keep the print from lifting up, you need good first layer bed adhesion, which means you need to really squish that first layer into the bed Hadlock fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Sep 28, 2021 |
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Sep 28, 2021 18:39
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Anyone here with the Photon Mono SE? I think I've narrowed that down to be my (resin) printer of choice.
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Sep 28, 2021 18:59
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I have the regular Photon Mono and it's excellent. I've had literally one failed print since I got it about a year ago. I assume the SE is even better.
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Sep 28, 2021 20:14
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Sagebrush posted:I have the regular Photon Mono and it's excellent. I've had literally one failed print since I got it about a year ago. I assume the SE is even better. Cool. What slicers do you use? Is the Photon Workshop thing worth using ?
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Sep 28, 2021 20:57
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I do all the orientation and support generation in PrusaSlicer because I like its interface, export the whole plate with supports as an STL, and use Photon Workshop to slice that and format it for the printer (which takes like 10 seconds because the only settings left to mess with are layer time and pull height). I want to write a drag-and-drop converter that will take exported Prusa files, which are just a ZIP full of PNGs with a text file for the layer settings, and spit out a .pwmo so that I don't even have to use Photon Workshop. Unfortunately the .pwmo format was obfuscated last time I checked and I don't really know where to start decompiling something like that.
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Sep 28, 2021 21:42
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Anyone here with the Photon Mono SE? I think I've narrowed that down to be my (resin) printer of choice. I had one and printed happily on it for months 24/7. It's a great printer.
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Sep 29, 2021 00:02
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Cool. What slicers do you use? Is the Photon Workshop thing worth using ? Just use Lychee
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Sep 29, 2021 00:33
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Seconding lychee, I eventually ran into some problems with workshop and it was more of a pain to use. Automated supports are much better out of the gate with lychee, and scenes don't have a tendency to change orientation, shift position, reset elevation, or dropping supports. Only bad thing I can say about it is that it needs internet connectivity to run (or at least the free version does) so my plan of creating some some *.pwmo's during travel fell through.
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Sep 29, 2021 00:48
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Sagebrush posted:I do all the orientation and support generation in PrusaSlicer because I like its interface, export the whole plate with supports as an STL, and use Photon Workshop to slice that and format it for the printer (which takes like 10 seconds because the only settings left to mess with are layer time and pull height). Not exactly drag-and-drop, but UVtools will open and convert an awful lot of formats. I've never even bothered to learn how to use any of the other functions, but I understand it's a pretty powerful little program for people who want/need whatever else it does, and it's under constant development. https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools
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Sep 29, 2021 01:00
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uvtools is gold, i don't make nearly enough use of it
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Sep 29, 2021 04:12
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Deviant posted:can we talk about why you're still using a creative zen mp3 player in tyool 2021? It's got more space for music than the smartphones, great sound quality and a 3.5mm jack. J/k, I just have it on my shelf as an exhibit among my personal music devices and and needed a custom stand as it has the battery latch on the bottom and won't stand straight on its own. ImplicitAssembler posted:Cool. What slicers do you use? Is the Photon Workshop thing worth using ? Sagebrush posted:What sort of serious mechanical properties? Impact resistance, stiffness, toughness, lubricity, heat resistance, cold resistance? Do you want something that has higher tensile strength, so it holds its shape rigidly but eventually shatters, or something that has a more gradual response to stress, so it bends a bit under load but springs back? This is really to prototype an intake for my car, so I think it needs a bit of stiffness, harness and heat/cold resistance would be needed since it'd be bolted to the head and will have throttle bodies bolted to it, and could experience vacuum or later boost pressure. Modern cars do use plastic parts there so it should be workable in principle.
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Sep 29, 2021 11:02
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Cool. What slicers do you use? Is the Photon Workshop thing worth using ? The printer is great. The slicer is hot garbage. Use literally anything else. (Lychee)
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Sep 29, 2021 14:24
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Would something like this Garolite bed be an upgrade to the, now that I look at it closer, really beat up glass print bed in my Ultimaker S5? Or should I just buy another new glass one. I pretty much just print with PLA, ABS, and TPU.
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Sep 29, 2021 14:41
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On the topic of Lychee and Photon Slicer/Workshop/whatever it's called, I was getting crappy prints using Lychee Slicer to create the .pwmo file. Like, they'd print, but with anti-aliasing turned on, curved surfaces would look like a topical relief map, and with it turned off they'd have layer lines that would give a crappy FDM print cause for concern. After some experimenting, I just did my supports in Lychee, exported the supported file as an .stl, and then opened and sliced it in Photon Workshop, with 8x anti-aliasing turned on. So far the prints off of my Photon Mono have been coming out great using that method. Thought I'd share that just in case anyone else was having the same sort of issue.
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Sep 29, 2021 15:13
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Would something like this Garolite bed be an upgrade to the, now that I look at it closer, really beat up glass print bed in my Ultimaker S5? Or should I just buy another new glass one. I pretty much just print with PLA, ABS, and TPU. Did you buy that from a reseller? You should really be talking to an AE of theirs instead of asking randos on the internet about upgrades for a $6,400 printer. FWIW garolite is primarily used for nylon printing, no idea about applications in printing other than that.
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Sep 29, 2021 15:13
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NewFatMike posted:Did you buy that from a reseller? You should really be talking to an AE of theirs instead of asking randos on the internet about upgrades for a $6,400 printer. We did buy it from a reseller, however I wasn't here when it was bought, I've just inherited it. Ultimaker only make a glass bed for these, so I guess I'll just stick to that then. I'm sure that's what an engineer would say anyway.
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Sep 29, 2021 15:16
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Would something like this Garolite bed be an upgrade to the, now that I look at it closer, really beat up glass print bed in my Ultimaker S5? Or should I just buy another new glass one. I pretty much just print with PLA, ABS, and TPU. Garolite's primary use is to print polyamide (nylon) filaments. PLA/ABS/TPU will stick to garolite with glue stick, but if you aren't printing nylon (and don't intend to), it's not even a sidegrade, it's just Not As Good At The Job.
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Sep 29, 2021 15:17
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Doctor Medic posted:Garolite's primary use is to print polyamide (nylon) filaments. PLA/ABS/TPU will stick to garolite with glue stick, but if you aren't printing nylon (and don't intend to), it's not even a sidegrade, it's just Not As Good At The Job. That's what I needed to know, thank you!
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Sep 29, 2021 16:10
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If you've got the cash to spare, I'd say gently caress it and just go for a full Wham Bam plate setup instead. They make a 355x275 kit specifically for the Ultimaker S5 (not sure why its not in the matterhackers store though).
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Sep 29, 2021 17:15
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wrong thread whoops tools tag was not tools
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Sep 29, 2021 17:22
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https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printinggoeseveron/puzzles-and-props As a DnD nerd this is fun, but as a 3d printing nerd, this scratches all kinds of itches for me I didn't even know I had. I'm not affiliated at all with this campaign, it just seemed to fit the thread pretty much dead on with the mini talk and printing questions. There's a couple of free stls on the page as well, plus an additional pack of monster trophies you can sign up for. Mods, if this is against some rule I dunno about, please feel free to delete. If anyone has any patreon pages or knows where to buy/get more of this kinda stuff, please let me know. I'm about 90% of the way of commissioning a Wand of Watoomb from Dr Strange. I needs all my preciouses...
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Sep 29, 2021 23:09
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There's also a 3D printing for the tabletop thread for anyone wondering. But personally I think it fits here just fine on account of it being cool even if the gaming angle is not of interest, it's still a neat idea from a 3D printing perspective. Very successful campaign, too! Good for them!
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Sep 29, 2021 23:19
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Javid posted:Anybody else notice they have to babysit a little more with cheap filament? I had been using hatchbox but just got one of the 10-packs from gst3d. It seems like the spools aren't wound as well or something, because barely into the first roll, I've had it bind up a few times mid-print. This has happened 0 times ever with hatchbox, even when I let it unwind like a moron; prints with it are otherwise fine, so it's manageable, just weird. Took a couple days but I caught this in action; the filament was getting stuck in the little groove on the aftermarket extruder. Not sure if the filament is less dimensionally stable along the length, or just has a grippier surface on it, but I was able to print a little thing to guide the filament which has eliminated the filament jamming issues, yeehaw 
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Sep 29, 2021 23:33
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Javid posted:Took a couple days but I caught this in action; the filament was getting stuck in the little groove on the aftermarket extruder. Not sure if the filament is less dimensionally stable along the length, or just has a grippier surface on it, but I was able to print a little thing to guide the filament which has eliminated the filament jamming issues, yeehaw That groove was almost certainly worn into the extruder by wear over time, since the filament curls in from above. All-metal extruders will mitigate that to a large extent. Mine also has a little segment of bowden tubing at the filament inlet, so that if anything wears it's the tube which is easy to replace.
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Sep 30, 2021 00:06
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That IS a metal extruder and that groove was there the day it arrived
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Sep 30, 2021 00:57
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Javid posted:That IS a metal extruder and that groove was there the day it arrived That's dumb. I mean I believe you, but that's dumb.
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Sep 30, 2021 01:18
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I don't know why it exists, but it created zero problems with nicer filament, so I'm not blaming the extruder here. If I cared enough to disassemble the thing I'd file it open wider and solve it that way but  with a band-aid that works in place
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Sep 30, 2021 01:23
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When you have a 3D printer then every problem can be solved by adding a cheap plastic part.
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Sep 30, 2021 01:24
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It's just weird because that's specifically a failure mode for plastic extruders. Like, the tension arm breaks and the filament wears a groove that results in binding. Those are the two things that go wrong. I can't imagine why they would purposely put a groove there!
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Sep 30, 2021 01:26
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A couple of my metal extruder arms have a groove, but they’re 100% from wear caused by printing either silk or glow PLA.
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Sep 30, 2021 01:34
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Well now I'm curious, so I dug up the exact cheap clone I ordered and: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W they very carefully DO NOT show that side of the arm in even one photo (to the extent of removing it for all the photos from that angle); somebody's hiding their shame, apparently. Javid fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Sep 30, 2021 |
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Sep 30, 2021 01:57
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This is the one I have - https://macewen3d.com/products/mk8-extruder-aluminum-drive-feed-for-cr-10-cr-10-s4-and-cr-10-s5 (With the stainless steel drive gear)
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Sep 30, 2021 02:16
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Hamburlgar posted:A couple of my metal extruder arms have a groove, but they’re 100% from wear caused by printing either silk or glow PLA. Is silk PLA high wear? If so I had no idea
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Sep 30, 2021 06:00
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The Micro Center $99 Ender 3 Pro deal is live again. It's for new customers only but you're creative, you can figure out a way around that. You'll need to sign up for the coupon, they'll text it to you, and then you just head to your local Micro Center and get one.
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Sep 30, 2021 17:07
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any tips for dealing with stringing? So far I've mostly managed to avoid the problem, most of what I printed didn't matter with stringing. This is prusa default PLA settings, with a hatchbox PLA From left to right here, I've changed settings:
This is a pretty painful process so far. The last one is getting closer, but still not great.
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Sep 30, 2021 17:55
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Bowden or DD?
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Sep 30, 2021 20:13
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