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ImplicitAssembler posted:Bowden or DD? Prusa I3 MK3S+, so it's direct drive
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Sep 30, 2021 20:22
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Got my new Th3d metal board/magnetic sheet installed on my printer. Leveled it with a piece of paper, did the autoleveling mesh deal with the bl level and have been running calibration prints on it. For some odd reason it is struggling on the right side. Is there something I've done wrong, should I post a pic of the hosed print? Any suggestions would be helpful on how to get my printer printing proper. EDIT where it's failing is the nozzle seems to be pushing the print off the bed, which would say it's too close but I've stepped up the z several times to no avail GotDonuts fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Sep 30, 2021 |
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Sep 30, 2021 22:05
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Chainclaw posted:Prusa I3 MK3S+, so it's direct drive Hmm, sure you aren't over extruding? parts cooling fan is on? You shouldn't get any stringing at all.
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Sep 30, 2021 22:16
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Hmm, sure you aren't over extruding? parts cooling fan is on? You shouldn't get any stringing at all. Fan is on and working, I hear it and the self test confirmed it. How can I check if I'm over-extruding, and how would I resolve that?
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Sep 30, 2021 22:27
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Chainclaw posted:Fan is on and working, I hear it and the self test confirmed it. How can I check if I'm over-extruding, and how would I resolve that? https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extrusion-multiplier-calibration_2257/ Something like this.
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Sep 30, 2021 22:28
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GotDonuts posted:Got my new Th3d metal board/magnetic sheet installed on my printer. Leveled it with a piece of paper, did the autoleveling mesh deal with the bl level and have been running calibration prints on it. For some odd reason it is struggling on the right side. Is there something I've done wrong, should I post a pic of the hosed print? Any suggestions would be helpful on how to get my printer printing proper. Textured or smooth? Is the print surface clean? If you touched it and haven't since cleaned it, it's not clean, especially if it's the smooth plate. Isopropyl alcohol for a lightly-soiled sheet, Dawn and warm-hot water if IPA doesn't work. What firmware are you running? Jyers with UBL? Jyers with 5x5? Creality with BL-Touch support? Chainclaw posted:any tips for dealing with stringing? So far I've mostly managed to avoid the problem, most of what I printed didn't matter with stringing. I don't have any Hatchbox to check - what does the spool suggest for a printed temperature? Looking at their site, it appears as though 180-210 is the recommended range - what about trying 195 or so? Do you have another roll of filament with which to try? becoming fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Sep 30, 2021 |
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Sep 30, 2021 22:49
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https://filaments.ca/collections/3d-resin/products/polyjuice-water-washable-resin-grey?variant=30877785096277 Has anyone tried water washable resin? Is water washing only really viable?
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Sep 30, 2021 23:09
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GotDonuts posted:Got my new Th3d metal board/magnetic sheet installed on my printer. Leveled it with a piece of paper, did the autoleveling mesh deal with the bl level and have been running calibration prints on it. For some odd reason it is struggling on the right side. Is there something I've done wrong, should I post a pic of the hosed print? Any suggestions would be helpful on how to get my printer printing proper. On one of my new TH3d Pei sheets, PLA wouldn’t stick to a specific spot, no matter how well I cleaned the surface/what temp I was printing at. I googled pei and bed adhesion and the consensus was to scuff the surface with 600grit or higher sand paper, clean with iso and try again. It worked so well I’ve since done the same to all of my other pei beds.
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Sep 30, 2021 23:10
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Calibrating my prusa mk3s for the first time after building it and it's bumping around calibrating on the front left corner for ages. Is this expected or did I gently caress something up?
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Sep 30, 2021 23:37
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w00tmonger posted:Calibrating my prusa mk3s for the first time after building it and it's bumping around calibrating on the front left corner for ages. Is this expected or did I gently caress something up? it's doing some prusa magic. It will do that for a while, then move to the other four corners eventually and tell you how well you squared the frame to the bed. Just make sure the nozzle isn't touching the heated (they tell you to put paper underneath and turn the power off if it catches).
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Sep 30, 2021 23:43
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The initial calibration takes 20 minutes or something. Just let it do its thing. If it's been doing that for like, an hour or something then yeah you might want to double-check your connections on the inductive sensor etc.
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Sep 30, 2021 23:47
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Has anyone tried water washable resin? Is water washing only really viable? I'm not sure what you're asking in your second question there, but to answer your first question -- I've tried it out and ended up dropping it pretty fast. Yes, it's nice to be able to wash prints without needing IPA, but if you're not going to put the water down the drain (and I really hope you don't) then you still have to go through all the cleanup process as using IPA so you don't really save anything there. The resin is just as toxic as regular resin. When I was printing with it I burned 500ml just trying to get settings correct, and never got to the point where I wasn't having some sort of failure. Reprinting with the same settings would often work, leading to a very frustrating experience. Any hollow pieces had to be dried out with compressed air asap since water would just eat through and crack the pieces. Overall it was just a more frustrating experience all in the name of avoiding IPA.
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Sep 30, 2021 23:49
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And by the way, you can clean water washable resin with IPA still.
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Sep 30, 2021 23:54
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Sagebrush posted:The initial calibration takes 20 minutes or something. Just let it do its thing. Sensors flashing red so it's probably just doing some bullshit
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Sep 30, 2021 23:59
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InternetJunky posted:Any hollow pieces had to be dried out with compressed air asap since water would just eat through and crack the pieces. Overall it was just a more frustrating experience all in the name of avoiding IPA. Ok, more or less what I figured. I'm basically (slowly) planning out my workspace and what to buy and using an ultrasonic cleaner (for water washable) just seemed neater than the largish wash stations. I'll probably DIY the curing station (turn table and some UV LEDs) and may take a similar approach with the washing station.
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Oct 1, 2021 00:02
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becoming posted:Textured or smooth? Is the print surface clean? If you touched it and haven't since cleaned it, it's not clean, especially if it's the smooth plate. Isopropyl alcohol for a lightly-soiled sheet, Dawn and warm-hot water if IPA doesn't work. I am running Jyers 3x3, gonna try to upgrade to jyers 5x5 to see if that helps. I clean with IPA pads that my wife has, prob should use some straight from the bottle with a towel. Also the sheet is textured.
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Oct 1, 2021 00:22
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://filaments.ca/collections/3d-resin/products/polyjuice-water-washable-resin-grey?variant=30877785096277 Yeah, the first bottle of resin I got was e-sun clear water washable while I sorted ipa and a proper cleaning setup. Same process to clean, your run off is just as toxic, but no ipa smell. Worked fine, but no real gain over “normal” resin.
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Oct 1, 2021 00:23
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Calibrated and running great but a little bit loud. Did I goof something? Or are my expectations off vs my silent driver ender 3? Firmware? w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Oct 1, 2021 |
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Oct 1, 2021 00:52
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I really hated the water washable resin when I tried it. Even after thorough dunking and soaking in water there was some residue after curing, and my acrylic primer peeled off the model after awhile. Plus the contaminated water still needs to be disposed of like contaminated IPA, but since it's water and not alcohol it takes forever for it to evaporate. I highly suspect that most people who are using water washable resin aren't properly disposing of it, and probably just flushing it down the drain which is super bad. I'd rather pay more for IPA than use water washable.
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Oct 1, 2021 00:54
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Bucnasti posted:I really hated the water washable resin when I tried it. 10000% people are just dumping water washable down the sink. It's practically in the marketing for it.dony bother with water washable, it's trash
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Oct 1, 2021 00:58
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Bucnasti posted:I'd rather pay more for IPA than use water washable. Yeah this is where I landed. After my first test prints I ended up using ipa any as it resulted in less waste to get it cleaner.
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Oct 1, 2021 01:18
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extrusion-multiplier-calibration_2257/ It wasn't that, I printed two manual test cubes, one at 1 as a baseline and one at 0.98. The 0.98 came out with some issues, and I am happy with how the default extrusion multiplier of 1 came out. becoming posted:I don't have any Hatchbox to check - what does the spool suggest for a printed temperature? Looking at their site, it appears as though 180-210 is the recommended range - what about trying 195 or so? I'm definitely getting different results with different filaments, which says I might have to tune this in per roll, which I'm not looking forward to. The original Prusa brand PLA worked OK but had some stringing with the default settings. My silver roll of Hatchbox I ran out of seemed to string less than this grey. White Hatchbox stringed about the same. The role of glitter red Hatchbox was real bad, I couldn't use the same settings I used for anything else with prints that weren't having issues. I have a roll of rainbow TTYT3D that I haven't been able to get to work much yet, it was a hassle to get the filament into the printer in the first place, and it took 3-4 tries to get the test print to work. My second print failed pretty bad, so I put that roll back on the shelf for now.
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Oct 1, 2021 01:40
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GotDonuts posted:I am running Jyers 3x3, gonna try to upgrade to jyers 5x5 to see if that helps. I clean with IPA pads that my wife has, prob should use some straight from the bottle with a towel. Also the sheet is textured. For my bed, I had significant-enough warping that 3x3 wasn't doing the trick; I decided to go with Unified Bed Leveling (I'm doing 15x15) and set it to a 3x3 tilting probe, which is probably overkill - 2x2 is probably plenty for the tilt. If you haven't read up on it yet, UBL first does a long probing to create a bed mesh; you then save that mesh to EEPROM and change the start gcode in your slicer to load the mesh and then do a probing (3-point, 2x2, or 3x3) which tilts that mesh. This has been working like magic for me.
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Oct 1, 2021 01:45
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w00tmonger posted:Calibrated and running great but a little bit loud. Did I goof something? Or are my expectations off vs my silent driver ender 3? Did you turn on Stealth mode in the menu? The steppers are in normal mode by default. There might also be a gcode you can use to enable it, I'm not sure.
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Oct 1, 2021 02:24
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Did you turn on Stealth mode in the menu? The steppers are in normal mode by default. There might also be a gcode you can use to enable it, I'm not sure. Not in stealth mode but I did see it. Should u be running in stealth mode generally? Things extremely loud compared to my silent ender 3 that I upgraded the board on
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Oct 1, 2021 02:35
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I basically never use stealth mode because it's not that loud in normal mode and the steppers lose some features like crash detection in stealth mode.
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Oct 1, 2021 02:42
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w00tmonger posted:Not in stealth mode but I did see it. Should u be running in stealth mode generally? Things extremely loud compared to my silent ender 3 that I upgraded the board on I don't run stealth mode ever and I'd say that my MK3S+ is quieter than both my Ender 3 v2 and my Ender 3 Pro (v4.2.2 boards). Post a video, we'll tell you whether it's normal.
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Oct 1, 2021 02:46
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becoming posted:I don't run stealth mode ever and I'd say that my MK3S+ is quieter than both my Ender 3 v2 and my Ender 3 Pro (v4.2.2 boards). Post a video, we'll tell you whether it's normal. https://youtu.be/uUip88g6NEg Here's my Shame. I'm thinking maybe the belts are tensioned too hard?
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Oct 1, 2021 03:18
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gently caress me I'm dumb as hell I figured it out. I'm running it on my kitchen counter so it's echoing in the cavity of the drawers
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Oct 1, 2021 03:46
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So there was a $200 Ender 3 v2 on amazon, usable with aesthetic damage and serviced by amazon w/ the amazon return policy. So I figured, what the hell? I'll see if I can get it working and return it if not. So it's here. The only aesthetic damage is from having been assembled and disassembled before, by someone who clearly tried and failed to print a yoda buddha based on the green filament in the extruder and the file they left on the included sdcard. And I cannot get PLA to stick to the bed. I've cleaned it and tried levelling the bed with paper for hours with a guide; I've tried levelling till I could feel the gentlest touch on the paper, and levelling until I could barely move it. And in every case I just end up spinning a nest of PLA on the extruder which never even thinks about sticking to the glass. The bed isn't perfectly flat I think but I don't think that explains why I can't even get something to start correctly where it should have been the right height for at least one of my test prints yesterday. And on some of these test prints the bed is definitely no longer how I levelled it after the print failure. Is it just the whole situation with the lovely springs? Given the open box nature of this thing and the amazon return policy I had kind of resolved going in that I was just going to return it if it gave me problems rather than spend money fixing it. And I don't think getting the first layer of my first print should be giving me such a headache. I followed the guide and I've never gotten any of these outcomes, just a bunch of filament stuck to the extruder:  I'm using PLA+ from GST3d at the stock PLA preheat settings, 60/200. poverty goat fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Oct 1, 2021 |
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Oct 1, 2021 12:33
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poverty goat posted:So there was a $200 Ender 3 v2 on amazon, usable with aesthetic damage and serviced by amazon w/ the amazon return policy. So I figured, what the hell? I'll see if I can get it working and return it if not. I had this problem until I slowed down the first layer.
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Oct 1, 2021 12:42
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w00tmonger posted:https://youtu.be/uUip88g6NEg w00tmonger posted:gently caress me I'm dumb as hell I figured it out. lol I was gonna say, my man that's not the printer, that's whatever it's sitting on 
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Oct 1, 2021 13:10
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SEKCobra posted:I had this problem until I slowed down the first layer. tried this, didn't help I'm pretty sure the bed is slightly warped on one diagonal, because whacky things happen along that axis where the other 3 will be in perfect harmony and suddenly the fourth is so far out of whack that it needs a large correction, ruining everything. And between the home corner and the next corner clockwise the tip drags when the corners are correct. So it seems like at the very least it needs a levelling sensor and/or a new bed. But I'm not sure that explains everything. Someone also said the nozzle might be clogged. poverty goat fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Oct 1, 2021 |
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Oct 1, 2021 13:54
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Put a bunch of glue stick on the bed. If you can get the plastic to stick at all, you might be able to evaluate exactly how unlevel the bed is. Also it might just be that there's something wrong with the bed surface and the glue just fixes it.
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Oct 1, 2021 16:34
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://filaments.ca/collections/3d-resin/products/polyjuice-water-washable-resin-grey?variant=30877785096277 I didn't have very good luck with the water washable stuff I tried. It "worked," but seemed kind of finicky, whereas I've barely ever had to really futz around with settings or deal with failed prints on other resins. Seems kind of pointless now that IPA is back in stock and widely available all over the place, to be honest.
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Oct 1, 2021 16:39
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poverty goat posted:tried this, didn't help welcome to owning an e3v2. you might even fix your issue for a print or two, and then it'll come back. you'll definitely have new issues come up
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Oct 1, 2021 17:03
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Just get a new bed, the included one is junk. I know that's not exactly the greatest thing to tell someone who's just plunked down a considerable amount of disposable cash, but the E3v2 has a fair few of these issues that can only be resolved by replacing parts with less bad ones 
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Oct 1, 2021 17:39
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Ghostnuke posted:welcome to owning an e3v2. you might even fix your issue for a print or two, and then it'll come back. you'll definitely have new issues come up This printer was returned by someone else to amazon before, and sold to me as usable w/ aesthetic damage and no box, but the only aesthetic damage is the crushing sense of having wasted the last several hours and $200, and it's not usable. Still on the checklist actually is taking apart the extruder, or maybe a cold pull. Part of the problem earlier I think was that when the tip was too high it was acting like it was too high, but when it was probably about right it was curling up on itself immediately. I figured this out by stepping down through the whole z-offset range a bit at the time and realizing it went directly from looking and acting like it was too high to making funnel cakes to pinching off at bed level. I'm leaning toward just calling the experiment a failure, returning this one possibly cursed printer to amazon and spending the money on a better printer if I can't get it to print one thing poverty goat fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Oct 1, 2021 |
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Oct 1, 2021 18:07
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Glue on bed! Glue on bed! I don't know why people are so opposed to the idea of using glue! It works every single time and will remove one factor that is preventing you from identifying other problems with the machine.
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Oct 1, 2021 18:18
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Sagebrush posted:Glue on bed! Glue on bed! i will try the glue my dude just don't ask me to spend another hour levelling the bed
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Oct 1, 2021 18:30
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