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biracial bear for uncut posted:An MSDS is, however, a head's up document that you should take precautions. They are also all written from the perspective of the reader being properly trained in basic safety precautions when handling or working with industrial chemicals and substances. I didn't miss anything in Elegoo's MSDS, but I don't know why you're reading my original post as "I think resin is safe and people are being too cautious" instead of "I think resin is dangerous and wish there was more data on the specific risks." You've got this weird aggro tone going on when my whole point is that I'm uncomfortable with how casually resin printing is treated. If anything, my concern is that literally all home precautions are likely to be inadequate if there's actually a severe danger from inhalation, and that people who build homemade cabinets may be lulling themselves into a false sense of security.
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Oct 4, 2021 15:49
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Paradoxish posted:I didn't miss anything in Elegoo's MSDS, but I don't know why you're reading my original post as "I think resin is safe and people are being too cautious" instead of "I think resin is dangerous and wish there was more data on the specific risks." You've got this weird aggro tone going on when my whole point is that I'm uncomfortable with how casually resin printing is treated. It's a very common argument in this thread whenever the subject comes up and somebody provides links to the usual suspects in the Youtube 3d printing hobby arena posting videos about how toxic resins are and how you shouldn't use them without PPE. Usually "Nobody published a study yet about resins giving people cancer, so it must be safe, right?" or some similarly asinine remark about how they handle resin all the time while taking risks and are just fine, so everyone else should be fine, too. Also here's this edit from my previous post so it doesn't get lost in the page break. biracial bear for uncut posted:I know home hobbyists like to play fast and loose with safety precautions vs. how things would work if you were exposed to these things throughout a work shift at a company (assuming it isn't run by cartoonishly evil people), but resin printing has been around since the 1970s and every industrial setup you may encounter about it will have specific respiratory PPE recommendations. I see no reason why this wouldn't hold true for someone hotboxing their resin printer in their living space.
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Oct 4, 2021 15:56
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Usually "Nobody published a study yet about resins giving people cancer, so it must be safe, right?" or some similarly asinine remark about how they handle resin all the time while taking risks and are just fine, so everyone else should be fine, too. That's cool and all, but I have no idea how you got that from my post calling resin printing "disconcerting."
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Oct 4, 2021 16:06
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Javid posted:if she's crammed in that close with it, why can't she just manually turn off the switch when it's stopped printing? Two years in, and I still can't get other household members to turn a printer off.
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Oct 4, 2021 17:52
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Nerobro posted:Two years in, and I still can't get other household members to turn a printer off. Wading into E/N... Yeah I can't even get my wife to refill the brita pitcher in the fridge So far she's tolerating my toy, I just printed a cake topper for our kids birthday cake so that went over well, but invading her space + making her manage my toy is a bit much. Martial bliss and all that
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Oct 4, 2021 18:12
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Hadlock posted:Martial bliss Nice Freudian slip.
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Oct 4, 2021 18:25
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Paradoxish posted:If anything, my concern is that literally all home precautions are likely to be inadequate if there's actually a severe danger from inhalation, and that people who build homemade cabinets may be lulling themselves into a false sense of security. This is the decision I'm trying to make at the moment: Do I just need PPE when handling the stuff?. Printer will be enclosed, but also trying to figure out if I need to vent the enclosure outside or if a carbon filter will suffice. Googling goes from 'you'll be fine' to 'you'll die!' and the MSDS are not exactly clear. "Don't breathe fumes". Sure, but what defines fumes in that context?.
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Oct 4, 2021 19:05
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Yeah I'm curious about this too. I have my printer in the garage, which has some vents but nothing spectacular. When I go in there I can smell the resin. Am I killing my braincells being in the same room?
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Oct 4, 2021 19:16
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Sure, but what defines fumes in that context?. MSDS Glossary of Terms from a basic overview course posted:A fume or fumes refers to vapors (gases), dusts and/or smoke given off by a substance as a result of a chemical transformation such as reaction, heating, explosion or detonation. In the context of 3d printing, it's the substance given off during the chemical reaction of the resin curing while exposed to UV light in the printer. Which is why I go back to my previous remark that if you can smell the resin, and if the smell intensifies when printing, you are dealing with a toxic fume development and need to ventilate the room and get the gently caress out of there. Bucnasti posted:Yeah I'm curious about this too. It's less killing brain cells and more damaging the mucus membranes in your nose/throat/etc. The results are less immediately dramatic because the exposure ppm in the room/garage/whatever is lower than if someone were to literally snort resin into their sinuses with a straw (for an extreme example of the way you'd get a real good look at the kind of damage done), but damage is a cumulative thing when it comes to chemical exposures (which is why you occasionally read someone mentioning developing a resin sensitivity in this thread and in other places). Don't gently caress around carelessly with resin.
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Oct 4, 2021 19:37
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Nerobro posted:Two years in, and I still can't get other household members to turn a printer off. If I were you I'd buy a cheap outlet timer and set it before starting the print, padding the completion time a little bit. I'm a little fancier and have homeassistant + a zwave outlet that I can automate based on time or current.
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Oct 4, 2021 20:00
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Hadlock posted:Wading into E/N... I'm trying really hard not to sound harsh, but seriously?????  From your description it sounds like it's already in reach and all she has to do it reach over and flick a switch. If it's as annoying as you say, I am surprised she hasn't done that already. But, if moving her arm 6 inches is too much to ask, then going simple with a christmas light timer, or a wifi/bluetooth smart socket that you can program are good options. E: goddamn it!!!!!! ^^^^^
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Oct 4, 2021 20:00
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Not to second-guess your housing situation or whatever, but I would be quite irritated if I had my 3D printer right beside my computer as I was trying to talk to people on Zoom. A Prusa is quiet but it's not silent. Can you not move it into another room, or at least onto the floor in the corner?
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Oct 4, 2021 20:36
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Hey, maybe he has the wife on the floor in the corner with her laptop on zoom meetings, you don't know.
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Oct 4, 2021 20:50
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My printer is hooked up to Octoprint and plugged into an outlet with a TP-Link smart plug. I'm using a plugin cleverly named TP-Link Smartplug that will let Octoprint turn off the printer after a set inactive time (mine is 15 minutes). edit - By this I mean that the way I have my printer setup is that it will print like normal and then once the printer has been idle for 15 minutes, the Octoprint plugin will turn the printer off. YouTubeTekReviewer fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Oct 4, 2021 |
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Oct 4, 2021 20:55
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He’s literally talking about his wife being irritated by the sound the main board/PSU fan is making after a print is finished. If something like that irritated me, I’d turn the machine off vOv
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Oct 4, 2021 21:04
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Since FB is down I'm trying to think of other jokes to make about the "Martial bliss" vs. "Marital Bliss" typo.
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Oct 4, 2021 21:08
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Hamburlgar posted:He’s literally talking about his wife being irritated by the sound the main board/PSU fan is making after a print is finished. Hadlock's got an Ender 3 v2; I suspect the irritation is actually with the heat break fan, which is terribly loud in my experience, and runs whenever the printer is powered on. Or is that another area where my E3v2 is hosed up and not normal? (Not talking about the parts cooling fan, operates as expected.)
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Oct 4, 2021 21:12
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Sagebrush posted:Not to second-guess your housing situation or whatever, but I would be quite irritated if I had my 3D printer right beside my computer as I was trying to talk to people on Zoom. A Prusa is quiet but it's not silent. Can you not move it into another room, or at least onto the floor in the corner? We live downtown so we're moderately space confined. I think I have a post here talking about buying one of those belt printers so I can wall mount it in the office closet. She was on maternity leave when I bought the thing so I had exclusive use of the office and it ended up living near her workstation area since she wasn't actively using it for 8 months and now that's changed I had just assumed the answer was "yes, just append a 'halt --force' to the end of your gcode" or "check this hidden box, I don't know why they hide it" response, if that was the case seems like an easier solution than training my wife to interact with an object she already just barely tolerates Also my day job is effectively automating other people's jobs out of existence, to me, adding new unneeded work to an environment is
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Oct 4, 2021 21:14
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becoming posted:Hadlock's got an Ender 3 v2; I suspect the irritation is actually with the heat break fan, which is terribly loud in my experience, and runs whenever the printer is powered on. Or is that another area where my E3v2 is hosed up and not normal? (Not talking about the parts cooling fan, operates as expected.) That's kinda of old-school on setups. Most of my older printers (circa 2014 machines) just have the heat break fan wired directly to the incoming power for the control board (since it's 12v off the power supply, and the fans are 12v, it's "safe" and takes the thought process out of it). I know that the heat break fan on my Prusa Mini (  ) only comes on when the hotend gets above a certain temperature and shuts back off when it is below a certain temperature (and the PSU doesn't have fans on the Mini, being a laptop-style power brick).This is handled via wiring and hard coded operating limits on the firmware side of things, though, IIRC (though you should be able to do this with any old Marlin compiler and knowing how to map fan definitions to specific pins in the board). Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Oct 4, 2021 |
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Oct 4, 2021 21:20
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Hence why having the person who cares flip one manual switch is the most efficient solution, imo
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Oct 4, 2021 21:23
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biracial bear for uncut posted:That's kinda of old-school on setups. Most of my older printers (circa 2014 machines) just have the heat break fan wired directly to the incoming power for the control board (since it's 12v off the power supply, and the fans are 12v, it's "safe" and takes the thought process out of it). Yeah, my MK3S+ is silent when idle, so it was a rude awakening to get the E3v2 and have a ~60dB fan going at all times. I don't care enough that I've looked into solving this particular problem, but I absolutely understand why Hadlock's wife wouldn't want it going on in the same room as her Zoom sessions.
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Oct 4, 2021 21:42
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 Not bad for $9/kg
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Oct 4, 2021 21:47
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I have also had people on conference calls ask what that noise is when I was in the same room as my running Prusa Mini. Putting a heavy tile under it damped it way down and people don't hear it now.
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Oct 4, 2021 22:05
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poo poo that's awesome. Where'd you get the stl?
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Oct 4, 2021 22:15
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqlP5ar3LkE This is neat. Been thinking of doing the same.
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Oct 5, 2021 00:19
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ImplicitAssembler posted:This is the decision I'm trying to make at the moment: Do I just need PPE when handling the stuff?. Printer will be enclosed, but also trying to figure out if I need to vent the enclosure outside or if a carbon filter will suffice. Yeah, this is what I mean. My resin printer is off in the corner of an extremely large and basically unused room with pretty decent ventilation. I have a fairly ghetto fume hood set up around it that can exhaust outside, but "does it smell?" is a pretty lovely test. The only time I ever smell anything over there is when I'm pouring fresh resin. Even my cheapo Sonic Mini (non-4k) doesn't emit any detectable odors with the lid on while it's running, at least not from anything like a reasonable distance. Does that mean my set up is "safe?" Who the gently caress knows. I suspect there's no really detectable odor only because the printer is already in a large room with decent ventilation, so it doesn't really have an opportunity to stink up the place. But I can't know what my level of exposure is and I can't know what an actual safe level of exposure might be.
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Oct 5, 2021 02:15
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Javid posted:I feel like that still amounts to a few hundred bucks, with resin and the rest of the assembly line and other startup costs included, so it's not THAT cheap. Still *pretty* cheap. Not really. If you have a prime account, you can get some decent resin for as little as 16 bucks for 500 grams. A bottle of IPA is about a dollar or two tops, a glass jar for washing is maybe a buck if that. A 10 pack of nitrile gloves is about 3 bucks at a big box store like Walmart (usually in the cleaning stuff aisle), and the sun is perfectly fine to cure things with. If the printer is 60, that's still less than a hundred by the time you buy everything. Hell, even popping a turkey roasting pan down to sit the printer in just in case it leaks just adds maybe 3 bucks to it.
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Oct 5, 2021 02:17
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In a moment of thoughtlessness I accidently poured some alcohol I was using to clean my FEP into my resin bottle instead of the bucket I use for waste liquids. I'm assuming the resin is ruined, but I just wanted to check if anyone knew definitively either way.
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Oct 5, 2021 04:55
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Well functionally it's just a little watered down now, right? I'd just shake it up real good and try a few prints with it. Worst that happens is they don't work and yeah you have to throw it away. But maybe it still prints just fine.
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Oct 5, 2021 05:06
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If it's well and truly ruined, assuming no other volatile compounds (lol) you could heat it to 178 degrees for 10 minutes and boil off the alcohol Note: if your resin has any compounds with a boiling point below 178 you may not live to see the end result  The more I think about resin printers in a residential setting, the more it seems like a terrible idea
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Oct 5, 2021 05:22
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Hadlock posted:If it's well and truly ruined, assuming no other volatile compounds (lol) you could heat it to 178 degrees for 10 minutes and boil off the alcohol While I'm generally of the opinion that gloves are sufficient, don't do this. I'm most familiar with the acrylic resins (very common, but epoxy resins are also quite common for 3d printing, and I can't really comment on them), but the acrylic monomers are reasonably volatile, with many being more volatile than water. To pick a couple of nice examples, methyl acrylate has a very similar boiling point to isopropanol and a vapor pressure 3-4x that of water. Acrylic acid, while having a relatively low vapor pressure (call it ~1/5 of water), has the additional pleasantry of being corrosive. The vapors are going to be flammable. They're also sensitizing agents in some people, meaning that you get a stronger reaction after subsequent exposures.
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Oct 5, 2021 06:39
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Class Warcraft posted:In a moment of thoughtlessness I accidently poured some alcohol I was using to clean my FEP into my resin bottle instead of the bucket I use for waste liquids. I'm assuming the resin is ruined, but I just wanted to check if anyone knew definitively either way. I'd err on the side of caution and just (properly) dispose of it and get a new bottle. Take it as a learning experience. Some of my most memorable learning experiences cost me more than a few bucks, but I drat sure never forgot them after that
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Oct 5, 2021 14:46
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Class Warcraft posted:In a moment of thoughtlessness I accidently poured some alcohol I was using to clean my FEP into my resin bottle instead of the bucket I use for waste liquids. I'm assuming the resin is ruined, but I just wanted to check if anyone knew definitively either way. How much is "some"? If it's a few drops it will be fine. How much was in the bottle?if you poured more than a few ounces I would toss it. You could also pour it out into something and see what it looks like, but it'd probably be safer to dump it.
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Oct 5, 2021 14:54
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I've been going steadily insane with my second-hand MakerBot Replicator 2 (running Octoprint). Basically what happens is it prints a layer (or two) and then just seems to stop extruding. The head's still scooting about but just adding nothing to the build. I pulled the print head apart, cleared out the gripper/guide wheel, no improvement. I've had this issue for a long-rear end time and I'm now starting to wonder if there's something wrong with my slicer configuration. Unfortunately this thing is "of unknown provenance" as Ferrari would say - I can't speak for the specific extruder installed on this machine but the tensioner appears to not have any adjustability, complicating matters. Any suggestions/recommendations anyone can make would be helpful. Details: MakerBot Replicator 2 featuring unknown/unlabeled non-OEM print head (I watched a "tensioner adjustment" video on YouTube and my print-head isn't the same as that one, this is my basis for saying it's non-standard) OctoPrint connected via USB on a Raspberry Pi 3 Heated glass print surface This PLA filament, which I've used in the past with some success Print temperature: 220c 1st layer, 215 afterwards Print bed temperature: 75c all layers Enclosure open Sliced with PrusaSlicer v2.3.3+win64-202107161027 sarcastx fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Oct 5, 2021 |
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Oct 5, 2021 16:33
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sarcastx posted:MakerBot Replicator 2 Found the problem. But seriously, you will spend more time and money keeping a Makerbot running than you will just getting a different printer. Alternatively, see if leaving the temp at 220C the entire print will make a difference. It may be that the hotend temperature sensor is garbage and you're having to run "hotter" than you should just to reach actual PLA temps and that 5-degrees C is enough to cause a problem.
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Oct 5, 2021 17:42
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That happened on one of my machines when the extruder motor was extension wire gave out. It would print fine with the ‘extrude’ command as well as do the first layer or so. I diagnosed the issue by swapping wires over to different stepper motors, so I knew the motors weren’t shot.
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Oct 5, 2021 17:43
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Doctor Zero posted:How much is "some"? If it's a few drops it will be fine. How much was in the bottle?if you poured more than a few ounces I would toss it. You could also pour it out into something and see what it looks like, but it'd probably be safer to dump it. About 2oz of alcohol into about 1/4th liter of resin. I'm thinking I should just play it safe and throw it out. -- Welp, now in the market for new resin! I've just been using basic anycubic grey resin but I don't like how brittle it is - anyone have any resin recommendations? Mostly printing 28mm miniatures.
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Oct 5, 2021 19:11
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SirayaTech Fast gray has been fantastic for me. Great detail and just a little bit of bend.
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Oct 5, 2021 19:46
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Toebone posted:SirayaTech Fast gray has been fantastic for me. Great detail and just a little bit of bend. Seconding this, I primarily used their Simple resin, but recently got a bottle of Fast gray and have been very impressed with it thus far.
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Oct 5, 2021 21:48
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Class Warcraft posted:About 2oz of alcohol into about 1/4th liter of resin. I'm thinking I should just play it safe and throw it out. I really like Phrozen Aqua Gray 4k. It's got a nice color, and is pretty flexible.
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Oct 6, 2021 12:20
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