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tater_salad posted:I don't think gluing the shoovac to the cleaner is going to get you your desired result. wesleywillis posted:Don't listen to this guy, he don't know nothing It’s literally how professional tile cleaning systems work. Eg https://youtu.be/b5Lb61O71b4 CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Oct 9, 2021 |
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Oct 9, 2021 23:38
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Yes I agree. Make sure to film it. I wanna do it with mine but I'm afraid the 3000psi may be too high so curious how well it works with your system!.
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Oct 9, 2021 23:42
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tater_salad posted:Yes I agree. Make sure to film it. I wanna do it with mine but I'm afraid the 3000psi may be too high so curious how well it works with your system!. Will do. Plan is to start on the floors and walls of my goon-level shower filth.
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Oct 10, 2021 03:55
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someone is asking me if I want this jointer for free before it gets scrapped: My instincts say no, but I might be wrong. Is this thing worth any effort?
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Oct 11, 2021 00:59
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CommonShore posted:someone is asking me if I want this jointer for free before it gets scrapped: Really dependent on the type of work you're doing. I mean, is it cool as hell? Yes. Would it make a fun project? Yes. So really the only question left to ask is if you will ever actually use the thing.
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Oct 11, 2021 01:57
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How good of condition is it in? If it isn't usable, how willing are you to take on the project of rehabilitating it? And how willing are you to have a really heavy hunk of metal taking up space during that time?
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Oct 11, 2021 02:00
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I know that picture and little else. Apparently the blades still look good?
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Oct 11, 2021 02:41
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CommonShore posted:I know that picture and little else. Apparently the blades still look good? Hard to tell scale from that picture, but it looks like maybe a 6" delta or 4" craftsman and they are pretty good jointers. IDK how flat everything will be after you clean the rust off or how shot the motor will be after living outside (maybe there isn't even a motor? An old 1/2 hp fan motor would probably work fine) but if you have space it could be a fun project. If you've never used/set up a jointer before, getting it set up might be extra frustrating.
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Oct 11, 2021 13:27
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Hard to tell scale from that picture, but it looks like maybe a 6" delta or 4" craftsman and they are pretty good jointers. IDK how flat everything will be after you clean the rust off or how shot the motor will be after living outside (maybe there isn't even a motor? An old 1/2 hp fan motor would probably work fine) but if you have space it could be a fun project. If you've never used/set up a jointer before, getting it set up might be extra frustrating. I think it's 6". I'll take the time to take a closer look, then. I think it runs off of an external motor and belt, and I actually have an extra motor around from an old bandsaw that I bought and plan to junk.
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Oct 11, 2021 15:24
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You could always use it as a planer.
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Oct 11, 2021 15:29
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I'm not crazy, right? This chain is installed correctly?
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Oct 11, 2021 15:46
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Thanks everyone for the table recommendations. I didn't know about the nails in it, I'll leave it in one piece for sure. CommonShore posted:someone is asking me if I want this jointer for free before it gets scrapped: Have you done large-scale rust removal before? To get that back in useable shape you'll need: -angle grinder -wire wheel(s) -socket wrenches for disassembly -chemical rust stripper (+gloves, goggles, applicators) -level or straightedge -Sharpening stones -surface protection oil (plus many more tools if say a pulley is frozen onto a shaft) You'll also need a motor if the correct speed and a pulley to fit that motor that is the correct diameter. You'll need to mount it to a bench of some kind and you'll need to replace the belt. It's completely 100% doable, but if you don't have an accompanying hobby of "machine tool restoration" then that might be a pretty large task to undertake.
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Oct 11, 2021 15:49
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm not crazy, right? This chain is installed correctly? It’s not flipped around, if that’s what you’re asking.
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Oct 11, 2021 15:54
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm not crazy, right? This chain is installed correctly? You're good!
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Oct 11, 2021 15:56
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm not crazy, right? This chain is installed correctly? cool little icon on the bar says YES.
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Oct 11, 2021 16:16
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Ok because I am having a devil of a time cutting a log. I just got this chainsaw and this is the first time I'm using it. I bought that cool chainsaw blade sharpener everyone likes and used it. When I put the chainsaw to the log, I get wood chips, but as soon as I'm more than half an inch into the wood it's smoking. The chain gets loose quickly (less than a minute) and I have to pull the side panel off and reset the bar, chain, etc. I can't seem to get a straight-through cut at all. Am I just terrible at using a chainsaw, is it possible this wood is binding really strongly, or is there some third option?
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Oct 11, 2021 16:27
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Was the chain new and you sharpened it immediately? You don’t need to do that. In either case, you may need to grab a file and a depth gauge. You’ve got bar and chain oil in there, yeah?
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Oct 11, 2021 16:31
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Is that a Ryobi? I have the 12" 18v brushless and it's exceeded my expectations. Made short work of bucking some trees that my buddy and I felled. The only times I had the chain come loose were once when I didn't tension it properly and once when it was bound up by the log due to gravity.
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Oct 11, 2021 16:33
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Take off the cover plate, bar, and chain, and make sure there isn’t sawdust and oil sludge preventing anything from seating fully. That can be a cause of the chain coming off. Scrub the crud out with a brush if you have to.
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Oct 11, 2021 16:38
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Ok because I am having a devil of a time cutting a log. Run the saw perpendicular (point the tip of the bar) in front of a piece of cardboard. Do you see a line of oil getting slung off? If not, your saw is not oiling properly and you're destroying (or already have destroyed) the chain and bar.
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Oct 11, 2021 16:46
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Uncle Enzo posted:Thanks everyone for the table recommendations. I didn't know about the nails in it, I'll leave it in one piece for sure. I have lots of those things and I'm willing to get the ones that I lack. I'll go take a closer look. If the rust is surface and not pitted I'll go for it.
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Oct 11, 2021 16:49
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1. It was not a brand new saw/chain, which is why I sharpened it (bought it used). I used this thing (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047A0RUC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) 2. Ryboi 14" 40v brushless. Bought it because all the reviews were solid 3. I removed the plate, bar, and chain. Wiped out all the gunk I could. It seems sit squarely when I put it together 4. It flings oil out. I can see the splatter pattern on the log I'm cutting If I get a chance later I'll try to get a video of me using it and you guys can tell me how my form/technique is wrong
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Oct 11, 2021 17:07
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The Wonder Weapon posted:1. It was not a brand new saw/chain, which is why I sharpened it (bought it used). I used this thing (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047A0RUC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) You might want to just get a new chain, who knows what the previous owner put it through. Then take care of it properly. Everything else seems fine and I doubt you're doing anything wrong.
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Oct 11, 2021 17:18
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wandler20 posted:You might want to just get a new chain, who knows what the previous owner put it through. Then take care of it properly. Everything else seems fine and I doubt you're doing anything wrong. Agreed. That's always a good first move on diagnosing a saw issue like this once you've confirmed you have oiling, but in this case if it's making good chips and then causing issues part of the way thought I would also check the bar for wear. If the channels have been hogged out the chain can kinda just flop over and cause what you have going on here. You may even want to try a quick test of simply flipping the bar over so your cutting side is now what used to be the top (they are reversible, this is fine, in fact you should flip it every time you change the chain to keep the wear even). Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Oct 11, 2021 |
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Oct 11, 2021 17:43
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Tools: Zen and the Art of Chainsaw Maintenance
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Oct 11, 2021 17:45
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Motronic posted:Agreed. That's always a good first move on diagnosing a saw issue like this once you've confirmed you have oiling, but in this case if it's making good chips and then causing issues part of the way thought I would also check the bar for wear. If the channels have been hogged out the chain can kinda just flop over and cause what you have going on here. You may even want to try a quick test of simply flipping the bar over so your cutting side is now what used to be the top (they are reversible, this is fine, in fact you should flip it every time you change the chain to keep the wear even). Huh. Never thought of that. Good tip. 
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Oct 11, 2021 22:40
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OK, I managed to get a chance to record earlier. Here I am trying to do a fresh cut. You'll it starts smoking very quickly. I try to cut for awhile in the middle, which is boring, but the very end of it you can see that the cut has curved through the log. What the hell am I doing? https://youtu.be/w9ESM6fOD2Y
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Oct 12, 2021 01:43
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Looks like it's pulling to one side and binding in the cut. As mentioned above, first thing I'd check is the depth gauges (a.k.a. "rakers" but I'm a terrible pedant and this isn't a ripping chain and they aren't). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQZHEqNvPCk The Pferd jig will file the depth gauges automatically but one sharpening won't fix anything if the previous owner never touched them. If they're too high the chain won't bite properly so you get sawdust and the occasional chip if you dance the bar around like you were doing. Second thing I'd check is the bar rails. If there are any chips, worn spots or folded over edges the chain will tend to flop over and pull to one side. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcwQJNwckTo Make sure to check your bar is in good shape before you put a new chain on it otherwise you're just going to trash the new chain. (Do not ask me how I know this.) Your chain looks a little tighter than I prefer, but that conversation usually goes as well as your favourite flavour of Linux. 
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Oct 12, 2021 02:20
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The Wonder Weapon posted:OK, I managed to get a chance to record earlier. Here I am trying to do a fresh cut. You'll it starts smoking very quickly. I try to cut for awhile in the middle, which is boring, but the very end of it you can see that the cut has curved through the log. What the hell am I doing? Get a new chain. It's possible there is something else going on, but that just seems like a hosed up, dull chain to me and new chain is where I'd start. It's a good to have 2 chains anyway. Is the log you're cutting old and dry, or is it pretty freshly cut? Chainsaws cut wet, green wood best and can have trouble with dry wood that has gotten harder. In terms of technique, keep the log butted up against the saw body and use that as a lever to rotate the saw through the wood. Not only is it easier and more efficient for the saw to cut, it's much, much, much safer. Cuts made near the tip of the bar are much more dangerous. Bigger gas saws usually have some metal teeth called bucking spikes/dogs to the left of the bar you can jab in the bark and make it even easier, but even without them, keep the body of the saw next to the log. Then the chain is trying to pull itself into the log against the saw body and there is no chance of you slipping/tripping and running the saw into your leg. It's also 300% less work and your arms will thank you. Right way to buck logs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dN1rxtqL-f8&t=189s
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Oct 12, 2021 03:00
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OP, I suggest one of these:
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Oct 12, 2021 03:14
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This is a stupid question but do you have bar oil in it? Seconding the rakers. The electric chainsaws usually have some short of weird safety chain that helps prevent kickback. Sometimes it can be a hassle to get the teeth to bite if the rakers have not been filed down at a similar rate. The Pferd/Stihl combination tooth and raker file has always worked well for me.
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Oct 12, 2021 03:39
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The Wonder Weapon posted:OK, I managed to get a chance to record earlier. Here I am trying to do a fresh cut. You'll it starts smoking very quickly. I try to cut for awhile in the middle, which is boring, but the very end of it you can see that the cut has curved through the log. What the hell am I doing? New bar, new chain. Done. Throw the other ones in the trash, it's not worth figuring out which one is at fault. Somebody ran it without oil and both are probably trashed. Buy 2 chains while you're at it. Bars and chains are consumables and should be changed frequently.
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Oct 12, 2021 14:28
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Tell me your thoughts on electric leaf blowers. I have not been a leaf blower user before but am considering. I have either Ryobi 40v or Dewalt 20v batteries to choose from for this. Are the electric ones up to par now? Any big difference between those 2 brands / models to avoid etc?
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Oct 12, 2021 14:31
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That Works posted:Tell me your thoughts on electric leaf blowers. I have not been a leaf blower user before but am considering. I have the Dewalt Flexvolt one and it's great. I can't really say for the 20v version though but having a 9AH Flexvolt battery in your arsenal isn't ever a bad thing.
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Oct 12, 2021 15:06
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I've got a 40V Greenworks leaf blower (that doubles as a leaf vacuum) and it works great, so I can say that electric leaf blowers can be good, but I have no specific experience with either of those brands. I think a 40V battery of equivalent size to a 20V is going to last longer, so depending on your yard size you might want to go with the 40V option rather than a 20V option (assuming Dewalt even makes any 20V yard tools).
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Oct 12, 2021 15:14
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i like my ego leaf blower. even works on yard debris.
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Oct 12, 2021 16:36
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Alright, I will buy a new chain and bar and report back.
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Oct 12, 2021 22:02
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wandler20 posted:I have the Dewalt Flexvolt one and it's great. I can't really say for the 20v version though but having a 9AH Flexvolt battery in your arsenal isn't ever a bad thing. I just got the bigger of the two of the 20v DeWalts and it's fine. It's like a really weak/cheap gas blower, which is absolutely perfect for blowing leaves out of the garage/off the patio and perfect for blowing water off of cars after you've washed them. I've got a gigantic Echo backpack blower and wanted something that wasn't a chore and requires ear protection for simple jobs.
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Oct 12, 2021 22:33
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Motronic posted:I just got the bigger of the two of the 20v DeWalts and it's fine. It's like a really weak/cheap gas blower, which is absolutely perfect for blowing leaves out of the garage/off the patio and perfect for blowing water off of cars after you've washed them. Yeah I have a Ryobi 18V "Whisper" and use it for exactly the same stuff. Works great.
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Oct 12, 2021 23:05
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| # ? May 30, 2024 21:20 |
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm not crazy, right? This chain is installed correctly? It looks fine to me, the depth gauge usually is in front of the cutting teeth.
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Oct 13, 2021 00:22
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