|
Unperson_47 posted:I'm having the nozzle ooze at the beginning of every print. This causes poor prints when the hanging bit cools down and gets dragged along the bed. Is there any way in Cura to print both a skirt/little priming strip and a brim for when I want a brim? Is cura not giving you a priming strip? I don't actually know how to make it NOT do that, it's just done it since I got it
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2021 00:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 20:45 |
|
|
Just print a skirt?
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2021 01:04
|
|
|
I think by default, prusaslicer gives you both a priming strip + a skirt If you were looking for a reason to leave Cura, this is it
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2021 01:41
|
|
|
Unperson_47 posted:I'm having the nozzle ooze at the beginning of every print. This causes poor prints when the hanging bit cools down and gets dragged along the bed. Is there any way in Cura to print both a skirt/little priming strip and a brim for when I want a brim? You just need to add the g-code to do that to the beginning of your file as a header. I don't use Cura but I'm sure it has a way to do so. Here is the stock PrusaSlicer priming line, which should work for pretty much any machine: quote:G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area This should go after any homing, zeroing, and temperature setting commands. If your printer doesn't allow you to move to negative bed values, change that Y-3.0 in the first line to Y0.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2021 02:03
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:I think by default, prusaslicer gives you both a priming strip + a skirt I used to use slic3r years ago and it definitely runs faster on my system so I will mess around with Prusaslicer. Sagebrush posted:You just need to add the g-code to do that to the beginning of your file as a header. I don't use Cura but I'm sure it has a way to do so. I will try this as well. As always thanks for the help.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2021 02:50
|
|
|
Cura has a million settings you can turn on, but you have to enable them in the preferences somewhere. Once you've done that you should be able to individually enable the purge line, brim, and skirt.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2021 03:30
|
|
|
CURA purge line is gcode and not actually part of the slicer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2021 06:47
|
|
|
Oops! I just realized that the little bit I hacked out of the Prusa start code doesn't include a Z command, because the Z-height for the priming line is set by the previous leveling routine. You want the nozzle to be a little bit above the bed when it's printing the priming line, of course. Prusa has it at 0.15mm. So add this first line to the set:quote:; (leveling and zeroing and warming up goes here)
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2021 07:01
|
|
|
Unperson_47 posted:I'm having the nozzle ooze at the beginning of every print. This causes poor prints when the hanging bit cools down and gets dragged along the bed. Is there any way in Cura to print both a skirt/little priming strip and a brim for when I want a brim? A penicillin shot ought to clear that right up
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2021 12:06
|
|
|
Any pro tips for MK3S+ assembly? I just started and got the y axis table installed and took it back apart to clean the shipping lube out of the bearings and relube because they sound like poo poo
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2021 04:39
|
|
|
Yerok posted:Any pro tips for MK3S+ assembly? I just started and got the y axis table installed and took it back apart to clean the shipping lube out of the bearings and relube because they sound like poo poo Yes, it sounds tinny and gritty and terrible at that stage; that is normal. It's significantly quieter once built. Also, use the online assembly instructions. They have comments and there are quite a few steps where the comments are very useful.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2021 04:50
|
|
|
Yerok posted:Any pro tips for MK3S+ assembly? I just started and got the y axis table installed and took it back apart to clean the shipping lube out of the bearings and relube because they sound like poo poo Be careful when inserting the x-axis rods into the carriage mechanism because it's usually a tight fit. I recommend getting a mallet/hammer and a towel to gently hammer them into the 3d printed part holes. Spend some time getting the axes perpendicular at the beginning and make sure to tighten the screws together. You'll want the bragging rights when the self test reports perpedicular axes, trust me.  When you get to the part where you need to tighten the x and y axis belts, don't tighten them until you can pluck them and hear notes like a guitar string, that's way too tight. Some of the comments on the site say to do this, but don't. There's so many qualitative descriptions of what you should do here that just plain don't make sense. Just tighten it enough so they don't slip off and then after you've put everything together, there's an option in the software menu to do a "belt test". The machine will move the x and y axes and then output a number. You want the numbers of both axes to be between 240 and 300 (~275). And you also want these two numbers to be close together for both axes. I don't know why they don't just tell you to do this in the assembly instructions. On a related topic, when you have to tension the X carriage motor bracket, apparently it's very common to crack this piece by overtightening it. It's the piece that looks like this:  I found the instructions (even online) to be really confusing at this part. While I didn't crack mine, I did end up tightening the screw too much and had it protruding out of the screw hole so far it started burrowing into the metal of the stepper motor and pushing the 3d printed piece away from it, so... that wasn't good. I still don't really understand this part, but my advice is the same as the previous part: keep it loose and then try and tighten and adjust once everything is put together. Edit: You have to make sure you do this before tensioning the belts, I think. I read the entire assembly instructions before starting. Not sure if you're willing to do that, but I thought it was helpful even though it took hours... TheLastManStanding posted:Also, use the online assembly instructions. They have comments and there are quite a few steps where the comments are very useful. Seconding this ^^ Cory Parsnipson fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Oct 12, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2021 08:32
|
|
|
I’ve been printing stuff for a couple years on an a vanilla ender 3 but I’m not expert by any means. My ender 3’s power supply died so I used that as an excuse to go nuts (reasonably) and grab an ender 3 v2 and a CR-touch which is pretty cool. I ended up getting a new power supply for the original ender 3 and I’m giving it to my nephew who is 12 and a huge nerd. I’ve calibrated my steps/mm for the extruder as well as X, Y, and Z and everything looks great on the calibration cubes and stuff. Got the probe z offset all squared away, etc. I’ve used the CR touch to help me manually dial in as level a bed as possible, and of course added the G29 command to my cura gcode start script for each print. For the most part my prints on the 3v2 are great, but I’m noticing some weird 1st layer issues.  What does this stuff indicate? Is my build surface warped? When it’s clear it doesn’t look like anything is amiss. I have had terrible luck with adhesion with glass, even either side of the included 3v2 glass bed so early on in my first ender 3’s life I switched to a flexible removable magnetic build surface and only since the 3v2 have I noticed weird first layer issues like this and I’m just wondering what these indicate. I’ve checked the adhesive magnetic layer underneath the build surface and there are no bubbles that I can see and everything looks really flush. These issues aren’t ruining prints or anything, I’d just really like to get it dialed in better and I’m at a loss figuring out what to fiddle with next to fix it. Here’s a bed visualizer from octoprint and to me everything looks good so I’m not really leaning towards a bed leveling problem, but like I said, I’m not an expert. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2021 16:08
|
|
|
If you’re using the Creality removable print surface, the flexible one that comes with the ender 3 on your V2, those inconsistencies are likely from the minor creases/bends that can develop in the build plate. The Pei coasted springsteel build plates from TH3d are a massive upgrade in comparison to the OG Ender 3 flexible mats.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2021 16:14
|
|
|
The two on the left are bubbles under the mat, and the one on the right is a fingerprint.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2021 16:14
|
|
|
A while ago I swapped the flexible mat for a glass and my prints were instantly heaps better.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2021 16:19
|
|
|
insta posted:The two on the left are bubbles under the mat, and the one on the right is a fingerprint. I think you’re probably bang on the money with that one. If I look at the build surface in the right light I do see some oils on there, and even though I can’t see the bubbles myself due to the thick magnetic adhesive surface hiding it, I’m sure there’s some imperfections there. Thanks for the quick diagnosis! Hamburlgar posted:If you’re using the Creality removable print surface, the flexible one that comes with the ender 3 on your V2, those inconsistencies are likely from the minor creases/bends that can develop in the build plate. I’ve always wanted to try one of these but never bothered getting one. They have a smooth and a textured version. Does either variety have an effect on adhesion? The surface I’m using didn’t come with the ender 3, i used that one clipped to the bed for a while but I hated dealing with the clips every time I took it off so I bought the Creality magnetic one pretty early on and never looked back. The magnetic ones are basically the same as the ones you clip on, build material wise, but they are thinner. Edit: It was definitely a fingerprint on the surface, and creases on the underside of the flexible mat.  How annoying. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Oct 12, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2021 16:29
|
|
|
I think I've gotten my hot end cleaned up enough after the bubble gum crisis that occurred. The dice display was printed a while ago, but I printed the Sailor Moon display today. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2021 20:23
|
|
|
So I releveled my monoprice mini for the first time since I got it (seriously that thing worked fantastically the entire time until now). I think I might have raised up a side too high? I'm not super familiar with leveling unfortunately and I may have wrecked my nozzle. The print started out fine and then petered out at the end, looking like it just didn't get enough plastic as it got higher. It appeared to be jammed, but when I disassembled it I didn't see any jam, it took a lot of effort for me to manually push filament through and when I waited for it to cool to 90 I pulled out the whole chunk and still couldn't see all the way through. So looking into a replacement nozzle. From monoprice itself I can pick up just 1 for 4 bucks and double that in shipping. But I can pick up quite a few non-monoprice branded nozzles that look like they'd work, but as I'm not familiar with swapping out parts I thought I'd come ask how well alternate brand nozzles work as replacements? It'd be nice to have a few extra's in case I mess up again. **Side note, can I mess up my nozzle by it being improperly leveled? Like I get it shouldn't be scraping the build plate but according to most guides I've read there needs to be a little bit of friction between a piece of paper and the nozzle itself.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 03:35
|
|
|
You ignored the first rule. If it’s working don’t gently caress with it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 03:41
|
|
|
Poor leveling won't harm the nozzle, short of cranking the bed up so high the nozzle digs into it. What you've got sounds more like it's clogged. You may or may not be able to fix this by doing cold pulls (consult google or thread search for instructions for that) If you're using brass nozzles, you can get them in bulk packs for much, much less than $4/ea, that include cleaning stuff, like so: https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Nozzle-Extruder-1-75mm-Filament/dp/B08KY77197/ Alternatively, you can get steel nozzles that won't wear out for slightly more: https://www.amazon.com/Plated-Resistant-Nozzle-Monoprice-Select/dp/B07BSJYDLK - these can still clog but won't wear out like brass. (I just googled for examples, these aren't The Best options or anything)
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 03:55
|
|
|
Ah thanks. Yeah that sounds good.Doctor Zero posted:You ignored the first rule. Oh hell yeah that's usually the plan. But I was having some obvious plate leveling issues (despite having not touched it for a while). Dunno how that happened but here I am
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 04:16
|
|
|
TIL that if you dont tihhtrn the nozzle/heatbreak properly in the heater block, you can get lil puddles of plastic oozing out the top of the heaterblock threads.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 04:31
|
|
|
DarkAvenger211 posted:? I'm not super familiar with leveling unfortunately and I may have wrecked my nozzle. I stopped reading here Go buy a new nozzle and rule that out immediately. They're cheap
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 04:40
|
|
|
Yep, it is very important to tihhtrn the nozzle properly. The leaking happens because all the parts expand as they heaet up. The proper way to do it is tighten it down when it's cold, heat it up to as hot as you can get it without damaging the thermistor (try 280 degrees), and crank it another quarter turn or until it's tight again. Then when you cool it back down to normal printing temperatures, everything will shrink and seal properly.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 04:40
|
|
|
One time I failed to tihhtrn my nozzle and the heaet was totally off.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 05:04
|
|
|
withak posted:One time I failed to tihhtrn my nozzle and the heaet was totally off. New thread title.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 08:59
|
|
|
withak posted:One time I failed to tihhtrn my nozzle and the heaet was totally off.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 09:10
|
|
|
withak posted:One time I failed to tihhtrn my nozzle and the heaet was totally off.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 09:38
|
|
|
withak posted:One time I failed to tihhtrn my nozzle and the heaet was totally off.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 13:22
|
|
|
withak posted:One time I failed to tihhtrn my nozzle and the heaet was totally off. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 14:00
|
|
|
is there any reason i can't add the small bit of anycubic gray i have left into this siraya tech gray in the vat? Also I made a blob of goo on my prusa and now i have to strip the nozzle and heatblock for cleaning 
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 15:11
|
|
|
Re nozzlechat: I suggested the same thing to my buddy with an Ender3, and he picked a similar batch of 10/$8 nozzles from Amazon. They were poo poo quality, and you can't tell by looking at them. We put one under a microscope and found that the nozzle hole was both off-center and off-parallel to the extrusion path. It looks like instead of being machined, it was chucked into a fixture and hit with a drill press. This stupid nozzle caused him no end of tuning problems, inconsistent extrusion, quality that changed by which side of the part you looked at, and more. If you value your time at all buy a $5-15 nozzle from a known vendor like MicroSwiss, E3D, TriangleLab, Phaetus, etc.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 15:32
|
|
|
Deviant posted:is there any reason i can't add the small bit of anycubic gray i have left into this siraya tech gray in the vat? Shouldn't be any issues, just be sure to stir it up really well.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 16:21
|
|
|
Toebone posted:Shouldn't be any issues, just be sure to stir it up really well. Or shake it up good in the bottle before pouring it into the vat.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 16:33
|
|
|
Deviant posted:is there any reason i can't add the small bit of anycubic gray i have left into this siraya tech gray in the vat? Try to imagine all life as you know it stopping instantaneously and every molecule in your body exploding at the speed of light.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 16:39
|
|
|
Deviant posted:is there any reason i can't add the small bit of anycubic gray i have left into this siraya tech gray in the vat? Nah, I do that all the time.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 17:03
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Try to imagine all life as you know it stopping instantaneously and every molecule in your body exploding at the speed of light. it's that easy?!
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 17:11
|
|
|
I'm looking into a PEI-coated steel build plate; do I need to buy the magnetic plate from TH3D to go with it or is the magnetic surface that's already on my Ender 3 Pro good enough?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 17:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 20:45 |
|
|
Toebone posted:I'm looking into a PEI-coated steel build plate; do I need to buy the magnetic plate from TH3D to go with it or is the magnetic surface that's already on my Ender 3 Pro good enough? I have the full TH3D setup on my Ender 3 v2 but use the stock magnet with me Ender 3 Pro. TH3D's is a much stronger magnet, which is generally regarded favorably; there are also issues with the thinner magnets at higher temperatures wherein the spring steel can start slipping around. A friend of mine had his spring steel slipping while printing PLA and the problem was fully resolved by putting a thicker magnetic base down; I myself haven't had an issue printing PLA with the stock E3P magnetic base when paired with a PEI-coated spring steel. I guess the short of it is this: you're probably alright with the stock base if you're only printing PLA; if you want to do PETG, ABS, or filaments that require hotter bed temperatures, you really should spend the few extra bucks and get the thicker magnet. Edit - also, I think you got your E3Pro from Micro Center on the August $99 deal; that's when I picked mine up too, and mine came with the v4.2.2 board which has a bootloader. I think back in August I told you that you'd need to flash a bootloader to upgrade the firmware, but if you have the v4.2.2 or v4.2.7 board, you do not need to do this. becoming fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Oct 13, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2021 17:49
|
|
