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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FISHMANPET posted:

Get starbit screws and just get whatever seems reasonably priced, I'm not sure brand of bit is something you need to obsess over for the scale of projects around the house.

Bits are consumables. People who have problems with bits don't realize that. Buy a whole pack of the ones you need for a project and pitch them as soon as they start camming out/show the least bit of damage.

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tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Motronic posted:

Bits are consumables. People who have problems with bits don't realize that. Buy a whole pack of the ones you need for a project and pitch them as soon as they start camming out/show the least bit of damage.

On top of that, I found that I just stopped damaging bits at all when I switched over to square and Torx bits for everything I build myself. I'm not worried about longevity but it just happens.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

tracecomplete posted:

On top of that, I found that I just stopped damaging bits at all when I switched over to square and Torx bits for everything I build myself. I'm not worried about longevity but it just happens.

I dont do tons of stuff with screwdriver bits but yeah, with square drive stuff, which I know some of you think is the devil, I don't have a lot of problems with cam out, and I find square in particular, is very forgiving of a bit thats been a bit damaged unless its pretty much cheese grade metal.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

I tend to buy 1lb boxes of screws so I don't need storage for a million larger boxes, and every box comes with a bit. I can't spin around and throw a rock without hitting a star drive bit.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

tracecomplete posted:

On top of that, I found that I just stopped damaging bits at all when I switched over to square and Torx bits for everything I build myself. I'm not worried about longevity but it just happens.

Yeah, I love the star head coated deck screws for things I just need to bash together. Bu basically anything other than phillips bits will last a pretty long time. Phillips bits are literally sold in contractor packs of like 20+ for a reason. They are poo poo, and no amount of quality of metal can fix the bad engineering that is phillips.

The only redeeming use/quality of phillips is for drywall when you're using a dimple bit. Because that's about the only time you really need something to cam out and they are perfect at that.

The rest of this is from a time when slip clutches on driving tools didn't exist and torque drivers were too expensive and/or nonexistant.

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

FISHMANPET posted:

Get starbit screws and just get whatever seems reasonably priced, I'm not sure brand of bit is something you need to obsess over for the scale of projects around the house.

Awesome, thanks all.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




wesleywillis posted:

with square drive stuff, which I know some of you think is the devil

Square drive is the best drive. I sleep with a McFeely's catalogue under my pillow every night.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
I think it's my own bad habits but I always end up rounding out square bits super fast. The torx seems to be the best bang for the buck as far as time/driven screws. I also don't ever seem to gently caress up torx bits for some reason. Like, I know they're disposable but I have some that have drilled like thousands of screws and still work great. :shrug:

Effective-Disorder
Nov 13, 2013

Motronic posted:

The only redeeming use/quality of phillips is for drywall when you're using a dimple bit. Because that's about the only time you really need something to cam out and they are perfect at that.

This is a profound truth, one that has somehow filled a void in my existence, perhaps equivalent to the volume of metal in phillips bits and screw heads that I've stripped out within that duration.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
I have a coworker whose job title is "mechanical engineer" and he told me that Philips heads are designed to cam out and strip as a feature to protect against over torquing the screws. He told me this after I asked him what idiot was going around stripping every screw in the office. I yelled at him how wrong he was but I don't think it got through.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

I have a coworker whose job title is "mechanical engineer" and he told me that Philips heads are designed to cam out and strip as a feature to protect against over torquing the screws. He told me this after I asked him what idiot was going around stripping every screw in the office. I yelled at him how wrong he was but I don't think it got through.

I've heard that before too, and it makes sense in context of 100 years ago if you're having guys without torque wrenches assemble cars on an assembly line.

Someone who wrote a whole book about screws and screwdrivers agrees.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/car-accessories/a33490602/phillips-head-screwdriver-history/

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

canyoneer posted:

I've heard that before too, and it makes sense in context of 100 years ago if you're having guys without torque wrenches assemble cars on an assembly line.

Someone who wrote a whole book about screws and screwdrivers agrees.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/car-accessories/a33490602/phillips-head-screwdriver-history/

In an environment where you're driving and tightening millions of identical screws and bolts, into controlled materials, and without torque control, I guess that makes sense. In the modern world for miscellaneous use it's abject trash.

I've also head contradictory claims on the purpose of the cam out effect. Wikipedia claims that there's no direct evidence that torque control was the original purpose. I've read elsewhere that its purpose is to protect the screwdriver from damage because the screw fails first. Whatever the reason I hate them and my coworker is an idiot who destroys most tools he uses.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




canyoneer posted:

Tools: a whole book about screws and screwdrivers

:hmmyes:

rockear
Oct 3, 2004

Slippery Tilde
CPO has a bunch of factory refurb Bosch angle grinders right now. I bought this one recently. I haven't gotten a chance to use it yet but it spins and feels pretty solid for being so inexpensive. Planning to get one of those Kutzall wheels and mess around with some power carving.

https://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-bosch-1375a-46-4-1-2-in.--6-amp-small-angle-grinder/bshr1375a-46.html

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
I have one and it is solid for the rare occasion I have need for an angle grinder.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp
How's everyone's luck with the factory reconditioned tools? I'm tempted but suspicious

heffray
Sep 18, 2010

Vim Fuego posted:

How's everyone's luck with the factory reconditioned tools? I'm tempted but suspicious
Ryobi or Ridgid stuff from https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/ has been fine for me (18V brushless circ saw, Ridgid thickness planer, etc).

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

heffray posted:

Ryobi or Ridgid stuff from https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/ has been fine for me (18V brushless circ saw, Ridgid thickness planer, etc).

Same. I've bought some recon Ryobi batteries as well for $20 a pop, haven't noticed a difference other than they've got the word RECON melted into the casing. I assume they replaced the 18650s.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I went with the two-pack of Mastercraft angle grinders.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost
Has anyone tried the knock off hitachi framing nailers? I’m looking at either the Airlocker or the Pneutool. Waiting to find a nice vintage NR83 but would like to get a cheap new one for work or when other people are gonna use it.

Paslode is all anyone uses here and I’m not a fan. Haven’t been reliable (although nobody seems to maintain them either) and there’s a fair amount of plastic on them.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Vim Fuego posted:

How's everyone's luck with the factory reconditioned tools? I'm tempted but suspicious

Great, I never buy new unless I’m in a time crunch and can’t afford to wait. Factory reconditioned come w a warranty and return policy in my experience, and used tools can be visually inspected for abuse.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Literally A Ghost posted:

I think it's my own bad habits but I always end up rounding out square bits super fast. The torx seems to be the best bang for the buck as far as time/driven screws. I also don't ever seem to gently caress up torx bits for some reason. Like, I know they're disposable but I have some that have drilled like thousands of screws and still work great. :shrug:

Same for me on square bits. Better than phillips ofc but not near as good as torx

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




I just hate square screws because my PO used 50% square, then a random assortment of Phillips, flat, and hex screws, literally all over the house

:argh:

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

rockear posted:

CPO has a bunch of factory refurb Bosch angle grinders right now. I bought this one recently. I haven't gotten a chance to use it yet but it spins and feels pretty solid for being so inexpensive. Planning to get one of those Kutzall wheels and mess around with some power carving.

https://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-bosch-1375a-46-4-1-2-in.--6-amp-small-angle-grinder/bshr1375a-46.html

Do you post your work anywhere? Great share, is this the same on off switch as their 5 inch? I do a ton of power carving, too! Just picked up another holy galahad king Arthur attachment, they are amazing with the see through holes. I also use metal use grinding pads to great success on wood. Die grinder kutzall burrs whip rear end, too. Chainsaw rough out to save yourself time and not make dust of everything

Also wear a mask and eye pro obviously, dust everywhere

Vim Fuego posted:

How's everyone's luck with the factory reconditioned tools? I'm tempted but suspicious

All of my reconditioned makita tools have been super solid and half off

Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Oct 15, 2021

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Vim Fuego posted:

How's everyone's luck with the factory reconditioned tools? I'm tempted but suspicious

Most of my 20v max dewalts are factory refurbs I've picked up as bare tools off of ebay. Been going great.

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum

Johnny Truant posted:

I just hate square screws because my PO used 50% square, then a random assortment of Phillips, flat, and hex screws, literally all over the house

:argh:

:ohdear: I may be this future PO. I prefer torx but most things come with phillips so I use those too occasionally, but I also out of convenience often find myself grabbing Kreg pocket hole screws whenever a panhead will work for something. My around the house drill has a bit attachment with R2, T25, flat, and PH2 on it at all times.

From my desk I can spot square drive, torx, phillips, and flathead screws(wall plates) in use around the room!

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I just use the Menards brand construction or triple-coated deck screw (which are all T25, except the short ones which are Phillips) and then I've got a random assortment of small Spax screws (that are all Phillps) which I use for small things or to replace cheap little screws that might come with stuff I buy. Realistcally speaking I don't know it's possible to make much of a specific choice of drive head, when the manufacturers make that decision, and stores only carry one head type for a specific size and screw type.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Vim Fuego posted:

How's everyone's luck with the factory reconditioned tools? I'm tempted but suspicious

I made a career of it back before Rockwell sold off to Porter Cable and I needed to rebuild my power tool set (that was around 1980) and never looked back. I still have a working rockwell sawzall, a router I set up for doors, and the door jig from then- although tbf, I've hardly used them the past 15 years. Reconditioning to me means (or should) mean they've been QC'd for actual defects and fixed instead of just boxed up new.

rockear
Oct 3, 2004

Slippery Tilde

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Do you post your work anywhere? Great share, is this the same on off switch as their 5 inch? I do a ton of power carving, too!

Thanks for the tips! I haven't tried it at all yet as I haven't bought a wheel for it. Would love to see some of your stuff if it's easily shareable.

I actually bought the grinder because it was cheap and seemed like it would come in handy at work (I'm a roofer). Then it occurred to me that we throw away a lot of wood because there's 6" of dry rot at one end of a 16' board and I could start taking it home and make art or furniture out of it. My first project will probably be Stumpy Nubs's workbench because I don't have a good place to work.

I'm not sure about the switch. I'm pretty sure it's latching but I don't have it handy to verify.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams

FISHMANPET posted:

I'm picking up my Blue HF top chest today that I ordered 4 weeks ago, same.

Update: obviously I measured beforehand to make sure it would fit, and I saw it on display in the store, but still kind of in awe about how huge this thing actually is. It's a bit too heavy for me to move on my own (and my wife was not in the mood for the heavy labor of hefting it out of my car and into the basement). So I had to sort of slide it out the back of my hatchback and rest it on some sawhorses, ripped off the box, and pulled all the drawers out. Then I was able to very carefully heft it myself into the house, and then brought all the drawers in and put them back, and started loading it up. Discovered that my tabletop isn't perfectly flat either, so the chest currently rocks a bit (or the chest itself isn't square on the bottom...).

As for the chest itself, it's great. It's got that paint job on all sides, including the bottom, so it's actually kind of "slippery" and can easily slide across my MDF tabletop there. There are two holes in the bottom (maybe for mounting to the bottom chest) that I will probably end up using to bolt it down to the table, so it doesn't move anymore. At the very least, some kind of grippy rubber feet would be useful to give it some friction.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I have the rolly one and overall the HF chests are pretty decent for joseph homeowner

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

I have 2 of the 4 drawer carts with the flip up lid.
One outside in the carport for car stuff and another in the kitchen to make up for lack of storage.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Thumposaurus posted:

I have 2 of the 4 drawer carts with the flip up lid.
One outside in the carport for car stuff and another in the kitchen to make up for lack of storage.

I see the white 5-drawer carts in hospitals regularly. It's amusing, they take the US General plate off, but they're so distinctive.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




There are so many common tools used in hospitals it's wild

I just finished an autopsy and we used a pair of Grainger needle nosed pliers, the common blue/yellow vice grips, scotch Brite pads, and regular ziplock sandwich bags

Rufio
Feb 6, 2003

I'm smart! Not like everybody says... like dumb... I'm smart and I want respect!

Johnny Truant posted:

There are so many common tools used in hospitals it's wild

I just finished an autopsy and we used a pair of Grainger needle nosed pliers, the common blue/yellow vice grips, scotch Brite pads, and regular ziplock sandwich bags

My wife tells me that oscillating saws are very often used in the OR.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
I’ve heard a story of an open heart surgeon a (long) while back who used craftsman bits for some piece of work; after so many times through the autoclave they got all jacked up so they swapped them out under warranty.

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

Historically there were loads of problems with orthopedic surgeons using whatever tools for screwing in implants, it totally fucks patients up because any tiny shavings of screwdriver up against the screw lead to galvanic corrosion and a big risk of implant failure. Implant kits come with tools made out of the same material to avoid that happening. Surgeons really shouldn't be using their HF kit, maybe it happens but seems unlikely in 2021.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

knox_harrington posted:

Historically there were loads of problems with orthopedic surgeons using whatever tools for screwing in implants, it totally fucks patients up because any tiny shavings of screwdriver up against the screw lead to galvanic corrosion and a big risk of implant failure. Implant kits come with tools made out of the same material to avoid that happening. Surgeons really shouldn't be using their HF kit, maybe it happens but seems unlikely in 2021.

yah using conventional stuff is big no no, surgical tools are purpose designed. Plus they’re all tracked and registered so if there’s problem it’ll trigger further investigations etc

Autopsies are different, I would assume the tools are disposed of instead of sterilized & autoclaved but after seeing how hospitals handled PPE w COVID, I’m guessing they re-use them

Part of the reason orthopods make so much is from royalties they collect from the medical hardware they invent (and then use exclusively, collecting licensing fees from their own surgeries on top of usual compensation)

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




lil poopendorfer posted:

Autopsies are different, I would assume the tools are disposed of instead of sterilized & autoclaved but after seeing how hospitals handled PPE w COVID, I’m guessing they re-use them

nah you have a lot of reusable tools. orange pruning shears, for example. dunno if those're Caftsman!

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Gromit
Aug 15, 2000

I am an oppressed White Male, Asian women wont serve me! Save me Campbell Newman!!!!!!!
I want to fit a vise to my workbench. However, while 3 of the 4 mounting holes are fine, the fourth is mostly above one of the bench legs. If I move it further across to clear the leg, then the jaws won't clear the benchtop if I have a workpiece in them.
Any suggestions on how to mount this? I could put a big screw into that last hole and bolt the other three through, or mount the vice to a steel plate somehow that is then itself bolted into the bench further out?



I want to be able to use the vise from either edge of the corner, so it really needs to be in this location. I mean, maybe that's not too big a deal, but I'd hate to miss out on that extra bit of versatility if I can avoid it.

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