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Just get some vaguely similar stock and do a couple practice runs, there's not a lot of complex steps involved in beveling an edge that an instruction video is gonna be able to fill you in on, you just need to get a feel for how it's gonna try to run away from you
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Oct 15, 2021 22:56
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Serenade posted:That piece of laminated stock I wanted to trim up on a router table: I forgot that I have a 3d printer that can just uh, make jig specifically for what I need. 3d printing to make router jigs is so much fun. My favourite one I've made so far is the circle jig that I did - it was a simple strip that basically just turned my router + a flush cut bit into a compass. I drilled a hole at my center, put a nail in to hold the jig in place, and then zooped a perfectly sized circle right from the middle. It felt really good.
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Oct 15, 2021 23:08
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KKKLIP ART posted:Never owned a router in my life and want to make my table look like more than some boards glued together. I agree with A Wizard of Goatse on this -- you just need some practice and experience. Get some scrap wood, clamp it down, and do some practice passes. After reading the manual for the router, of course. The main thing about routers is to not try to remove too much material in each pass, because that can lead to the router getting bogged down and trying to grab and throw the piece (or itself, if the piece is secured).
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Oct 16, 2021 00:01
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Ohhhh. You changed my life. Thanks. I always vaguely assumed that the stuff higher on the brush was wicking/seeping down. Long bristles do give you some extra paint-holding, but their main function is to give you flex in the bristles. The longer they are, the more flex, which lets you do things like draw them out to a point, or have them flatter compared to the surface, or get them to fill in a corner, etc. What they tend to do though is help you waste a bunch of extra paint as they wick it up into the bristles where it will not come back out: and if any gets under the ferrule, it tends to not wash out, dry, and in drying, spread the bristles out which causes the brush to splay, as well as forcing the ferrule open and just loosening it all up and being poo poo.
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Oct 16, 2021 00:03
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For handheld routing, it might be worth it to make a somewhat larger base for your router, especially if it's a small trim router. Those little routers can get kind of tippy. But yeah, do some tests on some scrap, get a feel for the resistance, don't take too much off in one pass.
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Oct 16, 2021 00:30
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Cool. I came into a Ryobi burshless handheld router, reviews seem to say that for a handheld it is pretty good. At this point I have spent more on poo poo to build this table than if I would have gone and gotten someone to build me one at this point. I'm fine.
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Oct 16, 2021 01:10
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I have severe ADHD and being asked to "apply evenly, avoid touching and wait between coats" is ableist as gently caress.
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Oct 16, 2021 01:52
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 First pic of my anarchists workbench. Right now I'm in the process of flattening the three bunches of 6 planks for the next glueup. e. the ends are uneven because I aligned the plane snipe - I have it marked where I plan to cut it eventually CommonShore fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Oct 16, 2021 |
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Oct 16, 2021 02:01
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I got surprisingly good results from my last couple of thick poly applications by using a wide, super fine artist's brush I grabbed at Hobby Lobby, then waving a torch over the handful of bubbles that showed up anyway. Even a year later, it still looks wet.CommonShore posted:
Nice! I just finished the book, and I got bit by the bug, too. Post your progress, it's fun watching stuff take shape.
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Oct 16, 2021 03:39
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Anyone have a good vendor for beeswax? I don't trust Amazon on something like this.
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Oct 16, 2021 05:49
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Look around you for apiary supply places, assuming you're in a climate that has honeybees. That will always be the best bet. Same goes for online. https://www.dadant.com/catalog/more/beeswax (as an example)
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Oct 16, 2021 06:13
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poll plane variant posted:Anyone have a good vendor for beeswax? I don't trust Amazon on something like this. I found a local beekeeper and swapped cash for a big block outside a Walgreens like the silliest drug deal on the planet
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Oct 16, 2021 06:55
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Danhenge posted:I found a local beekeeper and swapped cash for a big block outside a Walgreens like the silliest drug deal on the planet Is it good stuff?
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Oct 16, 2021 06:58
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Danhenge posted:I found a local beekeeper and swapped cash for a big block outside a Walgreens like the silliest drug deal on the planet Same
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Oct 16, 2021 15:05
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You could check the local farmers markets. Mine often have people selling honey and beeswax.
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Oct 16, 2021 15:17
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Mederlock posted:Is it good stuff? I don't have any basis for comparison but the beeswax and mineral oil combo i whipped up does a nice job on wood. 
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Oct 16, 2021 16:25
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Danhenge posted:I don't have any basis for comparison but the beeswax and mineral oil combo i whipped up does a nice job on wood. That looks great, what was the ratio
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Oct 16, 2021 16:27
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poll plane variant posted:That looks great, what was the ratio Just 1:1 by weight. Protip: buy your mineral oil at a drug store, not a big box store.
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Oct 16, 2021 16:35
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ok back to the chicken bedding mill to flatten out my big blocks to get a nice tight join for my work bench top. Any tips for flattening an 8 foot long plank? Right now they're out by maybe 2-3 mm over the entire length, which feels tiny to me, but it's enough to cause a bad join.
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Oct 16, 2021 17:27
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Danhenge posted:Just 1:1 by weight. Protip: buy your mineral oil at a drug store, not a big box store. Yeah the laxative kind is exactly the same as the food grade kind right
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Oct 16, 2021 17:44
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the top is glue. I' had a bit of slippage between a couple of the chunks but I've used every clamp in my garage to correct them best I can, so I'll just have to do some jack plane work once it's dry.
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Oct 16, 2021 19:36
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CommonShore posted:ok back to the chicken bedding mill to flatten out my big blocks to get a nice tight join for my work bench top. Is it just gently curved over 8 feet? How thick is the plank? If it's just a slight curve to a plank maybe 2" thick or less, there's no convenient way to get that perfectly flat, but also no need to: you can bend it into place when you glue up. If it's thicker than that, it might be too hard to just bend it flat. When I say there's "no convenient way" to do it, I mean: you'd need an absurdly long hand plane, or an industrial sized huge rear end planer or drum sander, etc. For the home/garage shop, you'd instead have to just constantly measure, take a bit off, measure again, etc. and in my experience that just never really leads to a uniformly flat straight board over that kind of length.
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Oct 16, 2021 20:32
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Leperflesh posted:Is it just gently curved over 8 feet? How thick is the plank? If it's just a slight curve to a plank maybe 2" thick or less, there's no convenient way to get that perfectly flat, but also no need to: you can bend it into place when you glue up. If it's thicker than that, it might be too hard to just bend it flat. these are the chunks posted above, where it's 6 2*6es laminated together already. I couldn't rely on them bending into shape at that thickness. What I ended up doing was just going over it 2-3x with a combo square to make sure it was as square as possible relative to my reference side, and then running a 6 foot level down it a few times to trim it down with my no.5 and 25 inch jointer with extremely thin settings. They got as good as I was going to get them.
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Oct 16, 2021 21:19
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Ahh, they're already glued up, OK. I was thinking individual boards. Yeah with a big wide surface, you get your longest jointer and go for it I guess. Also it's nice to have a six foot level! My longest is 4' and it's already awkward to store.
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Oct 16, 2021 22:14
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Leperflesh posted:Ahh, they're already glued up, OK. I was thinking individual boards. my 6 foot level is a piece of aluminium trash that I got from an auction as an add-on but it's straight and does the trick
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Oct 16, 2021 22:51
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Leperflesh posted:
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Oct 17, 2021 00:24
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Anybody tried out (own or a friend owns) the Grizzly G1033X - 20" 5 HP Helical Cutterhead Planer? https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-20-5-hp-helical-cutterhead-planer/g1033x I've been looking for something to replace my dewalt 12.5" box planer which is honestly a piece of crap.
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Oct 17, 2021 02:46
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Blistex posted:Anybody tried out (own or a friend owns) the Grizzly G1033X - 20" 5 HP Helical Cutterhead Planer? I've got an old 2HP Delta 15" beast which does everything I need and is a definite step up from a lunchbox planer, but that one skips on up to industrial league beast. If you can afford it, get it.
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Oct 17, 2021 16:55
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Whoever told me to use a bushing to stabilize a big bit was right on the money, ended up using a 3d printed template with a cylindrical guide and it held my hole saw straight until it could really dig in to these maple boards and then it was off to the races.
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Oct 18, 2021 20:13
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My local health food store sold 5lb organic blocks cheap. It's a pain in the rear end to chop though (And get off the knife after).
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Oct 19, 2021 03:37
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Generalissimo
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Toast posted:My local health food store sold 5lb organic blocks cheap. Yeah i think I nicked a finger doing it. I'd probably use like a bread knife and a sawing motion in the future.
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Oct 19, 2021 03:42
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Hot wire, my dudes. Just shim up the opposite side a little, so your chunk falls off instead of sticking back to the block.
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Oct 19, 2021 07:39
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Knee deep in a cold smoker project and finally got off my rear end and ordered some more clamps to make assembling the frame more doable. Remember: ABC Always Be Clamping
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Oct 20, 2021 17:24
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First chapter of the work bench is finished: the fucker is glued and flattened. As a bonus I'm including a picture of my in progress planer stop and my 3d printed poor man's router. 
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Oct 20, 2021 19:14
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CommonShore posted:First chapter of the work bench is finished: the fucker is glued and flattened. As a bonus I'm including a picture of my in progress planer stop and my 3d printed poor man's router. I feel like I should make myself a toothed thingy to go on top of my planing stop, but I'd also get super nervous about having a chunk of iron right in front of where my plane is always moving.
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Oct 20, 2021 19:24
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the iron part is supposed to dig into the endgrain, well below the surface of the board you're planing - but also it doesn't have to be iron, if you want you can use wood, it'll just gradually deform and so you may need to resurface or replace that bit occasionally.
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Oct 20, 2021 19:48
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SimonSays posted:I feel like I should make myself a toothed thingy to go on top of my planing stop, but I'd also get super nervous about having a chunk of iron right in front of where my plane is always moving. The plan for this is that I'm countersinking the screws that will hold it in place and making sure that it's recessed far enough into t he block that I have an extra layer of avoiding the plane irons.
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Oct 20, 2021 21:01
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I was drawing different workbenches in Fusion 360 for CAD practice and looking at some numbers and made a kind of surprising discovery: a similarly sized (in this case, all 120"L x 30"W x 33"H) English/Nicholson bench with beefed up top/aprons (7/8" board glued to inside of 1.75" top/aprons) is heavier and takes more wood than a Roubo with a 3.75" thick top. Without those 7/8” thick additions the Nicholson is a bit smaller/lighter than the Roubo, but only by about 15%. I had thought the English bench would be much more substantially lighter/less materials, but I guess between the big aprons and internal stiffeners it's not really. I was lazy and didn't draw all the joints or individual boards but I'm getting marginally better at CAD:  E: I realized I drew the English bench with the parts being 1.75" thick, as if from the 8/4 stock I had planned to use. Redrawing it with 1 3/8" stock for dressed dimensional 2x stock like Schwarz assumes and it is more as I expected. The English bench without 1x stiffeners is ~35% lighter/less materials than a Roubo of similar size, and with the stiffeners it's still ~10% lighter than the Roubo. Still not quite as drastically lighter/cheaper as I had thought, but definitely a significant difference, and the english bench would certainly be a whole lot less work than a roubo, especially for a hand tool person. Since I would be buying full 8/4 stuff though, I'm not sure there really is much of a material cost savings for the English bench, but I haven't made a full cutlist for either yet. I expect the roubo may actually wind up cheaper since it is all 2x8's and 2x6s, whereas I would used 2x10's for the english bench and they are a bit more expensive per bf than the narrower stuff, but would save on labor, and oh god the cycle of optimal workbench design continues to circle. I spent a few hours today using my benchtop with sandpaper clamped down almost as a surface plate to get 2 halves of an octagon to meet together and was really appreciating having a large, very flat (for a woodworker) surface. I wonder if an English bench with boards on face would stay as flat? Pretty hard to beat a big glued lamination for stability. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Oct 21, 2021 |
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Oct 21, 2021 00:32
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Bit of a weird question: I have a dead walnut tree at the back of my property that is going to be removed at some point in the near future. I can have it split up for firewood, but I'm wondering if this is something that somebody into woodworking could use. Trunk is about 15', so could easily be cut down whole (branches will be removed and those are going to the woodpile). The wood itself is in good condition, we're too dry/cold for termites and the woodpeckers leave it alone leaving me to believe it's bug-free. Is this the sort of thing a woodworker might be interested in/able to use? Unless this would be something worth thousands of dollars it'd be "come pick it up, you can have it" sort of deal. If it is worth thousands of dollars I'd still list it but use the profit to offset the cost of cutting 
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Oct 21, 2021 03:02
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Most of the value in wood is from the labor of turning trees into boards, so you're not going to make money from this. But if you put the word out on Craigslist (or whatever folks use these days, I haven't kept up) then you might find someone with a portable sawmill who's interested. The benefits to you are a) they'll take most of the tree away for you, and b) if you ask nicely you might get a slab or two out of it.
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Oct 21, 2021 03:55
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