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SubponticatePoster posted:Bit of a weird question: I have a dead walnut tree at the back of my property that is going to be removed at some point in the near future. I can have it split up for firewood, but I'm wondering if this is something that somebody into woodworking could use. Trunk is about 15', so could easily be cut down whole (branches will be removed and those are going to the woodpile). The wood itself is in good condition, we're too dry/cold for termites and the woodpeckers leave it alone leaving me to believe it's bug-free. Is this the sort of thing a woodworker might be interested in/able to use? Unless this would be something worth thousands of dollars it'd be "come pick it up, you can have it" sort of deal. If it is worth thousands of dollars I'd still list it but use the profit to offset the cost of cutting Walnut produces its own anti-bug toxin, so you're likely right that it's bug-free, rot free except maybe some of the sapwood and has been seasoning as it stands. I harvested a dead trunk from a friend's property some years ago that looked like just a crappy old stump, but it yielded some great figured lumber. I still have a piece or 3. Yours being worth thousands or  would be theoretical- if it is like 36" diameter at the base and has suffered little or no wind stress over its lifespan, then yeah cha-ching. You'll know for sure when it's milled.Look up the price of quality, seasoned black walnut lumber, it's a special wood. You might want to go like TMA mentioned and call around for someone with a portable mill. Or rent a trailer and bring it to them, if it seems worthwhile.
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Oct 21, 2021 04:52
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Thanks for the replies. I'll probably throw it up on the local classifieds a few days prior to whenever I have the arborist out and see if anyone's interested. If I don't get any bites then I'll happily have it split to firewood, but if anyone can make good use of it then I'd rather do that. I myself have no woodworking tools, skill, or space and don't know anyone who does.
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Oct 21, 2021 05:36
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Where are you, roughly?
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Oct 21, 2021 06:02
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Bloody posted:Where are you, roughly?
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Oct 21, 2021 16:01
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I'm making a trestle table and attaching the top to the legs with figure 8s - what length screw should I use to attach the tabletop? It was 15/16 wood, planed a bit. 3/4? 1/2?
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Oct 21, 2021 16:21
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I'm making a trestle table and attaching the top to the legs with figure 8s - what length screw should I use to attach the tabletop? It was 15/16 wood, planed a bit. 3/4? 1/2? 1/2 should be plenty. 3/4 is pushing your luck. Maybe compromise at 5/8? You don't need enormous holding power - gravity is going to most of the work for you.
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Oct 21, 2021 16:28
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Potentially interesting article: https://arstechnica.com/science/2021/10/watch-this-wooden-knife-cut-effortlessly-through-juicy-medium-well-done-steak/ tl;dr dissolve out the lignin from basswood, then compress it, and you end up with a dense, strong material that could be a potential replacement for some uses of metal and plastic.
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Oct 22, 2021 15:54
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Worth a try, everything they did is doable in a garage workshop Doubt it's really getting you woodsteel but at least it seems less bullshit than those "transparent wood" articles going around a few months back where the actual process was you replace the wood with vinyl and market it as green A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Oct 22, 2021 |
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Oct 22, 2021 16:40
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Bathroom cabinet hutch is coming together nicely! I've been using Home Depot's rebate site (only available in places with Menard's around so they can keep pace with the neverending 11% rebates offered there) and had 30 something bucks in gift cards so I got some 24 inch Bessey parallel clamps for a great price. They're my new favorite, and came in really handy for keep everything square while I screwed the pocket screws into place. The hutch panels are all cut as well, so I just need to assemble them and then it's face frame cut time. That should go a lot quicker than breaking down the plywood - lots of careful planning and setting up fliptop supports since my table saw surface is so small I had to worry about plywood flipping and falling - but for the face frame cuts I have my cross cut sled to make pretty quick work of them. I did figure out that my crosscut sled has a bit of an issue - the center is convex slightly; I thought I just hadn't gotten the 5 cut method quite right, but after seeing a panel that used both side of the sled rock back and forth I finally realized what was happening. I added some sandpaper on the two edges and that seems to have helped a lot as now there's roughly 3 points of coplanar contact. It's been really nice seeing my saw technique improve - especially due to two tips that really improved everything. The first was to hold on the outer edge on the offcut and push forward AND into the fence until the panel is mostly on the table and then push from straight behind. I was nervous about doing that because for a lot of cuts they recommend only forward pressure on the offcut side so you don't add lateral force that pushes the offcut into the blade. It seems for plywood panels when the cut isn't too far in that it doesn't rotate around much unless you were still doing that near the end of the cut when there's much more torque if you push sideways. The most important tip was don't watch the blade, watch the fence and just focus on keep the plywood flat against it and let the cut take care of itself. Major upgrade there.
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Oct 22, 2021 18:11
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I'm trying to make a reasonable facsimile of this salt cellar that I found out about following Kenji Lopez Alt. I'm not trying to copy it exactly (not doing the little cutout shape on the lid and sides) and going more straightforward like this guy on youtube. I don't have a fullworkshop setup with a table saw, planer, jointer etc. I only have a circular saw, miter saw, and router table. It's been several years but I've made a few handcut dovetail boxes and have a good Veritas dovetail saw, marking gauge, Narex chisels, marking knife, bench with a vise etc. I'm actually planning to just go ahead and try some handcut box joints instead of dovetails because I like the look of it and it's probably easier (although I've never done handcut box joints) I'm just way out of practice and bought a piece of poplar to practice on and although I could live with it I'm not exactly thrilled with my end product. I'm using a set of dividers to lay out the joints and using a marking knife to mark my lines and create a nice knife wall. I feel like my layout is correct and it's probably my sawing/chiseling which is creating the gaps. Trying to stay on the waste side and really be careful with my hammering out the waste and paring. I ended up with better results the second attempt cutting out most of the waste with a coping saw vs. trying to just chisel it all out. Any other tips or advice on being more precise and making a tighter fit? The obvious and correct answer is practice, but just wanted to see if there was anything I'm not thinking of since it's been so long since I've done it. I'm sure I will end up using some sawdust/glue on every joint in the end and it will probably be fine. I considered building a router table box joint jig, but since I don't have a table saw, planer, or other tools to make sure I can make a precision jig it probably wouldn't really end up perfect anyway, or it would take a whole weekend to get everything just right just using a circular saw and the other tools I have. Thanks for any tips!
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Oct 23, 2021 03:34
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I'm making trestle table with a pine bottom and cherry top. I'm going to paint the bottom.butnim trying to figure out how to finish the top. BLO and poly clear coat?
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Oct 23, 2021 23:29
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I haven't been following the thread for a long while. I'm curious if tools are still expensive and difficult to procure, particularly hand planes. A few projects I'd like to work on involve planing either individual boards or larger surfaces for gluing, and any combo of power jointer or planer is out of the question (shop space if not money) I have a table saw, miter saw and router table that serve most of my needs, but I'd like to add hand planes to my arsenal. I'm curious what I can expect to pay to own a starter set of decent (above harbor freight grade, below professional grade) hand planes. Would I be well-served to start with just a jack plane and jointer plane? How much could I expect to spend? I don't think buying used would be a good option, since I wouldn't know what I'm getting, and I don't want to get into tool restoration before learning how to use the tools.
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Oct 24, 2021 03:30
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Check out Rex Krueger and Paul Seller's videos on hand plane restoration. It's way easier than you'd think
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Oct 24, 2021 04:11
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I'm making trestle table with a pine bottom and cherry top. I'm going to paint the bottom.butnim trying to figure out how to finish the top. BLO and poly clear coat? You can get similar color to oil under poly without the absurd drying times by just doing oil based poly. I've done a bunch of furniture (for myself) with General Finishes Arm R Seal and I've been happy with it.
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Oct 24, 2021 05:02
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HolHorsejob posted:I haven't been following the thread for a long while. I'm curious if tools are still expensive and difficult to procure, particularly hand planes. A few projects I'd like to work on involve planing either individual boards or larger surfaces for gluing, and any combo of power jointer or planer is out of the question (shop space if not money) Seconding Rex Krueger. He answers the exact questions you have and explores the options of new vs used. I wouldn’t rush out and buy a whole set. Start with a jack, see how you go. I have a jointer plane but I very rarely use it and could honestly live without it. If I have to joint long boards I’ll use a combo of a #4 and a 1m straightedge before I reach for a jointer. the scale of stuff I do is mostly pretty small furniture. 70% of my work is done with a #4. Then maybe 25% block plane and 5% jointer. Scrub plane gets some use too.
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Oct 24, 2021 13:13
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Rex just did a video on painting. Wood by Wright just released a bunch of material on replacement parts/upgrades/restoration parts for hand planes, including parts which he's selling.
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Oct 24, 2021 15:04
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HolHorsejob posted:I haven't been following the thread for a long while. I'm curious if tools are still expensive and difficult to procure, particularly hand planes. A few projects I'd like to work on involve planing either individual boards or larger surfaces for gluing, and any combo of power jointer or planer is out of the question (shop space if not money) Doing all hand-tool work, I use a No 4 (smoothing, 9"), 5 (general purpose, 14"), and 8 (flattening, 24"). You can get by with fewer planes, especially if you have power tools on tap. I'd start with a No 5 style jack plane and then get more specialized tools as you find you need them. I think you should consider buying used. I see a bunch of usable vintage No 5s on eBay right now for $50-100 including shipping. If you really don't want to do that, you can get a brand new Veritas (Lee Valley) low-angle jack for under $300 shipped which will probably do everything you need well enough. They have a bevel-up version, more similar to the traditional No 5, for about the same price. Lie Nielsen's No 5 clone is the best you can buy and it's under $400 shipped.
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Oct 24, 2021 15:10
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I've had decent luck with the Grizzly planes. They're not nearly as expensive as the Lie-Nielsen planes and while I can tell where they're worse they also cost like $60 for a smoothing plane that does a totally adequate job. Both of mine came out of the box with needing only sharpening and minimal adjustment.
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Oct 24, 2021 15:13
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Oh and for my own plane arsenal, 90% of my plane work lately has been done with a #4 smoothing, a #4 scrub/cambered, a #5 jack, a 26-inch transitional jointer, and a block plane. I have a bunch of others that I don't use as much because I'm a loving horder. The jointer was under $10 at a local online auction and the thing is pristine and a pleasure to use. I've made some several-foot-long ribbons of shaving while working on my bench. Keep looking and you'll find one at your price.
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Oct 24, 2021 15:31
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I've been absent from this thread for awhile as I had to put all my tools into storage while I was building my new workshop. The structure is up now and i'm slowly moving things in. I've also been gifted a lathe from my mother in law who was given it by her Father back in the early 2000's. Its still working and I'm eager to get it out the box and re-assembled.
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Oct 24, 2021 16:22
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Thanks for the advice, all. I'm going with a new Stanley No. 5, will see how that goes.
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Oct 24, 2021 22:55
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HolHorsejob posted:new Stanley No. 5 Uh oh
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Oct 24, 2021 23:03
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Can I get some advice on sealing wood that will get wet? I've made a ski rack, I needed one anyway but also to do a mini project. I was just going to make it very simply out of spruce but the shop had some nice oak planks with bark on. I left some of the under-bark on, I think it'll look nice if the grain can be seen in the end.  Would it be sensible to epoxy it? Do I need to apply / sand apply in layers? Can I just varnish over the top to get a glossy finish? As you can see, the rest of the house is dark stained wood. I think maybe it would be good to tone the oak down a shade before epoxying/vanishing. What should I use for that?
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Oct 24, 2021 23:25
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Is this plane any good? It seems to be in pretty good condition, and I don't see jointer planes pop up that often. I'm looking for one to flatten my workbench top with. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/602298317778114/ If you can identify what type it is that would be even better. Second-hand planes in Australia tend to be pretty expensive, and I expect to negotiate a bit so don't worry about the price. Flea Bargain fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Oct 25, 2021 |
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Oct 25, 2021 15:31
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Flea Bargain posted:Is this plane any good? It seems to be in pretty good condition, and I don't see jointer planes pop up that often. I'm looking for one to flatten my workbench top with. Looks fine to me. I just bought a Type 7 (1890s-era) no. 7 on eBay yesterday in about the same condition for about the same price (adjusting for conversion to USD). People will tell you you can find better bargains if you search tool swaps and estate sales but I just do not have that kind of time. e: Looks to me like Type 15, 1931-1932. Stultus Maximus fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Oct 25, 2021 |
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Oct 25, 2021 15:45
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Yeah that looks like a beaut. Price seems reasonable too, tbh.
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Oct 25, 2021 16:07
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I made a book, does this count as wood? I used clamps and glue so I felt it was appropriate to post it here     
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Oct 25, 2021 16:59
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Rutibex posted:I made a book, does this count as wood? I used clamps and glue so I felt it was appropriate to post it here Paper is just another wood product so I think it should count. That's pretty neat.
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Oct 25, 2021 17:21
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HolHorsejob posted:Thanks for the advice, all. I'm going with a new Stanley No. 5, will see how that goes. Did you already buy this? Because if not, the thread would like to caution you about brand new Stanley planes. They're not the worst planes on the market, but they're pretty variable in quality. You can assume that you'll need to flatten the sole and sharpen the blade (possibly flatten, re-grind, and sharpen); and you might have to return it for a replacement, maybe more than once, because reportedly some arrive to customers with serious defects. Vintage Stanley planes cost about the same but are much higher quality and a typical one will take about the same amount of effort to tune up. So nobody here recommends new Stanleys.
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Oct 25, 2021 17:34
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I've been thinking of getting a subscription to Fine Woodworking, because I like the idea of project ideas and other tips being delivered to me in an analog form that I can sit outside and read or whatever. Is this a horrible idea, and/or is there a better magazine for woodworking? I'm also being tempted by Fine Homebuilding for basically the same reason. Not that I'm looking for tips on anything specific, but just generally building up my knowledge for when things come up in the future.
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Oct 25, 2021 18:39
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knox_harrington posted:Can I get some advice on sealing wood that will get wet? I've made a ski rack, I needed one anyway but also to do a mini project. I wouldn't personally fool with epoxy-it's a pain in the butt, takes forever, and is very expensive. 5-6 coats of a good quality spar varnish (Epifanes is a good brand that should be available in europe) is good. You can use any kind of wood stain you want underneath it as long as you let the stain dry thoroughly (several days). You need to scuff sand between coats of varnish with 320 grit sandpaper. Each coat of varnish may take a day or 3 to dry depending on environmental conditions. E: FISHMANPET posted:I've been thinking of getting a subscription to Fine Woodworking, because I like the idea of project ideas and other tips being delivered to me in an analog form that I can sit outside and read or whatever. Is this a horrible idea, and/or is there a better magazine for woodworking? I'm also being tempted by Fine Homebuilding for basically the same reason. Not that I'm looking for tips on anything specific, but just generally building up my knowledge for when things come up in the future. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Oct 25, 2021 |
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Oct 25, 2021 18:39
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:E: Yeah, between Bob Flexner and Chris Schwarz, Popular Woodworking would be my preference. I haven't read FWW in a while now, so it's nice to hear they're mixing it up again. It used to be like, for mortise and tenon joints "get out your mortising machine..." instead of a chisel or a drill and chisel like a normal person.
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Oct 25, 2021 18:55
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Leperflesh posted:Did you already buy this? Because if not, the thread would like to caution you about brand new Stanley planes. I considered it, and went with new because: 1. I only buy used when I have experience using the tool and can assess the price/quality/etc. 2. I looked for it on CL/Ebay/FB and the buying process itself is a ton of work and uncertainty (extremely picked over market locally) or it's $120+ for a tool of (to me) unknown condition or waiting for an indeterminate period of time for a "deal" to pop up, which I'm not willing to do before every actually handling the tool I know what everyone is going to say but tbh I don't think it's reasonable to expect everyone that's fresh out of the gate to deal with that.
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Oct 25, 2021 19:33
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Stultus Maximus posted:Yeah, between Bob Flexner and Chris Schwarz, Popular Woodworking would be my preference. I have a subscription and like FWW but it's more or less the home of precision-driven studio furniture. I happen to really like (usually) their aesthetic and like Mike Pekovich and Chris Gochnour, who do a lot of hand tool work. It's mostly worth it for their archives, though.
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Oct 25, 2021 19:40
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HolHorsejob posted:I considered it, and went with new because: No that's all quite reasonable: it's just that Stanley isn't one of the brands this thread recommends for new tools. I'm afraid you may wind up with a new tool that takes just as much work to clean up and use, as a used tool of ultimately better quality. Do let us know how yours comes out, though; and keep your receipt and packaging, so you can return it if you get a dud.
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Oct 25, 2021 19:44
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A perk of membership to OC woodworkers is access to the community library of shared books and periodicals. My dad uses it constantly.
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Oct 25, 2021 19:47
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Leperflesh posted:No that's all quite reasonable: it's just that Stanley isn't one of the brands this thread recommends for new tools. I'm afraid you may wind up with a new tool that takes just as much work to clean up and use, as a used tool of ultimately better quality. I'll keep it in mind. At the end of the day, I'd rather constrain the range of potential problems to those of buying new (quality control, shipping damage, etc.) than those of buying used (waiting poring over listing , not knowing what I'm looking at, tool has dings or rust from negligence, dealing with sellers, etc).
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Oct 25, 2021 20:08
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Not wanting to deal with the hassle/uncertainty/time expenditure involved in vintage tools, and just wanting to buy new is valid. However, modern Stanley is a complete crapshoot quality-wise, so you might very end up with a lot of hassle and time expenditure getting a decent examplar anyway. Edit: Leperflesh already said as much, but it bears repeating I guess.
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Oct 25, 2021 20:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:How to finish exterior wood stuff is really a question of cost/benefit. Yes, you can epoxy it to make it waterproof, and then varnish over the epoxy to protect the epoxy from UV damage, but for the time, cost of materials, and effort, you could probably rebuild your ski rack 3x. Will the rack be under cover or totally exposed to the elements? If you could replace the pine? dowels with oak heartwood or some other rot resistant wood, you could probably leave the whole thing unfinished and get 30+ years out of it if it's not in direct sun/rain. IIRC you're in switzerland or something with what I would imagine is a fairly mild climate as far as wood decay goes. Awesome, thanks. The dowels are beech which I've just read are a bad choice for outdoors. Anything I can do about that? Yeah I'm in Switzerland, I don't think decay as in rot will be a problem as its not humid but it's fairly high up, 1700m/6000ft. Wood does seem disintegrate fairly quickly up here, for instance peoples decks get trashed, which I think is UV plus snow and ice. The rack will be under the eaves of the chalet so somewhat protected. So I guess I'll lightly stain it and give multiple coats of spar varnish, and as and when the beech dowels disintegrate I'll replace them with some oak.
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Oct 25, 2021 21:04
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Is a wood threading tool as useful as I think it is? Hypothetically, they could be used for making vises, handscrew clamps, joinery, or maybe even staked furniture. But also I might just be imagining the potential uses for it to justify buying tools instead of working with what I have. A reamer / cutter combo might provide more utility.
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Oct 25, 2021 21:59
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