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blugu64
Jul 17, 2006

Do you realize that fluoridation is the most monstrously conceived and dangerous communist plot we have ever had to face?
Tried out the resin printer today. Think I’m going to bag it up and return it tomorrow. Got a smoking deal on it, but I’m too concerned about handing resin safely to actually enjoy the process. Honestly it was a bit of a pain. The prints are amazing though, it’s just not for me.

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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Welp I might be buying a new hotend soon anyway. After printing all day today, with a couple hour break here and there, my latest print finished up and was sitting for about 5-10 min.

I cleared the print area, and told it to start the next print. Still with PLA 205/60. And I get the thermal runaway beep during warmup. PID tune seemed to work fine, and preheat after. Started the print again and same thing even though it was only @ 200 vs 205. Watching the temp probe numbers it looks like the ender has no idea what the nozzle is at, and the hotend fan keeps gong on and off.

I'm sure this is just a thermistor thing, but if im taking it all apart anyway... I was already on the microswiss page looking at a nozzle.

Quite annoying. Printed : 15d 1h 20m Since installing jyers

EDIT: Looks to be thermistor wire itself. moving the wires around gives me 190 deg or 0 reading

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Oct 31, 2021

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Guess who just fixed a bunch of weird printing issues by buying a food dehydrator?

<— this guy


Shoulda tried this weeks ago.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
Funny, I had the same experience today.

I was printing some of this lovely glass clear blue PLA from microcenter. It... started getting cloudy, then being unable to stop and start flow. And stringing badly. But it's.. pla? What was I doing wrong?

......... Advice from the Voron group had me dry it.

And now all is good again.

Now.. It prints at PLA temps. But this ain't playing PLA games.

blugu64 posted:

Tried out the resin printer today. Think I’m going to bag it up and return it tomorrow. Got a smoking deal on it, but I’m too concerned about handing resin safely to actually enjoy the process. Honestly it was a bit of a pain. The prints are amazing though, it’s just not for me.

It's not setup yet. But I have determined that it's going to live in my garage.

blugu64
Jul 17, 2006

Do you realize that fluoridation is the most monstrously conceived and dangerous communist plot we have ever had to face?
Honestly that would probably be a decent solution. Played around with it a bit more and realized I just was dreading popping off prints. I’m not a mini figs guy, or trying to make money with it, so the hassle just isn’t worth it to me. Think I’ll exchange it tomorrow for an ender to replace the old makerbot clone and be happy.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

blugu64 posted:

Tried out the resin printer today. Think I’m going to bag it up and return it tomorrow. Got a smoking deal on it, but I’m too concerned about handing resin safely to actually enjoy the process. Honestly it was a bit of a pain. The prints are amazing though, it’s just not for me.

What's painful about it? After reading about how messy, etc, it is, I've been amazed at how non-messy and simple it is.

Cory Parsnipson
Nov 15, 2015
I did a bunch of stuff to make sure it's my print fan that is failing. If I print something that takes at least an hour with the fan on, I get oil splatters on my bed, and the same print with the fan disabled is clean. But what happens if I don't change the fan out? From what I've learned recently, it seems like the fan would start getting noisy then seize up and stop working and for prusas that means prints will fail with "FAN ERR"?

I pulled the trigger on a new fan but I'm kind of dreading taking everything apart... :eng99:

========================

Unrelated question: should I have de-greased and repacked my bearings when I built the MK3S+? This seems like one of those divisive topics from the info I can find on the internet, but a lot of people with some CNC experience like to repack the bearings with white lithium grease. Other sources, including the official assembly manual say that the latest version uses Misumi bearings and that no additional lubrication is necessary.

Cory Parsnipson fucked around with this message at 09:54 on Oct 31, 2021

Here4DaGangBang
Dec 3, 2004

I beat my dick like it owes me money!

Cory Parsnipson posted:

Unrelated question: should I have de-greased and repacked my bearings when I built the MK3S+? This seems like one of those divisive topics from the info I can find on the internet, but a lot of people with some CNC experience like to repack the bearings with white lithium grease. Other sources, including the official assembly manual say that the latest version uses Misumi bearings and that no additional lubrication is necessary.

There will be people who are much more qualified to answer than I am, but given that Prusa is regarded as the gold standard in it-just-worksness in the consumer 3D printing sphere, it seems fair to assume that if their manual says it’s not necessary, you should be fine not to do it. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

blugu64 posted:

Honestly that would probably be a decent solution. Played around with it a bit more and realized I just was dreading popping off prints. I’m not a mini figs guy, or trying to make money with it, so the hassle just isn’t worth it to me. Think I’ll exchange it tomorrow for an ender to replace the old makerbot clone and be happy.

If it's not for you, it's not for you, but I will say that installing a resin flex plate removes most of the worry regarding getting prints off the build plate. However, if you're not comfortable with printing in resin after having tried it, I totally get that too.

Fanged Lawn Wormy
Jan 4, 2008

SQUEAK! SQUEAK! SQUEAK!

Cory Parsnipson posted:

Other sources, including the official assembly manual say that the latest version uses Misumi bearings and that no additional lubrication is necessary.

Misumi is some high quality poo poo. I would t worry about it.

blugu64
Jul 17, 2006

Do you realize that fluoridation is the most monstrously conceived and dangerous communist plot we have ever had to face?

Sydney Bottocks posted:

If it's not for you, it's not for you, but I will say that installing a resin flex plate removes most of the worry regarding getting prints off the build plate. However, if you're not comfortable with printing in resin after having tried it, I totally get that too.

Yeah I’m not sure a flex plate would solve the comfort level for me. The uncured resin just goes beyond my personal comfort level outside of a garage setting. The prints are out of this world though, so I definitely can appreciate why some folks love those machines. Anyone in the North Texas area who wants a mostly full 500ml can of resin is welcome to it. Otherwise I’ll be giving the local makerspace a call and seeing if they know anyone in my area who’d use it.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Ordered 2 more thermistors w/ cables and heaters w/ cables. Ordered the recommended micro Swiss nozzle and got a new heatblock with it as well, as I don;t have confidence that my existing stuff will unscrew nicely.

I really dont need an all metal hotend, so this is still cheaper in the long run with what i am printing. I'll save the high end parts for a new build, this is still just a learning/ hobby machine. All of my stuff was printed and ready to go, and all my new fans arrived, so I guess im doing a full overhaul this week at some point

insta
Jan 28, 2009
That'll be a good replacement regardless.

Bodanarko
May 29, 2009
Latest uncle jessy video is a great demonstration of 3d scanning via phone that doesn’t suck rear end. Using EM3D (free but 6.99 to unlock exporting .OBJ) and an iPhone or iPad with FaceID, you can use the front facing camera and FaceID IR array to get very high quality 3D scans of faces/heads (presumably things head sized or larger would work too). Then using whatever 3D modeler of your choice, you can clean it all up and print, or in his case, use it as a template for making a mask.

Far and above better than any results I got with photogrammetry alone even with the LIDAR on some iPhones, and I’ll have nice busts printed out in FDM and in resin tomorrow from 10 minutes spent scanning and cleaning up the scan.

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?

withak posted:

Guess who just fixed a bunch of weird printing issues by buying a food dehydrator?

<— this guy


Shoulda tried this weeks ago.

Totally what I've been saying. I was loving shocked at how much my print quality improved when I started religiously drying filament, even regular old PLA that really didn't seem to have much of an opportunity to absorb moisture.

I'm pretty convinced at this point that slightly "wet" filament is responsible for tons and tons FDM issues that people waste hours chasing after.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Does anyone have a tool kit or particular implements they like for removing FDM support material?

Or a set of heat resistant work gloves?

Deviant fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Nov 2, 2021

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Flush cutters and and Xacto knife to clean it up.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


smax posted:

Flush cutters and and Xacto knife to clean it up.

what about for weird, hard to reach places? That also seems more appropriate for a resin print?

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Flush cutters and a set of needle-nose pliers with good teeth, imo. Maybe a set of dental picks.

Using knives to remove support material is a good way to stab yourself and it shouldn't be necessary if your print settings are right.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

For PLA it should just peel off. PETG/ABS can be a bit more stubborn, but again, if the settings are right, it should be easy. It's worth experimenting with the support interface settings in prusaslicer.

Talorat
Sep 18, 2007

Hahaha! Aw come on, I can't tell you everything right away! That would make for a boring story, don't you think?
Is there a write up anywhere that gives the pros and cons of various filament materials? I’d like to learn more about what is best suited for what.

Also does anyone know if you can recycle PLA prints in the United States?

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


so, it turns out you pretty much can't recycle any plastic anywhere

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Talorat posted:

Is there a write up anywhere that gives the pros and cons of various filament materials? I’d like to learn more about what is best suited for what.

Also does anyone know if you can recycle PLA prints in the United States?

https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials

Click the little ⓘ beside the filament name to find out more about it.

PLA is not generally recycled in the USA, no. It's a type 7 ♹ plastic, "all other plastics," so almost no recycling centers will take it. When they do, it will just be shredded and turned into filler for certain types of composites.

It is biodegradable, but only in an industrial composter, which maintains 100% humidity at ~60 celsius for a couple of months at a time. Few places in the country have those facilities, either. Seems like a plausible goon project though!

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Talorat posted:

Is there a write up anywhere that gives the pros and cons of various filament materials? I’d like to learn more about what is best suited for what.

Also does anyone know if you can recycle PLA prints in the United States?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPh1b2EOOz0

csammis
Aug 26, 2003

Mental Institution

Talorat posted:

Is there a write up anywhere that gives the pros and cons of various filament materials? I’d like to learn more about what is best suited for what.

There is one linked in the OP in one of the sections on FDM.

quote:

Also does anyone know if you can recycle PLA prints in the United States?

No it can’t. PLA can be composted by industrial processes (not your backyard compost heap but high temperatures and pressures humidity) but it isn’t recyclable anywhere as far as I know. Periodically someone will come up with a process for grinding up print scraps to make “new” filament but it’s not an economical process at all.

Talorat
Sep 18, 2007

Hahaha! Aw come on, I can't tell you everything right away! That would make for a boring story, don't you think?
Huh, I live in Seattle and we actually do have industrial composting here, I’ll have to see if it’s sufficient for PLA, thanks all!

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


The composters also don't want it because it takes too long to degrade, doesn't contribute any nutrients, and probably contains unknown additives

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

BMan posted:

so, it turns out you pretty much can't recycle any plastic anywhere

Correct! The recycling symbol is one of the most successfully propaganda programs in recent history. Less than 10% of plastic gets recycled, and now that China no longer buys our plastic waste, that's probably dropping even further. We burn more plastic for fuel than we recycle.

https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling/plastics-material-specific-data

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah recycling was a (in the 1970s) "too hard to solve now, let's train everyone to do it now, and we'll figure it out when technology improves, or economy of scale makes it economically viable"

It just never penciled out economically

There's a handful of consumer product companies now that sell refills in glass or extruded aluminum, but they're in the vast minority, and priced for the 2% and up income group

Fanged Lawn Wormy
Jan 4, 2008

SQUEAK! SQUEAK! SQUEAK!

Deviant posted:

Does anyone have a tool kit or particular implements they like for removing FDM support material?

Or a set of heat resistant work gloves?

I bought a set of these: https://www.aventools.com/soldering-aids-6-pc-kit

I also use them for my electronics stuff, as they are meant to be. The curled picks are kind of fragile, but the straight ones and the two chisels are excellent. You can get them a few places - amazon, digikey to start.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

Finished my new longest print at nearly 27 hours

Cory Parsnipson
Nov 15, 2015

Chainclaw posted:

Finished my new longest print at nearly 27 hours



Wow, that looks great! Are you using 0.07mm layers or something?

e.

csammis posted:

There is one linked in the OP in one of the sections on FDM.

No it can’t. PLA can be composted by industrial processes (not your backyard compost heap but high temperatures and pressures humidity) but it isn’t recyclable anywhere as far as I know. Periodically someone will come up with a process for grinding up print scraps to make “new” filament but it’s not an economical process at all.

BMan posted:

so, it turns out you pretty much can't recycle any plastic anywhere

Sagebrush posted:

https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials

Click the little ⓘ beside the filament name to find out more about it.

PLA is not generally recycled in the USA, no. It's a type 7 ♹ plastic, "all other plastics," so almost no recycling centers will take it. When they do, it will just be shredded and turned into filler for certain types of composites.

It is biodegradable, but only in an industrial composter, which maintains 100% humidity at ~60 celsius for a couple of months at a time. Few places in the country have those facilities, either. Seems like a plausible goon project though!

:eyepop: well, this is... disheartening... I've almost got a tissue box of scrap PLA prints filled up. What's the least worst option of getting rid of it?

I did a quick search and there's a couple articles about "Project PLA" which is someone's attempt to aggregate people's waste prints and then send huge bundles to industrial recyclers. This sounds like a cool idea. What's the consensus on this?

Cory Parsnipson fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Nov 2, 2021

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Cory Parsnipson posted:

:eyepop: well, this is... disheartening... I've almost got a tissue box of scrap PLA prints filled up. What's the least worst option of getting rid of it?

I did a quick search and there's a couple articles about "Project PLA" which is someone's attempt to aggregate people's waste prints and then send huge bundles to industrial recyclers. This sounds like a cool idea. What's the consensus on this?

Trashcan so it goes direct to the landfill and has less of a chance of ending up in the ocean. AFAIK Project PLA is already dead.

PLA is better for the environment than most plastics since it's made from corn and not petroleum, but other than that, it's just another plastic that can't realistically be recycled.

If you want you can hold onto it for a few years and see if another Project PLA kicks off, but I don't see that happening in a sustainable way considering the environmental cost of shipping a crate of plastic.

This Maker's Muse video is extremely timely:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCsnVp6mEbk

Cory Parsnipson
Nov 15, 2015
Interesting video! I don't think printing with cellulose acetate is the way to go. It breaks down too readily for any print you'd want to keep around, which is the opposite problem of other plastics. It's really hard to design a material that will biodegrade when you don't want it around but not degrade when you want to keep it. Man, environmentally friendliness is a really difficult problem.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Also good loving luck finding cellulose filament literally anywhere.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Homofaciens is continuing to work on a direct pellet extruder. His pellets are largely blended up PLA scrap which are filtered to size. It's still pretty early in development and may forever be just another guy's attempt at reuse, but he's getting good prints out of it. One interesting thing is that his heatbreak is PTFE through a thick piece of glass due to low thermal conductivity of glass.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oH-e_poDeYE

I know other extrude your own at home products often require adding virgin PLA pellets to whatever else you're putting in, but a lot of them are also attempting to make new 1.75mm filament instead of just pushing it through to the nozzle.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

Cory Parsnipson posted:

Wow, that looks great! Are you using 0.07mm layers or something?

0.15 mm, it's been pretty good for warhammer terrain so far.

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


So I decided to disassemble the CR-10S and keep it for spares/potential CoreXY build in the future. Picked up an Ender 3 Pro V2 (that's a mouthful) to keep my habit alive. I very rarely ever utilized the benefits of the 300mm plate, so I'm happy to reclaim the office space.

We'll see how it goes on Friday.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


"your prusa mini has shipped"

"woohoo!"

"from the czech republic."

"D'oh!"

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SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Deviant posted:

"your prusa mini has shipped"

"woohoo!"

"from the czech republic."

"D'oh!"

Literally neighboring coUntry for me so I'd love to get one someday

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