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Cory Parsnipson posted:Maybe it's cooling related? The part you're zoomed into is on the opposite side of the fan right? It might be helpful to run the self test and try and see if the fan isn't a dud. I could be biased though, because I'm dealing with a cooling related issue on mine. The self test reports both fans as good, on a few tries. Good thinking though.
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Nov 8, 2021 21:50
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Putty posted:Anyone have recommendations for a transparent colorless PLA? Working on a project where I'll need to light up small parts from behind with LEDs. Been looking at comparisons on Greybeard3D but am indecisive on it. A bit of fogginess is ok. nthing transparent PETG, it's my new favorite filament for practical prints, I wish someone sold it in 5kg rolls to just leave loaded
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Nov 8, 2021 22:01
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Deviant posted:Ugh, I cannot loving win with this Mini. Those kind of look like sliiiiightly messy seams where the layers stop/start. On smooth, convex curved objects like that there is nowhere for a seam to hide so virtually anything stands out like a sore thumb.
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Nov 8, 2021 22:04
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First picture looks like that (especially since the zits are on the side facing the next object) but the 2nd seems to have something else going on; there are a bunch of marks on a single layer. Seems to only be that one layer so maybe the machine got wobbled or something.
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Nov 8, 2021 22:08
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The Eyes Have It posted:Those kind of look like sliiiiightly messy seams where the layers stop/start. On smooth, convex curved objects like that there is nowhere for a seam to hide so virtually anything stands out like a sore thumb. This tracks but the skulls are chock full of curved surfaces and they came out beautifully. These are more perfectly circular though so you could be right
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Nov 8, 2021 22:09
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Deviant posted:This tracks but the skulls are chock full of curved surfaces and they came out beautifully. These are more perfectly circular though so you could be right That looks like some kind of weird deformation more than zits, is that just a trick of the light? You should be able to see the zits in the slicer also for reference.
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Nov 8, 2021 22:24
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poll plane variant posted:That looks like some kind of weird deformation more than zits, is that just a trick of the light? You should be able to see the zits in the slicer also for reference. Here's another photo in different lighting, there's definitely a tangible roughness:  It's not possible that my UPS i have this and my mk3s plugged into could be causing issues, is it? The MK3S has been on it without complaint, and the UPS itself doesn't seem to exhibit any load issues. Edit: though i did see the stringing plugged straight into a wall outlet before i moved the printer to my office Deviant fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Nov 8, 2021 |
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Nov 8, 2021 22:50
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Do you mean this stuff? If so, those are the layer start/end points, and the fix is mostly hiding them or putting them on a corner that's easy to sand
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Nov 8, 2021 22:53
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Javid posted:Do you mean this stuff? Ok, I've never seen that before even in round objects but I guess I'm just driving myself neurotic now
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Nov 8, 2021 22:58
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Javid posted:Do you mean this stuff? Or tweak coast + retraction.
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Nov 8, 2021 23:57
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You may be able to reduce the size of them with settings tweaking but there will always be something visible where each layer starts & stops. When your object has a corner or an edge the slicer is supposed to hide them there, but with round objects they are always visible. You can locate them on the least visible side with the seam painter in Prusaslicer (or maybe sand them off), or there is an option to scatter them at random around the object.
withak fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Nov 9, 2021 |
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Nov 9, 2021 00:29
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Deviant posted:Ok, I've never seen that before even in round objects but I guess I'm just driving myself neurotic now This is fixed with pressure advance. Or.. I think.. coating? It's doable.
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Nov 9, 2021 00:37
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My understanding was that prusaslicer doesn't do coasting, but I'll look into it
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Nov 9, 2021 00:57
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Prusaslicer on Printer: Extruder1 'retraction' (1mm) 'minimal travel after retraction' (2mm) 'wipe while retracting' (on) 'retraction amount before wipe' (50%) I have a highend DD extruder, so YMMV.
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Nov 9, 2021 01:03
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Prusaslicer on Printer: Extruder1 Prusaslicer defaults already have me at: retraction: 3.2mm minimal travel after retraction: 1.5mm wipe: on retract amount: 70 I could turn that retraction amount up, but can't that cause jamming?
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Nov 9, 2021 01:15
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Deviant posted:Prusaslicer defaults already have me at: It can if the hot filament gets way back past the melt zone in the heater but it may be worth trying a little more retraction since it's not directly pulling the plastic back that much so much as pulling filament back to reduce the pressure in the nozzle and hopefully prevent oozing. I have my Sunlu S8 at 5mm which is similar to a CR-10, but my direct drive monoprice maker select is at 1mm or so. Length of the bowden tube and therefore extrusion pressures over distance will be a determining factor. I'd google around to see what other folks have tried on the mini since it's a popular printer.
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Nov 9, 2021 01:44
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Rexxed posted:It can if the hot filament gets way back past the melt zone in the heater but it may be worth trying a little more retraction since it's not directly pulling the plastic back that much so much as pulling filament back to reduce the pressure in the nozzle and hopefully prevent oozing. I have my Sunlu S8 at 5mm which is similar to a CR-10, but my direct drive monoprice maker select is at 1mm or so. Length of the bowden tube and therefore extrusion pressures over distance will be a determining factor. I'd google around to see what other folks have tried on the mini since it's a popular printer. I'd be interested in how people have it set on the MK3+ as well
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Nov 9, 2021 01:46
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I've been running into this particular issue a few times recently -- when I print super thin parts (ie. bowstrings or arrows) in resin the thin part warps very badly after it's all processed. Sometimes it straightens back again after drying, but other times it never does. Any advice/tips on what to do in these cases? Like in the image below where the arrow has dried warped. 
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Nov 9, 2021 03:01
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I have been experimenting with adding glitter mica into resin and the answer to "how much glitter mica can you add to resin before your prints fail" is "not very much, turns out" but UV glowing mica? go fuckin ham you can add that poo poo for days
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Nov 9, 2021 03:35
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InternetJunky posted:I've been running into this particular issue a few times recently -- when I print super thin parts (ie. bowstrings or arrows) in resin the thin part warps very badly after it's all processed. Sometimes it straightens back again after drying, but other times it never does. Any advice/tips on what to do in these cases? i like his fancy arrow
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Nov 9, 2021 03:36
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Ah, the ol' archer's paradox.
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Nov 9, 2021 04:04
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InternetJunky posted:I've been running into this particular issue a few times recently -- when I print super thin parts (ie. bowstrings or arrows) in resin the thin part warps very badly after it's all processed. Sometimes it straightens back again after drying, but other times it never does. Any advice/tips on what to do in these cases? I have had something like this happen when I was removing supports prior to completely post-curing. The way I've had it described to me is that the supports help keep the shape of the model as it's post-curing, and by removing them early you're allowing the material to cure in weird ways like that. If you're removing supports prior to post-curing, try leaving them on while curing and see if it helps. Zorro KingOfEngland fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Nov 9, 2021 |
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Nov 9, 2021 04:47
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Sockser posted:I have been experimenting with adding glitter mica into resin and the answer to "how much glitter mica can you add to resin before your prints fail" is "not very much, turns out" Is there any sort of iridescent compound or dye I can add to a clear resin? It should look like synthwave and vaporwave threw up. My white whale is the Promare burnish flame effect without any sort of post processing 
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Nov 9, 2021 04:50
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Cory Parsnipson posted:I now think I got a defective fan from the beginning because a lot of times when I ran the self test, it would ask me if both fans were spinning and then just said everything was fine when I entered in "yes". Every time except one, both fans were spinning. You may have had a defective 5015 from the start but that part of the self-test is just because the electronics don't read the tachometer wire coming from the fan so they get you to visually confirm that they're spinning
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Nov 9, 2021 04:55
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mewse posted:You may have had a defective 5015 from the start but that part of the self-test is just because the electronics don't read the tachometer wire coming from the fan so they get you to visually confirm that they're spinning Have they changed this? Neither of my prusas ever asked me if the fans were spinning, they autodetected.
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Nov 9, 2021 05:00
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Yeah same actually. When I first got it the self test just automatically detected it and just went straight to "OK" for both fans. Then the self test seemed to consistently ask me whether or not the fans were spinning. I think it asks you if it cant reliably read the signal. I guess if it needs to ask then it should just tell you to replace the fan instead. Not sure lol
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Nov 9, 2021 05:22
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Deviant posted:Have they changed this? Neither of my prusas ever asked me if the fans were spinning, they autodetected. Oh it might've changed for the mk3 control board, my experience was with mk2/mk2.5
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Nov 9, 2021 05:26
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InternetJunky posted:I've been running into this particular issue a few times recently -- when I print super thin parts (ie. bowstrings or arrows) in resin the thin part warps very badly after it's all processed. Sometimes it straightens back again after drying, but other times it never does. Any advice/tips on what to do in these cases? I'd like to point out that this bow's limbs are not bent as they should be, making the string comically long, also the draw length is way too long, the artist should fix this 
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Nov 9, 2021 05:28
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InternetJunky posted:I've been running into this particular issue a few times recently -- when I print super thin parts (ie. bowstrings or arrows) in resin the thin part warps very badly after it's all processed. Sometimes it straightens back again after drying, but other times it never does. Any advice/tips on what to do in these cases? plenty of supports left in place during curing is generally the best you can do without redesigning the part to inherently be more resistant to warping (i.e. adding a rib to reinforce a thin and warp-prone area). i find the print orientation can also have a big impact on stability, like a thin rod printed standing on end will be more stable than one printed at an angle, but it isn't usually worth reorienting the whole model to suit one small troubled bit; if you can slice and dice the model, printing the trickiest bits on their own and with an ideal setup might be worth your time, then reassemble and glue before painting.
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Nov 9, 2021 05:56
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Deviant posted:Is there any sort of iridescent compound or dye I can add to a clear resin? It should look like synthwave and vaporwave threw up. If you want to get cool swirly effects, you’re out of luck. The build plate will just agitate whatever into a smooth brew However, basically any fluorescent mica powder you can find on Amazon can be mixed in to reasonable results E: or alcohol inks if you’re just looking for a specific color resin
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Nov 9, 2021 06:08
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Deviant posted:Is there a recommended food dehydrator? I have the sunlu box but I use that for filament dispensing on active prints. You can turn on the heat while it's printing. Also don't use a lighter, us a heat gun for getting rid of stringing. Also I had my first ever PLA blob build up on the MK3+ hot end, and while cleaning it I managed to break the thermistor wire.  Welp, I guess I have to remember how to take the hot end apart again, unless someone has an easier way. It doesn't look very accessible like the Ender hot end.
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Nov 9, 2021 15:45
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Doctor Zero posted:You can turn on the heat while it's printing. Also don't use a lighter, us a heat gun for getting rid of stringing. I have blobbed up my hot end so many dang time And the first time I just called it a wash and tore the entire thing apart to get it out and clean it And then later I stumbled on this guide from prusa which has been invaluable https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-replace-a-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664
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Nov 9, 2021 15:54
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Doctor Zero posted:You can turn on the heat while it's printing. Also don't use a lighter, us a heat gun for getting rid of stringing. Friend, I live in Florida. The heat gets turned on one day a year to burn the dust off. Sockser posted:If you want to get cool swirly effects, you’re out of luck. The build plate will just agitate whatever into a smooth brew Yeah, unfortunately i'd absolutely want that iridescent shimmer:  our current solution is to print in clear/transparent and then put colored lights inside
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Nov 9, 2021 17:07
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Deviant posted:Friend, I live in Florida. The heat gets turned on one day a year to burn the dust off. So something that you could potentially do maybe hypothetically Is print a perfectly clear model, hollowed, clean and cure it, and then slowly fill it with different colored resins, curing them individually as you go This is a pretty neat idea and I may actually gently caress around with it Or you could add different colored resins to your vat as it prints to get a cool gradient as it prints, I’ve definitely seen some YouTubers do that (maybe Billie Rubens?) e: approximate timestamp here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNgtWLBs4tc&t=620s
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Nov 9, 2021 17:14
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Sockser posted:So something that you could potentially do maybe hypothetically to each point: 1) wouldn't this use a ton of resin, weigh a ton, and not cure the center fully? 2) I like this a lot but i'm hesitant to run lean on resin and fully babysit a 7 hour print. It's an interesting idea though
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Nov 9, 2021 17:17
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Deviant posted:to each point: I've got a new resin printer with a clean vat showing up later today so we're gonna fuckin find out
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Nov 9, 2021 17:21
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Sockser posted:I've got a new resin printer with a clean vat showing up later today so we're gonna fuckin find out Well, it's worth noting that uncured resin eventually offgasses and causes parts to explode, so uh, keep an eye on it I guess? Edit: how long has there been a 3d printer gang tag. i gotta get me that thing. Edit edit: aww yeah Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Nov 9, 2021 |
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Nov 9, 2021 17:23
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Sockser posted:So something that you could potentially do maybe hypothetically Assuming the clear resin is fully UV-transparent you could fill it up say a third of the way, leave it in the curing station long enough to cure a cm or two of it it (maybe blocking off the top surface to stop it curing for ease of the next step), pour it out leaving the cured shell behind, then fill up with another colour two thirds of the way, etc. Might get some weird/interesting effects as the subsequent colours cure to the previous ones. As it's hollow you could also then use a UV torch or strip to cure the inside fully too. (Note - I know absolutely nothing about resin printing, this is just something I've done with wax and cold water to produce interesting weird candles)
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Nov 9, 2021 17:44
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Could I just add fine iridescent glitter, or would that gently caress up the print (and potentially the vat)?
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Nov 9, 2021 17:46
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You folks have helped me before, but I'm a little stuck with parts losing bed adhesion again. I'm printing PLA on a Prusa Mk3, on the smooth sheet. I was having similar issues to last time in that I was getting a few layers in and then the head was picking up the part and moving it around. I added some glue to the bed (glue stick that came with the printer) and added a 10mm brim and that helped a lot, but then it happened again right at the last few layers (after 4 hours of printing):  I'd like to set a bunch of these printing while I'm away over the weekend (fire hazard?) and it'd be great not to come back to a lumpy puddle of white plastic. Any tips? I have the textured sheet available if that'd do better.
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