|
There's an Octoprint plugin called Cancelobject that lets you cancel one item on a build plate of multiple items. I haven't mastered figuring out which is which in the list but it has saved a big build plate a couple of times. Oh and the print has to be sliced so it can tell the objects apart, I'm not sure that it will work in all instances since it's just filtering gcode to generate its list.
Rexxed fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Nov 11, 2021 |
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 03:33 |
|
|
Any wall art like this out there thats less nerdy? https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/63640-death-star-diorama-trench-run Im Moving into a new place and looking for some large format prints I can use to add some texture to a gallery wall
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:16
|
|
|
Anyone wanna make $20? I wanna replace my dead Tronxy board with an SKR, Spider, or Octopus. If you can configure and compile Marlin for a Tronxy X5SA with a reverse geared direct drive extruder, and it works, I'll literally give you $20. I can give you the settings, I just can't for the life of me approach getting each and every single configuration setting right.
MJP fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Nov 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:17
|
|
|
MJP posted:Anyone wanna make $20? I wanna replace my dead Tronxy board with an SKR. If you can configure and compile Marlin for a Tronxy X5SA with a reverse geared direct drive extruder, and it works, I'll literally give you $20. I can give you the settings, I just can't for the life of me approach getting each and every single configuration setting right. EDIT: Which SKR board? Here is a rundown of what you need to set Marlin 2.0 up on the stock board https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/import-2.0.x/config/examples/Tronxy/X5SA/HOWTO-INSTALL.md EDIT 2: Caveat Emptor, but this might be what you're looking for. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3931180/files Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Nov 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:28
|
|
|
Sigh. Remember to double-check that your new hotend isn't a mm or two longer than your old one requiring a sensor reset, people. In related news - is there any way of dealing with a PEI sheet with a big gouge out of it? I'm guessing just sand it flat and be careful to not use that bit of the plate for anything requiring a completely flat bottom. I know I could just buy a new sheet but  in getting the old one on and getting the new one on perfectly, and it just seems decadent to buy a whole new plate with it pre-installed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:29
|
|
|
Are you still messing around with an Anet 3d printer? I thought those things were garbage fires waiting to happen.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:31
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Are you still messing around with an Anet 3d printer? I thought those things were garbage fires waiting to happen. It's a Labists, a company that doesn't even do 3D printers any more, but yeah it's a rebadged Anet. Actually works fine for almost all of my purposes, almost every problem I've had with it has been through my own idiocy - e.g. not bothering to re-level (which would have shown me the sensor was in the wrong place) before testing it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:35
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:EDIT: Which SKR board? The stock board is fried and dead. Earlier post has all the details. Gonna be an SKR2 - if I ever do decide to go Voron in the future, I might as well have one of the boards available. X5S has a different display than the SA, maybe other differences too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:35
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Any wall art like this out there thats less nerdy? What about reliefs? (ie. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1383845) I think there's even apps that will turn a 2d photo into one.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:43
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:What about reliefs? (ie. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1383845) There is, it was posted in the old thread, let me see if I can find it. e: Found it: https://3dp.rocks/lithophane/ ee: Actually that wasn't the thing I was thinking of but might still be needs-suiting for OP, there's definitely something else that can make more traditional relief-type prints from a 2D image. goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Nov 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:45
|
|
|
MJP posted:The stock board is fried and dead. Earlier post has all the details. Gonna be an SKR2 - if I ever do decide to go Voron in the future, I might as well have one of the boards available. I'd suggest searching the Github repositories for the specific configuration you're doing, or posting a ticket asking if anybody else can help set it up. EDIT: Google points to this video on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_nK6qtgKT4 And that video has this onedrive repository for what they did: https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%21AAzpQiaPXHuZxTg&id=D7BAB4177AEDA67E%2178058&cid=D7BAB4177AEDA67E EDIT 2: If you go up one folder level in that One-Drive you'll find a bunch of interesting Tronxy X5 stuff. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Nov 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 21:01
|
|
|
MJP posted:Anyone wanna make $20? I wanna replace my dead Tronxy board with an SKR, Spider, or Octopus. If you can configure and compile Marlin for a Tronxy X5SA with a reverse geared direct drive extruder, and it works, I'll literally give you $20. I can give you the settings, I just can't for the life of me approach getting each and every single configuration setting right. I know it's too late at this point, but when I replaced the extruder on my Sunlu S8 and it required the stepper to run the other direction, I repinned the plug so it works backwards since I can adjust the steps from the interface on the printer but not the direction. Yeah, it was a lazy hack but it works and I didn't feel like trying to update the firmware on the mainboard or replace it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 21:07
|
|
|
Except I don't want to search. I enjoy spending 3D printing time tweaking settings and trying to get an object to print. Or getting better at designing them. My troubles all began with trying to modify firmware. I get that this stuff is out there - I am so intimidated by a LOT of trial and error that led to no usable 3D printer for a lot of its life. This is my second shot at 3D printing, the first was an Ender 3 v2 which had all kinds of dumb poo poo break. The only times I've had bad luck with 3D printers was when I followed something that didn't have explicit, start-to-finish directions, or "here are the exact steps you need to take to do this". I need to build back some confidence, and I'm not going to gain it back by spending a lot of time and effort to maybe get it right. The documentation in this guy's repo is just screenshots - I don't know what, if anything, I need to change between an X5S and X5SA. I don't trust myself to do this anymore. I can buy the board and move everything over, do new cables for it, etc. I'm not intimidated by that part - I just don't find the firmware futzing fun and am willing to pay someone to configure and compile so I don't have to do it. I can at least get a fresh start that way, and anything afterwards is on me to learn. Rexxed posted:I know it's too late at this point, but when I replaced the extruder on my Sunlu S8 and it required the stepper to run the other direction, I repinned the plug so it works backwards since I can adjust the steps from the interface on the printer but not the direction. Yeah, it was a lazy hack but it works and I didn't feel like trying to update the firmware on the mainboard or replace it. I didn't have a crimper or the other stuff required to redo cables, crimps, etc. I ordered some a day or so before I blew out the board, so yeah, things I wish I'd told myself about in hindsight D: It would have saved me massive amounts of headache had I known, but you are very right in that I should have done that instead of listening to advice from the Tronxy Discord. I can probably at least learn how to strip/cut/crimp cables. MJP fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Nov 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 21:12
|
|
|
Shoulda bought a Pru--(USER WAS SACKED FOR THIS POST)
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 21:26
|
|
|
I honestly should have. 3D printing is not for someone who doesn't have the time AND inclination. Trying hard not to bitch but it sure as hell isn't easy to learn with the community. Or at least the Tronxy community. Hell, it's like the second you step outside the Prusa or Creality world, you're on your own. :-/ ADHD doesn't help at all either At least the enforced break from Aliexpress shipping will give me some time to recover.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 21:51
|
|
|
MJP posted:I didn't have a crimper or the other stuff required to redo cables, crimps, etc. I ordered some a day or so before I blew out the board, so yeah, things I wish I'd told myself about in hindsight D: It would have saved me massive amounts of headache had I known, but you are very right in that I should have done that instead of listening to advice from the Tronxy Discord. You don't need to crimp anything for that, it can be tricky but you can push the conductors out of the plastic plug and put them back in a different order. Most printers use bipolar steppers so there's four conductors, two for each winding in the stepper. To reverse, one winding needs to run the other way, so you find the two pins for one of the motor winding and reverse them on the plug. I did use a little pin removal kit I got on ebay to get the connectors out of the plug and it's kind of a pain and a hack compared to updating the firmware, but it works and was fast. A small screwdriver can work, too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgyNM7FQrmk&t=108s You do have to be careful to make sure you aren't connecting the wires from one coil to another one somehow since that can often kill stepper drivers. Test the pins with a multimeter to be sure.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 22:14
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Any wall art like this out there thats less nerdy? Not exactly what you want but I made this a while ago: 
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 00:11
|
|
|
Chernabog posted:Not exactly what you want but I made this a while ago: Oh god now I want to make wireframe models of the ships from OG Elite. Need to get some appropriate phosphor-tinge green filament and I'll make a fortune from the nerds.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 00:53
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:I'll make a fortune from the nerds. (I would buy this)
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 01:19
|
|
|
Creality's having a 11/11 sale: https://www.creality3dofficial.com/ from: https://slickdeals.net/f/15392110-creality-3d-printers-sale-ender-5-pro-301-ender-3-v2-204-50-more?src=frontpage quote:Creality 3D Official has select Creality 3D Printers/Resin/Filament on sale listed below. Shipping is free.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 01:30
|
|
|
That ender 6 is mighty tempting but I have no idea how it would stack up against my lil voron 0.1
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 02:22
|
|
|
How's the Creality filament? I've used Hatchbox (fine) and microcenter's inland (better)
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 02:31
|
|
|
Is a Dremel 3d20 worth $200 bux? I saw someone was selling it near me and that they barely used it, wondering if it's decent to put alongside a Mini and a MK3. I really enjoy having the two and the Dremel looks pretty coo' but I don't know much about that line of printers.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 02:43
|
|
|
Dremel 3d printers are cinder blocks. Do not buy.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 02:52
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:Sigh. Remember to double-check that your new hotend isn't a mm or two longer than your old one requiring a sensor reset, people. quoting this because i definitely didnt just do the same thing to one side of my prusa mini sheet when i brain farted during calibration.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 03:42
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Dremel 3d printers are cinder blocks. This. They're the Keurig 2.0 of 3D printers, if not worse. They might work fine (I haven't used one) but the filament lock in is loving stupid.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 04:08
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Any wall art like this out there thats less nerdy? Re: wall art. I think I found what I'm looking for. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/3d-wall-panel-6 There are a few different styles,. It I'm thinking of printing enough of these to fill a 18x24 inch frame. PLA should be fine for long term looks right? Considering ultra Matt white pla, or possibly just printing it and painting it after some post proccessing
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 05:42
|
|
|
Deviant posted:quoting this because i definitely didnt just do the same thing to one side of my prusa mini sheet when i brain farted during calibration. Flip the sheet over and don't worry about the gouged side?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 11:47
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Flip the sheet over and don't worry about the gouged side? Not really an option because a) there's no PEI on the other side of the steel bed and b) the gouge is raised up so will make the plate uneven and wobbly.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 13:58
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:Not really an option because a) there's no PEI on the other side of the steel bed and b) the gouge is raised up so will make the plate uneven and wobbly. You can kind of try to put some kapton in the gouge but the best solutions are to print around the bad spot or replace the sheet.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 14:20
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Flip the sheet over and don't worry about the gouged side? Doing this.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 14:29
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:Not really an option because a) there's no PEI on the other side of the steel bed and b) the gouge is raised up so will make the plate uneven and wobbly. I was talking to the person with the Prusa that has the superior flexible bed plates (both sides have the same coating, so you can print on either side).
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 14:41
|
|
|
Sockser posted:You’re going to do a lot better with PETG over PLA for one   Went with Overture PETG and used the settings in the Prusa vid/blog. Came out much better than I expected for the first time! Only problem right now is that white cap on the top of both of them (the one on the right in the first pic was printed upside down). Gonna be hell to experiment with settings changes considering one of these is over a 7 hour print with the 100% infill and 20% speed. Gonna do some sanding and see if that changes anything, although it looks internal?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 15:12
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:This is the way. https://www.yeggi.com/q/elite+cobra/ Someone's already done the 3D models, from all the various versions of the game - think I'm going to have to grab some glow-in-the-dark filament for that proper BBC monitor glow.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 15:34
|
|
|
Putty posted:
Yeah, you aren't going to get perfectly transparent anything with FDM when you're printing curved surfaces because of the light refraction in the layer lines. Folks have trouble even when printing mostly-vertical/straight vase objects doing that. As for the cloudy look to the tips of those, that's all down to the amount of time that passes between each layer being applied in a given location. Notice how clear the sides are? That's because each layer on those sides had time to cool a bit before the next layer was applied. The tips did not have the same cooling time, so when the next hot layer of PETG was put down, it kept a higher temperature and you end up with that clouding effect. People that have experience with machining acrylics see the same effect if they run things so that the acrylic piece is subjected to certain heating and cooling shocks (at the other end from the conditions that make acrylic crack). If it wouldn't melt and deform your print you could try carefully using a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the tips until they clear up again, but that looks like a really delicate print and may fail altogether.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 15:49
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Yeah, you aren't going to get perfectly transparent anything with FDM when you're printing curved surfaces because of the light refraction in the layer lines. Folks have trouble even when printing mostly-vertical/straight vase objects doing that. Maybe playing with the minimum layer time setting (increasing it) would help if that's the issue.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 16:10
|
|
|
armorer posted:Maybe playing with the minimum layer time setting (increasing it) would help if that's the issue. When I hosed around with trying to get clear PETG prints back in 2016-or-so, it helped to do that but when something has a dome shape like that the very tip/last few layers would start to drag around with the nozzle if layer time was too high (remember that the nozzle is still imparting heat to the filament while the distance between trace paths decreases).
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 16:19
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:When I hosed around with trying to get clear PETG prints back in 2016-or-so, it helped to do that but when something has a dome shape like that the very tip/last few layers would start to drag around with the nozzle if layer time was too high (remember that the nozzle is still imparting heat to the filament while the distance between trace paths decreases). The other thing people mention sometimes is printing a second or third object spaced at a good distance on the print bed, kinda serves a similar purpose.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 16:22
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Re: wall art. I think I found what I'm looking for. That is rad as hell, I love this idea  quote:PLA should be fine for long term looks right? Does the wall get sunlight? UV will probably discolor it over time. quote:Considering ultra Matt white pla, or possibly just printing it and painting it after some post proccessing If it were me I’d go the painting route with PLA for two reasons: UV resistance, and white PLA is a notorious bitch to print with because titanium dioxide inhibits good printing properties.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 16:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 03:33 |
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Any wall art like this out there thats less nerdy? Some folks have done city height maps. They don’t distribute the STLs but base data is all free government heightmaps that you can price together yourself. There’s a tutorial out there somewhere, but I couldn’t find it. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 16:47
|
|
