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goddamnedtwisto posted:I think a *mild* bend could probably be accounted for by the auto-leveling technique most printers use but really, I'd make sure the bed was flat before even beginning to look at other stuff. I feel like it's flat, but then again I also feel like it's level, so  I've got problems with adhesion in specific sections of the bed but if it's off it's so close that I can't tell how to get it just right. I'm wanting to do some larger prints so I really need to get it fixed, I've just been using the parts of the bed that haven't had a problem after spending a few hours fruitlessly trying to level the bed.
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Nov 14, 2021 04:35
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I cannot get this Elegoo transparent resin to work at all Or at least without mixing pigments in Do I need to up the cure time? Down it? I’m using a known good ctb file that I use regularly for testing new resins, and I get the pad and nothing else wants to adhere I’ve used Voxelab transparent in the past with success, so I guess I’m just going to order more of that and save the Elegoo for tinting??
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Nov 14, 2021 07:14
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Sockser posted:I cannot get this Elegoo transparent resin to work at all This is elegoo resin in a mars 2, right? Did you try ~60s cure for the base layers and 6 second for regular layers? That’s what was printed on my bottle and it worked after the default settings caused failure on the test file (rook).
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Nov 14, 2021 07:25
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Mars Pro, set for 60/8 My mars 2 also hates it, though l. Think I had that cranked up to 7 or 8 as well
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Nov 14, 2021 07:45
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Thank you all for the 3d printer feedback. I decided to just go for the Elegoo Saturn. So right now I have the Saturn printer, 1000 grams of standard Elegoo Photopolymer Resin, and a UV curing station kit in my Amazon cart. I plan on getting nitrile gloves and isopropyl alcohol at the store here locally. The UV curing station kit has a resin strainer included. Other than looking into UV glasses, is there anything else I should be picking up before I get started?
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Nov 14, 2021 17:18
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Hekk posted:Thank you all for the 3d printer feedback. I decided to just go for the Elegoo Saturn. So right now I have the Saturn printer, 1000 grams of standard Elegoo Photopolymer Resin, and a UV curing station kit in my Amazon cart. I plan on getting nitrile gloves and isopropyl alcohol at the store here locally. The UV curing station kit has a resin strainer included. Other than looking into UV glasses, is there anything else I should be picking up before I get started? It sounds like you have what you need to get started. If it's miniatures you're printing then I would also suggest a UV flashlight. Those are invaluable for fixing small broken bits and putting minis on bases.
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Nov 14, 2021 17:25
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InternetJunky posted:UV glasses? That's a new one for me. What on earth are they for? Yeah I have no idea other than I saw them mentioned for making your own curing station. I have never messed around with UV lights and wasn't sure how dangerous they are to the unprotected eye.
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Nov 14, 2021 17:28
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Hekk posted:Yeah I have no idea other than I saw them mentioned for making your own curing station. I have never messed around with UV lights and wasn't sure how dangerous they are to the unprotected eye. I mean, you shouldn't be sticking your head in your curing station and staring at the lights, but the same wavelength is present in sunlight so not sure what to say. I think you can safely skip the glasses.
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Nov 14, 2021 17:49
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InternetJunky posted:There should be three files you downloaded. You just put those on the USB drive, insert the drive into the printer, and then "print" (as in, select the file on the printer and then press print) them on the Mars3. You want to do it in this order: .LCD file, then .RBF, then .TXT file. Good times! I am a giant man baby and after going to sleep and waking up again I was again competent to follow your directions and I am running the test print rook as we speak. Thank you for spelling it out for me, I get anxious around poorly translated instructions and second guess myself. I am using the Elegoo black water washable resin instead of the grey they gave me because I don't have a gallon of IPA lying around and I wanted to use my wash and cure machine. I will see how bad the test print fucks up and probably move on to learning how to fiddle with the exposure settings next. I downloaded the spreadsheet from Elegoo so at least I have a base line for all that Jazz. Thank you again for the hand holding and spoon feeding, I am an unbelievable dummy but if you ever need any advice about fixing your car I'm your Huckleberry Edit: Hekk I LOVE your "Uncle Billy's Atlanta BBQ" tag it's one of my favorites, I gotta get a John Brown one made up some day PleasantDirge fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Nov 14, 2021 |
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Nov 14, 2021 18:59
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Hekk posted:Yeah I have no idea other than I saw them mentioned for making your own curing station. I have never messed around with UV lights and wasn't sure how dangerous they are to the unprotected eye. The UV curing station (assuming it's a premanufactured one, like from Elegoo) should have a lid or door or some sort of cover, so you'd be ok without UV glasses.
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Nov 14, 2021 19:41
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I keep a set of UV sunglasses in my printer toolbox in the event i'm doing something dumb with UV light, but I've never actually had to use them.
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Nov 14, 2021 19:45
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PleasantDirge posted:Good times! I am a giant man baby and after going to sleep and waking up again I was again competent to follow your directions and I am running the test print rook as we speak. Thank you for spelling it out for me, I get anxious around poorly translated instructions and second guess myself. I am using the Elegoo black water washable resin instead of the grey they gave me because I don't have a gallon of IPA lying around and I wanted to use my wash and cure machine. I will see how bad the test print fucks up and probably move on to learning how to fiddle with the exposure settings next. I downloaded the spreadsheet from Elegoo so at least I have a base line for all that Jazz. Thank you again for the hand holding and spoon feeding, I am an unbelievable dummy but if you ever need any advice about fixing your car I'm your Huckleberry My understanding is that the wash and cure spinny boi is no good for water washable— gotta just hose those down and brush them? I guess?? (I have not used water washable resin)
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Nov 14, 2021 19:51
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Sydney Bottocks posted:The UV curing station (assuming it's a premanufactured one, like from Elegoo) should have a lid or door or some sort of cover, so you'd be ok without UV glasses. Ehh I cheaped out and got a lamp and a solar powered spinny table. I figure I can line a box I rig up with aluminum foil or reflective something and make it cure things. It was around 25 bucks compared to like 60 for the pre-built solutions. I won't stare at UV lights though.
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Nov 14, 2021 20:56
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Sockser posted:My understanding is that the wash and cure spinny boi is no good for water washable— gotta just hose those down and brush them? I guess?? I think that if I have to rinse/brush the parts anyways the wash and prob isn't very necessary, I will skip that part and just go straight to curing after I dry them off. Good call, I think I'm just cised to try all my new toys
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Nov 14, 2021 21:14
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It's kinda hilarious that the test print for the mega 8k is a single rook. Even the elegoo Mars printed 2 of em side by side. GIGANTIC BUILD PLATE, itty bitty test file 🤏. I honestly was expecting like a fuckoff giant hollow tesseract or something to showcase the size of the printer. Instead, single rook with some writing embossed on it. Re: all the safety stuff, yea the uv goggles are kinda overkill but honestly if wearing em makes you feel better, buy em. You won't really ever have your face directly in the uv light, but if you feel safer wearing em, awesome. Also, in the slicer you use, don't forget to make drain holes in your models if they aren't like, solid minis. Otherwise the water washable stuff sort of expands and cracks later. It's a point of contention with it mentioned a lot in the Facebook groups. Don't pour the water down the drain either, just pop it outside to evaporate. Still, with the regular resin, you need to make drain holes anyway, but I think once you clear coat it with some uv blocking spray in whatever finish you choose, you should be ok. Stupid_Sexy_Flander fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Nov 14, 2021 |
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Nov 14, 2021 21:40
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Sockser posted:My understanding is that the wash and cure spinny boi is no good for water washable— gotta just hose those down and brush them? I guess?? The “wash” part of wash and cure stations are just magnetically stirred buckets. They’re fine for water washable, or Simple Green, or any washing fluid really.
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Nov 14, 2021 22:08
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Hekk posted:Yeah I have no idea other than I saw them mentioned for making your own curing station. I have never messed around with UV lights and wasn't sure how dangerous they are to the unprotected eye. A lot of stuff blocks UV but I wouldn't worry too much since most curing stations are at the top end of UV-A (the ones I see online are around 405nm). There do exist LEDs that can do UV-C but they were like $5-15 for a single LED at the beginning of covid and everyone just uses fluorescent tubes in disinfecting lights which will burn your eyes like the incident with the lamps from the filming of Blade 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwsHRrDYu5o
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Nov 14, 2021 22:38
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Hekk posted:Ehh I cheaped out and got a lamp and a solar powered spinny table. I figure I can line a box I rig up with aluminum foil or reflective something and make it cure things. It was around 25 bucks compared to like 60 for the pre-built solutions. I won't stare at UV lights though. It's an extremely good idea to line it with something reflective both for efficiency reasons (why waste all those photons?) and also for safety reasons. Depending on the exact frequency you might not need to stare, or even look at, the light too long to do serious, lasting damage to your eyes. Someone else posted that it's a wavelength that's in sunlight but the problem is your retina doesn't detect UV light so the defence mechanisms that stop you going blind from looking at the sun don't kick in. It's not a *huge* danger, but it's definitely a present one, so why not spend 10 minutes with some tinfoil and tape to protect yourself?
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Nov 15, 2021 11:56
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Since filament drying comes up quite a bit, just a heads up that Sunlu is running a KS campaign for the second version of their dryer: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sunlu-filadryer-s2/sunlu-filadryer-s2-effective-support-3d-printer-creation The first one seemed to generally be fine. I'm only mentioning this one because it improves on a couple of issues with the original design and the early bird pricing makes this about as cost-effective as just buying and modifying a decent food dehydrator on your own.
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Nov 15, 2021 15:45
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Paradoxish posted:Since filament drying comes up quite a bit, just a heads up that Sunlu is running a KS campaign for the second version of their dryer: Does it have a continuous-running mode? I have an S1 that I like to use on PLA but if I'm printing longer than 24 hours for something and don't make it back around to turn it on again within an hour or so of it shutting off, I end up getting the same moisture/thermal problems because the dryer isn't perfectly-sealed.
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Nov 15, 2021 16:23
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Paradoxish posted:Since filament drying comes up quite a bit, just a heads up that Sunlu is running a KS campaign for the second version of their dryer: dang, that's pretty inexpensive
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Nov 15, 2021 16:37
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Does it have a continuous-running mode? I have an S1 that I like to use on PLA but if I'm printing longer than 24 hours for something and don't make it back around to turn it on again within an hour or so of it shutting off, I end up getting the same moisture/thermal problems because the dryer isn't perfectly-sealed. if your filament is picking up moisture THAT quickly, you've got other problems. A few hours to the air shouldn't affect PLA like that.
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Nov 15, 2021 16:49
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Deviant posted:if your filament is picking up moisture THAT quickly, you've got other problems. A few hours to the air shouldn't affect PLA like that. I doubt moisture has anything to do with it, and it just prints better if the filament is warmed above ambient before it encounters the heat in the hotend.
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Nov 15, 2021 17:07
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Deviant posted:if your filament is picking up moisture THAT quickly, you've got other problems. A few hours to the air shouldn't affect PLA like that. I keep my filament in those vacuum bags and I forgot to seal one of them up and the reel of Sunlu PLA+ in it still printed perfectly a year later. What kind of swamps are you goons living... oh wait I see it now, as you were.
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Nov 15, 2021 17:44
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Pledged because I was considering a dryer and this would be as good as any, I already started work on a container to use as a dry box
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Nov 15, 2021 17:44
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Why do product promotion videos use such aggressively bad music?
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Nov 15, 2021 17:56
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I also pledged. I've heard some snaps and pops from wet filament on Hatchbox PLA, but not on the Inland I've ordered. Definitely a factory issue, as I don't pick up a lot of humidity from the <30% humidity ambient air. One of the perks of living in the desert, of which there are no downsides 
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Nov 15, 2021 18:02
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I've been mixing a lot of colors and pigments of resin lately, and usually have a fair bit left after prints. What's the best way to store this? Like, what vessels can I get?
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Nov 15, 2021 19:22
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I doubt moisture has anything to do with it, and it just prints better if the filament is warmed above ambient before it encounters the heat in the hotend. Amusingly, I ran into a PLA that did pick up moisture that fast. The Glass Clear Blue Pla from Microcenter will become foamy, and nasty in 18ish hours of exposure. I got a refund for it, becuase as far as i'm concerned, that ain't PLA.
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Nov 15, 2021 20:17
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Sockser posted:I've been mixing a lot of colors and pigments of resin lately, and usually have a fair bit left after prints. What's the best way to store this? Like, what vessels can I get? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/70860-REG/Delta_11120_Datatainer_Storage_Bottle_with.html
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Nov 15, 2021 20:34
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Sockser posted:I've been mixing a lot of colors and pigments of resin lately, and usually have a fair bit left after prints. What's the best way to store this? Like, what vessels can I get? saving your old resin bottles is the cheapest and easiest, just give em a good rinse with alcohol, maybe scour the inside out with steel bearings in the alcohol to get any pesky sediment/pigment off the sides and bottom, and you're good to go. that said i almost never need a 500/1000ml bottle for resin-mixing, so it's a big waste of space. if you have a makerspace nearby you might be able to take their empty bottles off their hands, I figure they're a pain to dispose of properly so they might welcome you handling that for 'em. up here in Canada dispensaries often sell weed in little opaque jars with decent gaskets/seals built right in, some are great and some don't seal well enough for me to trust em, but that's the best source of ~100-250ml bottles I've found that are a good fit for storing small amounts of resin. course, I also get those for free. i very much like those photochemical bottles ImplicitAssembler posted, except 32oz is also too big for any blending i've done. 250ml feels like the sweet spot; i'd definitely pay a couple of bucks for a black opaque bottle with a good tight-sealing lid and a writeable space to label the contents.
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Nov 15, 2021 20:51
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Maybe: https://www.mcmaster.com/liquid-containers/
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Nov 15, 2021 20:55
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i have a resin bottle i saved labeled "BASTARD RESIN" that all the dregs go into. either it prints or it doesnt, and i dont complain when it doesnt print
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Nov 15, 2021 21:55
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Deviant posted:i have a resin bottle i saved labeled "BASTARD RESIN" that all the dregs go into. either it prints or it doesnt, and i dont complain when it doesnt print
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Nov 16, 2021 00:17
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Kinda curious to see these bottles of lowly resin
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Nov 16, 2021 00:18
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Unperson_47 posted:Kinda curious to see these bottles of lowly resin I leave mine on the side of the road.
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Nov 16, 2021 02:27
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Acid Reflux posted:I have a similar one that, while not actually labeled, is usually referred to as the Piss Bottle. Deviant posted:i have a resin bottle i saved labeled "BASTARD RESIN" that all the dregs go into. either it prints or it doesnt, and i dont complain when it doesnt print i call mine either "swamp water" or "the king's cup"
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Nov 16, 2021 04:45
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Gst3d's silver (aka spaceship colored) pla is surprisingly nice looking as compared to the couple of flat colors I've run through before This is a promising development.
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Nov 16, 2021 13:34
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The Mars 3 has been cranking out minis all weekend! I made a sweet filigree gengar and a boobmonster for the wife. I ran through almost an entire 1/2 liter bottle of resin already between those two models and all the weird tentacles I printed for the wife's bookstagram. I'm really glad I started with 3L of resin. One more question: I hallowed out the hangar model (chitubox says it reduced the price of resin by 75% after hollowing) but I didn't add a drain hole! Is this a toxic time bomb of some kind of is he safe to put on a shelf? Also I heard someone say (?) They were buying IPA for $50 ish for 4-5 gallons anyone got a link?
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Nov 16, 2021 13:59
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You didn't add a drain hole yet. Do you have a drill?
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Nov 16, 2021 14:04
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