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If you seal the model with a uv protection clear coat it shouldn't cause an issue but yea, that being said it's also easier and quicker to make a small hole. Also, the gigantic feeder syringes have already come in handy as the second print on my enormous, girthy, veiny, not at all over compensating printer hosed up and I had to remove about 2kgs of resin from the vat. Got most of it out and squirted back into the bottle, then when I cleaned the vat, I poured through a paint funnel to funnel out the solid bits. Worked like a charm and now 18 hours and some change from now I should have a new bigass print. Stupid_Sexy_Flander fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Nov 16, 2021 |
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Nov 16, 2021 14:29
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I'm imagining the mess some of these larger resin printers will make if a print detaches from the build plate near the end of a print and splashes back down into the vat and yikes.
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Nov 16, 2021 14:32
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A hollowed model without drain holes is a ticking time bomb. The uncured resin inside will eat through and leak absolutely everywhere. And you will be surprised by how much resin is actually trapped inside.quote:I'm imagining the mess some of these larger resin printers will make if a print detaches from the build plate near the end of a print and splashes back down into the vat and yikes. InternetJunky fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Nov 16, 2021 |
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Nov 16, 2021 14:47
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Tip when your drilling/making drain holes, make two as far apart as possible. You will struggle to get resin to drain from a single hole.
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Nov 16, 2021 15:07
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Yeah, when I first got my Mars 2 last year I printed a couple hollow minis without drain holes before I figured out what I was doing. They exploded a few months later.
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Nov 16, 2021 15:08
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Toebone posted:Yeah, when I first got my Mars 2 last year I printed a couple hollow minis without drain holes before I figured out what I was doing. They exploded a few months later. Excellent! The model has space on both feet for a hole that I can drill. Is there anything else to do after draining it and rinsing it out as much as I can besides throw it back in the curing machine again? Also my water washable black resin is curing with a white film in some places, am I missing a step somewhere? PleasantDirge fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Nov 16, 2021 |
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Nov 16, 2021 15:53
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PleasantDirge posted:Excellent! The model has space on both feet for a hole that I can drill. Is there anything else to do after draining it and rinsing it out as much as I can besides throw it back in the curing machine again? As long as you can get some IPA in there and clean out the resin you should be ok. A white film means you're not cleaning the prints good enough. I give my prints a water bath after their final IPA bath because when the IPA dries it can leave resin like that behind. On a different topic, my Prusa has finally shipped. Shipping, customs, and duties came out to more than $250 for it. 
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Nov 16, 2021 16:13
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InternetJunky posted:As long as you can get some IPA in there and clean out the resin you should be ok. Are you one of the XL early buyers or something?
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Nov 16, 2021 16:23
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Are you one of the XL early buyers or something? No, I just bought a regular Prusa i3.
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Nov 16, 2021 16:47
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If you were waiting on a wham bam plate the early black Friday sale on them comes to $39.75 for the two plate kit, only $1.75 more than the single plate for the Mars 3. The sale code is DW25% at checkout and only works on the two plate sets.
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Nov 16, 2021 16:55
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Toebone posted:Yeah, when I first got my Mars 2 last year I printed a couple hollow minis without drain holes before I figured out what I was doing. They exploded a few months later. So, how come this happens and why is it more likely to happen with hollow minis? I generally find that there's no more than a few drops of resin trapped inside my hollow prints, but maybe that's because I only hollow things that are fairly boxy so they drain fairly well as they print, even without accounting for the drain holes? Is this caused by uncured resin somehow melting through the outer walls of the print? Or is there a process happening with the uncured resin inside the model that's causing the trapped air to heat, expand, and break the outer walls apart? It seems like either case would be a risk with solid miniatures too since they've gotta have some uncured resin trapped in tiny pockets, not to mention that the entire center of the model will be partially cured at best. Kind of want to try leaving a hollow miniature without drain holes in a container now just to see what happens.
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Nov 16, 2021 17:14
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Paradoxish posted:So, how come this happens and why is it more likely to happen with hollow minis? I generally find that there's no more than a few drops of resin trapped inside my hollow prints, but maybe that's because I only hollow things that are fairly boxy so they drain fairly well as they print, even without accounting for the drain holes? I believe it's from resin fumes accumulating inside the hollow and building pressure until something gives. Worth noting that both my pops happened during the summer when the room was pretty warm. I didn't see it happen, but one of the minis blew strong enough to scatter bits across the room.
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Nov 16, 2021 17:23
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Paradoxish posted:So, how come this happens and why is it more likely to happen with hollow minis? I generally find that there's no more than a few drops of resin trapped inside my hollow prints, but maybe that's because I only hollow things that are fairly boxy so they drain fairly well as they print, even without accounting for the drain holes? Get a 3d model of a claymore and shell it without drain holes, then timelapse the failure and post it on whatever video site lets you monetize views and see if you can get  out of it.EDIT: Here's one https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/claymore-mine-0ab9698d824b4c56a2728e5edea90aa4
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Nov 16, 2021 17:36
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Before I went on vacation, klipper running at 200mm/s for parts with my original bowden retraction settings just ate he filament in the tube, and i have since lowered to .5, and eventually turned it off in cura as pressure advance is all tuned and working great. I still had to remove the manual turning extractor knob as that was rattling like a champ during runs. And now, after everything was fixed and I was printing replacement ducts to work with my 5015 fans, i left it overnight and awoke to loss of adhesion on my plate and all my string mess melting around the hot end. So honored to have my first one :/ I am taking the time now to disassemble the hotend and replace the heatbreak with the slice engineering one, and replace the nozzle with the 'good one' from microswiss. And the latter seem to be having a sale so I am replacing my extruder with a dual drive model whish should be a good upgrade. The trade off between 'just printing' and tuning and fixing from upgrades to push the limit is really frustrating.
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Nov 16, 2021 18:41
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From what I've read, it seems that smaller minis (like your typical human or Space Marine sized ones) aren't a danger for exploding if printed solid, because even if there was a pocket of resin trapped somewhere inside it (which there shouldn't be, unless your printer's screen or UV light has some weird issue, in which case it's going to be pretty visible in the final print anyway), it wouldn't be a big issue because the figure is small enough that it wouldn't have enough trapped resin to de-gas and build up enough pressure to literally explode (it could crack and leak resin, though, but again that's not too likely). It's also not worth hollowing your minis out, because the amount of resin you'd be saving is literally worth just pennies when it comes to a typical 28mm human-sized miniature, so it's really not worth the effort. The danger is in bigger models being hollowed out and not having drain holes or not having enough drain holes to get all the resin out. That's where you're more likely to see cracks or worse.
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Nov 16, 2021 19:09
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Yeah, I should be clear that my hollowed out minis that popped were large monsters; you shouldn't be hollowing little 28mm guys.
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Nov 16, 2021 19:28
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I think i know the answer to this, but double checking. I was taking apart the hotblock and got the heater off, but messed up the thermistor wiring, no big deal since i have extra. I also realized i ordered a new hotblock from microswiss as well as the nozzle, so im just going to replace the whole thing. Kicker is that I have a heatbreak from slice, and when i attempt to use it, it seems the nozzle and heatbreak both cant screw in all the way. Im assuming this is going to be fine, so long as the nozzle is all the way in(plus an extra bit when hot) and the heatbreak can be thread or so out. Or will I burn down the house and cause the land to be unproductive for generations ?
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Nov 16, 2021 23:21
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Sydney Bottocks posted:It's also not worth hollowing your minis out, because the amount of resin you'd be saving is literally worth just pennies when it comes to a typical 28mm human-sized miniature, so it's really not worth the effort. It depends a lot on what you're printing. The vast majority of miniatures that I've printed hollow are tiny 6-8mm vehicles, which are essentially blocks of resin with some detail on the outside, which makes them more or less a perfect use case for hollowing. Just tossing a random one into Chitubox right now, the supported and hollowed model uses less than half the resin of an unsupported, solid model. It's a reasonably significant difference when you're printing a lot of them. Same goes for any kind of solid terrain piece. It'd be crazy wasteful not to print them hollow, especially when they typically have flat, hidden surfaces that are perfect for tossing in some drain holes.
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Nov 16, 2021 23:33
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Paradoxish posted:It depends a lot on what you're printing. The vast majority of miniatures that I've printed hollow are tiny 6-8mm vehicles, which are essentially blocks of resin with some detail on the outside, which makes them more or less a perfect use case for hollowing. Just tossing a random one into Chitubox right now, the supported and hollowed model uses less than half the resin of an unsupported, solid model. It's a reasonably significant difference when you're printing a lot of them. Yeah, I mean I've printed some of my 15mm WW2 tanks hollow, as you say they're big blocks of resin that are perfect for that particular case use. I'm talking more your average human sized and shaped 28mm figure. The only savings in resin you'd make would be in the torso (generally the thickest part, unless you're printing off a cheesecake tiddy miniature with a ridiculous hourglass figure or something  ) at that point, unless you made the "walls" insanely thin enough to be able to hollow out the arms and legs as well (which still wouldn't save that much resin, and would make the figure very prone to breakage to boot). But vehicles, terrain pieces, busts/statuettes? Hell yeah, hollow those out where possible. Just make sure you have good drainage holes, and that you get all the resin cleaned out of it, and you're good to go.
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Nov 16, 2021 23:41
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Roundboy posted:I think i know the answer to this, but double checking. I was taking apart the hotblock and got the heater off, but messed up the thermistor wiring, no big deal since i have extra. Sounds like you're OK with it. The heat break and the nozzle have to make full contact with each other inside the heater block, so you run the break down about as far as it can go without actually getting the narrower part down inside the block, and then thread the nozzle up to meet it. The shoulder of the nozzle shouldn't hit the heater block, you should still be able to see at least one or two threads on it after it's tightened down. If it looks like threading the heat break down that far might be a bit too far, then you can absolutely run it back out a turn or two, as long as the nozzle doesn't bottom out against the block. 
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Nov 17, 2021 00:03
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You just have to be so careful with your drain holes on small models. I've found anything smaller than 3mm really doesn't allow the resin to drain out.
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Nov 17, 2021 00:03
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InternetJunky posted:You just have to be so careful with your drain holes on small models. I've found anything smaller than 3mm really doesn't allow the resin to drain out. Yeah my model is basicly a small round Xmas ornament sized dude that I made the min thickness when hollowing him out. Def going to be a lil' poke-grenade if I don't drill/drain him. I'm about to go print some bootleg death korps on bikes after my 6 orks in a rhino costume finishes up. Models I would never spend real $$$ on are my favorite thing to print so far I hate to say it bc I'm being forced to use it but chitu pro is p solid and has only crashed on me once or twice.
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Nov 17, 2021 01:10
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Bucnasti posted:Tip when your drilling/making drain holes, make two as far apart as possible. You will struggle to get resin to drain from a single hole. InternetJunky posted:You just have to be so careful with your drain holes on small models. I've found anything smaller than 3mm really doesn't allow the resin to drain out. Yeah, my bare minimum for any hollowed model is two drain holes as large as you can make them, or at least big enough to accept the tip of a large (i use 100ml) syringe, and at opposite ends of the cavity when possible. if you're going to hollow out resin models you need to take pains to facilitate flushing-out and post-curing of the inside surface to the greatest degree possible, because anything you miss will degrade and destroy the part from the inside-out fairly quickly. I've basically never gotten good results with a single hole and no forced irrigation, not on a weeks-to-months timescale. You need two large holes to break the vacuum and overcome capillary forces to allow resin to drain, you need to extract any potential internal supports through those holes, and you need to force your cleaning solvent to flow through the entire cavity under pressure to guarantee effective washing and resin removal. Everything gets generously flushed with alcohol via syringe after going through the Wash n Cure, usually once from each direction. After washing I also flush water through the cavity in the same way to carry any resin-bearing alcohol residue away so it doesn't dry onto the part and result in a lovely surface cure. all this = avoid hollowing out parts where possible, I've never found it worth doing for small models and even for very large ones you generally want to find ways to avoid having to hollow it out (i.e. printing two half-shells instead). once you hollow a model out the lifespan of the part drops significantly even if you're very thorough with post-processing. keep things solid wherever you can afford it, p much. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Nov 17, 2021 |
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Nov 17, 2021 01:21
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MMU took a poo poo today after a bunch of perfect prints this morning. Refused to so much as load a single filament on its own. I could of course disconnect the Bowden and feed in my own filament and get it to go, but the MMU was not having it, like the MMU and the printer weren’t talking to each other right. 50 reboots, adjusting every screw and tensioner, trying different filaments, forcing filament through the extruded manually, nothing Six cold pulls and now it’s working again mysteriously Sure wish it had some sort of status display other than a handful of blinking LEDs
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Nov 17, 2021 01:26
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The MMU is a neat hack but it's clearly not the right way to do multi-material printing. A toolchanger like the E3D system is the only really good approach. I very much hope that the Prusa XL has that system or an equivalent built in.
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Nov 17, 2021 01:38
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in other news i'm designing and printing a mechanical computer. or part of one, anyways, specifically a functioning ball-and-disc integrator. one of these guys:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZI-PydfsQs think of it kind of like an infinitiely-variable transmission that's designed to perform a mathematical operation instead of transmit power. heres what i've modelled so far:  the disc is driven via step-down pulleys by an electric motor in the base, while the carriage is moved along its track by a rack-and-pinion system with a handcrank (teeth not modelled here). the balls are 8mm ball bearings, and the carriage has 2x4 sets of teeny tiny bearings to constrain the balls in the x-y plane while letting them roll freely. the roller that contacts the top ball provides the output via its cw/ccw/null rotation, depending on where the carriage is positioned wrt the turntable. a cross-section shows it well:  i don't have an interesting application or output indicator yet; simplest thing would be two mechanical rotation counters, one on the turntable shaft and the other on the roller shaft, both being reset/zeroed with a single button. something that shows change over time like a graph output would be ideal, like a paper scroll driven by the same motor that turns the turntable (which represents time as a variable), but i'm getting ahead of myself here anyways- it's starting to take shape. just a wee lil guy. printed the carriage in Siraya Tech Build, which i'm getting a handle on now that i've zeroed in on the right exposure and print settings, it's nice tough stuff that survived being wedged apart to install the bearings. the fit-up is a little sloppy and the balls arent perfectly constrained, I think i'm gonna replace the sides with M3 screw+nut sets, so I can fine-tune the carriage side lengths and nudge the bearings around to take the slop out of everything  
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Nov 17, 2021 |
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Nov 17, 2021 01:43
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Cool as gently caress dude. I haven't clicked this thread in a year and your post was so goddamn good that now I'm clicking the backpages.
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Nov 17, 2021 03:20
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Ambrose Burnside posted:all this = avoid hollowing out parts where possible, I've never found it worth doing for small models and even for very large ones you generally want to find ways to avoid having to hollow it out (i.e. printing two half-shells instead). once you hollow a model out the lifespan of the part drops significantly even if you're very thorough with post-processing. keep things solid wherever you can afford it, p much. This is why I was wondering what's actually happening on the inside of a hollow model that's causing them to burst, crack, or otherwise degrade. It seems like just the presence of drain holes (assuming you aren't gluing the model down a surface that seals those holes later) would prevent any kind of problems relating to gassing or pressure, even if you failed to clean/cure the interior. If ventilated models can still degrade, then it's some kind of interaction between the cured and uncured resin on the inside of the model that's causing the issue?
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Nov 17, 2021 03:28
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Sagebrush posted:The MMU is a neat hack but it's clearly not the right way to do multi-material printing. A toolchanger like the E3D system is the only really good approach. I very much hope that the Prusa XL has that system or an equivalent built in. The biggest shame is that it doesn’t seem like it would take much software work to make it like 80% better Literally: Displaying errors on the LCD Better tip cutter (mine is disabled because it sucks) A better purge mechanism than the tower (I bought one of those blob dripper things but have not set up the custom Goode for it) A better way to pause prints and diagnose the MMU when it inevitably fucks up As it is, it’s kind of brilliant. It’s magic when it works. Hypnotizing, like my first day of 3d printing. And then it just goes to poo poo and ruins a 20 hour print and there’s nothing you can do to stop it.
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Nov 17, 2021 03:56
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Paradoxish posted:it's some kind of interaction between the cured and uncured resin on the inside of the model that's causing the issue?
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Nov 17, 2021 04:09
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Paradoxish posted:This is why I was wondering what's actually happening on the inside of a hollow model that's causing them to burst, crack, or otherwise degrade. The presence of uncured resin in/on a cured part causes some sort of progressive failure over time, it's like a rot. It's definitely not just a matter of pressure, it's chemical. UV-cured acrylate resins are broadly reactive and unstable as far as bulk materials go and continually degrade on longer timescales unless hermetically-isolated from UV, humidity, oxygen etc, my Reckon is that the presence of the super-super-reactive photoinitiatiors in uncured resin could have some sort of catalytic effect on otherwise-cured resins whose photoinitiators are all reacted and inert.
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Nov 17, 2021 04:21
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Mofabio posted:Cool as gently caress dude. I haven't clicked this thread in a year and your post was so goddamn good that now I'm clicking the backpages. thanks much. i'm actually working on a few different mechanical computers atm, the ball-and-disc is the only one i'm physically prototyping at this point. here's a much weirder, less conventional device I'm designing based on a research paper published in the January 1901 issue of The American Mathematical Monthly https://www.jstor.org/stable/2970154 - a *hydraulic* square root extractor, based on Archimedean water displacement combined with a very particularly-shaped paraboloid float + scale, which extracts square roots (or cube roots, or etc- just change the float's profile) from an input *mass*.  the system consists of a watertight vessel with a known inner volume + with a lid fitted with several ports and bushings; a hook gauge that can be finely-adjusted using a thumbscrew; and the parabola float, whose " function f(x) is selected such that the weight W of the displaced water equals to nth power of a given number: y = x2 * sq rt(πW/2) ", with a shaft and a scale plate on its end. you fill the vessel partway with water so the mandrel floats freely while sliding in the bearing in the lid, measure the 'zero level' with the screw-adjusted hook gauge, then add X grams to the scale; the water level change is measured by the gauge and translated into weight by a scale on the gauge/vessel, representing the extracted square root of the input why haven't i printed any of this yet? because it turns out it looks like a buttplug floating in a canister of barbasol. does not impress like a ball-disc integrator does
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Nov 17, 2021 04:33
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holy gently caress ive been working for how long without knowing about paint on supports?Ambrose Burnside posted:the system consists of a watertight vessel with a known inner volume + with a lid fitted with several ports and bushings; a hook gauge that can be finely-adjusted using a thumbscrew; and the parabola float, whose " function f(x) is selected such that the weight W of the displaced water equals to nth power of a given number: y = x2 * sq rt(πW/2) ", with a shaft and a scale plate on its end. you fill the vessel partway with water so the mandrel floats freely while sliding in the bearing in the lid, measure the 'zero level' with the screw-adjusted hook gauge, then add X grams to the scale; the water level change is measured by the gauge and translated into weight by a scale on the gauge/vessel, representing the extracted square root of the input 
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Nov 17, 2021 05:58
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Aggh QUOTE EDIT in tyool 2021
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Nov 17, 2021 05:58
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Anyone wanna toss out a guess as to why hollowing in prusaslicer is something that is horrendously cpu and ram hogging, but hollowing in chitubox is basically just click a button and boom, it's done? I'm trying to hollow and set up drainage holes in a stl file I have in prusaslicer but every single time I go to hollow it, it locks up the pc and stops responding. Is there a switch or something I need to click to make it function better?
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Nov 17, 2021 07:42
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Mofabio posted:Cool as gently caress dude. I haven't clicked this thread in a year and your post was so goddamn good that now I'm clicking the backpages. You chose poorly.
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Nov 17, 2021 11:59
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Anyone wanna toss out a guess as to why hollowing in prusaslicer is something that is horrendously cpu and ram hogging, but hollowing in chitubox is basically just click a button and boom, it's done? How long did you give it? Prusaslicer does that to me slicing big models, if I just wait it out it'll finish eventually.
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Nov 17, 2021 14:54
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Gonna give it another whirl later on. Honestly I want giving it too long, I mean in chitubox it's like, instant regardless of model size. Guess I assumed the same would happen with these guys as well. Anyone know how to make it save the holes it cuts out?
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Nov 17, 2021 17:00
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Gonna give it another whirl later on. Honestly I want giving it too long, I mean in chitubox it's like, instant regardless of model size. Guess I assumed the same would happen with these guys as well. File -> Export Plate as STL
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Nov 17, 2021 17:16
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Hey alright Finally got this model to successfully print in clear and then filled it with translucent red, and it’s been in my cure station for like an hour Will it explode? Who knows! 
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Nov 17, 2021 17:46
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