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w00tmonger posted:Setting up my new resin printer cabinet at the new place and I'm trying to decide what my best option is for these. What about putting the shelves on rails so that you can pull them forward drawer style when you need to open them?
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Nov 21, 2021 20:18
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Why do you need covers on the printers if they're in the cabinet?
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Nov 21, 2021 20:22
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Make sure to wear eye protection if you do that though, and it shouldn't need to be said, but DO NOT do that with an open flame nearby. OR do, and take video. Vorenus posted:Hopefully this is the place for this, I PMed one of the printing goons on the spreadsheet and haven't heard back. Just haven't gotten there yet. You won't like the number in the end. Also.. it's hard to properly judge without the full STL. InternetJunky posted:Why do you need covers on the printers if they're in the cabinet? Keeps fumes in, and keeps UV out.
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Nov 21, 2021 20:52
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Nerobro posted:Keeps fumes in, and keeps UV out.
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Nov 21, 2021 21:33
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what are you going to do with the lid, have it take up space elsewhere instead of on the pritner where it fits perfectly?
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Nov 21, 2021 21:40
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BMan posted:what are you going to do with the lid, have it take up space elsewhere instead of on the pritner where it fits perfectly? My suggestion is to simply leave the lids off. What you want to do with them after is kind of irrelevant honestly. I don't use lids for my own printers unless they are going to sit for a while without printing.
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Nov 21, 2021 21:49
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InternetJunky posted:You do realise each machine has a fan at the back that is literally blowing the fumes from printing outside the printer, right? And presumably there's no UV light to worry about inside the cabinet unless that's being rolled out to the front porch or something. You do realize you're being a dick, right? Not only a dick, but a wrong dick. There's a fan, yes, but that's contained in the base for cooling the screen and light. At least on the printers I've used, there's no vent from the base into the printing chamber. There's also lots of random UV sources in rooms, you might not be aware of. The lid is still useful. Now please, go stuff it.
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Nov 21, 2021 22:06
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Nerobro posted:You do realize you're being a dick, right? Not only a dick, but a wrong dick. You're reading some weird tone in my reply that isn't there dude.
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Nov 21, 2021 22:15
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My printer has been down for a few days and I can't even feel bad. My last print wrapped itself around the hotend and broke my shroud, yet another thermistor, and I can't find my original shroud to put it back together just yet Debating making a monstrosity from cardstock to direct the cooling and printing one quickly, or just taking the time to find my original parts and doing the same. I just can't put the effort into it just yet after more downtime then up. I need a bit of a break Makes me look hard at that prusa as something I don't need to update all the time.
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Nov 21, 2021 22:20
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InternetJunky posted:You're reading some weird tone in my reply that isn't there dude. To much internet for me today.
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Nov 21, 2021 22:26
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Are there any resources out there for aftermarket fan designs for the Ender 3? I swear I have an extra itsy bitsy fan around here somewhere and it would be nice to print a shroud that cools the heatsink and the part on separate fans so I can fine-tune high temperature filaments. I'm sure there's a lot out there but fluid dynamics is a specialized field and a lot of stuff for printers is just made because it looks cool.
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Nov 21, 2021 22:36
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InternetJunky posted:Except the whole reason we're having this discussion is because w00tmonger's shelves prohibit the use of the lid without either making changes to the cabinet or the lids themselves. Sorry I've been running cable all day and forgot I posted this morning. Planning on running with lids off. But want to avoid cross contamination from UV between the units. I know they can be a bit leaky around the ports etc but maybe I'm going overboard. It's in the basement so not sure if extent UV WI be an issue
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Nov 21, 2021 22:46
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are there any resources out there for aftermarket fan designs for the Ender 3? I swear I have an extra itsy bitsy fan around here somewhere and it would be nice to print a shroud that cools the heatsink and the part on separate fans so I can fine-tune high temperature filaments. I'm sure there's a lot out there but fluid dynamics is a specialized field and a lot of stuff for printers is just made because it looks cool. There are a bunch, but they all seem to be set for a 40 or 50 mm fan at what, 15 or 25 mm thick. I was using the petsfang one, who seems to have actually published fluid charts and results, but I did try the herome one but didn't install since my large assortment of metric screws did not have one long enough. I am trying to currently use the design for a single 5015 fan Good luck with what you choose, since all designs seem to badly suffer from poor file management and instructions as they make and update designs, and even worse when you add on bltouch or other parts. Look towards remixes as well
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Nov 21, 2021 23:05
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To be clear when I say itsy bitsy I mean compared to the 120mm fans in my computer. I don't remember the size, I just remember seeing it lying in one of my electronic junk boxes.
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Nov 21, 2021 23:44
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If I'm suspicious that the stock NEMA17 steppers in my Tronxy might be bad, is there a reliable US based (preferably East Coast) supplier that sells replacements that don't suck?
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Nov 21, 2021 23:59
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Roundboy posted:There are a bunch, but they all seem to be set for a 40 or 50 mm fan at what, 15 or 25 mm thick. Hangtight’s designs are pretty self-contained - just pick the one with the correct hotend/config for what you want. (For example, the fully stock hotend/extruder is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179892.)
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Nov 22, 2021 00:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are there any resources out there for aftermarket fan designs for the Ender 3? I swear I have an extra itsy bitsy fan around here somewhere and it would be nice to print a shroud that cools the heatsink and the part on separate fans so I can fine-tune high temperature filaments. I'm sure there's a lot out there but fluid dynamics is a specialized field and a lot of stuff for printers is just made because it looks cool. Ender 3 has separate hot end and part cooling fans already. The hot end heatsink fan is a standard 4010 and the part cooling is a less common 40mm blower. On the ender 3 v2 they're 24v which is less common. A satsana fan duct is a very easy upgrade to the stock shroud, I recently put one on my voxelab aquila (ender 3 v2 clone).
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Nov 22, 2021 00:19
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Oh, thanks, I'll look into that then. I must have misunderstood the CNCKitchen video where he was saying that the stock fan design cools both the part and the heatsink together. I took that to mean there was only one fan, I guess not. I guess I should probably be printing out of ABS or some other high-temp filament given the amount of hot air that will be flowing through these and the proximity to the hotend?
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Nov 22, 2021 03:37
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My parts are pla and held up fine. Generally you have two parts, one being the base that everything boots too, and since it's after the heatbreak it should not see any significant heat. The other is generally the cooling shroud, and should be far enough away to not have an issue. I never print anything hotter then petg, so maybe if you are printing very hot temps and have the part cooling off there might be a softening issue? I took that if the shroud was getting to 180-190 or more then something was going wrong. If you can print nicely in abs or other hot material go right ahead, no reason you should not, but no reason you have to.
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Nov 22, 2021 05:01
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22 Eargesplitten posted:
ABS is grandpa material. PETG or ASA all the way
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Nov 22, 2021 05:11
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Nerobro posted:
My Mars 2 Pro had a "filtration system" that was a fan that sucked air out of the chamber, through a lovely carbon trap, and then out into the room. Not sure the Mars 2 or Saturn has that but I'm pretty suspect of any elegoo printer that claims to have filtration built in as a feature.
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Nov 22, 2021 05:24
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I guess I should probably be printing out of ABS or some other high-temp filament given the amount of hot air that will be flowing through these and the proximity to the hotend? Satsana in particular is fine as PLA, the ducts aren't close enough to the hot end to warp, and the heat block should have a silicone sock
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Nov 22, 2021 05:33
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Nerobro posted:You do realize you're being a dick, right? Not only a dick, but a wrong dick. There are some SLA printers with vat fan vents. The one I had for a weekend before realizing that I didn’t want to mess with it had a charcoal filter on it to help mitigate the fumes. I don’t know if it did much or not, because it didn’t help a ton.
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Nov 22, 2021 15:52
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is there recommended pla to start with? getting a prusa mini as my first printer and if not will probably just get something recommended from this list: https://m.all3dp.com/1/best-pla-filament/
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Nov 22, 2021 15:54
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Sockser posted:ABS is grandpa material. lol sorry you can't print ABS
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Nov 22, 2021 16:01
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First print just rolled off my Prusa. 55 hour torture test and it's flawless. I'm scared to print anything else now because it can only go downhill from here. 
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Nov 22, 2021 16:16
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Wow!
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Nov 22, 2021 16:37
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InternetJunky posted:First print just rolled off my Prusa. 55 hour torture test and it's flawless. I'm scared to print anything else now because it can only go downhill from here. Got a link to that? I'm curious to see if it will fit on my Mini and how it'll turn out.
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Nov 22, 2021 17:31
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Looks like there's some uphill to be had still, some melty overhangs and minor stringing in a few places! But that's just me nitpicking for the sake of nitpicking  Got both of my vorons printing side by side now, this 2.4 has a few things to iron out still but it's at the point where I can hit print and it prints things, which is the big hurdle.  Still needs some tuning, skirts need to be printed, and I'm probably going to add a klicky probe for automatic z offset calculations (along with some titanium extrusion backers and a thermistor inside of the frame so that I can minimize how much heat soaking I need to do) but it's printing real nice with basically no work besides the initial setup. Bonus shot with the Prusa it's replacing for scale:  fake edit: looks like my backers and other mods are showing up today too
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Nov 22, 2021 17:32
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Is there a good diy solution for filtering particulates/Vocs from an enclosure? Should I just be getting some generic HEPA filter and box fan to stick inside?
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Nov 22, 2021 17:51
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Got a link to that? I'm curious to see if it will fit on my Mini and how it'll turn out.
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Nov 22, 2021 17:55
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w00tmonger posted:Is there a good diy solution for filtering particulates/Vocs from an enclosure? https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro is what I’m using on my printers, but it’s just for VOCs.
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Nov 22, 2021 17:57
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X-posting from the 3d printing for tabletop gaming thread: I have an odd problem that I hope goons will be able to help solve. I started printing off some AT terrain and... well... the first building printed fine, the second came out as this:  (The first print is on the right, the failed print is on the left)     Its very fragile and "crumbly" on the failed layers. After this print failed, I tried reprinting the first building, it started to print fine, I went to bed, woke up and found the bowden tube had come out of the coupler, so while it failed, I didn't lose any filament. Would the bowden tube coming loose have caused this failure, or should I look at something else as well? Also, obligatory cat picture: 
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Nov 22, 2021 18:28
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So, I've managed to reduce the stringing on my print by slowing down, which is fine, but even with prusa's defaults I'm getting this fairly bad seam blobbing: Thoughts? I've got the benchy sliced with seam 'rear' so i can easily see if it's acting up or not. This was with a roll of dry prusament at 215*C, and my filament feeds from a drybox up above the printer: 
Deviant fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Nov 22, 2021 |
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Nov 22, 2021 18:46
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If - with the same settings - I'm starting to get more notable layer lines than I was a few months ago, would I be right in thinking belt tension is the first thing I should be looking at? It's not *bad*, but I've just printed a temperature tower to try and dial in a new filament and it feels appreciably rougher and just looks a bit scruffier than before (and doing it with the PLA+ I'm used to shows the same sort of thing), and I'm thinking if the belts are a bit loose then that'll lead to the print head being not quite as precise. Also a few places seem to suggest belts should be tight enough to give an actual note when plucked - is that about right? I'd have thought that was actually a little over-tight but happy to hear any tips.
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Nov 22, 2021 19:13
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I've started playing around with PETG and I've pretty much got it down except for one issue, and that's layer separation on my first layer. The print sticks just fine and otherwise looks great but why is it that after I remove it from the print bed I have giant strings on the bottom layer that never seems to melt fully into the lines around it? I've tried upping the temp, lowering the temp, playing with z offset, and nothing seems to help. Every other layer looks great and the texture on the bottom layer looks right, but there are always these loose strings that I have to clip off and that ultimately leaves the print looking beveled. The first layer also looks great as it's printing, but after it's removed it's a bit of a mess. This is with a mostly stock Ender 3 V2, and it seems to work best with the least amount of this when I have the hot end at 230C.
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Nov 22, 2021 19:38
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Oh, thanks, I'll look into that then. I must have misunderstood the CNCKitchen video where he was saying that the stock fan design cools both the part and the heatsink together. I took that to mean there was only one fan, I guess not. Could have either meant that the stock design spills heatsink cooling air over the part (quite possible) or that the electronics for the part cooling fan and the *electronics* cooling fan (the one that cools the printer mainboard in the enclosure) are tied together so that the electronics cooling fan only runs when the part cooling fan is running, which is definitely an issue on older Ender-3s and I don't know if Creality ever fixed it.
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Nov 22, 2021 19:51
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Jadius posted:I've started playing around with PETG and I've pretty much got it down except for one issue, and that's layer separation on my first layer. The print sticks just fine and otherwise looks great but why is it that after I remove it from the print bed I have giant strings on the bottom layer that never seems to melt fully into the lines around it? I've tried upping the temp, lowering the temp, playing with z offset, and nothing seems to help. Every other layer looks great and the texture on the bottom layer looks right, but there are always these loose strings that I have to clip off and that ultimately leaves the print looking beveled. The first layer also looks great as it's printing, but after it's removed it's a bit of a mess. Cooling. Turn off the cooling fan (set it to zero) for the initial layers. There is a debate on using a cooling fan at all for the rest of it, or at the very least having the max be 20% and you ramp up to that. It has to be hot to stick together, and if you let it cool too much, it will melt and flow, but the layers will be very brittle and cause a weak area. Advanced class would be to have it on when bridging, but cura at least has experimental options on special bridging modes to crank up the fan when needed. I typically print PETG higher and keep the bed high as well, and keep cooling off initially and slowly ramp it up. I also have some minor stringing which i think is unavoidable unless i really dial in my retraction or play with coasting, or even try it more with klipper
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Nov 22, 2021 19:56
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Dr. Despair posted:My Mars 2 Pro had a "filtration system" that was a fan that sucked air out of the chamber, through a lovely carbon trap, and then out into the room. Not sure the Mars 2 or Saturn has that but I'm pretty suspect of any elegoo printer that claims to have filtration built in as a feature. Yeah, I assume those built-in “filters” are ineffective at best, if not actively distributing VOCs more than they would otherwise. A single pass through a lovely charcoal filter before discharging into the environment does not inspire confidence, especially as nobody’s regularly changing those filters after buying it. An interesting and low-effort printer mod that i’ve considered exploring is a simple duct mounted to the back of the printer that feeds the exhausted filter air back into the enclosure via a port on the stock printer hood; continuously refiltering the enclosure air ought to be much more effective, and would remove the need for effective single-pass VOC scrubbing. No need to engineer a secondary standalone scrubbing system, just make the stock system less lovely. There might be issues with “stale” air (high humidity/temperature, maybe) that the single pass ventilation is also addressing, I know a hermetically-sealed CNC mill cabinet isn’t good because coolant use rapidly saturates the air with moisture which encourages corrosion + the motors are designed for passive convection cooling and can overheat without some parts being ‘open to the air’. I doubt that’s the case for a printer stepper running at a modest duty cycle and with low RPM/torque but idk Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Nov 22, 2021 |
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Nov 22, 2021 20:01
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Randalor posted:X-posting from the 3d printing for tabletop gaming thread: I'd think it was underextrusion caused by the tube coming out. I'd say it's a partial clog if the second print is also crumbly, but if the second print is fine, it was probably the tube.
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Nov 22, 2021 20:07
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