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My go-to for printers is printer on a flat tile slab, and the slab onto one of those foam floor tiles cut to size (those puzzle-fitting ones that go on the floor of a gym or play area or whatever.)
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Nov 30, 2021 19:08
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| # ? May 30, 2024 01:13 |
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How long before the audiophile people that sell giant magic slabs of granite and "damping springs", which definitely aren't kitchen counter offcuts and valve springs from a Mk1 Escort, at 10,000% markup discover the 3D printer market? In fact I'm going to make a start now - send me £1,000 and I'll send you a bag of shiny pebbles which, if taped to your extruder drive exactly right, will vastly improve the quantum energy of your prints.
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Nov 30, 2021 19:16
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the difference is you can actually hear if the 3d printer got quieter
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Nov 30, 2021 19:30
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Honestly with the 3v2 I’m using, it’s almost all fan noise. Might think about swapping out the fans to quieter ones but it’s not too bad.
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Nov 30, 2021 19:33
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insta posted:Adding rigidity to the foam (as in squash balls) will transfer more energy to the table. No, the squash balls work extremely well. I have my printer on a DIY table/cabinet that initially acted like a big amplifier, but that's all gone now.
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Nov 30, 2021 19:57
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Im sitting on new ender fans now, but I need to pick up a new PSU fan as I grabbed the wrong size (and i need to double check voltage) I just don't feel like splicing wires at the moment, and i need to switch the mobo cooling fan from the part cooling line to the hotend cooling line, since i think that was a huge mistake when they made it. Basically if you never use part cooling (petg, abs, etc) then your motherboard fan will never come on, and that, coupled with a hot bed, is disaster.
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Nov 30, 2021 19:58
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ImplicitAssembler posted:No, the squash balls work extremely well. I have my printer on a DIY table/cabinet that initially acted like a big amplifier, but that's all gone now. but compared to furniture foam?
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Nov 30, 2021 20:13
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Squishy interfaces depend a lot on the vibrations involved. If something vibrates a lot, too stiff of an interface won't help enough, and too soft might actually make it worse. Camera mounts on RC aircraft know this struggle well. You want something squishy enough to eat the vibrations, not hard enough to transfer them elsewhere, and not so soft that it just keeps flopping around without actually arresting anything. As pointed out, with 3d printers it's a lot easier to cowboy it because the machines aren't exactly vibrating like crazy, and you can just use your (significant other's) ears to judge  If it works, it works!
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Nov 30, 2021 20:13
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One thing that I largely overlooked but got a cura plugin for was aligning the part on the bed to minimize x/y travel and limit it to one axis. Ex a part with a long straight side should align with x or y only vs sitting diagonally on the bed (when it can fit) Ideally I put it aligned with 'X' since i would rather move the extruder head a lot vs the whole bed (Y) back and forth which has the added bonus of stress testing my supports and adhesion choices.
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Nov 30, 2021 20:29
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The Eyes Have It posted:My go-to for printers is printer on a flat tile slab, and the slab onto one of those foam floor tiles cut to size (those puzzle-fitting ones that go on the floor of a gym or play area or whatever.) so I just threw together a closet workstation setup for my filament printers. is there a low weight alternative to the concrete slab for decoupling?? Ideally I'd go that way but the shelf I put in, albeit framed great, is not attached to studs and I'm not sure I want to add 3 more blocks of concrete to a shelf I'm currently comfortable with load wise.
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Nov 30, 2021 21:11
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w00tmonger posted:so I just threw together a closet workstation setup for my filament printers. is there a low weight alternative to the concrete slab for decoupling?? Get you some of this, cut to size, put it on the shelf and put the printer on top of it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Project...g-PP1/203553730
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Nov 30, 2021 21:14
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insta posted:but compared to furniture foam? I don't know. But squash balls are easy to get and certainly looks a lot neater than a big slab of foam.
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Nov 30, 2021 21:27
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Get you some of this, cut to size, put it on the shelf and put the printer on top of it. This is basically styrofoam, and I’m sure it’s got some flame resistant coating/etc, I’d put something like a tile or paver on top of it personally.
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Nov 30, 2021 21:34
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JFC I know you FDM guys think I'm mildly crazy bc chemicals but I'm much more comfortable with hazmat stuff than I ever will be all the noodling required for some of your printers. Any one of you that can make those things go is at least a tiny bit of some kind of genius. Side note: Do I really NEED an filament printer to print the non barrel/slide portion of my pistol(s?) or is my Mars 3 made of fairy dust and can do anything my black heart desires?
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Nov 30, 2021 21:45
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Lawlicaust posted:Good suggestions. I was just using the out of the box bed cover so I'll try the glass plate and then shim where necessary. This thing has just been a pain in the rear end already since it arrived. Broken SD slot lock, possibly dented bed, and metal for the base is ever so slightly warped on the front left so it doesn't sit flat and needs a shim. Why are you messing with this and not getting a return label? Do people just accept a new printer in this kind of condition as normal?
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Nov 30, 2021 21:53
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PleasantDirge posted:Side note: Do I really NEED an filament printer to print the non barrel/slide portion of my pistol(s?) or is my Mars 3 made of fairy dust and can do anything my black heart desires? Resin prints are very bad at dimensional accuracy if you have tight tolerances on things
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Nov 30, 2021 21:54
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Javid posted:Why are you messing with this and not getting a return label? Do people just accept a new printer in this kind of condition as normal? I mean, if they didn't, companies outside of Prusa and a few others wouldn't survive.
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Nov 30, 2021 22:11
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I can shim my bed to save 2-3x the printer cost, or buy.a pei sheet for $8
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Nov 30, 2021 22:43
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Roundboy posted:I can shim my bed to save 2-3x the printer cost, or buy.a pei sheet for $8 You still need to shim with a PEI sheet. It's the aluminum plate that sucks on the Ender and all cheap printers.
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Nov 30, 2021 22:58
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I guess I am the lucky 1%,or the magnetic sheet on top of the aluminum is leveling something because according to my level map I am even all around
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Nov 30, 2021 23:00
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Javid posted:Why are you messing with this and not getting a return label? Do people just accept a new printer in this kind of condition as normal? They are already sending me a replacement mobo and some parts for the other issues. I'd prefer replacement parts that I can assemble around the other parts that I know work rather than roll the dice with a brand new system that will broke in a fun new way. I should have just bought a Prusa and waited for it but BF deal fomo got the better of me. PleasantDirge posted:JFC I know you FDM guys think I'm mildly crazy bc chemicals but I'm much more comfortable with hazmat stuff than I ever will be all the noodling required for some of your printers. Any one of you that can make those things go is at least a tiny bit of some kind of genius. Yeah, my experience with Resin has been so much better in every way. I'd rather deal with resin management on my Saturn than deal with the fiddliness of this loving Ender.
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Nov 30, 2021 23:07
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Roundboy posted:I guess I am the lucky 1%,or the magnetic sheet on top of the aluminum is leveling something because according to my level map I am even all around I think it's a bit overblown how bad they are stock. I just slapped the magnetic sheet on mine and the center is spot on with the corners.
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Nov 30, 2021 23:14
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AlexDeGruven posted:I think it's a bit overblown how bad they are stock. I just slapped the magnetic sheet on mine and the center is spot on with the corners. It's hit or miss. Some people get perfectly flat beds right out of the gate, when mine is out enough that a large print will show signs of too high on the edges and too low in the middle. Edit: to be clear, it's printable, but not if you need a good bottom layer surface.
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Nov 30, 2021 23:36
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My original Ender 3 has a bed that's ever so slightly off, so that's the machine that's got the BLTouch. I probably wouldn't have noticed without the bed level visualization in Octoprint, but there's definitely a slightly perceptible difference in first layer quality between prints with and without the mesh now that I know it's there. I've thought about shimming but I'm way too lazy.
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Dec 1, 2021 01:29
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I mean I broke my ender in fantastic other ways and replace parts piecemeal but the bed was not an issue I mean I keep watching these voron build videos I am totally experienced with all aspects of it I should just spend my time on that and revert this ender back to stock. I still need to revert to stock to print parts to make it a better stock printer, I'm just finding better things to do
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Dec 1, 2021 01:34
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BMan posted:the difference is you can actually hear if the 3d printer got quieter Yeah, and you can also hear when microphonic feedback and other phenomena that are actually stopped by isolating your turntable are stopped, but that doesn't stop people then saying that you have to use marble instead of granite or multi-rate springs or other voodoo to "improve the sound stage". My all time favourite is the black box - literally just a big black box that you leave in the middle of the room - that is supposed to interact on a quantum level with the sound to improve it.
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Dec 1, 2021 01:35
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https://imgur.com/a/CBi9IB9 My Prusa i3 MK3S just started doing this and I'm not sure what's wrong. Is this an adhesion issue? edit: decreased the first layer height from 0.4 to 0.2 and it seemed to fix the issue Snostorm fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Dec 1, 2021 |
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Dec 1, 2021 05:52
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Snostorm posted:https://imgur.com/a/CBi9IB9 Yah, one nozzle width high for your first layer is probably a bit high. 75% is about as high as you really want to go with PLA.
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Dec 1, 2021 06:44
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Snostorm posted:https://imgur.com/a/CBi9IB9 Never have layer heights that are more than 75% of nozzle diameter unless you're using a volcano or other high-flow nozzle that is more than 1mm in diameter and don't give a poo poo about how the walls look.
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Dec 1, 2021 11:38
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One of the main E3D guys passed away  https://e3d-online.com/blogs/news/sanjaymortimer
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Dec 1, 2021 15:47
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mewse posted:One of the main E3D guys passed away Morbid curiosity has me wondering what the cause was, he was only 32.
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Dec 1, 2021 15:53
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Morbid curiosity has me wondering what the cause was, he was only 32. There's the big obvious one that is usually safe to assume when cause of death isn't mentioned, but I do hope that's not what happened, he was always so kind when doing interviews for youtube
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Dec 1, 2021 16:27
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Plus, we are kinda in the middle of an ongoing pandemic. Might just be a case of the family not wanting to lob all their personal business out there.
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Dec 1, 2021 16:47
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"He died doing what he loved--and was tragically pulled into an experimental extrusion system due to an improper purge command that caught his shirt sleeve"
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Dec 1, 2021 17:11
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Watching a voron build with Thomas Sanladerer has me really, REALLY inspired. I see some of the issues he has with cheap kits, and the voron site itself puts out a decent packing list of the screws and things you need. I don't mind sourcing things as needed to slowly gather it all together, but is there a good resource to help me determine what is low vs high quality parts and where its needed? I get I can aliexpress the 2 kg of screws needed, but will i die in a fire if I get the aluminum extruded frames from them as well? The formbot kit seemed kinda 'meh', and i haven't even begun to decide what hotend,boards, etc to even use, so slow gathering of parts is not a problem. The voron sourcing page also had nice links, but only lists 200m extrusions when i need 350+ (might as well go big) . Is it even worth trying to source of of the little bits like bearings , etc rather then just get a good bundle? I am gathering all my links and doing my reading, but some knowledge from people that had trouble with 'x' or wish they did 'y' is nice
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Dec 1, 2021 21:45
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I only know about thingiverse, no idea about all the paid sites. Does anyone know of any chrono trigger models besides the 1 free robo one?
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Dec 1, 2021 21:51
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Roundboy posted:Watching a voron build with Thomas Sanladerer has me really, REALLY inspired. I see some of the issues he has with cheap kits, and the voron site itself puts out a decent packing list of the screws and things you need. I don't mind sourcing things as needed to slowly gather it all together, but is there a good resource to help me determine what is low vs high quality parts and where its needed? I get I can aliexpress the 2 kg of screws needed, but will i die in a fire if I get the aluminum extruded frames from them as well? I built a prusa mk2 clone using Tom's "dolly" build as a guide and it was a big pain in the rear end getting all the small parts from different aliexpress vendors. I think you probably want to start with a kit just so you at least have the frame and fasteners (mostly) covered. Trianglelabs on aliexpress seems to be highly regarded for cheap+good hot end/extruder parts. mewse fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Dec 1, 2021 |
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Dec 1, 2021 21:55
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Ghostnuke posted:I only know about thingiverse, no idea about all the paid sites. Does anyone know of any chrono trigger models besides the 1 free robo one? You need to get creative with "knock-off names" for things like that to find the models you want. Kind of like how things like the "Fillenium Malcon" is how you get a certain star wars ship model at decent model size/resolution (or at least it used to be), or other stuff from the Mandalorian.
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Dec 1, 2021 22:01
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mewse posted:There's the big obvious one that is usually safe to assume when cause of death isn't mentioned, but I do hope that's not what happened, he was always so kind when doing interviews for youtube There are two I'm aware of that fall under this category - suicide and overdose. There could be more, but from personal experience with friends I've lost over the years, those are the two that typically aren't mentioned.
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Dec 1, 2021 22:01
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| # ? May 30, 2024 01:13 |
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Don't underestimate autoerotic asphyxiation.
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Dec 1, 2021 22:02
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