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alnilam posted:Also I'm not seeing any for less than 300... are you some kind of chimney parts deals wizard?? Nah, I'm just used to comparing prices. Here's the cheapest I found: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088NNQAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_8PH7DFXMYXZZVYWK3B44?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I would imagine you just drop the chain down the flue.
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Dec 1, 2021 23:14
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So I’ve got a two handle tub faucet (Delta) and it was leaking. Narrowed it down to hot water, but I replaced the cartridges and now it’s worse. The cartridges are correct for delta, they aren’t brass though. So here’s where I hosed up. I went out to turn the water back on the second time I re-seated the cartridges (the first time it made the leak slightly worse), came back in, and realized I hadn’t tightened the nut on the hot water one because water was spraying everywhere and flooding the bathroom. I got it all cleaned up but since the pressure blew out the valve cartridge and the seat and spring, I put the cartridge back in and replaced the seat and spring and…with the hot water faucet completely turned off, the water is now still flowing at about medium pressure. So now we either run up our bill, or we don’t have hot water. Not sure this is an emergency plumber situation, but I am hoping there’s something I can do to fix it so I can take a goddamn shower tonight. I do not have a valve in the bathroom for the tub, the sinks have their own valves and so does the toilet but the shower and tub do not have supply valves in the bathroom (that I’ve ever seen). Do I just turn on the hot water to shower and then turn it back off, then get a plumber tomorrow?
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Dec 2, 2021 01:08
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Sounds like you busted the cartridge and need to replace it. This is the kind of reason why it's worth buying spares when you're doing plumbing work.
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Dec 2, 2021 02:26
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Sounds like you busted the cartridge and need to replace it. This is the kind of reason why it's worth buying spares when you're doing plumbing work. I totally did buy spares, but also had the loving seat and spring inverted. I used a brand new cartridge just in case. I had a plumber friend look at a pic of the installation and he said it looked right so it went with it and no more leak. I was expecting to see the cartridge stuck in the ceiling or something. What a nightmare
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Dec 2, 2021 06:18
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life is killing me posted:What a nightmare Pretty sure it's a recurring thought among anyone who has opened up a wal melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Dec 2, 2021 20:18
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The handheld sprayer for my kitchen faucet recently broke. It has a plastic female threaded end that screws on to a braided water line. The plastic threaded bit broke, and now the handle pulls off sometimes when using it. The faucet is some Amazon/Wayfair brand called Daweier, and I can't seem to find a new spray nozzle anywhere. What are my options here?
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Dec 3, 2021 06:09
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Xenix posted:The handheld sprayer for my kitchen faucet recently broke. It has a plastic female threaded end that screws on to a braided water line. The plastic threaded bit broke, and now the handle pulls off sometimes when using it. The faucet is some Amazon/Wayfair brand called Daweier, and I can't seem to find a new spray nozzle anywhere. What are my options here? http://daweierusa.com/ Is this them? Give them a call and see if they'll sell it to you directly.
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Dec 3, 2021 06:18
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That would be a neat trick, but unfortunately it happens well before hot water reaches the cartridge. That is, I get lousy water pressure from the water in the hot water pipe, even if that water has been sitting in the pipe for hours and is therefore cold.
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Dec 3, 2021 07:33
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GWBBQ posted:There's a ring and retainer on the cartridge that limits how far the handle can turn. Should be a 15min job Are you talking about the grey toothed thing here? Because I'm pretty sure this is set up to allow the maximum amount of turn already. 
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Dec 3, 2021 16:34
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One of my pipes sprung a leak this morning in my basement. I heard it burst and got to it quickly-ish, but there was still about water about 1-1.5 inches high in some spots. I got rid of all the standing water in ~1 hour, but now I'm wondering what to do beyond fans and dehumidifiers. Luckily my floor is epoxy coated concrete, so it was easy to wet vac, but my main concern is getting the water out of the walls/wood that it touched. I've googled around but I don't trust any of what I'm reading. Is there a thread-approved to-do list or reference for this situation? One list online told me to scrub the floor with bleach solution which seems like a good idea, but might be overkill for my case.
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Dec 3, 2021 18:06
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Bone Crimes posted:One of my pipes sprung a leak this morning in my basement. I heard it burst and got to it quickly-ish, but there was still about water about 1-1.5 inches high in some spots. I got rid of all the standing water in ~1 hour, but now I'm wondering what to do beyond fans and dehumidifiers. Luckily my floor is epoxy coated concrete, so it was easy to wet vac, but my main concern is getting the water out of the walls/wood that it touched. If you started drying it out within minutes of it happening then you're going to be fine. Run those fans and dehumidifiers and cycle in outside air if it would help. You could further increase circulation by running your forced air fan assuming you have one and a vent in the basement.
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Dec 3, 2021 18:09
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Yeah running every fan you can find will do a lot, I've had what seemed like really a bad water spill turn out fine several times, as long as it was found within a day. Good luck though!
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Dec 3, 2021 18:16
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H110Hawk posted:If you started drying it out within minutes of it happening then you're going to be fine. Run those fans and dehumidifiers and cycle in outside air if it would help. You could further increase circulation by running your forced air fan assuming you have one and a vent in the basement. Cool, I'm doing all that. I'm thanking my lucky stars that I was here and heard it before it got too high, and that it was clean water. the sad part was when I learned that the drains in the basement floor are extremely slow, so I had to wet vac all the water and dump in a sink.
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Dec 3, 2021 18:19
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Bone Crimes posted:Cool, I'm doing all that. I'm thanking my lucky stars that I was here and heard it before it got too high, and that it was clean water. the sad part was when I learned that the drains in the basement floor are extremely slow, so I had to wet vac all the water and dump in a sink. So now you know that maybe you should get your drains snaked just in case 
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Dec 3, 2021 18:39
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Bone Crimes posted:One of my pipes sprung a leak this morning in my basement. I heard it burst and got to it quickly-ish, but there was still about water about 1-1.5 inches high in some spots. I got rid of all the standing water in ~1 hour, but now I'm wondering what to do beyond fans and dehumidifiers. Luckily my floor is epoxy coated concrete, so it was easy to wet vac, but my main concern is getting the water out of the walls/wood that it touched. Call your insurance agent. PainterOfCrap will hopefully be along soon too...
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Dec 3, 2021 18:41
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My toddler's room has a funny little closet raised 2.5 ft off the ground (if you're wondering why, this is at the edge of the 1-and-a-halfth floor, and the closet is raised to the level of the 2nd floor). She finds it really funny to go inside. She's getting old enough to play semi on her own, so we're thinking of building a little ramp with climbing holds for her to get up there, and make it into a little fort. Anyway I know how to build the ramp; I'm looking for ideas on how to attach it though, in a way that is both safe/sturdy, and removable. Going for an angle of like 60 degrees (so 30deg angle from the wall). It doesn't have to be mega easy to remove, it would just be nice to be possible to remove and then put it back, i.e. without unscrewing screws that go right into wood. So, bolts and nuts, shafts and cotter pins, something like that (the mount on the wall does not need to be cleanly removable, just the ramp itself). My challenges are: 1. How to attach. I could see either some very sturdy hinges, or some kind of shaft hinge with a cotter pin. Or maybe some 30deg angle brackets with bolts and nuts attaching the ramp, to make it removeable. However I'd prefer to avoid a rigid solution like angle brackets, as then my measurements on the ramp itself would have to be absolutely perfect and even then the bottom might end up slightly floating above the floor. Hinges/pins are a bit more forgiving and won't over-constrain the system. 2. Where to attach. Plaster walls so I can't really use a studfinder. Is it reasonable to assume there are studs right around, and a horizontal stud below, the doorway though? Alternately I could drill into the uh, sill? The horizontal face of the piece at the bottom of the door. Obviously then the door couldn't close but I'm willing to sacrifice the door itself if necessary. This is less of a "how do i fix" and more of an invitation for ideas, any creative ideas?  e: diagram might help 
alnilam fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Dec 3, 2021 |
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Dec 3, 2021 19:28
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wesleywillis posted:So now you know that maybe you should get your drains snaked just in case I know right?! I'm getting that done as soon as this is over. I did have the larger line checked recently and it was good, but not this particular branch. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Call your insurance agent. I didn't even think of that. What would I say to them? Would they send someone out? Pay if it's bad?
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Dec 3, 2021 19:29
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Bone Crimes posted:One of my pipes sprung a leak this morning in my basement. I heard it burst and got to it quickly-ish, but there was still about water about 1-1.5 inches high in some spots. I got rid of all the standing water in ~1 hour, but now I'm wondering what to do beyond fans and dehumidifiers. Luckily my floor is epoxy coated concrete, so it was easy to wet vac, but my main concern is getting the water out of the walls/wood that it touched. Keep in mind though, water wicks upwards, and latex paint acts as a pretty decent vapor barrier, so drying wet drywall from the room side of the wall can be tricky. If you're concerned enough, you can pull the baseboard and punch 1 inch holes every 16 inches to get airflow in the cavities, then reinstall the baseboard after a few days.
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Dec 3, 2021 19:35
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Bone Crimes posted:I know right?! I'm getting that done as soon as this is over. I did have the larger line checked recently and it was good, but not this particular branch. I'm sure others will know better, but my recent experience with homeowners insurance was: the agent should be able to talk you through the process - ask if the burst pipe repair itself is covered, if the hypothetical water damage would be covered, but don't ask them to actually file a claim unless it's going to be above your deductible (which you won't know until you get an estimate, so hold off on that). In my case my deductible was roughly equal to the repair bill so I didn't file a claim, because 2 claims in 2 years would raise my rate a little. Not by much, but why bother if the deductible is the same as the repair bill anyway? You don't even know if there's any real water damage yet
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Dec 3, 2021 19:35
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Bone Crimes posted:
The right thing to do is probably cut off the bottom couple feet of drywall that got wet and replace it-drywall loves to grow mold if it gets wet and it's hard to dry out. You may be be able to dry yours out and not have a problem, but if you do have a problem it might well be worth making a claim depending on your deductible etc. I am far from expert on all this (there are posters itt who are), but I would definitely make your insurance co. aware that there has been a problem. Your insurance agent has dealt with exactly this situation hundreds of times before and will have a better idea of what you should/should not do and who you should call next.
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Dec 3, 2021 19:41
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I wouldn't open a claim or even call them if you're under a grand or two in damages. If you're never ripping out drywall you'll never know.
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Dec 3, 2021 19:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Just make them aware that A Thing Happened. Then if you have a bunch of mold in a month and need to make a claim, it's not out of the blue and connects to an incident, not your neglect or a long term moisture problem or something. Ok, I'll look into it, thanks! To give more context to the issues: The problem was the water filter, in the middle there with the blue screen on top. It was shooting water out of somewhere on top - I didn't check where, I just ran to the water shut off. We had it serviced, and the media replaced recently, so I have a suspicion they didn't re-install it right. So I'll be calling them about that. The advantage here is that It has a cut out valve, so we have water for the house and don't need a plumber to fix anything to live in the house. The leak started in the laundry room and water made it out to the rec room, but didn't get to the downstairs bedroom (thank goodness, as that has carpet. There were some rugs in the rec room, and we're just gonna ditch them. Here's one of my concerns, - we have a nice big built-in that got wet and I need to get the water out from under. You can also see the flooring type.  Here's the other side of the room, and the water didn't reach too high, and it didn't reach all of the baseboards around the room. So I might take Slugworth's suggestion and pull some of the baseboards. Isn't there a test tool for moisture? Maybe i'll get one of those too, does anyone know if they work well? 
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Dec 3, 2021 20:00
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TrueChaos posted:http://daweierusa.com/ Is this them? Give them a call and see if they'll sell it to you directly. Don't know why I didn't think of that. When I saw they only seemed to be sold through Wayfair and Amazon, I assumed they were some cheap crap from overseas. Looks like if I can find the receipt in the huge briefcase of documents the previous owner left me, they'll replace it for free.
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Dec 3, 2021 20:00
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Bone Crimes posted:Ok, I'll look into it, thanks!
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Dec 3, 2021 20:38
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Slugworth posted:How much of that built in is accessible from that utility closet thing? If you can dry from behind and the front, you may not be in bad shape. In the top picture - I can get behind it, but it goes down to the floor. Here's the back side.  I vacced multiple times till no water came from under it, and gonna put some big air on it. Maybe I could pull the 2x6 and the 2x4 and see where that gets me.
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Dec 3, 2021 21:10
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Well, I got a moisture tester, and while some of the drywall is still dry, in some places I'm getting the max moisture (35% or greater) reading on the tester. I guess this means I need to get some remediation? :/
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Dec 3, 2021 22:25
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Bone Crimes posted:Well, I got a moisture tester, and while some of the drywall is still dry, in some places I'm getting the max moisture (35% or greater) reading on the tester. I guess this means I need to get some remediation? :/ I definitely don't see enough fans blasting everything in your pictures. Maybe they're out of frame. You want a couple of good airflow fans running so the air is moving past the damp walls and baseboards. I see one behind the shop vac maybe blowing out? I'd have a couple in the room passing the air along the walls towards the exit. Inexpensive box fans should do, or even some smaller ones you can keep running. I have a couple of mid sized vornados I run for a week or more after any flooding and keep an eye on the hygrometers I have back there. With those and a dehumidifier the moisture levels will come down but it can be slow. The wood and walls may have soaked some up but if you get the air moving by them it'll dry and with a little luck it won't wreck them. I suspect with the short amount of contact they had it will be fine if they don't look all bloated up already. It tends to be standing water and/or high water that really soaks in and destroys the drywall and wood.
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Dec 3, 2021 23:21
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Are you talking about the grey toothed thing here? Because I'm pretty sure this is set up to allow the maximum amount of turn already.
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Dec 4, 2021 00:25
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GWBBQ posted:yeah, that's it. you could try just removing it, but be aware it's a scald hazard. Hm, removing it might be a bit much, but I could probably shave it down a bit. The first thing to try though would be to see if I actually get better pressure with it off. It might be that the hot water inlet is unobstructed, but the cartridge is introducing turbulence or drag or something. If that's the case, then there'd be no point in modifying this part. Thanks for the suggestion, in any case!
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Dec 4, 2021 00:50
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Bone Crimes posted:Well, I got a moisture tester, and while some of the drywall is still dry, in some places I'm getting the max moisture (35% or greater) reading on the tester. I guess this means I need to get some remediation? :/ As the one goon mentioned, it does't look like you have much in the way of fans etc, though they might have just not been in the pics you posted. If you don't have fans, you can check at places that rent construction equipment, probably lowes, home depot etc.. Don't know where you are, (country, province/state) but some construction rental places are open for a half day Saturday and of course Lowes-Depot is open 7 days a week. Example: Home Depot rents fans, dehumidifiers etc.. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/tool-and-vehicle-rental/other.html wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Dec 4, 2021 |
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Dec 4, 2021 00:50
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Bone Crimes posted:I know right?! I'm getting that done as soon as this is over. I did have the larger line checked recently and it was good, but not this particular branch. You jumped on this right away. Most of my insureds tend to leave it running and then go do things like go grocery shopping or maybe calling 911. Or have no idea where their main shutoff is, so there's a good couple feet in the basement pool room/home movie theater/ webcasting studio / wine cellar by the time our phone rings. If you have already removed the standing water and you are at the air-drying part, then you have a better handle on it than anyone your insurer will send out. e: saw last post. The only obvious potential damage I can see would be to your painted baseboards & possibly some drywall wherever and if water was able to touch it (in a basement, the drywall should be installed at least an inch above the slab for just this reason). I wouldn't touch any of it unless there is some obvious damage that you can't live with. Otherwise... Go rent a large-grain dehumidifier and no more than three fans, with one of them blowing into that nice-looking cabinet you built. Set the other two up to stir the air (too many fans will get the air too disturbed and the dehumidifier will take longer to suck it all through) The dehu should have a humidistat in it to tell you what the ambient humidity is. Run all four for a couple days solid or until it reaches ambient humidity. In the alternative, set up a couple retail dehumidifiers and a couple box fans. Get some other fan to blow into the cabinet. Leave that running for a few days. If you spray with bleach, it should be no stronger than 10:1 with water. You shouldn't really smell it. Go around & cropdust after everything's dry. spray Lysol works too. Good job by you. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Dec 4, 2021 |
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Dec 4, 2021 04:38
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Would love to get folks thoughts on insulating around a direct-vent gas fireplace exhaust. The manual is silent on the topic, at least with respect to non-combustibles. I've read what seem like strong opinions on if to do it, and with what.  The existing pink stuff was just temporary.
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Dec 4, 2021 17:47
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PainterofCrap posted:You jumped on this right away. Most of my insureds tend to leave it running and then go do things like go grocery shopping or maybe calling 911. Or have no idea where their main shutoff is, so there's a good couple feet in the basement pool room/home movie theater/ webcasting studio / wine cellar by the time our phone rings. Cool. Thanks. I did talk to my insurance company yesterday, and it did seem that as I was past the main 'crisis' phase, it was a little more ambiguous about next steps. I did call the plumber and they came and looked at the broken filter, at it is 99% likely that it was not a 'worn out' issue but a failed grommet or crack in the tank - they will know more next week after pulling it apart and checking if the grommet was part of the service they did in August. This was requested by the insurance company was part of some question about if they would cover the cost to fix/replace the filter, as if the failure was due to the end of the service life, they would not cover, but it was not that (freak accident or something else) they would. I'm not too concerned about that right now though, as we can fully bypass the filter to have water for the house, and I'm not sure how much I would trust a replacement now. Insurance also recommended I get someone from a flood restoration company (they didn't have a list of preferred companies) to do an evaluation (they would pay for the evaluation), and that to get them to document all the moisture levels etc. and to send to them prior to any work. They recommended I find one locally that was well-reviewed. I called the best-recommended group, and they said they would get back to me in 24hours, so sometime today. I did buy a moisture meter yesterday and went around to all the walls and wood work. It seems that some walls are totally fine (i.e. dry), and others are at the highest levels on the meter. I guess some of the walls were well-sealed, and some got exposed and maybe wicked the moisture in? On some walls, it seemed like the water got pulled in at one point, as I could see a clear differentiation of where the moisture started and ended. I concentrated the airflow on the 'bad' walls' last night. I just went around this morning, and while most of the 'bad' walls are still at 35% (the max on the meter) some are dropping to the next lower level or even mid-meter. The wood seems to be fully dry, or drying quickly. The 2x4 on the floor, which was the worst was at the max yesterday and is now at 20%. The built in cabinet, seems fully dry, but my concern is underneath.  On advice of the thread, I rented 2 'industrial' fans last night, which seem to be working pretty well. They are $20/day each so I might just get box fans today, if folks here think they are roughly equivalent.   I think my next move will be to get more dehumidifiers to really get the moisture level lower. I think I'll go to the tool rental place and see about that today. We also have some loaners from friends coming today. My main concern is mold, and the disruption/pain in the butt-ness of getting the drywall ripped and replaced if that's needed. I don't care too much about the cost of it, but the planning and disruption. I'll likely be on the hook for it anyways as my deductible is $5K, and according to the insurance guy, that buys a lot of drywalling.
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Dec 4, 2021 19:02
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I did some more poking at my shower with the bad hot water pressure today. I tried removing the restrictor, and while that did let me push the handle far enough over to get really hot water, it didn't improve the pressure any. I also tried a brand-new cartridge, with the same results. It seems to me that the problem must lie with the design of the cartridge itself...except, if it's such a fundamental issue, then how was I able to get one shower with really good pressure out of it? It would help if I understood the mechanism of action. I think I do, but I'd like to run it past you all. Here's what the cartridge plugs into (for lack of a better term, I'm calling this the "plumbing"):  Top-left is hot, top-right is cold (both have a rubber washer on them, with a little spring inside it), and presumably bottom is where the mixed water goes to (and thence to the shower head). The cartridge looks like this:  The holes in the metal plate are clearly intended to permit water out of the hot/cold inlets. There's no corresponding hole for the output hole for the plumbing, which makes sense, because the entire plate rotates. If I had to guess, the metal plate on the cartridge butts up against the rubber washers on the inlets, sealing them. The output of the plumbing has no such washer, so that would leave a ~1mm gap (number made up, I did not measure it) between the metal plate and the brass surface of the plumbing. So when a hole in the plate is over one of the inlets, water is allowed out of that inlet, and then it uses that ~1mm gap to make it to the output. But then why does the cartridge have a big hollow plastic area behind the holes? I'm clearly still missing something. This design also seems like it introduces a lot of turbulence, which can't be good for water pressure. One thing I'm wondering is if I could get better flow by widening that ~1mm gap, using longer washers. I have no idea where I'd get those, or how to install those pieces. If I had to guess, you stick the washer in the inlet hole, then screw up the spring to compress it, stick it in the hole, and let it expand? But I don't really want to fiddle with that without fully understanding it, lest I leave myself without a shower until I can call a plumber in. The new cartridge I put in did come with spare washers and springs, but I left the original ones in.
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Dec 4, 2021 19:13
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PainterofCrap posted:If you spray with bleach, it should be no stronger than 10:1 with water. You shouldn't really smell it. Go around & cropdust after everything's dry. spray Lysol works too. Honestly bleach is probably overkill too, since it was potable water and he jumped on it so quickly. Bleach for difficult to wipe areas, and then even just "Bleach" wipes over the floor, etc., would probably be sufficient?
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Dec 5, 2021 17:28
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Bone Crimes posted:I think my next move will be to get more dehumidifiers to really get the moisture level lower. I think I'll go to the tool rental place and see about that today. We also have some loaners from friends coming today. My main concern is mold, and the disruption/pain in the butt-ness of getting the drywall ripped and replaced if that's needed. I don't care too much about the cost of it, but the planning and disruption. I'll likely be on the hook for it anyways as my deductible is $5K, and according to the insurance guy, that buys a lot of drywalling. Well, I found one bad wall. I was going around and re-testing the walls for moisture content, and pulling the molding off to get better airflow. The moisture content of most of the walls is dropping, except for one. I had a lot of trouble pulling the molding off that one as my tools pushed right through the drywall when I tried to lever it off. oof. The other walls held up as you would expect normal dry wall to when pulling the molding. Here's the bad wall, you can see an area pushed in that I was able to do by hand.  So that will need to be replaced. Now I guess I'll need an expert to determine if the other walls are bad? Again, I can't seem to find any info online that I trust. I was hoping for something like - if you drywall dries to X% moisture in X hours you're ok, else replace. My fear is that the flood restoration experts will just say to replace it all, as that's how they make money, and that will suck as my basement is fully finished. Edit: also the flood restoration company I called on Friday said they were gonna call in 24 hours, but didn't. They were the top rated ones by far though, so I'm trying to figure out if I should just wait till Monday, or if I should call someone else. I guess at this point it's not really an emergency, so I guess I should wait till I can get the most trusted company. (Helps to type this stuff out to check my logic). Bone Crimes fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Dec 5, 2021 |
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Dec 5, 2021 20:32
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SourKraut posted:Honestly bleach is probably overkill too, since it was potable water and he jumped on it so quickly. Bleach for difficult to wipe areas, and then even just "Bleach" wipes over the floor, etc., would probably be sufficient? Eh, it’s more of a peace-of-mind mold preventative for those who may need it.
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Dec 6, 2021 00:56
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PainterofCrap posted:Eh, it’s more of a peace-of-mind mold preventative for those who may need it. good point and very true
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Dec 6, 2021 02:00
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Should the down-rod for a new ceiling fan screw all the way into the motor assembly? Because mine... is not doing that; it looks like it goes about halfway in and then just stops and no amount of force from my hands can screw it further.Suburban Dad posted:Make sure the box in the ceiling is rated for a fan. If not, there's a brace you can buy that anchors it between a couple joists. Mine is rated for a fan but I have discovered that it is too small for this new fan. So now I have to find a ceiling joist to screw a new bracket assembly into. At 9:45 PM because I am stupid  (I got a real good worklight in here though. And yes it is plugged into an outlet in a different room.)
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Dec 6, 2021 04:43
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I. M. Gei posted:Should the down-rod for a new ceiling fan screw all the way into the motor assembly? Because mine... is not doing that; it looks like it goes about halfway in and then just stops and no amount of force from my hands can screw it further. Pictures are required here. Please post one of the two parts showing where it's screwing in to and one with it screwed in. It is likely bottoming out on something and that's as far as it's supposed to go. Post a picture of your box while you're at it.
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Dec 6, 2021 04:55
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