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PainterofCrap posted:Remove appliances. Perfect, thank you. Good point on the plugs too, I hadn't thought of that. I checked out the Samsung washers and dryers when I was at Lowe's grabbing the outlet and they all had straight plugs so I ought to be good with the one duplex. If I get a surprise when they get here and they have right angles then I guess we're only using one at a time until I can swap out the box, but I'm sure not doing all that if I don't have to.
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Dec 11, 2021 16:49
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Just in case I do end up needing to tear down what I've already put up...I. M. Gei posted:(and because I'm terrified of having to take down everything I already put up and do that poo poo all over again — that wiring was a BIIIIIITCH I only had like 3 inches of ceiling wire to work with and maybe an inch of space between the canopy and the ceiling to fit my hands into and see what the gently caress I was doing) I don't suppose there's a way to add a few inches to my ceiling wires, is there? Like maybe putting connectors on the ends and adding small lengths of black and white copper wire to them? My attic is a mess and moving around up there is difficult and kinda dangerous, so it'd be a whole hell of a lot easier and safer for me to add to the wire coming out of my ceiling than it would be to crawl around in the attic to see if there's any more of it there (which I doubt there is anyway).
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Dec 11, 2021 18:31
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Quick product question. I've got a ceiling fan in the bedroom, pulls chains for the fan speed and for the light. There's just a single switch leg that puts power to the entire fan. I'm thinking about putting a fan controller in the wall and just running a new line up to the fan, but it occurs to me that at this point in time someone might make some kind of apparatus that would work through the existing switch leg, like perhaps a little unit that mounts up in the canopy of the fan and can communicate with a fan controller over that existing leg. Is that a thing?
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Dec 11, 2021 20:10
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Phanatic posted:Quick product question. That’s a thing. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-3-Speed-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-Control-98130/313437557 There’s a fancier version with a screen, dimmer and a thermostat too. I wired my fan “always on,” and stuck the remote to the switch cover.
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Dec 11, 2021 20:33
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I continue to be confused by my shower. Here it is with the cartridge removed. Hot water is on the left: https://i.imgur.com/cFCJoJC.mp4 As you can see, I have plenty of hot water pressure and flow. It's significantly stronger than the cold water, in fact. However, when I close everything back up, this is what I get (cold water first, then hot): https://i.imgur.com/B0lKv9y.mp4 I can't find anything obviously wrong with the cartridge. I've tried a replacement (brand new) cartridge to no avail. I also tried widening the holes in the cartridge with a dremel, and that made no difference. If I remove the stop in the cartridge, so that the handle can go all the way around, the water gets hotter, but its flow and pressure remain terrible. How the hell can the cold water out of the shower be so much better (higher pressure/flow) than the hot, when the hot is clearly stronger before it gets to the cartridge? I'm so drat confused 
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Dec 11, 2021 22:10
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I. M. Gei posted:I don't suppose there's a way to add a few inches to my ceiling wires, is there? Like maybe putting connectors on the ends and adding small lengths of black and white copper wire to them? You can get a "ceiling fan extension kit", which is basically ceiling fan wire and some connectors.
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Dec 11, 2021 23:02
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:How the hell can the cold water out of the shower be so much better (higher pressure/flow) than the hot, when the hot is clearly stronger before it gets to the cartridge? I'm so drat confused I think because it’s mixed in a shared space before exiting the cartridge, you’re getting an average net pressure coming out. That’s as long as neither inlet is fully closed. The fact that it’s less even when fully hot could be based on the cartridge exit orifice design. If you have one already dremel’ed, maybe see if the joined outlet can be modified somehow?
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Dec 11, 2021 23:17
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mr.belowaverage posted:I think because it’s mixed in a shared space before exiting the cartridge, you’re getting an average net pressure coming out. That’s as long as neither inlet is fully closed. The fact that it’s less even when fully hot could be based on the cartridge exit orifice design. This is one thing I'm super unclear on. How does the water get out of the cartridge? This is what the cartridge looks like:   And this is the arrangement of the hot inlet (top left), cold inlet (top right), and the outlet (bottom):  I assume the metal plate of the cartridge presses flat against the rubber washers on the inlets, blocking water from flowing unless one of the holes in the cartridge is aligned with the inlet. But how does water then get to the outlet?
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Dec 11, 2021 23:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:This is one thing I'm super unclear on. How does the water get out of the cartridge? This is what the cartridge looks like: I don't actually know the answer, but looking at all your pictures- maybe some things to try: I was looking at the cartridge, and I can't figure out which part is the top, is it possible that you're installing it upside down? Also is there a way to change the force at which the cartridge is installed? It could be that the cartridge is either misaligned or bent or pushed too close to the outlet causing odd behaviour?
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Dec 12, 2021 01:19
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Bone Crimes posted:I don't actually know the answer, but looking at all your pictures- maybe some things to try: I was looking at the cartridge, and I can't figure out which part is the top, is it possible that you're installing it upside down? Also is there a way to change the force at which the cartridge is installed? It could be that the cartridge is either misaligned or bent or pushed too close to the outlet causing odd behaviour? There's four possible alignments of the cartridge, but only one of those behaves remotely sensibly. The others do things like have water flowing at both extremes of the handle's range of motion, have it cycle through hot water before cold, etc. As for force: the cartridge is held down to the plumbing by a hollow threaded...thing, I'm not sure how to describe it. It fits over the cartridge and screws down to the outside of the brass in the third photo. The first time I reassembled everything, I only hand-tightened that piece, and I had a minor leak. But it's possible I had some other problem as well, so that's something I can do some experimenting with. I still don't understand why this would affect only the hot water.
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Dec 12, 2021 01:48
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I. M. Gei posted:I'm gonna try ONE LAST TIME to make this poo poo work before I call Hunter and order a replacement unit. I will enlarge the holes to 13/64" and try using #12 screws. If that doesn't work then I give the gently caress up. Holy mother of god it worked. The #12 screws took a tiny bit of finagling, but they did screw in and they hold securely. I did it! I finished installing this loving fan. It took like 3 or 4 days longer than it should have but I finally did it! ... and then I found the missing second screw. The one that was supposed to have come screwed into the motor for me to connect the lighting kit to before I drilled all the holes bigger because I thought it wasn't there. Turns out it came loose in the box at some point and I put it in the glass light dome with a bunch of other small parts and then totally forgot about it. So basically I spent multiple days going back and forth to Home Depot and butchering a ceiling fan for absolutely no good reason. gently caress. 
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Dec 12, 2021 05:58
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But now you know. For next time.
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Dec 12, 2021 06:04
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:But now you know. For next time. We've all been there.
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Dec 12, 2021 06:37
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I. M. Gei posted:Holy mother of god it worked. The #12 screws took a tiny bit of finagling, but they did screw in and they hold securely. I knew you could. And now you get to be fuckin' Gary to the next owner of your home that decides to replace the fan. So you've got that going for you, which is nice.
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Dec 12, 2021 14:26
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Are there any leak-proof under sink water filtration systems out there? All the ones I've been researching have occasional issues with leaks and I just don't want to take that risk. Every filtration system uses plastic tubing with connections that "shouldn't" leak, but personally that's not enough of a guarantee for me.
melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Dec 12, 2021 17:14
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Any suggestions for sink reglazing? The coating has been coming off like crazy on my old cast iron sink. I've thought about replacing it, but it's old and likely not a standard size (it has huge 5 foot apron footprint). I kinda fear that if I replaced it it would pull the thread and necessitate also changing up the countertops.  (that discoloration is coming out today - cleaning day!)
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Dec 12, 2021 20:07
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El Mero Mero posted:Any suggestions for sink reglazing? The coating has been coming off like crazy on my old cast iron sink. I've thought about replacing it, but it's old and likely not a standard size (it has huge 5 foot apron footprint). I kinda fear that if I replaced it it would pull the thread and necessitate also changing up the countertops. I generally tell clients we won't participate in reglazing as part of our projects for two reasons. First, we tend to get call backs that the end result isn't great or fails quickly. This might be a workmanship issue, but it happened a couple times in a row and just isn't worth the aggravation. Second (and more importantly to me), the strippers used really shouldn't be used in an uncontrolled context like a residential home mostly due to worker danger. Most of the reglazing companies in my area are some kind of franchise, I can never get a clear idea of what chemicals they use, and I don't get the sense that their workers are well trained. This represents a hazard to the workers performing the work that I do not want to be involved in. https://blogs.cdc.gov/niosh-science-blog/2013/02/04/bathtub-refinishing/ https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/publications/methylene_chloride_hazard_alert.pdf Here is a company that sells replica drainboard sinks. I had them recommended to me once, but have not purchased from them. https://nbidbs.com/product-category/mid-century/
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Dec 12, 2021 22:42
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floWenoL posted:Hey thanks! "center outlet tee" was the magic phrase to search for to find what I want. Also I noticed that there is an arrow pointing to the direction of water flow, and indeed it was on the reverse side of the original outlet tee pointing to the right. Based on that and the previous replies (and after a few trips to Home Depot) I managed to replace the entire plumbing underneath the sink, and it's working well so far! Okay, so I have yet another followup question to this. So originally I had two problems: 1) Sometimes the sink with the garbage disposal would drain slowly and fill up. Running the garbage disposal for a few seconds fixes this. 2) Turning on the garbage disposal with water in the sink would cause water to shoot out of the drain of the other sink. So I definitely solved #2 by re-doing the drain plumbing. However, #1 is still happening. I've poked around a bit and here are some notes: - It's definitely not the pipes, since they're all brand new (and even the old ones looked fine). - Not sure what causes it to get clogged, but we hardly ever use the garbage disposal, and yet it happens somewhat regularly. I'd say a few times a month at least. - Running it for a few seconds always fixes it right away, and I even tried manually turning the crank on the bottom. Even turning it slightly fixes it. - The garbage disposal is an Insinkerator Badger 500 (1/2 HP) manufactured in 2017 (by the previous owner). - Peering into it, there's a bunch of rust on the spinner. The outside still seems to be in good shape though, so I don't think it'll leak anytime soon. My best guess is that the clogs are caused by grease/fat buildup from dirty dishes, combined with rust. Does this sound like something that can be easily (and semi-permanently fixed)? I guess it's possible to take the garbage disposal apart and try and clean the rust off, but I feel like at that point I may as well get a new disposal since they're not super expensive. Although I'd probably want to upgrade, if only to get a quieter model, and that would probably necessitate redoing the drain work again  .Anyone have any suggestions?
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Dec 12, 2021 22:54
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and after (baffle in the middle): 
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Tezer posted:
Oh this is great, i didn't even know what the style of sink was called. That gives me hope I can just get a replacement to fit into the same space.
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Dec 12, 2021 23:10
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floWenoL posted:1) Sometimes the sink with the garbage disposal would drain slowly and fill up. Running the garbage disposal for a few seconds fixes this. It sounds like you're asking why you need to run the garbage disposal when the sink is clogged and I am baffled. That's literally what it is for right? Isn't that the whole point of it?
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Dec 13, 2021 00:44
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Corla Plankun posted:It sounds like you're asking why you need to run the garbage disposal when the sink is clogged and I am baffled. That's literally what it is for right? Isn't that the whole point of it? I thought the point of a garbage disposal was so that one could put foodstuffs down it and grind it up so that it goes down the sink drain. I guess what I'm saying is that I don't really use it for that -- I usually dump any foodstuffs in the garbage can, and put the dishes in the dishwasher -- and yet it seems to get occasionally clogged up anyway. Saying it another way, if it were a regular sink drain, I would expect it to not clog given how I use the sink, since I don't put anything down the sink bigger than, say, the bits of food remaining on a dirty plate. (Also, I have a double sink, and the other side has never gotten clogged.) However, the garbage disposal seems to clog way easier than a regular sink drain. Does that make sense?
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Dec 13, 2021 03:17
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The garbage disposal has a bunch of machinery in it that water has to flow through to get out. It wouldn't surprise me if even just small quantities of food could significantly impede the flow of water through it. You could get a mesh filter to put over the sink drain, to catch everything that would normally get stuck in the disposal. See if that affects anything. Also: how confident are you that everyone in your household shares your habits in terms of how they treat that sink?
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Dec 13, 2021 05:08
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You could always take out the disposal if you don't use it. We don't have one here with our septic tank (but had one when living in the city). I've got neighbors who do use a disposal with septic but I've never really researched if it's a good idea or not.
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Dec 13, 2021 05:25
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floWenoL posted:Does that make sense? This just sounds like the normal garbage disposal experience to me. Sometimes it backs up and you run it for 5 seconds.
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Dec 13, 2021 05:26
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korora posted:This just sounds like the normal garbage disposal experience to me. Sometimes it backs up and you run it for 5 seconds. Yeah, this is just part of having a garbage disposal. Also worth noting that your dishwasher drains into it as well (that hose coming into the side of it), so any crud coming out of your dishwasher contributes to build up in there. In my experience, the size of chunks that go down a normal sink drain can definitely clog up a disposal. But yeah, just burp it on a few seconds - literally what it is designed to do. Also, to the goon above with the septic - my parents are super septic conscious (let me tell you about their toilet paper experiments) - and run a garbage disposal with zero problems. I have to imagine the bigger issue is *what* you put down the drain, not whether it gets slurried by a disposal or not.
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Dec 13, 2021 05:30
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that's also my disposal experience but i am curious as to why it happens
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Dec 13, 2021 05:34
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If you use your garbage disposal always make sure you are running the faucet when you turn it on. If you have a garbage disposal you seldom use you should probably make it a habit of running it for 30 seconds while running hot water down it once a week just to make sure dishwasher drainage and regular use don't clog it up. It's designed to capture food waste so it can be ground up and isn't going to work as well as a normal drain if you don't fire it up on occasion. That should keep things flowing smoothly. If you have a disposal that won't turn on after a period of disuse or having something get lodged in it try going underneath the disposal and see if there is a spot to put in an Allen wrench to turn the disposal backwards and break the blades free/dislodge something caught in it. If there isn't a spot on the bottom you can take the rubber disc out of the top and jam a hammer handle down and try to spin it. Obviously make sure the breaker is off/cord is unplugged before messing with it. If your garbage disposal motor runs but water is not draining or draining slowly while it's running. Get a pitcher full of ice cubes and a pitcher full of boiling water. Dump the ice into the disposal and turn it on and then carefully pour the boiling water down the drain. The ice will blow any accumulated crap off the blades and the boiling water will melt the ice and flush the crap down the drain and it should flow fine again. My ex would put poo poo like potato peels and coffee grounds down our disposal all the time and I would have to clear it with ice/ boiling water a few times a year. I never had issues with smell from my garbage disposal but I have heard dumping lemon juice down a smelly disposal before/after clearing I with ice will fix that too.
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Dec 13, 2021 05:53
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Thanks all for chiming in -- I guess maybe this is just normal garbage disposal life.  I do remember not having any problems with garbage disposals in my previous apartments, but then again, I was eating out a lot more those days...
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Dec 13, 2021 07:25
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The opening in a standard (US) sink drain is 1-1/2 inches, starting at the sink. Garbage disposals have small openings, no more than 1/2"-3/4", in the bottom perimeter of the drum (the part that you could stick your hand into) in order to ensure that what's ground up is small enough to be thrown through the holes and drain without clogging. Also, wastewater drains through something more like a labyrinth before it gets to the outflow drain in the side. So follow the advice above: run hot water & spin it for a few seconds. Once in a while, it wouldn't hurt to fill the sink with water about half-way, pull the bung and run the disposal to flush it out. I try to do this before we go away for more than a couple days at a time, to prevent sink-funk. It sounds like armageddon & shakes everything. That's normal.
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Dec 13, 2021 16:06
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By the way, one thing that will *definitely* gently caress up a disposal is large quantities of grease (bacon fat, roast drippings, whatever). The grease solidifies. This is why you always run hot water through when you're trying to declog. It is also why you pour large quantities of grease (except bacon fat you monster) into a tin can or a milk jug or whatever before throwing it in the trash.
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Dec 13, 2021 17:29
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Rexxed posted:You could always take out the disposal if you don't use it. We don't have one here with our septic tank (but had one when living in the city). I've got neighbors who do use a disposal with septic but I've never really researched if it's a good idea or not. Also on septic. I don't go out of my way to feed scraps through the disposal, but some solids are inevitable. I'd rather it all be mulched up before it travels to my poop tank.
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Dec 13, 2021 18:42
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I'm not sure if this is the right thread to ask, if it should go somewhere else please let me know (might warrant a thread even). I live in a house that my grandmother owns in Los Angeles. It's a very old, small (788 sq. ft.) house, 1923, and it needs a LOT of work. I moved into it after another family member moved out, and now my grandmother is talking about me buying it from her. I'd like to but, whether I do or not, it is a family property and I want to make smart decisions about how to go about repairs on it. I've always considered this house a tear down, but I don't have tear down money, or at least I don't think I do. When I moved in I rented the small bedroom to a friend and I took the big bedroom and we had our bachelor pad, now it's MY GIRLFRIEND and I (do we still make that joke on SA?) and we have done a lot of work to clean the place up to a presentable standard but it's time for the serious stuff, namely kitchen, bathroom and roof. Anyway I need to decide if I start doing repairs piece by piece, or decide to go full tear down remodel, or even full property remodel with 2 houses on the lot (which every single neighbor buying into the neighborhood has been doing.) Here's the giant to-do list in order of importance: 1. Kitchen: the cabinets are particle board from the 80's and need to go. The kitchen exists in a space that I believe was originally a back patio off the driveway, because it is an L shape around what I believe was the outside wall (it had that sharp bumpy stucco texture painted over) that borders the bathroom, which is now smack dab in the center of the house, but the roof line doesn't look like it was modified. It is a terrible layout, basically a straight line against a wall, with hardly any counterspace to speak of, originally we thought of doing a cheap ikea kitchen but because that stuff is all modular it simply wouldn't look "right" the window against the front of the house is only about a foot away from the wall facing the driveway and ikea cabinents are deeper than that, so the cabs would overlap the window if they went all the way to the corner. Also the roof is popcorn, most likely asbestos, and the tile is butted up to the cabinets and would need to be pulled. It's also ugly brown and we've painted over them, but that would need to go too. Redoing the layout of the kitchen would be ideal, but the space is small and would have to come into the little room that bridges the kitchen area to the living room. I was thinking about putting a J shaped counter top and moving the sink onto that, facing into the rest of the house. This would require moving the fridge to who knows where and changing plumbing. 2. Roof/window frames: The roof was actually worked on within the last 20 years, from the sidewalk it looks good, but under the shingles over the porch something is wrong, it's leaking right in front of the door, all the eaves are rotten, and I'm sure these are symptoms of a larger issue. The attic doesn't smell damp and I don't see any leaks up there, thankfully, but I'm sure a lot of work is needed. The window frames at the bottom of the windows are all holding water, they look like they were made from sponges. 3. Bathroom: Needs a remodel, the tub is a plastic jacuzzi tub that is impossible to keep clean around the nozzles, and holds a puddle of water near the drain that has had algae grow and eat at that spot, making it almost like sand paper and also impossible to keep clean, it destroys sponges and clothes used to clean it. The floor and halfway up the wall on the toilet, sink and higher up on the tub side is all gross brown and lighter tan tile that needs to go. The roof was punched up to the roof and a skylight placed up there, the walls created to go to the roof are wood slats that give the bathroom a cabin in the woods feel, but there's nothing behind the slats, and they're not butted together correctly at the corners, if I'm in the attic I can put my fingers into the bathroom. 3. Porch: crappy brick construction, also not leveled to drain water out, it puddles up against the corner under the front door. Cracks throughout, needs to be rebuilt. 4. Backyard: 3 levels due to the hill the house is on, needs to be completely re-landscaped, I would have to post a picture to explain the madness that is my backyard. Very large though, has a new shed behind the garage for storage, the garage itself has a new door, but is original and too small for a modern vehicle, we have built some cabinets and a workbench back there ourselves and it is basically a woodshop. If I had unlimited funds I would flatten the lot to 1 level, put a building back there with a garage and another home back there, ultimately maybe we live back there, and rent the front house out, or vice versa. It could work either way since there is an alley in the back. 5. Heater: One of those old in floor types, is loud, needs work. Ideally and replaced with HVAC system with air filter since my partner has asthma and we do use a big rolling AC unit that is costly a few times a year, and we have a Dyson heat/fan/filter running almost all the time in the winter when we keep the windows shut more. 6. Floor, plumping, wiring: All need work, the floor is creaky, has some rot where a fridge was allowed to leak onto it for years. The wiring is original and added onto in very strange ways, basically every wall outlet and light is on 1 breaker, thankfully the fridge is on the bathroom light wiring  The plumping is original, thankfully the toilet only backs up occasionally, but it's all original pipes.Here's a bad MSpaint of the layout to show how bad it is (2nd driveway held a motorhome in the past, hence why it exists).  So THE BIG QUESTION is: Do I start with the kitchen remodel, and start piecing together a decent house over the course of the next 5 years or so? Or do I figure out how to do a big remodel? I have no idea where to start, how do I figure out what the value of my home would be? How do I evaluate if tearing it all down and building 2 houses on the lot would pay for itself? Is the wood and materials market so hosed up right now that the work would cost more than it's worth? Can I do all this on my 70k salary? Should we just bear with it for now, figure out where we want to live next, and let my grandma sell it? I'm crippled by choices and indecision!
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Dec 14, 2021 18:47
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Do they make small pieces of drywall that you can cut patches out of? I've got a handful of holes in the wall from various incidents over the past several years and I wanted to see if there was a better solution than repair fabric and joint compound - I was thinking sticking a piece of drywall cut to size on the back of the fabric and then pushing a bunch of joint compound in around it. They're no larger than 2x3 or 2x4 and a couple are the size of a doorknob (lovely doorstops + rough kids).
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Dec 14, 2021 19:33
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D34THROW posted:Do they make small pieces of drywall that you can cut patches out of? I've got a handful of holes in the wall from various incidents over the past several years and I wanted to see if there was a better solution than repair fabric and joint compound - I was thinking sticking a piece of drywall cut to size on the back of the fabric and then pushing a bunch of joint compound in around it. They're no larger than 2x3 or 2x4 and a couple are the size of a doorknob (lovely doorstops + rough kids). Are those ft or inches? Because any big box hardware store should have 2 ft x 2 ft squares of drywall specifically for patches.
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Dec 14, 2021 20:23
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Nitramster posted:So THE BIG QUESTION is: Do I start with the kitchen remodel, and start piecing together a decent house over the course of the next 5 years or so? Or do I figure out how to do a big remodel? I have no idea where to start, how do I figure out what the value of my home would be? How do I evaluate if tearing it all down and building 2 houses on the lot would pay for itself? Is the wood and materials market so hosed up right now that the work would cost more than it's worth? Can I do all this on my 70k salary? Should we just bear with it for now, figure out where we want to live next, and let my grandma sell it? I'm crippled by choices and indecision! You start with owning the property. Figure out how much your grandmother wants for the property and compare that to the alternatives available to you locally. Perhaps your grandmother wants to give you a screaming deal and it will be worth all the renovation headache. Maybe she thinks it is actually worth a lot of money, and you're better off not purchasing the property. Regarding figuring out the value of your grandmother's home (it is not your home) - you can get an appraisal of the property, or you can ask a trusted real estate agent to put together comparable sales for you, or you can go online and troll for similar properties on your favorite real estate website. It sounds like the home is in rough condition, this may mean it is difficult to find truly comparable properties. This process can take a lot of time and effort, especially if you end up self performing a lot of the renovation. Think about whether you really want to become a construction worker in your spare time for the next couple of years.
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Dec 14, 2021 21:08
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DaveSauce posted:Are those ft or inches? Inches, I'm assuming I can hacksaw or oscillating-tool out a chunk. The round holes might be a little tougher to work with but they can be handled. Thank you!
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Dec 14, 2021 21:27
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You can make your round holes square.
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Dec 14, 2021 21:57
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D34THROW posted:Inches, I'm assuming I can hacksaw or oscillating-tool out a chunk. The round holes might be a little tougher to work with but they can be handled. I use a drywall saw, should find it in the electrical aisle. Just about any saw should work I suppose, but the drywall saw is purpose built. Best practice is to cut a square hole around the damage and then use that cut piece as a pattern for your patch, that way you cut a patch that fits the hole. Not always feasible, but it's the goal. Drywall saw has an advantage here because it has a point used to punch through existing drywall. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Dec 14, 2021 |
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Dec 14, 2021 21:57
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D34THROW posted:a couple are the size of a doorknob (lovely doorstops + rough kids). When I had a similar problem I ended up just slapping one of these over the doorknob holes. It's not the perfectly correct fix but it's fast and easy and durable, and it looks decent without having to deal with matching paint on the patched area. I'll fix it for real the next time that room gets painted. EDIT: I just realized I linked the smaller version, but I think I actually went with the 5 inch version. Khizan fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Dec 14, 2021 |
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Dec 14, 2021 22:20
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Tezer posted:You start with owning the property. Figure out how much your grandmother wants for the property and compare that to the alternatives available to you locally. Perhaps your grandmother wants to give you a screaming deal and it will be worth all the renovation headache. Maybe she thinks it is actually worth a lot of money, and you're better off not purchasing the property. Then do the roof, immediately. The only thing that will make the house unsalvageable faster than a leak is a fire.
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Dec 14, 2021 23:43
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