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Soooon. Wasn't sure on the color choice at first, but I kinda like it.
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Dec 16, 2021 04:22
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115% takes 4! days and took like 20 min to slice. almost 500g Checking the normal 100% time, its plenty big i might just let that fly, especially if i need a brim JFC 3days. Roundboy fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Dec 16, 2021 |
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Dec 16, 2021 04:34
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The biggest one I did was 400g and took 48 hours, yeah. It’s a lot of starts and stops with all those discrete segments. Increasing layer thickness could speed things up fairly significantly here, of course. I think I did my standard .15 though.
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Dec 16, 2021 04:45
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Roundboy posted:115% takes 4! days and took like 20 min to slice. The most strenuous thing I've put this shiny new M1 Max Macbook Pro through has been slicing. It's so much faster than the older mac mini I usually use. I might need to break out the 0.6mm nozzle for the next big guy.
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Dec 16, 2021 04:51
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uhhhh i think I might have just scored PIF voron parts months early this might change everything Edited that slug, switched infill and upped some speeds (infill, travel) and now its almost 2 days. Hitting the button when this print finishes Roundboy fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Dec 16, 2021 |
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Dec 16, 2021 04:57
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My slicer is estimating that I can fit a 200% curled slug on my printer and have it wrap up in 3 and a half days. Not worth the 1.8kg of filament to do that though. 115% is a cool 29 hours and 460g of filament. I should really get a .6 or .8mm nozzle for this at some point.
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Dec 16, 2021 05:15
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Roundboy posted:115% takes 4! days and took like 20 min to slice. almost 500g What are you slicing with? Took me 30-40 seconds on Prusa slicer
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Dec 16, 2021 05:44
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ImplicitAssembler posted:What are you slicing with? Took me 30-40 seconds on Prusa slicer cura took about 8 min. Super slicer about 30 sec. I was trying to switch over havent doe it yet, so my settings might be off
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Dec 16, 2021 05:51
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Infill choice and layer height can make a large difference. Slicing a cylinder (d 84, h 75) .1mm 20% stars infill: 19 sec. Gyroid infill: 1m21s Different printers will have different default infills. Prusaslicer's prusa mini default profile is gyroid, but its ender 5+ default profile is rectilinear (or maybe grid, I don't have it setup here.)
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Dec 16, 2021 06:10
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I change infill depending on what I'm printing.
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Dec 16, 2021 06:22
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I do too, but with the big asterisk that the vast majority of the time - when I'm nowhere the limits of what the shell can support by itself - it's zig zag @ 10% because it's utterly good enough
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Dec 16, 2021 07:39
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Giving superslicer a go. I want to love the options on speeds, etc, but i need to get use to where everything is again. I don;t know why it wants to make a skirt on the first 3 layers. But at least the hours i spent getting this bed in order are worth it so far. No more updates coming to this printer... just burn though the plastic i have siting around I still used glue to hold down the little bits  8 hours later @ 19%  Why yes, i do have the part fan zip tied on. I need a 1-2mm longer m4 screw and I haven't been bothered to order more. And it works Roundboy fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Dec 16, 2021 |
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Dec 16, 2021 14:10
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Oh my God, 4 days for half-kg of plastic? People accept those speeds?
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Dec 16, 2021 15:44
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insta posted:Oh my God, 4 days for half-kg of plastic? People accept those speeds? That is slicer time. Actual times are much less. But yes we do, until I build a bigger / better beast
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Dec 16, 2021 15:51
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insta posted:Oh my God, 4 days for half-kg of plastic? People accept those speeds? They do if they want to leave settings at .1mm layer heights or whatever.
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Dec 16, 2021 15:56
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Are those fan duct things for the Ender 3 worth printing if all you're doing is PLA?
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Dec 16, 2021 16:16
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Toebone posted:Are those fan duct things for the Ender 3 worth printing if all you're doing is PLA? Yes, but it depends on what you're after. Something like a Satsana will give you a noticeable improvement in bridging/overhangs, but if you're not currently having problems then it may not be worth it. If you're upgrading your fans you'll also probably need to adjust your settings because just going full bore with beefier cooling will cause your parts to warp off the bed pretty badly.
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Dec 16, 2021 16:32
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Toebone posted:Are those fan duct things for the Ender 3 worth printing if all you're doing is PLA? I have had all 3 printed at one point. Petsfang is nice for the various hotends, fans, etc but his organizaton is a mess, and i think the duct has some weak parts. herome is ok? but i needed so many longer screws for stock equipment i never actually mounted it. the satsana duct goes on with stock hardware and fans.. but I did print the one with a better bltouch bracket and for a larger part fan. Even with the stock fan its worth it because you can really up your bridge game and eliminate a lot of supports Edit: Cooling on a 5010 fan is big. @ 100% the fan is much louder then stock. But I have my settings at 50% being the new max. I dont know how this works in supersclier, but I know cura has experimental bridge settings that knows I am spanning space, and cranks it up to 100% for that portion Roundboy fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Dec 16, 2021 |
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Dec 16, 2021 16:43
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Google Butt posted:Put the printer in an enclosure and add a simple exhaust out the window using an inline fan I have the exhaust from my resin printer pointed at the fume hood for my airbrush, which vents outside, and keep it running until the current run is cured, and the vat is covered or cleaned. I've never had a whiff of resin smell in the room. How hosed am I ?
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Dec 16, 2021 16:50
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get your affairs in order now, I'm afraid
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Dec 16, 2021 19:18
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Am I right in remembering someone saying white filament is trickier to print with than other colours? Something to do with it needing a lot more pigment than most colours, so it doesn't flow as well? I'm having a hell of a time with a new roll of white PLA from a brand (Amazon Basics) I've had no problems with before in other colours, with settings that have churned through hundreds of prints with no problems. I'm not sure if it's bad because it's white and worth the effort of trying to dial it out, or if it's just a poo poo reel and I should just give it up and see if they'll accept a return. (Problems have been just about everything that can go wrong with filament printing - randomly not sticking to the bed, warping, supports welding themselves to the print, and both over- and under-extrusion. Trying again with the Amazon Basics black on the same setttings works fine, as does the Sunlu silk PLA which is normally an utter pain in the arse to print with)
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Dec 16, 2021 19:18
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Am I right in remembering someone saying white filament is trickier to print with than other colours? Something to do with it needing a lot more pigment than most colours, so it doesn't flow as well? Yes, titanium dioxide.
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Dec 16, 2021 19:27
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Has anyone here used 3d printed parts to stiffen other plastic parts? I am trying to find the best way to connect a printed strut to a (probably ABS) part. Just screw it on? I feel like there should be a more elgant solution.
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Dec 16, 2021 19:54
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If it is ABS, I guess there's solvent welding?
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Dec 16, 2021 20:01
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SEKCobra posted:Has anyone here used 3d printed parts to stiffen other plastic parts? I am trying to find the best way to connect a printed strut to a (probably ABS) part. Just screw it on? I feel like there should be a more elgant solution. JB plastic weld.
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Dec 16, 2021 20:04
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The slug was a hit at the white elephant exchange. Now I’m making 3 more for coworkers.
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Dec 17, 2021 01:44
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Am I right in remembering someone saying white filament is trickier to print with than other colours? Something to do with it needing a lot more pigment than most colours, so it doesn't flow as well? I'm having a hell of a time with a new roll of white PLA from a brand (Amazon Basics) I've had no problems with before in other colours, with settings that have churned through hundreds of prints with no problems. I'm not sure if it's bad because it's white and worth the effort of trying to dial it out, or if it's just a poo poo reel and I should just give it up and see if they'll accept a return. I would like to know more as well - I've got Christmas gifts planned that will require me to crack open my first roll of white, and I'm curious what kind of adjustments are involved with getting it to chooch
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Dec 17, 2021 01:51
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smax posted:The slug was a hit at the white elephant exchange. Now I’m making 3 more for coworkers. 20h in @ 48% done. I kinda want to try it with this blue TPU i have next Edit.. Im actually a bit worried about the rest of the spool. Getting way down there Roundboy fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Dec 17, 2021 |
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Dec 17, 2021 02:22
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Javid posted:I would like to know more as well - I've got Christmas gifts planned that will require me to crack open my first roll of white, and I'm curious what kind of adjustments are involved with getting it to chooch Well I've just decided this reel was just poo poo (and realised it was way out of the returns window) because I remembered I'd merrily burned through a reel of no brand white that I used for prototyping, with only a bit of spider webbing that I just zapped with a heat gun. As I have a project where finish is going to be a bit more important, I've ordered a reel of Sunlu PLA plus - I've never had any problems with other colours from them, even silk, so I'll give it a go and let you know how it goes.
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Dec 17, 2021 02:39
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Javid posted:I would like to know more as well - I've got Christmas gifts planned that will require me to crack open my first roll of white, and I'm curious what kind of adjustments are involved with getting it to chooch Honestly just treat it like any other new filament - run a temp tower and pick a good temp and you’ll likely be good to go.
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Dec 17, 2021 02:45
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I had a lot of crappy prints early on i attributed to me needing to upgrade and tune my printer so much. But it tuned out to be that I bought a bunch of different silk PLA because it looked pretty and fine detail was lost on it. normal hatchbox PLA, and some PLA+ print so much better, so I am going to avoid it for the mist part in the future. But this rainbow fillament slug is coming out okay so far.
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Dec 17, 2021 04:26
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I want to get a 3D printer to make parts for robots and cameras. I don't immediately anticipate needing anything bigger than a 150mm-a-side volume, and the recommended materials for the parts I want seem to be PLA and PETG. I haven't owned a 3D printer before but have played around with a borrowed FIashforge of some variety. I don't mind messing with firmware and hardware a bit if necessary, but it's nice if I don't have to spend too much time on it. I'm looking to spend no more than about 5000 NOK (around 550 USD, but prices tend to be on the high side here so it goes less far than you'd think). Looking at what's available here at that price I can probably get a Creality CR-6 SE for a bit under that or a Prusa Mini+ for around 6k NOK after shipping. Is there a strong reason to prefer one over the other, or consider something else? The posts on page one seem hot on Prusa but don't say why. Am I spending too much for my purposes and should go with a cheaper model? There are plenty of Creality printers available in Norwegian shops, other brands have a limited range but I can look if there's a specific recommended model. I doubt it's cost effective to order from abroad after customs and shipping. big scary monsters fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Dec 17, 2021 |
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Dec 17, 2021 05:31
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Did y'all see the new updates to the PrusaPrints site? They added an incentive system where if you upload models that get lots of likes and downloads, or post makes of other people's prints, you get points for free Prusament. https://blog.prusaprinters.org/introducing-a-new-reward-system-and-badges-for-prusaprinters_60073
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Dec 17, 2021 07:41
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big scary monsters posted:I want to get a 3D printer to make parts for robots and cameras. I don't immediately anticipate needing anything bigger than a 150mm-a-side volume, and the recommended materials for the parts I want seem to be PLA and PETG. I haven't owned a 3D printer before but have played around with a borrowed FIashforge of some variety. I don't mind messing with firmware and hardware a bit if necessary, but it's nice if I don't have to spend too much time on it. Get a Prusa Mini+ It's in your budget and comes with a good manual where it Just Works if you follow the instructions. The reason Original Prusa printers have the reputation they do is because the guy that designed and sells them does good work.
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Dec 17, 2021 10:22
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If you're just a little bit handy, get an Ender V2 and upgrade it to a Direct Drive. It'll save you a bundle of cash, print just as well as the Prusa and you'll learn more in the process.
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Dec 17, 2021 10:40
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Can we not do the thing where people make recommendations for "you'll learn a lot" and "if you're a little handy" when someone specifically said they want a 3d printer to make things and not generally where the machine itself is the hobby?
Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 12:05 on Dec 17, 2021 |
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Dec 17, 2021 11:32
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Can we not do the thing where people make recommendations for "you'll learn a lot" and "if you're a little handy" when someone specifically said they want a 3d printer to make things and not generally where the machine itself is the hobby? Home 3D printing is still at a level where you're going to need to tinker quite a bit to get the best results, and if results is all you're interested in and not the tinkering you'll have a lot less pain (and probably save money compared to buying a top-end machine) if you just outsource the actual printing. The thing that got me into 3D printing was the impossibility of finding a GoPro mount for my crash helmet. I found something on a forum that did the job and it cost me £10 to get it printed in three different materials by a local shop (they had a £10 minimum order so I got one in PLA, one in ABS, and one done with one of those laser sintering systems). As it turns out it wasn't *exactly* what I wanted and Amazon had a deal on a tiny little printer for £89 (and we were going into covid lockdown) and while I know that I could get better and easier results with much more expensive equipment it's Good Enough and learning its foibles (and that of the £200 Anet clone I replaced it with) is a hobby in itself, which I'm perfectly happy with, but like I say I could definitely have got the things I *needed* printed done much more cheaply by professionals - the journey is the fun bit. I'm going to seriously date myself here and compare it to film photography - you can save yourself a lot of money and *possibly* get better results with your own darkroom but if all you're actually interested in is some holiday snaps to show your family you're going to be much better served by just dropping the film in at the chemists.
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Dec 17, 2021 12:51
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That is pretty much my point. I've done the "buy a cheaper machine and constantly have to gently caress with it to get successful prints" thing, having started in this hobby back in 2015 (when almost all pre-assembled machines were just as expensive as Prusa but nowhere near as reliable; anybody else remember Robo3d and their popularity boost due to a YouTube reviewer that called himself Barnacles? Those things were $750+ and a pile of hot garbage). If I had it to do again I would have saved up for a Lulzbot or Makergear machine because back then they were the names you heard other than Prusa for decent machines with good support from the seller. And Prusa isn't the only vendor with a reputation for quality-of-life out of the gate features on their machines--they're just the only one I have bought anything from. Nobody ever posts about getting a Creality printer without hedging with "well, just a few small upgrades and you'll have something that can compete with a Prusa". Where is the goon that posted about getting an Ender because they wanted to tinker and followed up with how much they regret that decision?
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Dec 17, 2021 13:23
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Anycubic mega zero 2.0 has been pretty plug and play for me, 110USD shipped on sale right now and no non-user-error failures 
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Dec 17, 2021 13:48
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Guest2553 posted:Anycubic mega zero 2.0 has been pretty plug and play for me, 110USD shipped on sale right now and no non-user-error failures That's one of the ones I was thinking of for FDM machines that generally get decent reviews (if it's the one that has the "ultrabase" build plate on it). Some folks don't like their build plate though (and honestly I really can't stand my machines that haven't been converted to a flexible steel removable build plate yet--I hate scraping to remove prints). I'm not a fan of any machine that uses rubber rollers on metal extrusions as their axes alignment/travel though. Linear rails, or at least bearings and rods, or GTFO.
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Dec 17, 2021 14:19
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