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Sockser posted:And now I use that 5-step stair strip thing. This thing is absolutely the MVP. It got my z level so precise that I went from having constant bed adhesion issues to my bed adhesion being frankly TOO good, and now I have to use a spatula to remove certain prints. Speaking of which anyone have a good recommendation for a scraper that won’t hurt the coating on the steel sheet?
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Dec 17, 2021 23:19
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Pham Nuwen posted:This is a pretty drat compelling price point, and it can even print bigger than the Prusa Mini. Is there going to be perceptible difference between the print quality of a Prusa Mini vs. an MP10 Mini? In a truly apples-to-apples comparison (same source model, slicer settings for layers/infill/temperature/speed)? No. I would not expect the electronics on a Monoprice printer to last as long as a Prusa though. I won't really have a comparable reference for the Prusa I have vs. the Monoprice machine I got back in 2017 until, like, 2023 because the control board on my Monoprice machine died late 2019 and I just got my Prusa machine in the early part of 2021. I keep saying I'll replace the control board/etc. on that Monoprice printer but  Just keep the 30-day return in mind and make sure you swap the Monoprice if there is any kind of problem with it. Do not try to "fix" it unless you let that deadline slip.
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Dec 18, 2021 00:24
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Making gears is still a lot more cumbersome than I would like, I really thought someone make this simpler by now.
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Dec 18, 2021 00:25
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SEKCobra posted:Making gears is still a lot more cumbersome than I would like, I really thought someone make this simpler by now. As in modeling them or machining/casting them? Because there are several gear generators on Thingiverse.
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Dec 18, 2021 00:26
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Talorat posted:Speaking of which anyone have a good recommendation for a scraper that won’t hurt the coating on the steel sheet? I like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076BBW1WM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Comes with a huge box of spare blades and are useful for lots of things.
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Dec 18, 2021 00:34
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biracial bear for uncut posted:As in modeling them or machining/casting them? Modelling anything more complex than two spur gears. I am making a really simple rc car drivetrain (because there are seemingly no commercial parts) and making the necessary bevel gears to fit inside the available space is really cumbersome (and I'm pretty sure my bevel gears are poo poo compared to ideal).
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Dec 18, 2021 00:41
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Is it pretty normal for a new hot end to smell like burning oil/rubber? I bought a cheap Micro Swiss clone all metal hot end and after printing an XYZ cube it kind of filled the room with a faint smell of burning oil. It didn't smoke or anything, and I'm reasonably certain I installed everything correctly, but it just kind of stinks. Am I correct in assuming that this is some sort of oil left on the metal after machining, or is this my own fault for buying cheap poo poo and it's going to burn my house down?
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Dec 18, 2021 00:42
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42h 18m 115%
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Dec 18, 2021 00:43
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Roundboy posted:42h 18m 
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Dec 18, 2021 00:47
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Jadius posted:Is it pretty normal for a new hot end to smell like burning oil/rubber? I bought a cheap Micro Swiss clone all metal hot end and after printing an XYZ cube it kind of filled the room with a faint smell of burning oil. It didn't smoke or anything, and I'm reasonably certain I installed everything correctly, but it just kind of stinks. Am I correct in assuming that this is some sort of oil left on the metal after machining, or is this my own fault for buying cheap poo poo and it's going to burn my house down? It's likely fine if it's only for the first print or two. If it persists, something is probably melting. SEKCobra posted:Modelling anything more complex than two spur gears. I am making a really simple rc car drivetrain (because there are seemingly no commercial parts) and making the necessary bevel gears to fit inside the available space is really cumbersome (and I'm pretty sure my bevel gears are poo poo compared to ideal). Solidworks has a bunch of built-in gear templates, and Rhino has a free gear generator plugin.
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Dec 18, 2021 00:51
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Roundboy posted:42h 18m  What filament is that? The rainbow stuff I've used before hasn't actually been very rainbow-y, the colours have been a bit muted which still works but I want something a bit more  like that
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Dec 18, 2021 00:55
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goddamnedtwisto posted:
CC3D Rainbow filament via amazon I have complained about it before, but as far as silk PLA goes, its held up, printed okay, and actually looked like the metallic color in the description. If I never see more rainbow in a different brand I would likely get it again. Its really nice for prints that just work in the color transition, i wish i knew the length between colors
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Dec 18, 2021 01:14
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Sagebrush posted:It's likely fine if it's only for the first print or two. If it persists, something is probably melting. Guess I should give my Solidworks license another spin while I still have it.
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Dec 18, 2021 01:20
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Roundboy posted:42h 18m I love it!
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Dec 18, 2021 01:21
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Are there any bright silver PLA filaments? They all seem to be fairly dark grey.
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Dec 18, 2021 01:29
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jeff8472 posted:Are there any bright silver PLA filaments? They all seem to be fairly dark grey. I was going to say the same, but i have seen some actual build pictures of Sunlu silk PLA+ silver filament and it looks pretty drat shiny and nice
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Dec 18, 2021 01:35
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jeff8472 posted:Are there any bright silver PLA filaments? They all seem to be fairly dark grey. I've seen "steel" coloured silk PLA that might do the trick but I don't think I've ever seen an actual silvery colour, I'd guess it's quite tricky to actually get it right because a lot of the lustre of silver it from the reflectivity which of course I don't think you can really do with PLA (or plastic generally).
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Dec 18, 2021 01:38
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jeff8472 posted:Are there any bright silver PLA filaments? They all seem to be fairly dark grey. As others have said, you want a silk. They'll have a sheen.
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Dec 18, 2021 01:53
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jeff8472 posted:Are there any bright silver PLA filaments? They all seem to be fairly dark grey. I’ve used plenty of silk metallic filaments, but never anything as good as this Polymaker Silk PLA Filament 1.75mm Silver, 1kg Spool Shiny PLA Filament 1.75 - PolyLite PLA 3D Printer Filament, Print with Most 3D Printers Using 3D Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T1B2B9B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CSQZSKPMDZR3EY72YFX2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Dec 18, 2021 02:32
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Sockser posted:I’ve used plenty of silk metallic filaments, but never anything as good as this Prints are actually that color ? Because I have rolls of stuff that shiny, but it doesnt print that way. The sunlu i recommended before was because i saw actual prints of it
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Dec 18, 2021 02:44
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biracial bear for uncut posted:
Repeating it doesn't make it more correct. The guy asked for opinions, appears to have skills and a limited budget. I gave him an alternative, perfectly valid opinion, that has worked for tons of people. Sure, if you have the money and want as close to a turnkey solution as possible, buy a Prusa...but if you have a spare weekend or 2 , you can get a much better printer for the same amount of money, using an Ender3 V2 as a starting point.
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Dec 18, 2021 03:49
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Idle thought, but surely part cooling (i.e. the fan almost all printers have pointing in the vague direction of the nozzle) is only really necessary when you're doing a span over a void? Would it be better, if you were doing a part that had no spans - not even a flat top - to just turn it off and let the part cool slower? My thinking is that you'd get more heat transfer to the layer below and so a better adhesion between layers, and also less potential for warping generally because the part as a whole will have cooled down more uniformly. More importantly does any slicer support doing this (i.e. only cooling when doing a span)? Or am I just overthinking this and it doesn't really make that much difference?
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Dec 18, 2021 12:01
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No, cooling is still important even if there are no bridges because the plastic doesn't solidify instantly. Hot plastic can sag and compress under its own weight, leading to squashed layers, and if your part is small enough that the nozzle comes back over a given area while it's still soft, the effect will be multiplied. Cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle is usually necessary to keep the extruded trace exactly where it's meant to be -- depending on the specific characteristics of the polymer you're using, though. You're correct about the effect on strength, though. Slower cooling generally means better layer fusion and a stronger part. By adjusting the extrusion temperature and fan flow, there is a certain amount of trading off you can do between the crispness of your part and its mechanical strength. E: and yes, I believe prusaslicer will let you disable the fan everywhere except bridges with some combination in the cooling settings. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 12:22 on Dec 18, 2021 |
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Dec 18, 2021 12:12
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Idle thought, but surely part cooling (i.e. the fan almost all printers have pointing in the vague direction of the nozzle) is only really necessary when you're doing a span over a void? Would it be better, if you were doing a part that had no spans - not even a flat top - to just turn it off and let the part cool slower? My thinking is that you'd get more heat transfer to the layer below and so a better adhesion between layers, and also less potential for warping generally because the part as a whole will have cooled down more uniformly. More importantly does any slicer support doing this (i.e. only cooling when doing a span)? Its been said, but its also important on small areas the nozzle stays over (think the smoke stack on a benchy) it needs cooling to prevent just the proximity of the nozzle making it a melty mess.
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Dec 18, 2021 16:23
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Roundboy posted:Its been said, but its also important on small areas the nozzle stays over (think the smoke stack on a benchy) it needs cooling to prevent just the proximity of the nozzle making it a melty mess. Yeah especially for PLA you want the plastic solidifying almost as soon as it leaves the nozzle, an aggressive part cooling fan gives better prints. For ABS you want it toned down to get better layer adhesion and less warping. Slicer pre-sets usually have good starting points for the different materials.
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Dec 18, 2021 18:35
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jeff8472 posted:Are there any bright silver PLA filaments? They all seem to be fairly dark grey. Fillamentum’s Extrafill PLA has a “Repunzle Silver” which has a pretty nice smooth finish and a bit of sparkle to it. Ive printed some parts with it and olan on doing a UFO model with it sometime soon. Heres some pics:    They also have a metallic grey that may interest you.
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Dec 18, 2021 19:16
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Anyone had any experience printing costume armour? I've never done cosplay in the past, but after running out of practical things to print on my printer, for some reason at 36 years old I've got it in my head that I want a wearable master chief outfit that would mostly be used as a mannequin display. Curious as to any advice people might have before I start churning through the filament. I printed a stormtrooper helmet earlier in the year which looks cool but I don't know about its structural integrity.
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Dec 18, 2021 21:33
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I find that CHT nozzle interesting. While I don't really print at high-flow speeds (yet), I found what CNC Kitchen showed interesting, that the material starts building up internal stressed because of polymer chains something something, something which high-flow nozzles seem to reduce due to extended heating. Including that CHT, which is pretty compact, considering. I wonder if it helps with printing by reducing said stresses, that also seem to cause warping and additional shrinkage.
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Dec 18, 2021 21:44
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Isometric Bacon posted:Anyone had any experience printing costume armour? I don't do it seriously, and haven't made anything for myself that I can show off, the only advice I'd give is perimeters equals durability, and don't be afraid to up your nozzle size for fewer thicker layers. You're going to be post processing all the same, so go for speed and strength.
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Dec 18, 2021 21:45
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A 36-year-old doesn’t need a master chief outfit.
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Dec 19, 2021 01:11
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withak posted:A 36-year-old doesn’t need a master chief outfit. drat, no need to kinkshame. Bacon, make the costume. Do iiit I tried to make some drawer sliders.      I added some electrical tape on the rollers for improved traction. They don't really work very well, but I'm burning to make another revision and see what happens. Cory Parsnipson fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Dec 19, 2021 |
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Dec 19, 2021 01:35
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The trick probably is to use proper bearings.
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Dec 19, 2021 01:58
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I was having trouble finding bearings that wouldn't make the design bigger than I wanted. I thought about trying something involving airsoft pellets. The PLA is smooth enough to slide across itself extremely easily, so I might be able to get away with just making a telescoping slider and avoid a lot of the complexity involved with adding the rollers. The drawer can't fail if I don't use it too much.  I did try out this 3d printable 608 bearing and it actually spins. It's terrible, but at the same time very cool. 
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Dec 19, 2021 02:42
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I found a $25 Amazon gift card laying around when I was cleaning some poo poo up, it was still good. Just ordered some rainbow filament for a giant slug. I printed the original a while back because I love slugs, but I feel the need for a giant one.
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Dec 19, 2021 02:48
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Maybe if you packed it with enough grease that plastic never actually touches plastic? edit: The bearing, not the rainbow slug.
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Dec 19, 2021 02:48
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Ooh, that's interesting. What kind of grease should I use? White lithium? I know nothing about cars. e. Ok so I googled it and looks like white lithium grease might not have been the best. I tried it anyway, and it doesn't really help that much by itself, but I covered both tracks with electrical tape and I can get the wheels to spin when the slider is under load. Also I realized that I could pick up nylon rollers with ball bearings inside them at home depot pretty cheap. And for anyone wondering, drawer sliders go for $6 ee. Nice vv; looks great Cory Parsnipson fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Dec 19, 2021 |
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Dec 19, 2021 02:52
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Babby first prints  If I want to go to microcenter and get a microswiss mk8 0.8 nozzle, I assume it's a decent quality? I don't feel like trying to get anything shipped right now, and I want to print faster
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Dec 19, 2021 04:29
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MicroSwiss is one of the better third party brands. You'll pay for it, but I've never been unhappy with them. How hard are you pushing your current nozzle? A V6 @ 0.4 can pretty reliably do 13mm^3/s.
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Dec 19, 2021 04:39
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Hi, would anyone be willing to print this one piece? Like 20% infill out of some water resistant material, preferably black but any color will work really https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5168474/files
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Dec 19, 2021 04:43
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Vaporware posted:If I want to go to microcenter and get a microswiss mk8 0.8 nozzle, I assume it's a decent quality? I don't feel like trying to get anything shipped right now, and I want to print faster Try 0.6 first.. using the area of a circle calculation, 0.4 is 0.50mm^2 and 0.6 is 1.13mm^2, ie. more than double. 0.8 is 2.0mm^2, quadruple the hole size. Haven't heard complaints about microswiss quality, just the price
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Dec 19, 2021 04:45
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