|
Current settings are the default Prusa 0.2 Quality. It's peppy, I just want an excuse to make bigger things. I wouldn't say I need it, but I got a roll of PVB and wanted to play with translucent PVB vases, which would benefit from the fat bead. edit: sure 0.6 works too, I figured I'd end up with a variety of sizes eventually.
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 04:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 19:54 |
|
|
withak posted:A 36-year-old doesn’t need a master chief outfit. lol. Of course not. I don't need a 3D printer, sports cars or gaming consoles either. But I've run out of functionally useful products and useless knick knacks to print, and am craving a new challenge for this hobby. Speaking of useless geeky hobbies and knick knacks, one thing I've been doing lately is seeing if I can print the original geometry from old videogames. Here's a few I've done with my multi-material printer recently:  Mario from Mario64, with sticker textures.   The Taxi from Crazy Taxi  Tony from Tony Hawk's Pro Skater 2  Raz from Psychonauts 1 (painted)
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 05:50
|
|
|
Google Butt posted:Hi, would anyone be willing to print this one piece? Like 20% infill out of some water resistant material, preferably black but any color will work really What do you mean by 'water resistant'? There's a very wide range of that in plastics. I can probably do this though 
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 06:32
|
|
|
Roundboy posted:Prints are actually that color ? Because I have rolls of stuff that shiny, but it doesnt print that way. The sunlu i recommended before was because i saw actual prints of it Whoops I never came back and posted it! The main body of the gun is from a sparkly silver sorta PLA, the chamber is done in the silk silver I linked 
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 06:39
|
|
|
insta posted:What do you mean by 'water resistant'? There's a very wide range of that in plastics. I can probably do this though Waterproof would be ideal, it's going to be exposed to a bit of water on occasion and humidity, but not submerged. I don't know enough about filament to have a real preference. It would be helpful if it can be sanded, but not a requirement. I'm going to end up using some of that "hammered" bronze spray paint on it which is pretty thick and should probably conceal the texture.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 07:36
|
|
|
Google Butt posted:Waterproof would be ideal, it's going to be exposed to a bit of water on occasion and humidity, but not submerged. I don't know enough about filament to have a real preference. They'll pretty much all handle "some water" with zero issue. A much bigger concern is exposure to constant sunlight. If they were underwater like an aquarium, some plastics might leech. If they're in a shower, you may want higher temp resistance, etc. Some plastics can be used in direct, prolonged contact with low-temperature steam. Some can handle boiling brake fluid. If it's a one-off part the size of a dinner-plate or smaller, you can probably get it printed for free (or drat near it) at the library in a good enough plastic.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 10:28
|
|
|
Cory Parsnipson posted:drat, no need to kinkshame. Bacon, make the costume. Do iiit I know you've already found some bearings to do it, but the much cheaper version would have been to just have the runners slide against each other and coat them with candle wax. That's how wooden drawers worked for centuries before bearings got cheap enough to use them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 10:52
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:I know you've already found some bearings to do it, but the much cheaper version would have been to just have the runners slide against each other and coat them with candle wax. That's how wooden drawers worked for centuries before bearings got cheap enough to use them. Yeah, I kind of realized that just having rails sliding against each other was probably what I should have made. There'd be no moving parts and I could get the under-drawer clearance to be extremely small. I found that the PLA prints are actually so slippery that I could even do it without using lube. Just raw doggin it like it's 1870. Trying to copy the nylon roller and metal design is probably going to yield something that can't support very much weight.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 11:40
|
|
|
insta posted:They'll pretty much all handle "some water" with zero issue. A much bigger concern is exposure to constant sunlight. If they were underwater like an aquarium, some plastics might leech. If they're in a shower, you may want higher temp resistance, etc. Some plastics can be used in direct, prolonged contact with low-temperature steam. Some can handle boiling brake fluid. If it's a one-off part the size of a dinner-plate or smaller, you can probably get it printed for free (or drat near it) at the library in a good enough plastic. I see. The use case is adapting this reef aquarium light to a larger jar, for reference: https://www.reefsmart.com/
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 11:52
|
|
|
Vaporware posted:Babby first prints Just a heads up that MK8 nozzles will not work on the hotends Prusa uses. They have different threads than the ones used by E3D (which is what Prusa uses as the basis for their hotend design). MK8 would be for your Creality and Monoprice machines.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 14:51
|
|
|
I just found out about the upcoming Revo from E3D. Gimme now!
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 15:06
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Just a heads up that MK8 nozzles will not work on the hotends Prusa uses. They have different threads than the ones used by E3D (which is what Prusa uses as the basis for their hotend design). Thanks, I couldn't find that on their website.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 17:06
|
|
|
Cory Parsnipson posted:Yeah, I kind of realized that just having rails sliding against each other was probably what I should have made. There'd be no moving parts and I could get the under-drawer clearance to be extremely small. I found that the PLA prints are actually so slippery that I could even do it without using lube. Just raw doggin it like it's 1870. Trying to copy the nylon roller and metal design is probably going to yield something that can't support very much weight. You could also try something like minwax or similar which is what i used on homemade drawers without rails, just wood on wood i have done zero research to see if it will eat PLA though. The absurdly large slug has proven very popular. I am going to put on my spool of copper color fillament and see exactly how big i can print it. just as soon as i get a decent missle toad out. The only downside is that the copper color is shinny on the roll, but rather dull when printed. I wonder if i can buff it?
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 17:16
|
|
|
Roundboy posted:You could also try something like minwax or similar which is what i used on homemade drawers without rails, just wood on wood I've found that carnauba wax polish (you can get it under multiple brand names at any car parts place) does an excellent job of shining up PLA as long as your layer lines aren't too prominent (it can build up as a white residue in there). Normal spray furniture polish works pretty well too. I'm always tempted to try a proper sand-and-polish job to see just how perfect a finish I can get (probably not *that* great as PLA seems to roughen up when sanded) but generally the decorative stuff I've done is too complex a shape to make this worthwhile (at least within my limited attention span). Watered-down PLA as a filling primer, with acrylic paint over the top, does give a really nice shiny surface though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 17:35
|
|
|
PLA doesn't sand particularly well. It can be done but it isn't super nice. You can sand it roughly to smooth out the lines, spray on some filler primer, and sand that down instead. PETG and ABS both sand much more nicely and will take a high-gloss polish if you do it properly.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 18:01
|
|
|
I just spent the better part of an hour tearing my hair out at a print that just did *not* want to stick in one corner - triple-checked leveling, tried everything from no heating on the bed to 70 degrees, lowered the Z offset until the filament was almost welded to the bed elsewhere... then noticed the loving great thumb print exactly where it was lifting. I'd actually washed the sheet just before starting this print - I tend to do it before starting a big job just in case - but apparently hadn't been careful enough when putting it back on. Remember kids - *always* check the simple stupid stuff first, no matter how certain you are that it's not that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 21:54
|
|
|
Another quick question; since my exhaust fan is a little weak the room I have the printer in is getting a bit stinky. Luckily it's only that room, but I'd like to be able to work on stuff in the same room without the strong smell. I was wondering if I could throw a plastic bag and/or cardboard box over the printer while its operating to help "contain" the smell a little? Googling only gives me advice on FDM printers, not the SLA that I have. I can't imagine that making it enclosed would cause any issues, but I figured I'd ask first.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2021 23:41
|
|
|
Fashionable Jorts posted:Another quick question; since my exhaust fan is a little weak the room I have the printer in is getting a bit stinky. Luckily it's only that room, but I'd like to be able to work on stuff in the same room without the strong smell. People put resin printers in enclosures all the time.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 00:31
|
|
|
Fashionable Jorts posted:Another quick question; since my exhaust fan is a little weak the room I have the printer in is getting a bit stinky. Luckily it's only that room, but I'd like to be able to work on stuff in the same room without the strong smell. That's what I do.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 00:42
|
|
|
There might be an outside chance of the printer electronics overheating if your bag covers the electronics cooling fan (depending on where that is on your given machine), but other than that all you're doing by putting the resin printer in an enclosure is concentrating the emissions you smell into a tighter space. Just make sure you wear a mask/don't inhale the air you release when you open it up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 02:22
|
|
|
Thanks for the help. I was 90% sure it was fine, but I couldn't find specific confirmation that it was safe for this type of printer.biracial bear for uncut posted:There might be an outside chance of the printer electronics overheating if your bag covers the electronics cooling fan (depending on where that is on your given machine), but other than that all you're doing by putting the resin printer in an enclosure is concentrating the emissions you smell into a tighter space. It's a bit on the cooler side in the basement I have it set up in so I doubt I have to worry about overheating, I appreciate the heads up though. I'll wearing a mask the whole time when in the room, no matter how effective covering the printer with a plastic bag is lol
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 02:27
|
|
|
Sorry if this has been asked before but what resin printers would you guys recommend for around 500? So far the Elegoo Saturn is my top pick followed by the Anycubic Mono X. Both around 500 and both pretty similar by most accounts. Saturn seems superior in build quality and Mono X seems *slightly* larger but possibly inferior in build quality. Anyone have any strong feelings about this? There are so many others... like the cheaper Longer Orange or even the Voxelabs... ALL of them seem a lot cheaper than the Formlabs stuff which I am guessing they copied the design from. Who has a strong opinion for getting a high resolution resin printer? Explicitly for printing 3d characters. Ideally I would like to print full size busts but I think those printers would be WAAAY out of my price range and I have limited desktop space for the thing so...
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 22:46
|
|
|
sigma 6 posted:Who has a strong opinion for getting a high resolution resin printer? lol literally no one. They're all pretty much identical. Grab the saturn, have fun.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 22:54
|
|
|
It's all about the size of stuff you wanna print. If the mono has the room and the Saturn doesn't, grab the mono. If it doesn't matter, flip a coin. I've heard good and bad things about both. I have a Saturn and a mono x. Haven't tried printing with the mono x yet though. Saturn has been a breeze.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 23:20
|
|
|
The brand you buy is much less relevant than where you buy from. As some people have pointed out, sometimes you get a bad unit and need to return it, so buy from somebody with a decent return policy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 23:26
|
|
|
In terms of the medium-sized printers (since there are some positively ginormous ones coming out lately), I've used both the Elegoo Saturn and the Phrozen Sonic Mighty with zero issues thus far, so I have no problems recommending either.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 00:06
|
|
|
For what it's worth, elegoos customer service has been great the 4 or so times I've had something major gently caress up between my printers
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 00:28
|
|
|
 Corners warping on PETG? I'm printing on the satin plate using the pre-prepared gcode for the lack table. No glue stick. adhesion failure? or uneven cooling leading to adhesion failure? I couldn't have done that by accident when I removed it from the plate, right? It was a 22 hr print so I didn't have the patience to check up on it very often.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 04:21
|
|
|
Thanks guys! I think I am going to go with the Saturn and wish I could afford the Jupiter.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 04:32
|
|
|
I made version 2!    Greased and taped up.  I put a little bit of weight on it and heard a snap and then found that one of the axels on the top sliders cracked.  I need to decide between buying drawer sliders from home depot and figure out how to mount them to the bottom surface or make friction sliders instead. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 04:39
|
|
|
Vaporware posted:
PETG does this a ton for me. I pretty much print only large PETG boxes so I got this all the time. On the textured sheet, here's how I fixed it: -Cleaned sheet thoroughly with plain dish detergent and warm water. -Wiped down with 99% IPA to get any water residue or anything else off and get it dry before the water had a chance to gently caress anything up. -Sanded lightly with relatively fine sandpaper, maybe 300-400 grit, in circles all over the sheet (this may not be good for satin). -Dried filament in food dehydrator overnight. -Adjusted live-z using an appropriate test print (prusa built-in only works for 0.4mm nozzles and I run 0.6mm). -Printed torture tests which were L-shaped prints across the whole L+W of bed with an upside down "T" cross section. This pretty much fixed it. As needed: -Lowered bed temp for layers after first layer slightly for particularly offending brands of filament, I think the first layers were staying too soft to adhere well. -Used brim on prints where any removal scars (PETG is soft!) would not be obvious, or particularly huge prints that would be worth the careful removal.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 04:46
|
|
|
sigma 6 posted:
For what it's worth, the formlabs printers use a very different design. The elegoo and anycubic (and essentially everyone else) use a lcd screen to mask out a uv light source and expose an entire layer at a time. The form labs printers use galvanometers to bounce a laser around to move a dot to cure where it hits. The form 3 also moves the laser itself. Because of this resins for the form labs often don't work in other printers, as well as the other way round. The laser has a much higher energy density, so the resins are designed to cure very quickly as the laser moves over it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 05:13
|
|
|
Wang Commander posted:
Thanks, I'll give this a try. Yeah, I haven't yet read any recommendations on sanding the satin sheet yet, but I can definitely do more testing to see if the default print temps are just too hot.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 13:02
|
|
|
Cory Parsnipson posted:I made version 2! Try printing them rotated 90 degrees, so the layer lines are running parallel to the axis of the axle rather than perpendicular. The layer lines are always the weak point, so you should always try and plan the printing to get round this.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 13:27
|
|
|
If you fix the problem with the axle you're going to introduce problems in the rail. I think the orientation is fine for the rails, the axle needs to be a separate insert/pin printed in a different direction. Although the forces are more distributed on the rail, you get point loads moving across where the sliding back of the drawer lands. To avoid cracking, you can't have the print lines anything other than parallel to the path of the rail.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 13:48
|
|
|
I'm thinking you may need to take a look at the rails you can buy at the local hardware store and adjust your design to mimick those more closely. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-12-in-Self-Closing-Bottom-Mount-Drawer-Slide-1-Pair-2-Pieces-D68812C-W-TX/202200633 Depending on how much time you want to spend replicating something that costs less than $10.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 14:09
|
|
|
Cory Parsnipson posted:I made version 2! I've not tried this but I would imagine for a friction slider, if you orient the parts on the bed so the layer lines are parallel on top and bottom, it would slide a whole lot more smoothly than if they are perpendicular. I also think making the rollers out of plastic isn't really going to work. Maybe buy some cheapish model car 'rubbery' tires and put those on the axels?
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 15:01
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:I've not tried this but I would imagine for a friction slider, if you orient the parts on the bed so the layer lines are parallel on top and bottom, it would slide a whole lot more smoothly than if they are perpendicular. Something like this plus grooves for them to roll in, maybe: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4940314
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 15:17
|
|
|
 Glorious Rainbow Slug is at 25%, this thing is going to be fabulous.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 17:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 19:54 |
|
|
Enos Shenk posted:I found a $25 Amazon gift card laying around when I was cleaning some poo poo up, it was still good. Just ordered some rainbow filament for a giant slug. I printed the original a while back because I love slugs, but I feel the need for a giant one. Link to the spool? Last time I bought some "rainbow" filament the sections between color changes were so long I never really got a good "rainbow" print out of it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 17:38
|
|