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I can't speak for Ender 3 but I have a Prusa and had to put it together and I learned so much from that process that helped immensely the bunch of times I've had to pull it apart to fix things... Since it was my first printer If I'd inherited it or bought one fully built I'm not sure i'd be as confident pulling it to pieces, particularly as I'm not traditionally much of a DIY guy. If its got a bunch of mods and you aren't familiar with it it might be more difficult to diagnose issues? Or it could be that everyone has those mods and easy to get help. So just another thing to factor in.
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Dec 23, 2021 10:15
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My prusa mini is working overtime making little add-on gifts for people. Doing a run of dino clips and dragon clips, Just need to zap them with the hot-air gun to remove the stringing now.
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Dec 23, 2021 12:02
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E3D Revo preorders are up. https://e3d-online.com/collections/revo A bit pricy. Expected to ship Q1 22. I am really eager to try out the quick changing nozzles. I basically never change nozzles on my v6 right now because I hate dealing with it.
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Dec 23, 2021 12:06
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:I am really eager to try out the quick changing nozzles. I basically never change nozzles on my v6 right now because I hate dealing with it.
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Dec 23, 2021 12:21
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Spending the last 10 minutes of a print, staring at it, considering hot swapping the filament: When the print was done:  Weight your filament before a 12 hour print imo.
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Dec 23, 2021 16:54
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That's just called perfect planning
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Dec 23, 2021 16:58
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Well, Prusa said not to expect my Mini to even ship until January, but I now have a stack of filament and spare parts in my living room and the printer itself is purportedly on a truck en route to my house I should get the octoprint server set up, I wasn't expecting to need that yet!
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Dec 23, 2021 17:18
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Do you need the Octoprint server? I haven't used one for my Mini yet and haven't seen a reason to. It's not like I have to actively monitor whatever I'm printing or anything. If the first layer sticks I go do something else until the expected print time is done.
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Dec 23, 2021 17:30
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Octopi is just one of those nice-to-have things, bonus points for another excuse to tinker. If you have a spare Pi laying around I say go for it. I find it useful, personally. No more jockeying SD cards around, and no more scrolling though tiny menus to find the one file you want to print from file name alone. Bonus points for remote monitoring - I have a camera set up on mine, along with the VPN set up on my network I can take a peek whenever and wherever.
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Dec 23, 2021 17:50
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I understand the benefits and have a couple set up on my other printers, I just haven't bothered with actually *using* any of the features other than the remote file uploading to the Pi (and whenever I'm doing stuff with the Mini I'm usually physically walking from my house to my shop building anyway to swap build plates or whatever).
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Dec 23, 2021 17:59
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Serenade posted:Spending the last 10 minutes of a print, staring at it, considering hot swapping the filament: Something touching the lead screw is giving me anxiety.
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Dec 23, 2021 18:07
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 Ooooh yeah!
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Dec 23, 2021 18:13
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Enos Shenk posted:
 And I got my shipping notice for the Phrozen DLP 8k printer!! 
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Dec 23, 2021 18:36
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Enos Shenk posted:
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Dec 23, 2021 18:47
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I understand the benefits and have a couple set up on my other printers, I just haven't bothered with actually *using* any of the features other than the remote file uploading to the Pi (and whenever I'm doing stuff with the Mini I'm usually physically walking from my house to my shop building anyway to swap build plates or whatever). webcams (especially if you sign up for Spaghetti Detective) bed level visualization remote upload push notifications from Spaghetti Detective flashing new firmware timelapses if that's your thing the level of convenience between my FDM printers and my SLA printers is immense.
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Dec 23, 2021 18:51
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I have my printer out in the garage and honestly it's a godsend, not having to go out there constantly to check if everything is working ok, or whether the print I just sent through actually started. The MMU2S is a temperamental bitch though, do I probably need to check it more than the average user
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Dec 23, 2021 20:30
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Isometric Bacon posted:I have my printer out in the garage and honestly it's a godsend, not having to go out there constantly to check if everything is working ok, or whether the print I just sent through actually started. I'm tempted to set up a webcam next to my printer so I can peek at it without having to get up lol
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Dec 23, 2021 20:36
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I'm liking fluiddPi vs octopi. I guess I would like spaghettis detective, but the pause alone has been awesome in changing filament on the fly. The interface is cleaner, and z level changes are working. Agree with the above on dumping SD cards and printing from the network, and when i want to run a bunch of articulated slugs, its nice having the gcode reprint with a button press.
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Dec 23, 2021 20:46
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Isometric Bacon posted:The MMU2S is a temperamental bitch though, do I probably need to check it more than the average user   mmu bro
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Dec 23, 2021 21:10
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 I think I finally got everything dialed in. It doesn't hurt the weather is bone dry, tho Now to change things!
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Dec 23, 2021 22:01
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Doctor Zero posted:
OMG. That looks amazing!
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Dec 23, 2021 23:23
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Ran out of the copper on the last one (the kids broke) so I had to switch. Caught it just as the last bit was entering the extruder. If i had more i would have liked just the top layers blue but these look really cool in complementary silk pla colors 
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Dec 24, 2021 01:37
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Is there a dummies guide to what to play with when you want to print faster/start messing with slicer settings? Obviously you need a bigger nozzle to really lay down plastic faster. But if you want to test how fast you can go with a filament and printer combo, whats the best calibration routine? I'm fine with watching some youtube or reading a blog if this is a dumb question, but I don't know who has good info?
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Dec 24, 2021 02:52
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 It's alive! Initial calibration went really smoothly, now I have it printing out a calicat for dimensional accuracy checks before I start printing actual parts for things. After that my first project is going to be printing out the rest of my daughter's cuttlefish, then probably swap to PETG and print out some upgrades for the printer itself. biracial bear for uncut posted:Do you need the Octoprint server? I haven't used one for my Mini yet and haven't seen a reason to. I mean, I don't need it, but as others have pointed out it's just more convenient to be able to slice a thing on my laptop and click "go" rather than physically moving around data like it's 1992. And it's also nice to be able to check on the print remotely, although that will need some additional hardware because the USB webcam I was using for that previously has been scavenged for telecommuting in plague year. And I already had a spare Rpi2 lying around, I just hadn't gotten around to reinstalling octopi on it. Enos Shenk posted:
Hooooooly poo poo I need one of these in my life
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Dec 24, 2021 03:24
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Vaporware posted:Is there a dummies guide to what to play with when you want to print faster/start messing with slicer settings? Look up klipper, it's really the only way to go besides just cranking up print speeds and extrusion rate on your printer. You can get away without it, but you can use something like super slicer to crank up acceleration, but klipper can use methods to stop the ringing and other artifacts you pick up besides that you can play with travel speeds, which will speed up an overall print time, then move to infill speed, etc. Basically up the speed on things nobody will see Stock hotend put out laughably small plastic, barely keeping up with stock speeds on a . 4 nozzle. You are correct that simply going to . 6 if your hotend can push it will do a lot for you Be careful, there is a fine line between printing faster and quality, or having the printer print for x hours, or the printer being offline for x hours because you flew too close to the sun and broke something going fast
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Dec 24, 2021 04:26
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Fashionable Jorts posted:I'm tempted to set up a webcam next to my printer so I can peek at it without having to get up lol do it! I have a security cam I can pan and zoom in my workshop and I can see if stuff is failing / done / on fire. It's great!
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Dec 24, 2021 16:03
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anyone have a link to a good model for a drill bit organization tray system? All of the ones I can find on thingiverse are badly designed messes with thick walls
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Dec 24, 2021 16:09
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Roundboy posted:Be careful, there is a fine line between printing faster and quality Got it. I will start reading more. The downside of getting a it-just-works prusa is that it works well enough out of the box, so I don't know much outside the walled garden of built in settings, so far. Oh and I was gifted a CHT 0.4 nozzle for Christmas, but I'm scared to put it on without knowing how to use it. Even reading up on changing nozzles makes me nervous, lol.
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Dec 24, 2021 20:20
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Vaporware posted:Oh and I was gifted a CHT 0.4 nozzle for Christmas, but I'm scared to put it on without knowing how to use it. Even reading up on changing nozzles makes me nervous, lol. --edit: That said, ramping up speeds only does so much, if you're at low accelerations. I recently started to increase speeds, bumping perimeters by 33% and infill by 50% resulted in around 9-10% time savings, and I'm at 4500mm/s² (half of that on small features, a Klipper thing). Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Dec 24, 2021 |
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Dec 24, 2021 20:30
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Vaporware posted:Got it. I will start reading more. The downside of getting a it-just-works prusa is that it works well enough out of the box, so I don't know much outside the walled garden of built in settings, so far. Its fine once you understand where it goes sideways. A gap between the top of the nozzle and the PTFE tube will eventually cause problems. Also heating /expansion is why you dont cold tighten it, but do it warmed up. using prussiaslicer you should have the option to increase the specific speeds for various operations.. From different sources you can try in order : Setting the travel speed to an absurd number, and the printer will go as fast as allowed in firmware. you want the nozzle to go from a to b when its not extruding as fast as possible Set infill speed up. So long as your extruder isnt skipping, and material is adhering to the previous layer. it doesnt have to look pretty. Z speed up. You can hop up to the next layer quickly, same as travel settings. Play with it because this is kinda like a retraction setting. Outer wall / parameter is the visual aspect. this is most sensitive to speed tuning. Almost equal with top/bottom layer speed.
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Dec 24, 2021 20:35
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so Im dealing with a really annoying issue at the moment. I have 2 elegoo saturn printers running the same blend of resin. the 1st printer seems to work great, but the second is having issues where the supports arent generating or are generating but not connecting to the model. Is it possible the 2 machines have different exposure settings etc? not exactly sure whats going on here, and Im starting to wondering if the new fep material I bought is maybe the culprit.
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Dec 24, 2021 20:49
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w00tmonger posted:so Im dealing with a really annoying issue at the moment. I have 2 elegoo saturn printers running the same blend of resin. One problem that stumped me completely was a loose FEP, where models in the middle just wouldn't print other than base layers and a few supports. Are you getting anything printing on that printer?
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Dec 24, 2021 21:18
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InternetJunky posted:One problem that stumped me completely was a loose FEP, where models in the middle just wouldn't print other than base layers and a few supports. Are you getting anything printing on that printer? currently not really and I just swapped the fep. properly tightened etc as far as I can tell. maybe I did somehting wrong though as that does make sense. rerunning exposure tests to confirm I have some new elegoo nfeps coming in middle of next week but some maniacs made big orders I was going to try and crank out before then...
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Dec 24, 2021 21:58
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Vaporware posted:Got it. I will start reading more. The downside of getting a it-just-works prusa is that it works well enough out of the box, so I don't know much outside the walled garden of built in settings, so far. Nothing really changes about how you use the printer, although I found I had to lower my print temperatures, to even values that seem nuts. eSun ABSmax at 215 degrees! A Microswiss setup I also print ABS on routinely needs 235-240 degrees with the same filament. The resulting parts are strong, neat as gently caress, and there is very little ooze even with the 0.6mm nozzle. Whatever is going on internally it's transferring heat into the filament that much more efficiently. Only downside I've seen so far is that the nozzle can get some material build up over time, but my fingernail removes it when cool.
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Dec 24, 2021 22:39
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That's pretty wild to print ABS that low. Makes me want to try that too! Unfortunately my ABS is glow, so I need to wait for a hardened nozzle to show up, or go get one without a fill. only another hour left on my lack enclosure until I can swap out for the CHT.
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Dec 24, 2021 23:19
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As soon as there's a Revo - compatible tungsten carbide nozzle I'll probably make the switch. (based on some of the reviews it sounds like that's in the works.) I use too many abrasive filaments on a regular basis to justify a system that doesn't have a high-wear nozzle but I imagine by the time they do exist there will be a solidly-refined bunch of Voron mounting setups from which to choose.
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Dec 24, 2021 23:47
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w00tmonger posted:currently not really and I just swapped the fep. properly tightened etc as far as I can tell. maybe I did somehting wrong though as that does make sense. rerunning exposure tests to confirm Same models with different results? I was going to suggest looking at firmware revisions but Occam’s razor and all - probably be the FEPs. My Phrozen Mini 4k started giving me grief which it never has before. I was stumped until I realized it started after I changed the FEP so I probably did something wrong. Going to change it this weekend to see if that’s it.
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Dec 25, 2021 00:11
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Wanderless posted:As soon as there's a Revo - compatible tungsten carbide nozzle I'll probably make the switch. (based on some of the reviews it sounds like that's in the works.) I use too many abrasive filaments on a regular basis to justify a system that doesn't have a high-wear nozzle but I imagine by the time they do exist there will be a solidly-refined bunch of Voron mounting setups from which to choose. Also, there's a beta version of the new Stealthburner print head for the larger Vorons out. It includes a mount for the Revo micro.
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Dec 25, 2021 00:31
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w00tmonger posted:currently not really and I just swapped the fep. properly tightened etc as far as I can tell. maybe I did somehting wrong though as that does make sense. rerunning exposure tests to confirm I guess it's worth asking -- any chance your new FEP still has a protective film on one side of it?
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Dec 25, 2021 00:32
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Printed off a calibration cat to do some dimensional accuracy checks and now I can't find my calipers  It looks pretty close based on eyeballing it with a ruler but when the part is 5-10mm wide it's hard to assess by eye
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Dec 25, 2021 00:34
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