|
Sagebrush posted:Why does Creality not simply clone the MK3S exactly? It would be a lovely move, but all the parts are up in their site for free download, and surely they could do it for much less than 750 dollars since they aren't spending any money on R&D. That would sure shut up all us Prusa people. Many companies did. They don't anymore, instead having newer designs on sale. Beyond that, there is no answer to your question that does not invoke the religious zeal of the faithful.
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 02:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 23:38 |
|
|
You're thinking of the MK1 and MK2, but yes. If anybody has cloned the MK3S with anything like a reasonable approximation of quality, somebody should have posted an Alibaba link by now or something.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 02:38
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:You're welcome! We all have/had to learn this stuff at some point, and we all know that the only two ways to learn are by either asking questions or breaking something really important. I'm glad I looked this thread up, lots of good information to gleam. I had just been watching youtube videos mostly to teach myself! Lately, I've also had an issue with the generic raspi cam I got for octoprint. I can't seem to get it to run anything higher than 480p without serious lag. I'm starting to think it's just the camera: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203627947735?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 The lens probably isn't a huge help for this application either. I've tried messing with so many settings in octopi.txt and have given up and just set it on 5fps to reduce network load. Using with a raspi4. Tempted to buy this 10 dollar arducam that's on amazon. What cameras are you guys using and is anyone able to get a 1080 or 720 stream working over wifi, or is that too taxing on most routers?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 02:50
|
|
|
Ethics_Gradient posted:Hmm, so I went into the auto leveling function - there's something called "BabyStep" that incrementally lets you raise/lower the printer head. I did this and got to -13.0mm before a piece of paper got pretty grabby, so entered -13.0mm into the Z offset function (also in the auto leveling menu). It kind of sounds to me like you need to readjust your Z endstop. -13mm offset seems really huge https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGGNlHkuLX4 Can't find the video I originally used I think it was from bv3d, but this should have the information if you're not familiar with the process. Oh right... you're using auto leveling so the z endstop is removed, my bad! Did you correctly set your probe offset too? Opinionated fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Dec 29, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 02:57
|
|
|
What's the easiest way to smooth out a petg print for spray painting? I really do not feel like sanding this thing flat, so some epoxy or filler primer I'm guessing?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 02:58
|
|
|
Google Butt posted:What's the easiest way to smooth out a petg print for spray painting? I really do not feel like sanding this thing flat, so some epoxy or filler primer I'm guessing? Pretty much. Maybe try your hand at careful passes with a heat gun until you get the result you want, but that can rapidly get out of hand if you soak too much heat in one spot.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 03:04
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Pretty much. I tried a heat gun on a scrap print and I.. don't trust myself lol. I saw a suggestion for this as well: 3M Acryl Putty, 05096, Green, 14.5 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BZOTQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_EN54S6T7TTFN48HJMWJH
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 03:10
|
|
|
oh yeah, you'd need to be an artisan with a heat gun to get PETG smooth. I managed to bend a pretty stout piece because it just soaked up the heat much faster than I expected. Maybe if you had a well controlled reflow heat gun? You could "sous vide" a piece just below the plastic melt temp and work it with a spatula?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 03:19
|
|
|
Sanding is the only way to do it. Sure, you can spray it with high-build primer or something, but you'll still be sanding that. The coatings like XTC-3D kinda work, but as a thick epoxy clearcoat, they change the part's dimensions fairly dramatically. Maybe that matters, maybe not. Heating the print's surface to melt it will not work. Too hard to control, too much diffusion. If you want effective easy print smoothing, you need to print in ABS and use acetone vapor techniques. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Dec 29, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 03:38
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Sanding is the only way to do it. Sure, you can spray it with high-build primer or something, but you'll still be sanding that. The coatings like XTC-3D kinda work, but as a thick epoxy clearcoat, they change the part's dimensions fairly dramatically. Maybe that matters, maybe not. From my quick testing, I think I'd greatly prefer sanding spot filler/primer to petg, it seems really.. hard. It's the outer face of my 10" ring, I'll see if I can find someone who can do that in abs as I do want to make a change.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 03:45
|
|
|
Google Butt posted:What's the easiest way to smooth out a petg print for spray painting? I really do not feel like sanding this thing flat, so some epoxy or filler primer I'm guessing? I saw a bunch of videos where people brush on resin and cure it. They were raving about the results although I haven't tried it myself. Failing that there's always that guy who ran resin through his airbrush to smooth out his prints.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 03:59
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:I saw a bunch of videos where people brush on resin and cure it. They were raving about the results although I haven't tried it myself. Yeah, don't do that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 04:17
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:Yeah, don't do that. Brushing on resin seemed to work pretty well though. I don't see a downside there if you're used to working with resin.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 04:36
|
|
|
A full resin dip seems like it would work really well too. Dip a big print in resin, hang it to drop the excess, cure, and repeat
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 04:42
|
|
|
where is the website that has all the ways a benchy can go wrong with its recommended settings. ? Trying to use up some old PETG (seems dry) and getting oddness i have never seen before :   I need to tune retraction but this looks like it lost its poo poo a few layers in .... part cooling kicking in? I have it set very low but maybe the 5010 makes it much more efficient ? It freaks me out i get poo poo layers, then i have whole sections smooth as butter. My calibration cube was excellent
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 04:52
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:You're thinking of the MK1 and MK2, but yes. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32963493248.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.8.6afa76ecUoW66H TriangleLab is pretty legit.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 04:54
|
|
|
Google Butt posted:What's the easiest way to smooth out a petg print for spray painting? I really do not feel like sanding this thing flat, so some epoxy or filler primer I'm guessing? Smoothing out FDM prints always sucks always forever always. Two coats of filler primer, a light sand, another coat of filler primer. If that isn't smooth enough, you're not gonna get it smooth.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 05:53
|
|
|
Sockser posted:Smoothing out FDM prints always sucks always forever always. Yeah I ordered a can and some smooth wood filler based on some stuff I googled, gonna try both on a piece of scrap and see how it goes
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 06:06
|
|
|
Minwax wood putty works very well on pla, you need about half as much hardener as the instructions say, at room temperature. Also it is much easier to sand in the first three hours. Don't let it cure indoors in an unventilated space (like your bedroom in the winter) it puts off a lot of fumes
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 06:08
|
|
|
Google Butt posted:Yeah I ordered a can and some smooth wood filler based on some stuff I googled, gonna try both on a piece of scrap and see how it goes There's also the paint-on XTC-3D epoxy, which works well enough.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 06:20
|
|
|
insta posted:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32963493248.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.8.6afa76ecUoW66H $400 for a kit plus $140 shipping to the US that doesn't include the main control board (per the listing description, which suggests you buy the control board from Prusa and mount it on the kit or sub in whatever board you want but you're on your own configuring firmware and mounting)? Might as well just buy it directly.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 11:39
|
|
|
Why aren't models distributed as step files per default? I really hate not being able to quickly reference a diameter or distance accurately sometimes. Is there an inherent advantage to distributing meshes instead?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 12:29
|
|
|
Most people just wanna slam that low poly pikachu straight onto their Ender 3 in as few steps as possible
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 12:32
|
|
|
Step files would require slicer developers to adopt a geometric kernel for conversion into polys. And these are considered voodoo code. --edit: Oh wait, Wikipedia says it's also triangle based. I guess I mixed it up with another actually parametric export format. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Dec 29, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 12:47
|
|
|
simmyb posted:Most people just wanna slam that low poly pikachu straight onto their Ender 3 in as few steps as possible This is factually incorrect, it was a prusa
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 14:09
|
|
|
is this where i get to come banging on my "STOP USING STLS AND START USING 3MFS" drum?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 15:54
|
|
|
Deviant posted:is this where i get to come banging on my "STOP USING STLS AND START USING 3MFS" drum? 
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 16:04
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:$400 for a kit plus $140 shipping to the US that doesn't include the main control board (per the listing description, which suggests you buy the control board from Prusa and mount it on the kit or sub in whatever board you want but you're on your own configuring firmware and mounting)?  I don't know the quality of the cloned Einsy, but the rest of the parts are going to be drat near 1:1 with Prusa's quality (if not from the same OEM -- RUNICE). I will grant that shipping's pretty steep (and I didn't catch that), but even then $600 shipped with the mainboard is cheaper than $800 shipped for the Prusa.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 16:17
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:--edit: Oh wait, Wikipedia says it's also triangle based. I guess I mixed it up with another actually parametric export format. what, no
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 16:41
|
|
|
Deviant posted:is this where i get to come banging on my "STOP USING STLS AND START USING 3MFS" drum? yes there are some people, not me of course  , who don't do research into these things outside of this thread.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 16:42
|
|
|
Hey all. Been printing about a year and a half or so on an ender 3 and had the hotend nozzle thread partially strip, enough to warrant a replacement. Ordered and replaced with another oem, wiring as well which was very straightforward. Once reassembled it emits the loudest, most constant alarm it can manage. Screen starts booting as normal, but that's about how far I get before I have to switch ot back off. All connections checked over with same results. It's not the thermal runaway alarm either, that one has a rapid ramp up to a constant tone. This one is just on from the start. Getting a lot of results linking it to a BSoD but I'm not having that. Any thoughts as to where I should start my investigation? Printer is basically stock with the exception of the extruder.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 17:25
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:Step files would require slicer developers to adopt a geometric kernel for conversion into polys. And these are considered voodoo code. No, STEP is a NURBS format. You are correct that it's vastly more complicated to process a NURBS model than a triangle mesh. And unless the slicer developer is going to try to implement some form of NURBS editing (which is far more complicated than just viewing the geometry), you're just going to immediately triangulate it for slicing anyway. So for most people the only advantage of importing STEP files is that they could choose the triangulation resolution, which doesn't give you any benefit over a properly exported STL. I agree that I would like STEP files of printable mechanical parts to be made available alongside the STLs, because it's much easier to do precision editing of the geometry if that is required. Also, just a comment on terminology: parametric modeling is the technique where everything in your design is driven by dimensions and relations. A STEP file contains mathematical spline-based geometry called NURBS surfaces. While most parametric modelers create NURBS surfaces, it's not a requirement that they do. SolidWorks, Creo, Unigraphics, Inventor, Fusion (in some modes) and CATIA are all parametric NURBS modelers. Rhino and Alias are freeform (non-parametric) NURBS modelers. Blender, 3ds Max, ZBrush, Cinema 4D, etc are all freeform polygon modelers. OpenSCAD is a parametric polygon modeler (and the only one I'm aware of).
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 17:48
|
|
|
Google Butt posted:I tried a heat gun on a scrap print and I.. don't trust myself lol. I saw a suggestion for this as well: 3M Acryl Putty, 05096, Green, 14.5 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BZOTQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_EN54S6T7TTFN48HJMWJH This stuff comes in three colors, green is the fastest setting with the lowest working time (white is the longest). They are all pretty "fast" though: green is 1.5 min working (15 dry) and white is 2.5 mins (20 or 25 dry) or something. So any of the three colors (green, red, white) is probably more or less the same -- but for 3d printing stuff I'd prefer more working time personally.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 19:18
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:I really hate not being able to quickly reference a diameter or distance accurately sometimes. I just want to say to anyone who doesn't know that Microsoft 3d builder has a really good "measure" tool that works on meshes after they are imported. It's easy to use, gives a live reading, and the measurement points snap to the mesh geometry for ease of use.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 19:24
|
|
|
Ugh, I thought I knew how to fix the lovely lines, but cleaning the z-spindle and the rails/rollers doesn't seem to work anymore. The lines next to the "A" seem like the printer isn't even trying any more  Any ideas? 
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 20:29
|
|
|
insta posted:
No, the listing linked does not include any mainboard whatsoever, and the cloned EINSY linked in that listing is marked out of stock with no re-stock date. You're paying $600 for a 3d printer kit without a brain and you'd have to pay another $120 for a not-knockoff one from Ultimachine or $80 + shipping for the rando Aliexpress listing that claims to be a clone of that board that I found with less than a minute of Google searching. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Dec 29, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 20:46
|
|
|
I found somebody who can print this 10-in ring and resin, in two parts. He'll split it, dowel and then assemble it before shipping. I figure even with a seam that it should be easier to paint and made to look nice in comparison to PETG, right?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 20:59
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:No, the listing linked does not include any mainboard whatsoever, and the cloned EINSY linked in that listing is marked out of stock with no re-stock date. Yeah, that's not worth it. You're better off starting with an Ender and upgrading that with linear rails, etc.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 21:11
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:Failing that there's always that guy who ran resin through his airbrush to smooth out his prints. LOL, no, I posted that here because it’s loving insane, don’t do this.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 21:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 23:38 |
|
|
I hosed around with painting resin onto prints to smooth them, it was really hard to get a uniform smooth finish (in other words, be a realistic alternative to sanding) but maybe there's a better technique for it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2021 21:44
|
|