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Anybody considering getting a voron kit, it was recommended to order from local US vendors vs aliexpress direct, and I can say today it paid itself off. Assembling the z motors, there is a shaft running through a few pullies and bearings, and the bearings were -really- god drat tight to the shaft. So much so I was looking to either sand it or grid it. Grinding is something i was looking at anyway since i need to put a flat on it for grub screws. After asking the vendor direct on discord what was up since i was told they should just slide right on, no huge force needed, they confirmed it was a overly tight set of pins and they offered to ship out replacements, and even ones already with a flat machined in them. Sure I can roll the dice for cheap on ali, but that would be weeks away These pins probably originated there in the first place, and someone is already making it right. Do your homework. Stay in school, etc, etc
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Jan 3, 2022 23:10
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This arrived at work in what will be my new area from 3D Systems today. standard travel coffee mug for scale.  I think primarily or only wax for this machine, but I'm excited for it to get setup. Projet MJP 2500W
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Jan 4, 2022 02:56
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Jan 4, 2022 03:04
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Roundboy posted:Anybody considering getting a voron kit, it was recommended to order from local US vendors vs aliexpress direct, and I can say today it paid itself off. kb3d or Fabreeko?
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Jan 4, 2022 03:54
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Droogie posted:This arrived at work in what will be my new area from 3D Systems today. We had a ProJet almost a decade ago--it made beautiful prints, and had a pretty decent workflow especially for the time. It used wax for its support material, which led to my favorite way of removing supports: A deep fryer. It got retired when one of the print heads went bad and the replacement would have been 2/3 the cost of an entire new machine.
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Jan 4, 2022 04:16
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insta posted:kb3d or Fabreeko? Fabreeko. A+++ would buy again from Hector. i have 2 people following my voron build and I constantly recommend fabreeko /kb3d / west3d / printedsolid. Speaking of kb3d, i hope that stuff gets here soon I'm glad i threw in some microswitches on my last order, cause it looks like amazon lost mine. Its just not in the big rear end box they shipped it in with other stuff
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Jan 4, 2022 05:50
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Wanderless posted:We had a ProJet almost a decade ago--it made beautiful prints, and had a pretty decent workflow especially for the time. It used wax for its support material, which led to my favorite way of removing supports: A deep fryer. They get used a lot in the jewellery industry because wax burns out so much easier than resin for casting. The reason people still opt for resin is exactly this, repairs and maintenance on wax based printers can get excessive.
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Jan 4, 2022 06:16
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So not a peep from Prusa on the XL since mid November Apparently they're always late on delivering preorders What's the goonsensus on when these things finally start shipping
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Jan 4, 2022 12:38
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Hadlock posted:So not a peep from Prusa on the XL since mid November If they don't post a "We're running behind, shipping is now X" post then they will start shipping on time, but they ship in a "first ordered, first shipped" sequence and they tend to always grossly underestimate how many people will place orders at the last minute for a given shipping deadline. They have historically been good about posting "If you ordered between W & X dates, your unit will ship between Y & Z dates" or "the first X orders places on Y date will ship by Z, the rest will ship..." posts, though. They do tend to do this on their blog rather than mass emails through their PO/Store system.
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Jan 4, 2022 12:41
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Hadlock posted:So not a peep from Prusa on the XL since mid November Did they promise an estimate by now?
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Jan 4, 2022 12:43
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Wibla posted:Did they promise an estimate by now? Not really. From the pre-order page: quote:Pre-order information: Original Prusa XL shipping is scheduled for Q2-Q3 2022. Reserve your place in line by paying the refundable deposit.
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Jan 4, 2022 12:46
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Do any of you have experience with fitting metal bearings "vertically" into printed parts? I have previously put bearings in, but only on the print plane where circles are basicaly perfect. I now have a design that requires quite a few bearings, but all of them are standing up. I would prefer to print the part upside down, with the arches closing midair, but that seems like a limiting factor right now. I can adjust my design to make the outside flat rather than curved to print it the other way around, however I still think the 'flat' at the top (now bottom) of the arches cuts too much into the bearing's outer diameter for good fitment. Is there some strategy to design around this limitation?
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Jan 4, 2022 16:35
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SEKCobra posted:Do any of you have experience with fitting metal bearings "vertically" into printed parts? I have previously put bearings in, but only on the print plane where circles are basicaly perfect. I now have a design that requires quite a few bearings, but all of them are standing up. I would prefer to print the part upside down, with the arches closing midair, but that seems like a limiting factor right now. I can adjust my design to make the outside flat rather than curved to print it the other way around, however I still think the 'flat' at the top (now bottom) of the arches cuts too much into the bearing's outer diameter for good fitment. If you had a drill press you could print the holes slightly small, drill them out and then press the bearings into place like you normally would. If the bearings could take the heat, you could also try installing them the same way people install heated thread inserts.
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Jan 4, 2022 17:53
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After a bunch of experimentation, I finally gave up on printing usable lego parts, at least with those models and that filament -- some parts fit fine as printed, some need to be scaled up slightly, and some just can't be made to fit no matter what I do -- if I enlarge them enough to fit in some modes they stop working in others. I'm not sure if this is because the printer's dimensional accuracy just isn't good enough or because the models aren't precise enough; since they originated in a visual-only CAD program, they didn't need to be dimensionally accurate, they just needed to look correct on screen when fitted together. I've now swapped in the boring grey filament I use for simple organizational and light-duty structural parts; it's going to spend the next several days cranking out game box inserts for Elder Sign, Wingspan, and Race for the Galaxy, along with some greebles and bits to improve some of the kitchen furniture. (Those bits will require actual design work from me, so they're last in the queue so I can do the modeling work while it prints card organizers and stuff). Once I'm done that it's probably either PETG to print some upgrades to the printer (an integrated tool tray and case for the rpi would be nice, and I'm still contemplating the legs upgrade with underslung filament roll to save table space; I don't need the extra space right now, but I might later), or rainbow PLA for S L U G T I M E.
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Jan 4, 2022 18:28
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biracial bear for uncut posted:If you had a drill press you could print the holes slightly small, drill them out and then press the bearings into place like you normally would. Sorry, ahould have mentioned this: the bearing seats are printed in halves, I am building an axle housing that is split down the middle.
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Jan 4, 2022 18:32
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Hadlock posted:So not a peep from Prusa on the XL since mid November I think their website says no earlier than Q2 2022, so I don't think it's weird that they haven't posted any shipping updates when they aren't planning to do it for at least another 3 months. Also the time between mid-November and now was the Christmas season, in which I can imagine they were focusing on getting all of their Christmas orders shipped, and understaffed to boot because they are a European company that probably gives their employees real holidays. So
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Jan 4, 2022 18:41
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SEKCobra posted:Sorry, ahould have mentioned this: the bearing seats are printed in halves, I am building an axle housing that is split down the middle. If its split then build in a seat for the bearing and have the 2 halfs join to contain it :  
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Jan 4, 2022 18:45
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Roundboy posted:If its split then build in a seat for the bearing and have the 2 halfs join to contain it : That's what I did, but the flat on top and bottom are making it not fit properly.
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Jan 4, 2022 19:13
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Guzwar posted:Hello 3d printing thread, I received a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k for Christmas and being technologically inept it looks like I'm doing something wrong in the very first step. I'm trying to calibrate the z-axis using a sheet of paper, but no matter how much I press down on the build plate and tighten the screws, the paper keeps moving. Phrozen's blog suggest using the vat itself if the paper method keeps failing; has anyone tried this? I’m a week late but the Phrozen bracket can be too tight against the place it attaches. Unscrew it completely and make sure it doesn’t catch on the sides and it has no friction. If it’s too tight, bend it out slightly. Also make sure you are backing the screws out far enough that the build plate is fully free to move before you start.
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Jan 4, 2022 19:41
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SEKCobra posted:Do any of you have experience with fitting metal bearings "vertically" into printed parts? I have previously put bearings in, but only on the print plane where circles are basicaly perfect. I now have a design that requires quite a few bearings, but all of them are standing up. I would prefer to print the part upside down, with the arches closing midair, but that seems like a limiting factor right now. I can adjust my design to make the outside flat rather than curved to print it the other way around, however I still think the 'flat' at the top (now bottom) of the arches cuts too much into the bearing's outer diameter for good fitment. I am not 100% sure I am following your issue exactly, but you might consider modeling a hole with teeny crush ribs. That's how injection molding solves the problem of e.g. "this bearing won't fit in the hole unless the hole is exactly the right size and shape, which we can't really guarantee, and we don't want to post process anything" I've seen it successfully used as a technique for cramming bearings into 3d printed parts with no play left. The trade-off is that the contact surfaces are the crush ribs themselves instead of the entire circumference of the hole, but that's probably okay for most applications one isn't willing to post process for.
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Jan 4, 2022 20:50
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SEKCobra posted:Sorry, ahould have mentioned this: the bearing seats are printed in halves, I am building an axle housing that is split down the middle. Oh yeah I totally misunderstood 
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Jan 4, 2022 20:52
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SEKCobra posted:Sorry, ahould have mentioned this: the bearing seats are printed in halves, I am building an axle housing that is split down the middle. Force your slicer to put supports in there, then clean them out after printing.
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Jan 4, 2022 21:25
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Just ordered a spool of silk fast change rainbow PLA to make the biggest slug I can. 140% curled slug. 880g filament. 4 days 3 hours. Strap yourselves in. If this thing explodes more than a few hours in, I won’t have enough filament to try it again.
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Jan 4, 2022 21:43
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Could anyone point me to why I'm having issues loading this .stl for printing? It comes in HUGE (probably straight from the game, who knows), I can scale it down to fit on my plate and add supports but the modle is a strange smooth shade of blue in Chitubox and when I slice it and view the .ctb it only shows the supports. My experience with my printer so far has been on the hobbyist side of plug-n-play with virtually every stl I've handled so I'm in the dark on this one. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3178724 Trying to get a late present in for my brother and while I have fallbacks, this game in question is important to both of us.
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Jan 4, 2022 23:18
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smax posted:Just ordered a spool of silk fast change rainbow PLA to make the biggest slug I can. It's such a tragedy there's no way of printing them pointing upwards so the rainbow travels along their body.
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Jan 4, 2022 23:24
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Zodack posted:Could anyone point me to why I'm having issues loading this .stl for printing? It comes in HUGE (probably straight from the game, who knows), I can scale it down to fit on my plate and add supports but the modle is a strange smooth shade of blue in Chitubox and when I slice it and view the .ctb it only shows the supports. My experience with my printer so far has been on the hobbyist side of plug-n-play with virtually every stl I've handled so I'm in the dark on this one. I've managed to get it to appear and slice okay (in Cura) by importing it into MS 3D Builder (setting the units as um, not mm), then clicking the "fix STL" dialogue that comes up, and saving it out. Oh and it also has a weird offset so appeared miles off the plate when I imported it into Cura but that can be fixed by just right-clicking and hitting "Arrange all models". e: Just in case you don't have access to 3D Builder, I've put the output file up here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Jp08YJRQiGx1YjlmVX0uWBZDLhEzeSSF/view?usp=sharing goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jan 4, 2022 |
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Jan 4, 2022 23:30
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Thank you! This is perfect. I've got 3D builder installed and didn't even realize you could use it that way. I've got it set up with some auto supports and will make a first pass at it tonight.
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Jan 4, 2022 23:52
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When in doubt, import into 3d builder, repair and save. Has never failed me.
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Jan 5, 2022 01:40
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Bucnasti posted:When in doubt, import into 3d builder, repair and save. Has never failed me. I've actually had a few models where 3D Builder wouldn't even open them, but the free version of Netfabb was able to repair them so that I could open them in 3D Builder and do whatever kitbashing I needed to do.
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Jan 5, 2022 01:48
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Zodack, just to help you understand what's actually wrong with that model, it's basically inside-out. This is a bit of a simplification, but all of the individual polygons that make up the object pretty much have one visible face and one invisible face. You want the visible sides to be on the outside facing you, and the invisible sides on the inside. The odd shade of blue you saw in Chitubox was that program's way of telling you that those faces, also known as "normals", were inverted. Cura's way of telling me that it's completely knackered is to crash whenever it tries to load up the unrepaired version. Whoever uploaded that to Thingiverse did a hilariously awful job of making it printable. You don't often see an entire model with everything facing the wrong way, but it does (obviously) happen.
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Jan 5, 2022 01:58
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Technically what the printer should be doing is filling the entire print volume with infill and leaving an opening in the shape of the model at the center.
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Jan 5, 2022 02:06
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withak posted:Technically what the printer should be doing is filling the entire print volume with infill and leaving an opening in the shape of the model at the center. Clearly the uploader intended you to print it this way, drill a small hole, and cast the model with plaster or something.
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Jan 5, 2022 05:35
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This is very cool, thanks! What surprised me was that and a lot of other Myst and Riven objects were uploaded by what appears to be a fan group for official Myst remasters or similar - I want to say RealMyst - and indicated "the model was prepared for printing" so I was a bit surprised for the thing to import at an impossibly large size completely broken.
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Jan 5, 2022 05:58
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 This is happening to things my friend tries to print on their CR-6SE. It's like it gets to a certain part of the print and then starts extruding poorly, but it's fine before that. After whatever mysterious trigger, it starts extruding intermittently, eventually missing entire z levels and blobbing up on the nozzle. As you see, it fails in the same place on each benchy. These were sliced with different slicers and different settings and orientations, and came out basically identical. I printed a featureless cylinder that was taller than this and it came out fine, so I don't think it's tied to z level. This printer worked fine with this filament before, something changed and this is new. Any idea what would cause this behavior?
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Jan 5, 2022 06:04
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Too much retraction and a bit of related heat creep probably.
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Jan 5, 2022 06:51
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Yeah it's kicking in at the first really small cross-section layer so it makes sense the even cylinder would print fine.
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Jan 5, 2022 06:53
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I just started having some issues with printing for the first time really, I keep coming back to a clogged nozzle or the filament will have been ground down by the extruder gear, guessing that is also due to some kind of clog issue? I tried to check if the ptfe tube is fully seated and it appears to be, maybe i just need to try a new piece of tube. I'm at about 400hours of use now on my Ender 3 v2 so I'm guessing it's either the extruder gear is dulling or something with my hotend that's just degraded? I should specify it's on some Spidermaker matte pla that is really soft feeling compared to other PLA. Tried changing the nozzle out too with the same issue. Trying a different filament now ugh edit: Should have also mentioned I used this filament earlier on and it worked fine, I have it in a filament dryer too. Opinionated fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Jan 5, 2022 |
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Jan 5, 2022 16:50
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ToxicFrog posted:After a bunch of experimentation, I finally gave up on printing usable lego parts, at least with those models and that filament -- some parts fit fine as printed, some need to be scaled up slightly, and some just can't be made to fit no matter what I do -- if I enlarge them enough to fit in some modes they stop working in others. I'm not sure if this is because the printer's dimensional accuracy just isn't good enough or because the models aren't precise enough; since they originated in a visual-only CAD program, they didn't need to be dimensionally accurate, they just needed to look correct on screen when fitted together. FWIW I'd be shocked if anyone could 3d print lego blocks consistently given that it's produced at micron-level precision.
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Jan 5, 2022 17:01
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Zodack posted:This is very cool, thanks! What surprised me was that and a lot of other Myst and Riven objects were uploaded by what appears to be a fan group for official Myst remasters or similar - I want to say RealMyst - and indicated "the model was prepared for printing" so I was a bit surprised for the thing to import at an impossibly large size completely broken. They never said anything about actually printing. 
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Jan 5, 2022 17:01
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CommonShore posted:FWIW I'd be shocked if anyone could 3d print lego blocks consistently given that it's produced at micron-level precision. A few people have reported success, but for all I know there was just one specific brick they needed and they spent hours tweaking the print settings to get something that worked. In my case the first type of brick I printed worked fine but nothing else did. In happier news, my first game box organizer is done:  Printed relatively sloppily at 200 micron. Probably going to give Race for the Galaxy the same treatment.
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Jan 5, 2022 17:15
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