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Without knowing the configuration of your printer, it almost looks like after a certain Z-height that whatever supports the hotend carriage starts wobbling around. Or maybe after that much weight is on the bed the bed itself starts wobbling as it runs back and forth on the axis (assuming a bed-slinger)? See if the bed has and wiggle in it and try to see where the "wiggle" is on the mounting? There may be eccentric nuts that need tightening or a clamping mechanism on v-wheels that needs tightening.
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Jan 7, 2022 19:56
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Sagebrush posted:I think their website says no earlier than Q2 2022, so I don't think it's weird that they haven't posted any shipping updates when they aren't planning to do it for at least another 3 months. I guess I was expecting some pre release, review units to come out, generate some buzz... something Yeah it's been the holidays, and covid, but generally if you plan to ship in Q1 your marketing people have a media roll out plan that activates 60-90 days ahead of launch to help drum up sales, or at least prevent buzz from completely drying up Other than some D tier hobby podcast talking about their preorder, I haven't seen any Prusa XL news since the week of the announcement, which was what, at least six weeks ago now
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Jan 7, 2022 19:58
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I wasn't expecting to see anything more for quite a few months yet at least, honestly. Q3 2022 is *ages* away, and the reveal was pretty comprehensive for a first look 
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Jan 7, 2022 20:06
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Hadlock posted:Yeah it's been the holidays, and covid, but generally if you plan to ship in Q1 your marketing people have a media roll out plan that activates 60-90 days ahead of launch to help drum up sales, or at least prevent buzz from completely drying up Again, they said Q2 at the earliest, which begins on April 1st. 60 days before that is the beginning of February. Prusa is not a particularly marketing-heavy company in the first place, and they are still well within the schedule they have have announced. I'm looking forward to it too but I can wait
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Jan 7, 2022 20:07
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I doubt they need to generate buzz when they have already sold more than they can make until q3. And once people actually get units there will be plenty of buzz.
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Jan 7, 2022 20:12
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All Prusa needs to do is send a unit to Tom Sanladerer and he'll coordinate shipping it around to the rest of the youtube 3d printer guys worth listening to about it to give it a once over and do their own reviews. Plus there are tons of trade show videos on Youtube about their prototype unit already from the usual suspects where they interviewed him about it.
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Jan 7, 2022 20:18
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Without knowing the configuration of your printer, it almost looks like after a certain Z-height that whatever supports the hotend carriage starts wobbling around. This is on a Prusa MK3S+ so both the bed and hotend SHOULD be stable right?
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Jan 7, 2022 20:18
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Should be, yeah, as long as no kids or pets or spouses have bumped into it or it hasn't been moved without checking to make sure nothing has come loose before printing again. EDIT: How is the spool set up/are the belts needing to be tightened? This should be a problem on the base layers as much as higher up but in ye olden days of 3d printing I used to have a machine that would get bound up somehow as the spool got closer to the end of the run because it was having to pull the strand out from under other strands (and the resistance as the hotend was moving around was enough to cause backlash when it "came free" at random moments on the spool). This shouldn't happen on a Prusa unless the belts are super-loose to begin with though. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jan 7, 2022 |
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Jan 7, 2022 20:19
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Vaporware posted:Oh that's neat, I'll look into forks eventually. Cura has a plugin for making temp towers, it's called Calibration Shapes or something along those lines. Shapes for Calibration maybe? You add the temp tower stl using the plugin, then you add a custom g-code modifier that they have included with the plugin. Here's the CHEP video about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LjbCIGCmd0
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Jan 7, 2022 20:30
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Sagebrush posted:Prusa is not a particularly marketing-heavy company in the first place, You did see the 20x30 display room they have setup at the Dubai* world's fair with 30+ printers running continuously printing "snowflakes", right *Which is not part of the Schengen zone
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Jan 7, 2022 21:22
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Should be, yeah, as long as no kids or pets or spouses have bumped into it or it hasn't been moved without checking to make sure nothing has come loose before printing again. Thanks! I'll check the belts and see if that helps!
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Jan 7, 2022 21:50
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Opinionated posted:Cura has a plugin for making temp towers, it's called Calibration Shapes or something along those lines. Shapes for Calibration maybe? Careful because that plugin is very sensitive when you update cura. I have had instances where the generated gcode did not actually have the changes needed. The temp tower worked, but not retractions etc. I haven't tried lately though Talorat posted:Thanks! I'll check the belts and see if that helps! it looks like you have missing steps in your x/y depending on how that was oriented. Did you say it always happens in the same location? or just for this print? You can try and check the overall system by printing a cylinder at a specific location on the bed and let it get so high. Otherwise with something like klipper or octoprint you can raise the z up to various levels, home the axis, send the x and y to the edges left and right and note the stepper steps. Then start sending the gantry back and forth and all around and home / edge again, and see what the stepper steps look like. if its off, you are skipping and that will cause shifting
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Jan 7, 2022 22:21
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Looks like some of those back segments detached from the build surface? e: oh god, responding to the rainbow slug photos from last page
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Jan 7, 2022 23:56
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Hadlock posted:You did see the 20x30 display room they have setup at the Dubai* world's fair with 30+ printers running continuously printing "snowflakes", right Sure, of course they do some marketing. I'm just saying I've never seen a Prusa ad pop up in the middle of my Instagram feed like the ones from a zillion other 3D printer companies.
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Jan 8, 2022 02:07
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Talorat posted:I'm having some weird artifacting on my rainbow slug and only a specific Z level and location on the X and Y axes. I checked and it doesn't seem like the printer is colliding with anything at that level, any idea what could be causing this? Belt tension? I had a similar problem with a different slug that I thought was due to the filament, but this slug turning out roughly the same way makes me think it's a printer issue: (quoting to bring the images to the current page for easy reference) It does look like some of the segments detached from the build plate, as the front(?) portion of the print doesn't look to have any issues at the same height. Since the model seems to be a flexible multi-body part, I'm guessing that the parts were held in place just enough to not turn it into a spaghetti monster. I bet the gap between nested parts is almost identical to the largest layer dislocation distance.
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Jan 8, 2022 03:15
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i ended up using a brim with an offset of .4 to make it easy to detach and solved all my issues there. I would also suggest ironing to fix the layer circles on the top (unless you print it < .2)
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Jan 8, 2022 03:18
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Wanderless posted:(quoting to bring the images to the current page for easy reference) You know what I bet you are exactly right, I didn't print this one with a brim at all because I was so confident in my build plate stickyness, but there's not a lot of surface contact in those segments.
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Jan 8, 2022 04:42
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RabbitWizard posted:
Not sure if I can fix this with the overlap setting or something, for now I'll just check the widths in the sliced model and change infill or perimeter settings for the parts where this poo poo appears until it doesn't. I get why PrusaSlicer does it but I don't understand why I can't disable the variable infill width. I'd rather have no infill than the lovely adjusted infill.
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Jan 8, 2022 17:50
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RabbitWizard posted:I stopped being mad at myself, now I'm mad at PrusaSlicer. It doesn't matter what extrusion width you use, PrusaSlicer will adjust it in places. So using a "0" everywhere is still fine. Have you tried it in Superslicer? Almost identical UX wise, uses the same profiles, and I know Remi has put a lot of work into extrusion width and infill management. I'm genuinely curious if it'd do better.
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Jan 8, 2022 23:15
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Interesting. I didn't know about variable width. That'd certainly explain some artifacts that look like they were feature induced.
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Jan 8, 2022 23:39
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Been having so many issues that I can't quite pinpoint. Trying out the micro swiss all metal hotend for my ender3v2, praying that solves my recent problem. Printing out a flow cube, fingers crossed. edit: Thankfully it's working great, no issues thus far! Opinionated fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Jan 9, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 00:36
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Them Vorons must be really popular, if Fysetc feels warranted registering a trademark on the Voron name to screw other part suppliers out of labelling their kits as such.
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Jan 9, 2022 01:12
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Combat Pretzel posted:Them Vorons must be really popular, if Fysetc feels warranted registering a trademark on the Voron name to screw other part suppliers out of labelling their kits as such. They're doing it to avoid IPP/IPR claims. They've been doing it to BLV too. https://www.blvprojects.com/post/trademarks-and-the-3d-community
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Jan 9, 2022 01:15
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While that page doesn't spell it out directly, I assume that the screenshots being purely Chinese, it's about trademarks in China. The complaint seems to be more about trademarks registered (or at least running attempts) in the UK and US.
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Jan 9, 2022 01:20
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snail posted:Have you tried it in Superslicer? Almost identical UX wise, uses the same profiles, and I know Remi has put a lot of work into extrusion width and infill management. Tried it - it seems much better than PrusaSlicer regarding settings - and it also does it.   Not at the same places, but that may be because of the default settings in SuperSlicer. Wait a minute! Why didn't I notice that before? It seems to apply primarily to gap fill. Which makes sense because gaps are different sizes. Let's just turn gap fill off aaaaand....   Edit: I printed this bird house. More useful than the other thing and no lovely lines in the print. 
RabbitWizard fucked around with this message at 11:29 on Jan 9, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 11:24
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I'm printing with Fillamentum Crystal Clear PLA and while the prints are coming out fine, the extruder is making a kind of hissing chattering noise at times. It hasn't done this on the other filaments I've used, and I'm not sure if this is a warning sign I need to do some sort of extruder maintainance or that there's a piece of filament rattling around in the gears or something, or if this filament is just noisy. Anyone else observed this?
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Jan 9, 2022 15:45
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Had my first spaghetti print yesterday, thanks to a tangled roll of inland PETG I picked up. I mean that's my theory, the print was still well attached to the bed and it lost it 40-50 layers in. No idea what would cause it otherwise. Now I am experimenting with filament rewinding. Makes me think of fishing reels, except with the risk of snapping the line.
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Jan 9, 2022 15:54
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18 hours in: So far, so good. The no-name filament I got seems to be holding up pretty well and looks good, and has handled the steepest overhangs like a champ so far. I didn't even do a test print or anything. Should end up around 13" long I think?
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Jan 9, 2022 17:52
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Why are my prints suddenly taking so long? Oh. I somehow managed to change the lift speeds to be one third what it used to be. Not sure how.
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Jan 9, 2022 19:43
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Why are my prints suddenly taking so long? Lychee will do that, I noticed. It wants to change mine (Photon Mono SE) to 1/3 of the factory settings.
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Jan 9, 2022 20:04
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I will say that since I changed the "main" lift speed on both my Phrozen and Saturn to around 50-60 or so, I get way fewer failed prints. The best explanation I heard for it was to think of it as the inverse of the adage about ripping off a bandaid; instead of yanking the print off the FEP as fast as possible, instead just let the build plate slowly peel it off as it lifts. Granted this means prints take a lot longer, but I'm not running a print farm (yet  ), so I usually just fire off a print before I go to bed and check on it in the morning when I get up.
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Jan 9, 2022 20:49
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I will say that since I changed the "main" lift speed on both my Phrozen and Saturn to around 50-60 or so, I get way fewer failed prints. The best explanation I heard for it was to think of it as the inverse of the adage about ripping off a bandaid; instead of yanking the print off the FEP as fast as possible, instead just let the build plate slowly peel it off as it lifts. Conversely, making the lift speed as fast as it can go has the same benefit of reducing failures but you'll finish in half the time
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Jan 9, 2022 21:03
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Material/application question: I have a twist-lock battery door I need to replace that is no longer sold. I've successfully printed one with 0.25mm nozzle in eSun ABS+. Dimensions are very good. Surface finish on the areas that contact the o-rings is excellent, plus a little silicone grease will help. My main concern is that I don't have much choice in the geometry. The little twist-lock ramps are reasonably easy to snap off at a layer interface by hand. They don't when I test it in the housing, but I'm not confident in the longevity. The little tabs/ramps are 1.5mm thick at the widest and 1.0mm thick at the thinnest. Is there a fancy engineering grade filament I could use that has very good intra-layer strength, similar properties to ABS, and easy enough to print at fine detail?  Otherwise I'm just gonna get a service to SLA/SLS print them for me, about $60AUD for 10. but then I won't have fancy filament to play with  simmyb fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Jan 9, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 22:20
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Nylon has extremely strong interlayer bonding. PETG printed hot is also pretty good that way. How much stress is the battery door under? Once it's locked in place it shouldn't be getting pushed or pulled around, right?
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Jan 9, 2022 22:30
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I will say that since I changed the "main" lift speed on both my Phrozen and Saturn to around 50-60 or so, I get way fewer failed prints. The best explanation I heard for it was to think of it as the inverse of the adage about ripping off a bandaid; instead of yanking the print off the FEP as fast as possible, instead just let the build plate slowly peel it off as it lifts. Im running the photon mono se, which from my understanding is a fast printer (fast lift speeds, and like 2 seconds per layer), and when it was running at the accidentally lower lift speeds I was getting above-average errors. Did a batch of minis and bases for the minis, 2 out of 9 of the bases were bent so bad they were garbage, and a couple others had slight bends that needed work to salvage. Few of the minis needed some extra work to fit together. Seems like anything shy of turbo speeds on this printer makes it have a tantrum lol
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Jan 9, 2022 23:11
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Sagebrush posted:Nylon has extremely strong interlayer bonding. PETG printed hot is also pretty good that way. How much stress is the battery door under? Once it's locked in place it shouldn't be getting pushed or pulled around, right? No, I get their reluctance - the entire load of the spring, plus whatever deformation that happens when it screws in, is going to be running through an extremely thin printed area by the looks of it, and all of the force would be pushing those layers apart. OP, have you tried printing it standing up (i.e. at 90 degrees to the plate)? With careful positioning (and as Sagebrush says, extra temp to ensure inter-layer bonding) that should stop the layers being the weak spot.
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Jan 9, 2022 23:39
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Getting excellent print quality with the microswiss all metal hotend and an aluminum extruder added on my ender 3 v2 with hatchbox petg @235C / 240 initial layer. Less stringing than before with the reduced retraction required for it, and I'm guessing the extra tension and grip the upgraded steel extruder gear provides. Now I guess it's time for me to finish my upgrades and add this upgraded duct, 4020 fans and direct drive extruder!
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Jan 10, 2022 00:52
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Sagebrush posted:Nylon has extremely strong interlayer bonding. PETG printed hot is also pretty good that way. How much stress is the battery door under? Once it's locked in place it shouldn't be getting pushed or pulled around, right? goddamnedtwisto posted:No, I get their reluctance - the entire load of the spring, plus whatever deformation that happens when it screws in, is going to be running through an extremely thin printed area by the looks of it, and all of the force would be pushing those layers apart. A fair bit of stress is my concern. The o-ring seat on the housing is a angled crush type, plus thermal expansion possibly on the material and trapped air. Like so:  I can't print it on the the side as the finish on the o-ring groove will not be good enough. I did some scrounging and found a little bit of Taulman 230. Will give it a go with this and if it looks promising, buy something better and fresh. I remember the 230 being a pig to print with. Thanks goons 
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Jan 10, 2022 00:58
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w00tmonger posted:Conversely, making the lift speed as fast as it can go has the same benefit of reducing failures but you'll finish in half the time Yeah but having to have a fast print time isn't currently an issue at the moment, so I'll stick with the turtle speeds for now
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Jan 10, 2022 01:07
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Talorat posted:I'm having some weird artifacting on my rainbow slug and only a specific Z level and location on the X and Y axes. I checked and it doesn't seem like the printer is colliding with anything at that level, any idea what could be causing this? Belt tension? I had a similar problem with a different slug that I thought was due to the filament, but this slug turning out roughly the same way makes me think it's a printer issue: Results are in, and it was as some of you suspected, a bed adhesion issue! I printed a new slug with a 4mm brim in Hatchbox red and it didn't have the same issue at all!  Thank you all for your help!
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Jan 10, 2022 04:07
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