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Cyrano4747 posted:16ga / 25ft sound OK for something that's going to be supervised when in use and the cord is just out in the open? You want 14 AWG minimum, possibly 12 AWG. I'm assuming your space heater is capable of drawing the max allowable current, which would likely be 80% of a 15A breaker (which is 12A, and 16 AWG is typically 10A or less, though it can be rated higher under certain circumstances). The issue with extension cables is that you get voltage drop over distance due to the resistance of the copper (resistivity is ohms per unit length, so the resistance increases over distance given a constant cross sectional area). Electric space heaters are generally purely resistive, so power at the load is constant (presumably) and since P = VI, lower voltage means higher current (edit: derp, not 100% right here, not sure what I was thinking). So due to these losses, you end up pulling more current than the extension cord (edit: and really the whole circuit) is rated for. Good extension cords should be labeled with a current rating on them to tell you how much power they can serve at the load. 25 ft isn't long, but I wouldn't use less than 14 AWG for a space heater. 12 AWG is a much safer bet. Personally, I wouldn't mess with it and I'd use 12 AWG. Easy enough to buy at any LowesDepot. Costs more than some random cheapo light duty extension cable, but space heaters are serious business and pretty major fire hazards in the scheme of things. I mean, they're a fire hazard at the best of times, let alone using extension cables and whatnot. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Jan 8, 2022 |
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Jan 8, 2022 21:20
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I'll just clear some space and plug it into the wall.
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Jan 8, 2022 21:29
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I just got some old windows replaced in my house. I had really old single pane windows that were in various states of broken/unable to open/drafty, but now they're all double pane. The noise reduction from outside is incredible and it seems like I'm keeping in so much more heat. I wasn't able to see out of the window in one of my rooms, but now I can and the glass is really clear. I feel like I'm in a fishbowl when I'm in this room, people walking by look in easily and regularly. I don't want to have the blinds closed all day. Could I apply something like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Artscape-Etched-Glass-36-in-x-72-in-Window-Film-01-0122/100616371#overlay to it? I heard that applying window film to double pane glass may be bad but I can't find anything specific beyond some FUD from window installation people about it heating it and causing the window to shatter or something. I'm not looking for anything more than blocking UV and giving the room some privacy while still allowing light in. Various window treatments are out because we have bad allergies. biceps crimes fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jan 8, 2022 |
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Jan 8, 2022 21:35
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bi crimes posted:I just got some old windows replaced in my house. I had really old single pane windows that were in various states of broken/unable to open/drafty, but now they're all double pane. The noise reduction from outside is incredible and it seems like I'm keeping in so much more heat. I'm guessing that in the abstract there must be a film that could create a situation where the window becomes damaged over time but I'm having a hard time thinking of a plausible scenario. Buy your window film from one of the online vendors who will cut to your specific size, it will save you a lot of grief unless you are very good with a utility knife. It's annoying to see a little gap around the edges not because you measured wrong, but because you just didn't cut quite straight. If you're an arts and crafts person though, go for it. It's just not my strength.
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Jan 8, 2022 22:24
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Grumpwagon posted:Is there a trick to unseizing this kind of water shut off valve? My dishwasher is dripping and I'd love to be able to turn the water off to just it until a plumber can come on Tuesday, but I can't budge the thing. I intend on getting the valves replaced with the quarter turn kind, but obviously that doesn't help me now. I would not touch that at all. You may end up turning a drip into an emergency plumber call. Every part of that looks terrible
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Jan 8, 2022 23:27
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Cyrano4747 posted:I'll just clear some space and plug it into the wall. If you grab a 14AWG extension cord you are good to go supervised. Get the shortest one you can. 16 AWG is asking for space heating far in excess of what you're hoping for but as a bonus some strapping young lads and/or ladies will come to your house and hose you down.
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Jan 8, 2022 23:49
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Bosch dishwasher was kicking right into drain mode when turned on, figured out that there was water in the bottom pan that had the float tripped. There was no water in more concerning places like the floor or behind the dishwasher. Sucked out the water and couldn't see an obvious source. I'm running a quick cycle now with it pulled out of the cabinet and watching with a flashlight. So far no drips, leaks, or new water accumulating that I can see. Anything I should do or check besides just putting it back and waiting to see if it trips again in the future?
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Jan 9, 2022 02:50
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I'm looking for a cover for an outdoor table. It needs to be very waterproof as it'll be exposed to pacific northwest winters. I did a quick lowesdepot and amazon search but I'm not convinced that any of the ones I found will be durable. Any recommendations?
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Jan 9, 2022 06:08
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I'm looking for a cover for an outdoor table. It needs to be very waterproof as it'll be exposed to pacific northwest winters. Does it have to look pretty? Don't discount thick plastic sheeting. You can put that under a fancier cover and have the best of both worlds. Also re: extension cord chat. Drawing high amperage through long runs will generate heat, sometimes even enough heat to soften the outer coatings. Especially with thinner wires. Had some mobile stage lights melt an old extension cord that way. Thankfully we were outdoors and nothing caught fire. We dumped anything less than 12 gauge after that event. Brute Squad fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Jan 9, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 06:35
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Brute Squad posted:Does it have to look pretty? Don't discount thick plastic sheeting. You can put that under a fancier cover and have the best of both worlds. Ah I should have mentioned this is right outside my living room so yeah it needs to look decent. I'm already using thick plastic sheet with some water bottles holding down but because its so visible I'm trying to make it a little more presentable.
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Jan 9, 2022 07:27
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I'm looking for a cover for an outdoor table. It needs to be very waterproof as it'll be exposed to pacific northwest winters. You're going to want some kind of vinyl table, whatever fits your style. Something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dura-Trel-6-ft-White-Vinyl-Patio-Picnic-Table-11114/205710823 I've got relatives up in your neighborhood and vinyl is the way to go if you don't want to be doing annual staining and periodic replacement when it starts to look beat. Don't get me wrong, if you want to do wood you can you just have to be really on top of sealing and staining it, and have a certain level of acceptance that it will look like poo poo after a few years. edit:  somehow I missed that you were talking about covers for an existing table. Are you trying to protect a wood table or something like that from the elements? Because anything that will look decent is going to have a seam where water can penetrate, and depending on where you are in the PacNW it either might or will . I mean, there's going to be a pretty big difference between if you're talking about "PacNW" as in semi-arid Bend, OR or "pac NW" as in "is technically a rain forest" up in the San Juans or something.
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Jan 9, 2022 18:02
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Other than cable TV/internet does anything use coax these days? I'm cutting the cord and trying to figure out if I need to keep this big unwieldy length of coax in the closet for a rainy day or toss it.
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Jan 10, 2022 01:10
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Lester Shy posted:Other than cable TV/internet does anything use coax these days? I'm cutting the cord and trying to figure out if I need to keep this big unwieldy length of coax in the closet for a rainy day or toss it. If you're going to use an antenna then a lot of them use coax.
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Jan 10, 2022 02:34
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My dishwasher isn't draining and doesn't seem to cycle or do anything when trying to run it now except smell slightly of burning... I checked the drain and it seems fine and stuck my finger in from the inside of the dishwasher at the bottom and couldn't feel anything blocking it. Tried cleaning the filter and stuff and nothing made any change. Should I try replacing the pump or have somebody smarter look at it? No idea how old it is (I'd guess 10-15 years?) but it's a Bosch.
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Jan 10, 2022 02:59
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Suburban Dad posted:My dishwasher isn't draining and doesn't seem to cycle or do anything when trying to run it now except smell slightly of burning... I checked the drain and it seems fine and stuck my finger in from the inside of the dishwasher at the bottom and couldn't feel anything blocking it. Tried cleaning the filter and stuff and nothing made any change. Replacing the drain pump should be pretty straight forward. https://www.repairclinic.com probably sells parts for it, and might even have a video showing how to replace it. THey had one for replacing the circulation pump on my (frigidaire) dishwasher and it was fairly easy, since then I've had to replace the drain pump (no video, but I wasn't scared that time) and just a week or so ago, the inlet valve. As long as none of the electronic brick-a-brack doesn't go out on it, my dishwasher is probably now good for another 15 years.
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Jan 10, 2022 09:22
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Suburban Dad posted:My dishwasher isn't draining and doesn't seem to cycle or do anything when trying to run it now except smell slightly of burning... I checked the drain and it seems fine and stuck my finger in from the inside of the dishwasher at the bottom and couldn't feel anything blocking it. Tried cleaning the filter and stuff and nothing made any change. Make sure the one-way “check valve” on the pump isn’t clogged. If it is, you may see water in the drain hose high-loop rocking back and forth, but not actually making progress to drain. I hear some nice dishwashers make the check valve easy to access. My last lovely one was molded into the hidden end of drain hose. It only takes a little gunk to hold it open and make the drain pump useless. edit: oh, I misread. Sounds like you’re saying your pump isn’t making noise at all.
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Jan 10, 2022 16:29
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I ordered the part but haven't actually taken it apart to see anything below the surface. Might do that tonight and see if there's any extra junk in the motor or lines before swapping it. It doesn't appear too difficult to get to the drain motor. I'll just be kinda pissed if I'm replacing a motor for $125 and that doesn't fix it. 
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Jan 10, 2022 17:46
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My girlfriends house has a leak coming from the ceiling in her kichten. I climbed into the crawl space that is next to the kitchen and could see the wet spot on the plywood directly under the roof itself. There aren't any pipes that I could see. We haven't had any rain in our area for about two weeks so it shouldn't be from that. The only idea I can think of is that one of the vent pipes is clogged or something. She can't get a plumber out for a couple days so I'm trying to figure out what the issue could be so they have an idea before the plumber shows up. Once I get home I can post pics that might explain it better if you need them.
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Jan 11, 2022 02:23
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diremonk posted:My girlfriends house has a leak coming from the ceiling in her kichten. I climbed into the crawl space that is next to the kitchen and could see the wet spot on the plywood directly under the roof itself. There aren't any pipes that I could see. We haven't had any rain in our area for about two weeks so it shouldn't be from that. The only idea I can think of is that one of the vent pipes is clogged or something. She can't get a plumber out for a couple days so I'm trying to figure out what the issue could be so they have an idea before the plumber shows up. Once I get home I can post pics that might explain it better if you need them.
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Jan 11, 2022 03:10
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Is there an air mover or anything HVAC-related up there? ^^^ that too ^^^
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Jan 11, 2022 03:11
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The heater is located in the attic space but not in the same general area. It has been getting cold here, but nothing below freezing. No rain in the last two weeks or so, just fog. Here are the images I took. You can see the wet area in the center of the pic. It was actively dripping when I was up there. I got as close as could to the area on the outside and the roof itself was dry with no water evident. There's nothing above the place where the water seems to be seeping except for roof tiles.
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Jan 11, 2022 03:51
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What are those white pipes there, on the blown-in? If one is a condensate drain line, it could have a hole in it. Typically, attic-mounted air movers drain via gravity, but if the water has to be moved some distance horizontally, there may be a condensate pump, and when that runs, if there's a crack in the line, it'll spray water right up there. Vinyl lines get brittle as they age, & they age faster in hot locations. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Jan 11, 2022 |
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Jan 11, 2022 04:01
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diremonk posted:The heater is located in the attic space but not in the same general area. It has been getting cold here, but nothing below freezing. No rain in the last two weeks or so, just fog. Here are the images I took. When you say "above", do you mean "directly over", or do you mean "following up the roof"? Water can flow down through seams and cracks and emerge much lower down than the leak point, so check up the roof from there. Water can also move horizontally to some extent.
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Jan 11, 2022 04:02
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Any dryer vents ran though the attic in the area? Friend had a leak they couldn't figure out for a while that only happened in the winter. There was nothing in the area, turned out the dryer vent that went though the ceiling had a hole in it and wherever the warm hair was uh coalescing? It would the run down various rafters then drip down onto the ceiling.
Rakeris fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Jan 11, 2022 |
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Jan 11, 2022 04:03
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PainterofCrap posted:What are those white pipes there, on the blown-in? Not sure about the white lines, but the condensate drain line was down by my feet. The previous owners did all sorts of strange crap so I'm not sure what those lines are. Maybe one is PEX and under pressure and sprung a leak. But from the work I've done, I thought the house was plumbed in copper (built in 2000, southern-central CA) TooMuchAbstraction posted:When you say "above", do you mean "directly over", or do you mean "following up the roof"? Water can flow down through seams and cracks and emerge much lower down than the leak point, so check up the roof from there. Water can also move horizontally to some extent. I looked at the entire roof line, I didn't see any water at all on any of the tiles.
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Jan 11, 2022 05:55
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So that is the attic, correct? Not a "crawlspace" beneath the main floor. If it is in fact an attic my bet is that there is a roof leak somewhere and it's leaking downward. If you've had windy weather over the past couple of days it could have peeled a shingle off. I know that you've checked the roofing on top but are you positive that there hasn't been any precipitation at all over the past couple of weeks, like not even a brief overnight rain? Also might want to check and make sure that the builder or last roofer actually laid down waterproof membrane beneath the shingles. LOTS of sketchy builders and roofers neglect to do this, especially in newer builds. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Water can also move horizontally to some extent. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Jan 11, 2022 |
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Jan 11, 2022 05:56
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melon cat posted:So that is the attic, correct? Not a "crawlspace" beneath the main floor. Sorry, should have been more clear. That is a pic from the attic. No rain in the last two weeks, no high winds either. The roof is tile and didn't see any missing ones. [edit] Now that I'm looking at the pics more closely, I think one of you is right and it is a cracked water line. It looks like there is a spray pattern on the joist? and if you look just to the left you can see where it kind of continues. I think I'm going to try and patch it with some silicone repair tape until the plumber comes out tomorrow. Not sure why they would run pex in the attic space over the kitchen other than they had a jacuzzi in the garage. Now I just gotta find a way to get to those lines without falling through the ceiling or getting too covered in blown insulation/rat crap. diremonk fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Jan 11, 2022 |
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Jan 11, 2022 06:10
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If the jacuzzi is gone, and the line is abandoned in place, find where it joins to the main and see if there’s a shutoff valve or two.
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Jan 11, 2022 20:19
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Was able to repair it today. Of course I had to go about fixing it in the most dumb rear end way possible, so I might as well share. Since I thought the pex line was cracked and spraying water up, I figured I'd half rear end the repair and just slap some silicone repair tape on the line and let the pro fix it properly tomorrow. But as soon as I started wrapping it, the line cracked further and was spraying even more water. So quick trip to home depot for some new 1/2 inch pex and some couplers and back up in the attic. Except the one I got were too small for the pex. So another trip back and actually talk to the plumbing dept guy and got the correct items. Another trip back up and everything seems to be water tight, no drips. Turn the water back on, still the same. Everything seemed to work out other than the damaged paint in the kitchen and bathroom. I think my girlfriend is still going to have a pro look at things but hopefully I won't need to go back up there anytime soon. Thanks for the help from everybody. Quick question, is pex usually just run haphazardly through the blown in insulation with nothing really securing it to studs or is that more PO idiocy?
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Jan 12, 2022 05:15
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Suburban Dad posted:My dishwasher isn't draining and doesn't seem to cycle or do anything when trying to run it now except smell slightly of burning... I checked the drain and it seems fine and stuck my finger in from the inside of the dishwasher at the bottom and couldn't feel anything blocking it. Tried cleaning the filter and stuff and nothing made any change. Replaced the pump, and nothing changed. Looked into it a bit further and here's what it does...You can hit the power button and the buttons light up/change depending on what cycle you choose. Close the door and it latches and the lights go off (so I assume the latch is ok). Then nothing else happens. Not sure if it's the control board now but that's about $200 and it might fix it again, or might not. Ugh. At least I can return the part and it's really simple to work on so far. E: dishwasher is from 2005. new one time 
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Jan 12, 2022 |
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Jan 12, 2022 16:43
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Which thread is where I would ask about electric fencing? Just need to rope off about a quarter acre this spring, maybe 500 feet in total length, thinking 12v system, tall enough to keep out the possible stray cow or horse, but mostly deer and rabbit are the concern.
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Jan 13, 2022 06:51
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Suburban Dad posted:Replaced the pump, and nothing changed. Looked into it a bit further and here's what it does...You can hit the power button and the buttons light up/change depending on what cycle you choose. Close the door and it latches and the lights go off (so I assume the latch is ok). Then nothing else happens. Not sure if it's the control board now but that's about $200 and it might fix it again, or might not. Ugh. At least I can return the part and it's really simple to work on so far. Take a look under it at the drip tray. When I had some problems with mine a mouse had chewed on the foam float under there and caused it to always be pushed up. The dishwasher thought the tray had water all of the time and wouldn't run. It may be a challenge to find it but that's a possibility. Also, if you can disassemble and look at the control board sometimes there's just obvious burn marks on some component, like a relay or something.
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Jan 13, 2022 07:04
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Which thread is where I would ask about electric fencing? Just need to rope off about a quarter acre this spring, maybe 500 feet in total length, thinking 12v system, tall enough to keep out the possible stray cow or horse, but mostly deer and rabbit are the concern. Lot of options for electric fencing. But some fiberglass poles ( ex http://www.tjsfencingcompany.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Fence-Post.html) and some fence wire (https://www.homedepot.com/b/Lumber-Composites-Fencing-Electric-Fencing-Electric-Fence-Wire/N-5yc1vZc3q9) will get done what you seem to want? iirc last fence I did was aluminum wire and aluminum fence ties with fiberglass poles. Worked fine as long as you kept tall grasses out of the electric fencing. (it will kill most of it depending on charger, but to much will reduce it's, uh usefulness)
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Jan 13, 2022 07:17
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Rakeris posted:Lot of options for electric fencing. But some fiberglass poles ( ex http://www.tjsfencingcompany.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Fence-Post.html) and some fence wire (https://www.homedepot.com/b/Lumber-Composites-Fencing-Electric-Fencing-Electric-Fence-Wire/N-5yc1vZc3q9) will get done what you seem to want? iirc last fence I did was aluminum wire and aluminum fence ties with fiberglass poles. Worked fine as long as you kept tall grasses out of the electric fencing. (it will kill most of it depending on charger, but to much will reduce it's, uh usefulness) Thanks, I didn't think about fiberglass poles, those will probably work perfect, aluminum wire is probably fine too. Grass isn't a concern, sand and sagebrush are our biggest issues aside from wildlife, but we'll be clearing the patch of land for the immediate area anyhow. I get the feeling we'll be building a hoop house too, but he expressed interest in a solar 12v fence so I might as well look into it.
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Jan 13, 2022 07:56
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Which thread is where I would ask about electric fencing? Just need to rope off about a quarter acre this spring, maybe 500 feet in total length, thinking 12v system, tall enough to keep out the possible stray cow or horse, but mostly deer and rabbit are the concern. If deer are the main concern the fence is gonna have to be at least six feet tall anyways. They'll clear a four foot fence from a standing start without any effort at all, and most adult deer barely have to work at clearing a five footer. They also probably won't care if the fence is electric because they're going to clear the fence without ever touching it unless they gently caress up their jump. If you've got something in there that they want pretty badly, like a vegetable garden or the like, you may have to go up to seven feet.
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Jan 13, 2022 09:09
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Rexxed posted:Take a look under it at the drip tray. When I had some problems with mine a mouse had chewed on the foam float under there and caused it to always be pushed up. The dishwasher thought the tray had water all of the time and wouldn't run. It may be a challenge to find it but that's a possibility. Also, if you can disassemble and look at the control board sometimes there's just obvious burn marks on some component, like a relay or something. Yeah I took off the door and went through replacing the pump under it. Nothing looked out of sorts. Surely something burnt up which might explain the burning smell we noticed trying to start it a couple times. The control board is $200 just for the part so it probably isn't worth replacing on something that old. I'm sure it could be fixed but I don't want to go down the rabbit hole any further.
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Jan 13, 2022 12:09
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Khizan posted:If deer are the main concern the fence is gonna have to be at least six feet tall anyways. They'll clear a four foot fence from a standing start without any effort at all, and most adult deer barely have to work at clearing a five footer. They also probably won't care if the fence is electric because they're going to clear the fence without ever touching it unless they gently caress up their jump. Deer are more a novelty sighting out there, I see more walking around in town than I do out at my friend's land, but you have a very good point. I need to get a list of what he wants to grow. More I think about it, we might need a few hoop houses instead of an electric fence.
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Jan 13, 2022 15:00
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ok, I have a decent wad of cash and it's time to get serious about fixing my washer/dryer. They're most likely original to the house (around 30 years) and just aren't getting the job done. the washer is leaving some kind of slime on clothes. I cleaned the filter (it's that hole into the brown area) and took off the agitator spindle, cleaned that all up, ran a cycle of bleach and then a rinse cycle. The cold water fill is also extremely slow, I did my best to clean out the fitting with some vinegar and it's still slow, apparently this can be caused by a bad fill valve, which is a $64 part. There is still a little bit of hair inside the spindle that I just couldn't get out, think it's stuck between two parts of the spindle and I can't seem to disassemble it. There doesn't seem to be a bolt inside the spindle that I could remove to take it apart (Kenmore LAT9356AAE) unfortunately, and replacing the whole spindle is another $160. There's something on the part of the drum where the spindle mounts - what is this? Some kind of buildup? Something getting broken down? Some kind of mud to keep the water away from the splines inside the spindle?  the dryer isn't getting clothes dry in a reasonable amount of time (including with the auto-sense mode). It usually takes like 2 or 3 cycles even with a smaller load to get everything fully dry. It does seem to be getting warm, and I've vacuumed out the exhaust ducts. What next? how much is it worth sinking into these appliances considering they're 30 years old? obviously old isn't inherently bad, and may be more durable than newer stuff, but on the other hand they're old and there's no guarantee more stuff doesn't break tomorrow. It looks like costco has a decent range of units for about $1300-1400 a pair. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jan 13, 2022 |
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Jan 13, 2022 19:47
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Deer are more a novelty sighting out there, I see more walking around in town than I do out at my friend's land, but you have a very good point. it's also not going to stop rabbits, because they can dig under a fence too; you gotta put some kind of tight mesh wire and run it down into the ground to deter rodent entry electric fences are for livestock containment, basically
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Jan 13, 2022 20:02
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One of the tap handles on my basement utility sink broke, anyone recognize it / know where to find a replacement?
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Jan 13, 2022 20:22
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