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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Six to eight hours? Generator.

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Xenix
Feb 21, 2003
There are backup pumps that use your municipal water supply and the venturi effect to pump water out of a sumo. If you've a nearby water supply line, that's an option. I think the one I've seen before is called Basepump.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Kingtheninja posted:

So we received a notice from our power company, they're working in our neighborhood and should expect no power for about 6 hours on Thursday. Which sounds great. We have a sump pump in the basement, but have no idea what we need to keep it running without power.

Is there something specific to these pumps we would need to look for? Or would a generator plugged into the pump do the trick? First time dealing with anything in this type of situation, so the simpler the better.

Generator. But why do you think you need to keep this sump pump running? Does it run all the time already (this is a different problem) or what?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


motronic is right

if you can't shut off your sump pump for a day without moving under the sea there's another problem

Kingtheninja
Jul 29, 2004

"You're the best looking guy here."
Mainly because I have no idea what I'm doing and am new to this. I know our pump runs a few times a day, so I assumed six hours without power would let the water level rise too high.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Kingtheninja posted:

Mainly because I have no idea what I'm doing and am new to this. I know our pump runs a few times a day, so I assumed six hours without power would let the water level rise too high.
Like, when it's raining or just all the time? Where do you live, what's your yard like, etc? You shouldn't have a constant supply of water around your foundation.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Unplug your pump the next time you’re going to be at home for 6 hours and keep an eye on it.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



My house/neighborhood is in a drained swamp off of the Delaware River, and the water table is about six inches below my basement floor, maybe a bit more in quasi-drought conditions but definitely well-below the water table if we’re getting more than average rainfall, and my my system will pull groundwater for a couple-3-weeks after the last heavy precipitation. What saves my foundation walls is that the whole area is sand.

During such a period, a power loss for more than four hours would turn my basement into a koi pond. One of the reasons I have a generator.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

PainterofCrap posted:

During such a period, a power loss for more than four hours would turn my basement into a koi pond. One of the reasons I have a generator.

Don't they have water powered sump pumps for backups?

ROJO
Jan 14, 2006

Oven Wrangler

kid sinister posted:

Don't they have water powered sump pumps for backups?

I am intrigued by these things - I have been thinking I should have some backup for my sump, since the primary time I depend on it is during storms (Bay Area CA) when it is likely our power may go out also. Now, worst thing that happens if my sump overflows is my encapsulated crawlspace floods and I have to pump it out later, so not the end of the world - just a large inconvenience. My sump is also right under the master bathroom and near the foundation wall, so I have readily accessible copper lines right there with a good discharge point. Anyone here actually have experience with them?

Along the same lines, anyone have a recommendation for a good, 120V powered de-watering pump with a garden hose outlet I could throw down in the crawl space in case it does flood in the meantime (not that we might get anymore rain this season)? Figure that is the sort of thing I would rather already have on hand when needed.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

ROJO posted:

Along the same lines, anyone have a recommendation for a good, 120V powered de-watering pump with a garden hose outlet

Those requirements are mutually exclusive. You'll be lucky to flow 12 GPM through a garden hose regardless of the quality or price of the pump.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



kid sinister posted:

Don't they have water powered sump pumps for backups?

I have sleep apnea and the generator will run that, the fridges & freezers, and the pump.

Probably getting one of those this year and installing it. 2021 was a fairly uneventful year for groundwater, and it hardly ran, so I get cheap/lazy...which isn't the thing to do since it all can change in a heartbeat.

Kingtheninja
Jul 29, 2004

"You're the best looking guy here."

Slugworth posted:

Like, when it's raining or just all the time? Where do you live, what's your yard like, etc? You shouldn't have a constant supply of water around your foundation.

I live in the burbs outside Chicago, our area isn't great but not terrible for water. Our house has a sloped back yard at least so water drains away from it. I hear it go periodically throughout the day in normal conditions, but I'd imagine it pumps out maybe 5 or 6 times a day. I just get nervous because during the big rain falls in the summer I timed it running every 50 seconds for a few hours, so I worry 6 hours without power might let water get too high.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Leperflesh posted:

I remember now, you built a coffee table in the woodworking thread, right? Tell me what sorta tools you have to hand.

Others have given some suggestions, but I have another one that may or may not actually be easier/faster/better, depending on what you've got. Got a saw? Prybar? Square?

Got personal transport? Able to go visit a big box DIY store? Could you reasonably get home with a stick of wood about six and a third feet long?

I have a lovely handsaw that I wrecked on a few pieces of hollow metal pipe. That's about it. If I were to have tools, I'd wait until I got a whole garage to work out of. :(

I'd considered just getting a bunch of wood outside, sawing it down to fit, and gluing it to the missing part. But then I'd have to figure out how to cut the right piece out of the wood for the latch, and eh. Will prolly just get a really long screw and fasten the latch back in and hope for the best.

Also I suspect that door is why I have so many insulation issues this winter!

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud
Is there any "the basics of building a house" book, video? Generally cement brick with metal roof.

If I build a house in a less developed country with no regulation, is there some sort of guild I can follow so that the roof doesn't fall down after a year.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Fozzy The Bear posted:

Is there any "the basics of building a house" book, video? Generally cement brick with metal roof.

If I build a house in a less developed country with no regulation, is there some sort of guild I can follow so that the roof doesn't fall down after a year.

This isn't the right materials (it's all lumber building), but it might still be useful: Housebuilding: A Do-It-Yourself Guide. It has clear diagrams for all the various bits that go into making a house. I think if you combined that with a reputable guide for cement brick construction, you'd be in a pretty good place.

Off the top of my head, the things that are important when it comes to roofs are:

- The roof is built of strong enough materials to support loads: the weight of the roof deck and the roof itself (metal in your case), the weight of people walking on it, the weight of any snow that might accumulate, etc.
- It's designed such that water flows off of it instead of getting stuck in crannies or flowing into cracks. For the most part this means that materials higher up the roof are installed last, so that they overlap on top of materials that are lower down.
- If in an area where it freezes, the roof is steep enough that large quantities of snow can't accumulate and the risk of ice dams is reduced
- If in an area with high winds, the roof is securely attached to the rest of the building (otherwise updrafts can rip the roof off the walls)
- If in an area with high rainfall, gutters are installed and the runoff directed away from the building's foundation
- The rafters have blocking installed between them to resist racking forces

That said, I've only built one roof and it was years ago, so do not take this as any kind of expert advice.

I would generally say "build your walls, then order prefabricated trusses and install them according to the manufacturer's recommendation", but trusses like that might not be available in your area.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I have that book^^^^^^^ Its pretty good and I learned a lot.

Though in fairness I've still never built a house yet.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE
the washer is now so far out of balance it walked its way off a shim and tripping a sensor and halting the cycle. on top of the previous issues this may be it. Think I’d be looking at $300 of parts before this.

It could be related to me messing with the column trying to clean it out but it has never been very balanced since I bought the place. They’re 30 years old, just worn out.

So what’s good these days in washers/dryers? Any brands with better reliability or whatever? I don’t really mind trading feature set for cost/reliability, no need for internet gizmos to break.

D34THROW
Jan 29, 2012

RETAIL RETAIL LISTEN TO ME BITCH ABOUT RETAIL
:rant:
Working on starting to repaint over the poo poo-awful flat apartment white, and noticed that the previously painted bathroom has what looks like pubes and beard trimmings embedded in the paint, probably from the POs shaving or something before painting in there.

Google is telling me how to get paint out of hair but not vice versa. Do i just take some 60 or 80 grit and sand it out before repainting in there or what?

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


D34THROW posted:

Working on starting to repaint over the poo poo-awful flat apartment white, and noticed that the previously painted bathroom has what looks like pubes and beard trimmings embedded in the paint, probably from the POs shaving or something before painting in there.

Google is telling me how to get paint out of hair but not vice versa. Do i just take some 60 or 80 grit and sand it out before repainting in there or what?

yep sand it out or scrape it off with a paint scraper.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015
Might not be the place to ask but I'll give it a try:

I've got a radio HDMI receiver that is not working right. I opened it up and discovered the issue. The screw fitting for the antenna was just surface glued to the inside of the plastic case by the manufacturer and the glue failed. When the glue failed there was no mechanical means to prevent the fitting from spinning freely, which caused the wire between it and the circuit board to break.

It should be a fairly simple repair, but I want to make sure that the fitting cannot spin. It's got a hexagonal base, but there's nothing in the existing plastic to grab and hold that base. Would applying JB Weld or something similar around it do the job?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

PremiumSupport posted:

Might not be the place to ask but I'll give it a try:

I've got a radio HDMI receiver that is not working right. I opened it up and discovered the issue. The screw fitting for the antenna was just surface glued to the inside of the plastic case by the manufacturer and the glue failed. When the glue failed there was no mechanical means to prevent the fitting from spinning freely, which caused the wire between it and the circuit board to break.

It should be a fairly simple repair, but I want to make sure that the fitting cannot spin. It's got a hexagonal base, but there's nothing in the existing plastic to grab and hold that base. Would applying JB Weld or something similar around it do the job?

Picture is worth a thousand words here. Also hot glue or that silicone goop that hardens. Or a drop of solder.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

H110Hawk posted:

Picture is worth a thousand words here. Also hot glue or that silicone goop that hardens. Or a drop of solder.

Yeah, like an idiot I left my phone at work when I went home for lunch. I can post some later this evening though.

lwoodio
Apr 4, 2008

Our tub was leaking into this closet for a while. I pulled off the trim to put down new lvp, and the drywall that is in contact with the backside of the trim looks like it has mold. What should I do? I think I can cut it out and just put in a small patch that won't need to be taped and mudded since the trim will go back a little higher up.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

lwoodio posted:

Our tub was leaking into this closet for a while. I pulled off the trim to put down new lvp, and the drywall that is in contact with the backside of the trim looks like it has mold. What should I do? I think I can cut it out and just put in a small patch that won't need to be taped and mudded since the trim will go back a little higher up.



I'd be more worried about what's going on on the backside of that drywall, i.e. inside the wall.

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
Oh no. My friend.....

Several years ago, me noticing a little wet patch where the wallpaper was lifting off the drywall along rhe shower led to me having to go to the studs on 2.5 walls. I was seeing the tip of the iceberg where it had finally come through the wall, and the backside of the drywall was straight up black mold.

lwoodio
Apr 4, 2008

I guess I will cut the bottom couple inches off and take a look at the bottom of the 2x4s

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

lwoodio posted:

I guess I will cut the bottom couple inches off and take a look at the bottom of the 2x4s
You're more likely to see mold on the back of the drywall, not so much the 2x4s.

The counter argument btw, is that if this was a one time water intrusion, it has dried out, and nobody in the home has respiratory or immune issues, wiping down the outside of the wall and sealing up the wall cavity isn't the *worst* plan. Mold doesn't grow in the absence of moisture, so it's not gonna get worse, and encapsulation is a reasonable method of dealing with minor issues. You breathe in mold spores all day long, the health concern comes when your house's air ends up having a higher amount than a typical summer day.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

H110Hawk posted:

Picture is worth a thousand words here. Also hot glue or that silicone goop that hardens. Or a drop of solder.

Here's a couple shots of the device internals, AA battery included for scale.

https://imgur.com/a/lTdgube

There was nothing but the metal-to-plastic glue interface preventing the fitting from spinning freely, and that obviously was not sufficient. I want to do something to beef it up rather than just re-gluing it and hoping it doesn't come loose again.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

PremiumSupport posted:

Here's a couple shots of the device internals, AA battery included for scale.

https://imgur.com/a/lTdgube

There was nothing but the metal-to-plastic glue interface preventing the fitting from spinning freely, and that obviously was not sufficient. I want to do something to beef it up rather than just re-gluing it and hoping it doesn't come loose again.

I think your plan to use an epoxy like JB Weld will work just fine.

CzarChasm
Mar 14, 2009

I don't like it when you're watching me eat.

Paul MaudDib posted:

the washer is now so far out of balance it walked its way off a shim and tripping a sensor and halting the cycle. on top of the previous issues this may be it. Think I’d be looking at $300 of parts before this.

It could be related to me messing with the column trying to clean it out but it has never been very balanced since I bought the place. They’re 30 years old, just worn out.

So what’s good these days in washers/dryers? Any brands with better reliability or whatever? I don’t really mind trading feature set for cost/reliability, no need for internet gizmos to break.

Product recommendation thread is maybe a better spot, but I'd offer a few suggestions:

Avoid anything that insists on connection to IOT or your phone to make/change settings. If you have to download an app to use the thing, pass.

Along similar lines, I don't trust a phone manufacturer to make a good, large home appliance. I don't like touch screens on big equipment. Just feels like one more thing to fail.

Anything you buy today is probably going to be way more efficient than what you are replacing. What brand are you replacing? I don't know if you'll get another 30 years out of it, but that's a really good run. Maybe look and see what the latest model of that is.

I don't know how bad wait times are now for appliances, but it was 6+ months for me last year to get a new fridge. Same for a buddy of mine. You might either need to look far and wide, or prepare for a wait.

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

CzarChasm posted:

Along similar lines, I don't trust a phone manufacturer to make a good, large home appliance.

I don’t think you really get how these giant Korean conglomerates operate.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



All I can add to the above: explore commercial equipment. It's usually simple, durable, and light on electronic crap.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

FCKGW posted:

I don’t think you really get how these giant Korean conglomerates operate.

Samsung should tell their appliances division to spend more on durability and less on tv's in your appliances. Their dedicated TV appliance sucks, why would you combine that with the thing that keeps your food edible longer?

Corla Plankun
May 8, 2007

improve the lives of everyone
Can a regular person safely and responsibly install a gas fireplace?

Here are the connections/controls I have (obviously i'll stop using the fireplace as a toddler bookshelf when the time comes):


I live in TX and last February many people were left without power so I'm hoping to have a backup source of heat. I don't know anything about this and I am so afraid of gas that once when I was a 20-something I endured a whole winter in Dallas with no heating whatsoever because I was too scared of the open-flame wall-mounted heater my apartment had.

It seems like I might be able to buy the following and DIY it together:
  • Vent-Free Gas Log Fireplace (I've read that these are safer than vented but they have ~less ambiance~ which I couldn't care less about since we're just trying to survive)
  • Flexible gas line (unsure about the correct sizes/attachments here and I don't know how to figure it out in advance without making 10 lowes trips)
  • Pipe Dope
  • Key for the gas hole

Am I forgetting anything? Should I hire a professional for this? Are any of my assumptions stupid?

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I'm hiring an electrician to install a 240V/50A outlet for charging an EV. The installation location will be somewhat sheltered, but it's still exposed enough that I want to build a box to protect it from rain. Building the box is easy enough -- backing board with a hole in it for the outlet, sloping roof, charging cord exits through a hole in the bottom, hinged cover with a latch. What I'm wondering about is water getting between the box and the wall. The siding is stucco, so not the kind of thing that I can get a piece of Z flashing into. Is this a case where I just caulk the top and sides and hope for the best?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I'm hiring an electrician to install a 240V/50A outlet for charging an EV. The installation location will be somewhat sheltered, but it's still exposed enough that I want to build a box to protect it from rain. Building the box is easy enough -- backing board with a hole in it for the outlet, sloping roof, charging cord exits through a hole in the bottom, hinged cover with a latch. What I'm wondering about is water getting between the box and the wall. The siding is stucco, so not the kind of thing that I can get a piece of Z flashing into. Is this a case where I just caulk the top and sides and hope for the best?

I would just us all UL-Listed waterproof equipment and let it get rained on directly. If you're using cord-and-plug instead of hardwired then use IEC 60309 connectors like a baller. Plenty of outdoor chargers that have 0 protection from the elements.

If you want to build a little house for it to be aesthetically pleasing then yeah I guess caulk it regularly and pray? Make sure you aren't enclosing it if it's not rated to be, could overheat.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

Corla Plankun posted:

Can a regular person safely and responsibly install a gas fireplace?


Gas is no harder than any other plumbing, however getting it wrong is a lot more dangerous than your average water leak. I would honestly hire out the installation.

If you're doing it yourself you should know how to purge the gas line to make it safe to uncap and work with, and how to test your work for leaks.

Grumpwagon
May 6, 2007
I am a giant assfuck who needs to harden the fuck up.

Corla Plankun posted:

Can a regular person safely and responsibly install a gas fireplace?

Even if you don't DIY the whole thing (and I agree that you either shouldn't, or be well prepared with leak detection and knowledge), you could do the physical install and just hire a plumber to do the piping. I got a pipe installed professionally for my stove, and it really wasn't too bad.

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Flipperwaldt
Nov 11, 2011

Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?



I don't remember where I heard the story of the guy purging the gas line with a vacuum cleaner and blowing up the place. Well, definitely don't do that.

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