|
GEMorris posted:I may get pilloried for this but: a domino Ah yeah. That's the dream but that's like 4 expensive purchases down the pipe for me after a proper bandsaw, a sawstop, and a full-sized jointer.
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 17:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 15:06 |
|
|
Has anyone found a use for sawdust? I have various sizes from average to super fine, all completely clean and sorted by wood species. The various cedars are super aromatic. Someone casually mentioned something about making some sort of firestarter with it. I feel there has to be some use to sorted by size (different tools make different dust) and clean sawdust? Anything arts and craftsy?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 17:37
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:
Nice stand, great problem to have. Obligatory shop dog- check. I've done the same thing with sackrete for weight on a top heavy shaper. And hell you can build your own fur-lined pillory. Harry Potter on Ice posted:Has anyone found a use for sawdust? I have various sizes from average to super fine, all completely clean and sorted by wood species. The various cedars are super aromatic. Someone casually mentioned something about making some sort of firestarter with it. I feel there has to be some use to sorted by size (different tools make different dust) and clean sawdust? Anything arts and craftsy? Mulch? I wouldn't use cedar in a fireplace because it's a sappy softwood. Might smell great though. Pluses and minuses. But, I think there are tricks online somewhere to making little blocks from sawdust. ...must resist trolling you about sorting sawdust, because dude that's goon gold. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 18:35
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:Mulch? I wouldn't use cedar in a fireplace because it's a sappy softwood. Might smell great though. Pluses and minuses. But, I think there are tricks online somewhere to making little blocks from sawdust. Oh no, I know it's funny as hell but all it ends up being is I sweep up the dust at the end of the day and put it in a big bag and I'm only working on one species at a time so it wasnt much to grab a different bag. My sister had made a request for some for a project a while ago. Chainsaw/angle grinder/die grinder/orbital/chisels all give quite different stuff! If only there was an angle to slang it
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 18:39
|
|
|
I use all of my clean sawdust and shavings in my garden.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 18:54
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Has anyone found a use for sawdust? I have various sizes from average to super fine, all completely clean and sorted by wood species. The various cedars are super aromatic. Someone casually mentioned something about making some sort of firestarter with it. I feel there has to be some use to sorted by size (different tools make different dust) and clean sawdust? Anything arts and craftsy? Sawdust is great for cleaning up oil spills and the like.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 20:01
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:I wouldn't use cedar in a fireplace because it's a sappy softwood. Might smell great though. Pluses and minuses. But, I think there are tricks online somewhere to making little blocks from sawdust. Is there something extra special about cedar? Because sappy softwood (fir, pine) is a very common firewood over here. It's mostly what I've burned in my heaters for the last decade or so without issues.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 20:05
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Is there something extra special about cedar? Because sappy softwood (fir, pine) is a very common firewood over here. It's mostly what I've burned in my heaters for the last decade or so without issues. Same here, we have eastern white cedar and it's the kindling of choice. I'm not sure I'd want to try to heat all night with it, it doesn't last terribly long. Sappy woods make more creosote, but now that triple wall chimney pipe is a thing you see a lot less issues with that. The condensing effect, like a masonry chimney or single wall pipe, is greatly reduced.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 20:31
|
|
|
Pitchy wood can certainly burn clean, you just need to have a hotter fire with more air. Anyway, it's too cold outside right now in my mostly unheated garage for the little space heater to keep up. It's not so much that I can't work in the cold, but any gluing or finishing just won't work out there and I don't have a good space in my house to do that stuff without either making a mess, or a stink, or both. Even linseed oil doesn't really want to absorb much at all if the temp is hovering around freezing. So I'm making lists of projects that I'd like to do and just enjoying the chill and filling up my weekends with other stuff! I'd kinda like to make a couple adirondack chairs for my back yard. Anyone have any experience with those?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 20:52
|
|
|
CommonShore posted:
Tracksaw fits that category for me. GEMorris posted:So since spring last year I've been locked in house hunting/buying/repairing/selling/moving mode and haven't been able to do much woodworking that wasn't trim work. Congrats on the new shop, you finally have room for that table saw you've always wanted. Just kidding. Lathe stand looks awesome, good luck on figuring out your layout. I built a new saw bench, I intended to have it match my workbench with a painted base and bowling alley top. Turns out I used up all my orange milk paint so had to go straight blue. I can't believe the difference between straight blue and blue with an orange undercoat. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 21:04
|
|
|
Meow Meow Meow posted:Tracksaw fits that category for me. Man I'm picturing drawers for my bench EXACTLY like that with space on top of them both to put stuff and retain the ability to clamp to my bench top. How did you set up the drawer slides? Never done drawers before so still thinking about what way would be best.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 21:37
|
|
|
Bob Mundon posted:Man I'm picturing drawers for my bench EXACTLY like that with space on top of them both to put stuff and retain the ability to clamp to my bench top. It's a nice way to do it, I left enough room to use my holdfasts on something 1/4" thick. The drawer slides are side mount full extension ball bearing slides, maybe 18". The big box that all the drawers are in is 3/4" plywood pocket screwed together and it just sits on the bench stretchers. The drawers themselves are 1/2" plywood pocket screwed together, then a false front is screwed on to hide the plywood and the slides. The drawer bottoms are 1/4" plywood glued and stapled to the bottom of the drawer sides/front/back. Not what I'd do for a piece of furniture, but great for something like this. The drawer slides I bought needed 1/2" clearance per side, so it was just a matter of building the drawer boxes 1" smaller than the big box and screwing the slides on.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2022 23:19
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Is there something extra special about cedar? Because sappy softwood (fir, pine) is a very common firewood over here. It's mostly what I've burned in my heaters for the last decade or so without issues. As mentioned elsewhere, the sap builds up along the walls as creosote- which is a potential fire hazard. But, given the preponderance of those species in your area, you've probably got some sort of advanced afterburner wizardry like a car's catalytic heater to deal with it....
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 01:26
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:As mentioned elsewhere, the sap builds up along the walls as creosote- which is a potential fire hazard. But, given the preponderance of those species in your area, you've probably got some sort of advanced afterburner wizardry like a car's catalytic heater to deal with it.... You just get your chimney cleaned
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 01:52
|
|
|
El Spamo posted:So I'm making lists of projects that I'd like to do and just enjoying the chill and filling up my weekends with other stuff! I made a batch of 6 last summer; I used Norm’s plans because they make efficient use of common s4s sizes to minimize stock prep and ripping time. Made some templates out of MDF for the arms and curved slat and it was really fast. Probably spent as much time cutting and installing plugs as I did on the rest of the steps combined  . I don’t have a real router table, but I did screw my router into a piece of MDF for cleaning up the arms with a flush cut bit and rounding over all of the top edges. They seem to be holding up well after a year of sun/snow/rain… the white oak has gone gray (and one leg has a partial split near a knot) but no signs of rot. I’ll update y’all next year after I flip the slats. https://cdn.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/August_05_Norms_Adirondack.pdf
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 03:38
|
|
|
so apparently Sawstop cartridges will just fire off if it's damp enough out, at least so long as you're already coming up against a deadline. gonna have to start either keeping a bunch more backup parts habdy or running the thing in override mode a lot
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 03:45
|
|
|
El Spamo posted:About that finger joint jig though, I've tried to make one about... I dunno, three or four times now? Is there a trick for putting one together? Do you have an issue with the depth of the gap? I'll take it back. I could not get it consistent enough for the longer pieces. The router table only has one t-slot channel thing and it's just not stable enough. Then I asked at the front if they, by any chance had a dado stack and they went "why, of course!". Doh!. (I work out of a Makers Lab and they used to have virtually nothing, but it's become quite well equipped now). Spent the rest of the afternoon building a sturdy sled for the table saw, so I can repeat the experiment there. Also..fresh reminder to self to stop buying Homedepots super crappy plywood. Even their 'fancy' birch is the cheap poo poo with a nice veneer on top. I mean, holy tear out, Batman!. .
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 04:09
|
|
|
El Spamo posted:Pitchy wood can certainly burn clean, you just need to have a hotter fire with more air. I made a couple of adirondacks out of cedar, based on some free plans somewhere (they weren't Norm's, as I remember). Finish is five coats of spar varnish.   
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 06:07
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:I'll take it back. I could not get it consistent enough for the longer pieces. The router table only has one t-slot channel thing and it's just not stable enough. I noticed that at both Home Depot and Lowes, what kind of place stocks better? Cabinet shops must be getting the good stuff somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 14:14
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:As mentioned elsewhere, the sap builds up along the walls as creosote- which is a potential fire hazard. But, given the preponderance of those species in your area, you've probably got some sort of advanced afterburner wizardry like a car's catalytic heater to deal with it.... Just dry wood and giving the fire enough air for a clean burn really (in a masonry heater). And lighting from the top. I know I get a good burn when the fire gets hot enough that the walls are burned clean. Working principle here is similar to mine 
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 15:33
|
|
|
Oh yeah I finally finished that hifi shelf. Got the materials months ago but it just sat, I also just made it with butt joints instead of fingerjoints. I used shellac which I wiped on. I was going to go for a dark finish similar to the bookshelf. I am still experimenting with dark finishes on pine. I used ruby dewaxed shellac for this, but it turned out pretty darn light when I appled it with a rag.  The antenna arrangement is temporary. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Feb 6, 2022 |
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 17:45
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Just dry wood and giving the fire enough air for a clean burn really (in a masonry heater). And lighting from the top. I know I get a good burn when the fire gets hot enough that the walls are burned clean. I've got a franklin double wall stove, and hardwood here is abundant and cheap.(as firewood, not woodworking) Especially after ice storms the past few years. I was mainly going by what I'd been told re: softwood. I hereby post full retraction of said advice.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 17:47
|
|
|
Finished making a desk—took a lot longer than I thought it would mostly because of a bunch of little fiddly details for wire routing and poo poo. Mostly (clean) rock maple with a little bit of (dye stained) oak and pocket hole joinery because I'm a bum. Finished with a bunch of coats of water based poly.   Other than a few panels I warped by being a lazy idiot (mostly declamping too soon and not using cauls on a couple I thought were too small to run into trouble) and the fact that the cabinet doors are not attached because I ordered the wrong hinges it seems to hold stuff goodly. The cabinet part is supposed to store hanging files which I made the rails for by dadoing some extra bits of maple. The tolerances on hanging files are tighter than I expected if you're making the rails the full width of the notch (1/4") instead of the little thin ones you usually see. Probably would go more like 3/8ths if I did it again. Also pretty sure the handle on one of the cabinets is currently slightly crooked but I haven't decided how to fix it and I don't really want to bother until they doors are actually attached. His Divine Shadow posted:Got the materials months ago but it just sat, I also just made it with butt joints instead of fingerjoints. Looks nice! How did you join the butt joints? I don't see anything obvious in the pictures but wood glue on end grain freaks me out.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 19:04
|
|
|
That lit floral display is incredible and gorgeous It’s “lit” you might say
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 19:10
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Oh yeah I finally finished that hifi shelf. Don't those put out a ton of heat? I'd be worried about them overheating all tightly fitted like that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 19:55
|
|
|
I'll have to keep a check on it, I don't use them for very long at a time 5-10 minutes), they mostly sit turned off. I might have to make some vents on the back side to improve circulation if it's an issue. There is some room on all sides for air to circulate though. -- And yeah it's just butt joints with glue, I feel pretty OK about it. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Feb 6, 2022 |
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 20:02
|
|
|
Fortaleza posted:That lit floral display is incredible and gorgeous Thanks! More about that part of it in this thread over here about making poo poo what with plants and things. His Divine Shadow posted:And yeah it's just butt joints with glue, I feel pretty OK about it. This is how I've felt every time I've ever done butt joints with glue and then two months later I feel differently when they esplode.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 20:17
|
|
|
Built a track saw out of scrap plywood and some extra t track I have from my work bench. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 21:05
|
|
|
Wallet posted:Thanks! More about that part of it in this thread over here about making poo poo what with plants and things. It really looks cool, that's something I'll have to try at some point for sure. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Feb 6, 2022 |
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 21:12
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Oh yeah I finally finished that hifi shelf. Got the materials months ago but it just sat, I also just made it with butt joints instead of fingerjoints. I used shellac which I wiped on. I was going to go for a dark finish similar to the bookshelf. I am still experimenting with dark finishes on pine. I used ruby dewaxed shellac for this, but it turned out pretty darn light when I appled it with a rag. I would 100% be installing some nails or screws in those joints and adding some ventilation to that as well. Old hifi gear puts out a lot of heat and they need a good bit more than 1/4" of room around them to vent off via passive cooling. You have a good chance of some caps or a transistor or something exploding in there and starting an actual fire. Maybe cut some slits on the top and bottom in the back of the shelf where the air holes are in the outer case of the units. Option B is cutting a hole on either side of the units and between the divider at the rear and installing a small fan on either side to push air in and pull it out
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 21:40
|
|
|
Wallet posted:Finished making a desk—took a lot longer than I thought it would mostly because of a bunch of little fiddly details for wire routing and poo poo. Mostly (clean) rock maple with a little bit of (dye stained) oak and pocket hole joinery because I'm a bum. Finished with a bunch of coats of water based poly.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 21:44
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I quite like the exposed pocket screws. They work well as a decorative element and have a nice rhythm to them imo Yeah, I don't hate them. Trying to hide them without doing them backwards (facing toward the corner which is supposedly weaker) seems like it would be somewhere between headache and impossible so I just use a different wood (oak like the trim stuff in this case) and pretend they're decorative (which some of them are—the ones on top of the cabinet are just there for symmetry and have no screws in them because I wanted the top to be removable). I messed around with dying the plugs but having them be a significantly different color makes any imperfections jump right out and I didn't want to try and gently caress with dying filler.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2022 23:10
|
|
|
Bob Mundon posted:I noticed that at both Home Depot and Lowes, what kind of place stocks better? Cabinet shops must be getting the good stuff somewhere. I actually have a decent local plywood shop, but they only have full 4x8 sheets and don't always have time to cut them down. Prices are lower and quality higher and I should just have taken the time to go there for this, but I was in a hurry and HD *is* way more convenient.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2022 00:38
|
|
|
Find a place that sells 5x5 sheets. I don’t think lovely 5x5 sheets exist.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2022 01:08
|
|
|
More adventures in box joints: So, using a dado stack made this a million times easier. No fighting holding the material, no tear out, etc and way more consistent cuts. It was as easy as they show in the videos. Then, of course, when cutting a dado with my router for the bottom, the router bit slipped and cut all the way through!. doh! Not a huge loss as I could just cut 1/2" off the bottom of all the pieces, but still.... ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 07:51 on Feb 7, 2022 |
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2022 06:23
|
|
|
Mederlock posted:I would 100% be installing some nails or screws in those joints and adding some ventilation to that as well. Old hifi gear puts out a lot of heat and they need a good bit more than 1/4" of room around them to vent off via passive cooling. You have a good chance of some caps or a transistor or something exploding in there and starting an actual fire. Maybe cut some slits on the top and bottom in the back of the shelf where the air holes are in the outer case of the units. Option B is cutting a hole on either side of the units and between the divider at the rear and installing a small fan on either side to push air in and pull it out I might do dowels of a contrasting color, need to make a suitable pantorouter jig for that first though. Though I've had good luck with butt joints like this before. I was thinking of routing slits on the top of the backside. Warm air would produce a draft rise out the slits, which draws new air in the front. Or so I imagine it, it can also rise out the front If I felt fans were needed I'd probably install them inside the units themselves, they got space on the inside for that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2022 07:31
|
|
|
I've got a wooden mirror frame that got slightly damaged during a move. The mirror is fine, but the frame itself has some cracks and the corners must have gotten scraped because they're showing bare wood in places I can just use some wood glue to seal this up and stain it, but is there a better way? As for staining, should I sand and restain the entire piece to make sure that the color is consistent, or should I try to match the color and stain the parts that don't look right?
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2022 09:41
|
|
|
Wallet posted:Thanks! More about that part of it in this thread over here about making poo poo what with plants and things. I've been meaning to comment on it and I'm glad you posted here its fuckin amazing, great work
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2022 17:02
|
|
|
Oh, I have a question about stains. I really like colored stains like blue, black, green, and purple and such if I'm going to stain things, since if I want a natural wood color I'll use a wood of the appropriate shade and oil it. One thing I haven't quite managed yet is staining pieces of wood prior to gluing them in because the usual next step after a glue-up is to sand things to take care of the little bumps and squeeze-outs. So something like a stained-green peg or spline, or (I would love this) a chess board with brightly colored squares, is something on my list of to-dos. Is there a good process for doing this that preserves the color between sanding? Do I need to pre-sand and then be ULTRA precise with cuts and gluing? Does stain penetrate deep enough into the wood to tolerate sanding without losing too much color? Or should I assemble everything and finish sanding, and then mask off and stain the sections I want a particular color?
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2022 17:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 15:06 |
|
|
This guy on YouTube does alot of staining guitar bodies with leather dyes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHAvvMftSOI A lot of it will sand off but some will penetrate into the wood and stay depends on if the wood grain is figured . You have to get good with tape'n and scrape'n.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2022 19:48
|
|
