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I can confirm the nozzle is like 1mm lower then the probe. so i can use it for now in a pinch. Z=0 and i could not get a bunch of feeler guages under the nozzle, but slid under the probe easy. i say a bunch because they kept sticking to the magnetic plate and i forgot to look at the size. I don;t see how my ab motor wires will go into the zip chain, unless they stick out a random part.. but that will get messy as my z goes up and down. I have to watch as my a motor has a wire loose in the connector or something, and if it goes out, the motor just doesnt turn / loses steps compared to the other and i get problems.
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Mar 2, 2022 03:17
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Bondematt posted:Is there a way to change the...aggressiveness of a mesh? Play with where the probe is hitting. it looks like the bed is starting to go down, but the mesh is interpreting that as a huge cliff. Make sure your hit closer to the right side with your actual probing.
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Mar 2, 2022 03:19
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Roundboy posted:Play with where the probe is hitting. it looks like the bed is starting to go down, but the mesh is interpreting that as a huge cliff. Make sure your hit closer to the right side with your actual probing. That's the fun part, there is a cliff. It's like a solid 0.2mm drop there over like half an inch, maybe less? I just don't print on the right side of the bed ever. I have the same issue if I exclude that side completely and limit the bed to like 165mm on the X axis. The cliff starts around 180-185 Realized I forgot the bed mesh settings itself: code:Bondematt fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Mar 2, 2022 |
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Mar 2, 2022 03:23
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Roundboy posted:I can confirm the nozzle is like 1mm lower then the probe. so i can use it for now in a pinch. Z=0 and i could not get a bunch of feeler guages under the nozzle, but slid under the probe easy. i say a bunch because they kept sticking to the magnetic plate and i forgot to look at the size. Ill take a pic of my routing in a bit, but if you have loose wires in a stepper you should either redo the connector if it had one, or replace your broken motor.
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Mar 2, 2022 03:42
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deong posted:I'll check. I was against the purchase as it feels like over kill for my group, so I checked out on the discussions. But since its a resource I have the ability to learn, I'm getting onboard. The Makerbot software pushes you to use their online cloud print now. I have both now and have been playing with both suites. That’s weird and a bummer. I might have a good grip on documentation since it’s an entry level enterprise printer. If you need a hand getting in touch or figuring out how to get what you need, I’m happy to help. They’re great machines if you’re taking advantage of the neater materials or soluble supports, overkill for most of the other stuff.
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Mar 2, 2022 03:43
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Dr. Despair posted:Ill take a pic of my routing in a bit, but if you have loose wires in a stepper you should either redo the connector if it had one, or replace your broken motor. No loose in the connector I made to take the motor wires to the harness. That plus the bed thermosor gets wonky when I move stuff around. All solved by solid pins and solid wire mounts behind it. Stuff should not be moving that much. I give up on the sexy routing people have, and those wire channels, I just can't fit them. Nice crisp zipties arr my jam now. I just don't have the extra to make nice right angle turns Bondematt posted:That's the fun part, there is a cliff. It's like a solid 0.2mm drop there over like half an inch, maybe less? I just don't print on the right side of the bed ever. Fix the cliff? Is your bed wonky? Or the magnetic plate? Why not try and pinpoint where the dropoff starts and put a bit of blue tape or aluminum foil in a strip front to back.. bump that dip right up And a .. 2 dio should be compensated for in the mesh. Are you sure that the end of the mesh is the end of the bed and not interpolation past the actual bed size? Add a thin strip of tape to the very end a few mm wide. See where your new ridge actually appears Roundboy fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Mar 2, 2022 |
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Mar 2, 2022 04:55
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Roundboy, just checking, you're not putting the wires from the stepper into a flexing chain right? You're specifically flexing automation cable, FFC, or high-stand count PTFE/ETFE/FEP *only*?
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Mar 2, 2022 07:53
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insta posted:Roundboy, just checking, you're not putting the wires from the stepper into a flexing chain right? You're specifically flexing automation cable, FFC, or high-stand count PTFE/ETFE/FEP *only*? Correct. All wires are ptfe, etc. I cut the a/b motors short and tied them to the linneo harness wires The only wires in the whole system not silicone/ptfe are my z steppers which are underneath and not flexing, and my uart jumpers on the pi to the btt Even though I crimped them the exact same, there just seems to be a wonky connection on just one of the 4 stepper wires as in I can pull it from the connector (harness side). It's on my Punch list to fix up after I take care of the toolhead stuff I'll be printing this weekend, thinking of my overall budget for my 30 sec serial request.
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Mar 2, 2022 13:02
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I’m replacing the magnetic adhesive sheet on my Mars Pro’s build plate, any tips for (re-)prepping & cleaning the surface? Not sure what solvent I can use to get rid of the adhesive residue, seeing as it’s not soluble in alcohol and is otherwise indicated as relatively solvent-resistant. 3M 9448A, for the record. I’m fine with just lapping the plate a bit with sandpaper on a glass sheet, especially if giving it a little bit more tooth will help the replacement adhesive stick better than the last magnet pad did. The stock build surface has a fairly fine fly-cut surface, assumably to help prints release, but that probably hinders achieving a permanent adhesive bond. Not sure what grit to finish with, though. Also- I’m having a lot of trouble locally sourcing magnetic sheet with the same adhesive and a comparable magnetic flux for future replacements, I have to buy extra steel flex plates to get the new magnetic pad right now. is there any reason I can’t just get a flexplate for a larger FDM printer and chop the magnetic sheet up? I could get 6 slightly-undersized Mars Pro magnets from a single Ender 3 flexplate kit, for the cost of less than two resin flexplate replacements, so it starts saving money if I have at least one or two more magnet failures in the future. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Mar 2, 2022 |
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Mar 2, 2022 16:30
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Printed a pla benchy to make sure I wasn't crazy and it was fine. Back to ABS and the same failure at around 8mm. I watched it and I noticed the cooling fan was off, so I need to investigate that more. Otherwise I'm out of ideas. There was some lifting at the prow and stern off the plate last time around even with a brim, so I cleaned my plate again, air dry so no possible oil contamination. No lifting this time, but still the same horrible hull line.   
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Mar 3, 2022 00:34
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Vaporware posted:Printed a pla benchy to make sure I wasn't crazy and it was fine. Print in an enclosure? Abs notoriously sucks poo poo to print unless you baby it
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Mar 3, 2022 01:19
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I'd try more cooling fan and a lower extrusion multiplier (looks almost like it's piling up when it's trying to fill in the top deck of the boat?)
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Mar 3, 2022 01:43
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I just want to print sweet glow in the dark stuff, but I also feel like if I can't figure this one out I should just stick the the kiddie pool  w00tmonger posted:Print in an enclosure? Abs notoriously sucks poo poo to print unless you baby it Yeah, I rebuilt my lack enclosure to close some lazy assembly gaps and it is up to ~39C by that layer. Dr. Despair posted:I'd try more cooling fan and a lower extrusion multiplier (looks almost like it's piling up when it's trying to fill in the top deck of the boat?) Yeah, when it hit that layer the cooling turned off and that top layer was laid down really droopy, then started piling up on the next layer. I watched outside perimeter just fall off, which maybe could be the lack of cooling fan, shrinking lower layers, and overextrusion. I was watching the hotend temp and it wasn't overshooting, it was solid at 260. I calibrated the extrusion multiplier just this morning, and it went to 1. I can try putting it back at 0.95 from my last calibration.
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Mar 3, 2022 02:17
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Which abs? Maybe it's just a bit outside of a makeshift enclosure and temps to print, meaning it needs more constant temps Hatchbox abs @230-235 and 100 bed has been a champ for me. I think I did recently add 20% cooling and while not perfect, it's functional. Especially considering I refuse to tune it further,, as this printer is just a stop gap to the 'real' one As for glow in the dark I love my glow in the dark pla+ but it really needs a solid charging to get a good green glow. But it's solid and strong like nothing else
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Mar 3, 2022 02:23
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Microcenter/Inland ABS, no real discerning features other than the 220-260C label. I have some hatchbox black ABS I can break out and compare if you think it's worth the time? It takes about 30min to reach the failure point in the benchy and that's the most annoying part of troubleshooting this.
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Mar 3, 2022 02:27
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Vaporware posted:I just want to print sweet glow in the dark stuff, but I also feel like if I can't figure this one out I should just stick the the kiddie pool You're using a hardened nozzle right?
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Mar 3, 2022 03:45
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It's probably best not to assume new folks to the thread are fully aware of everything, so let's just state that some filaments are abrasive and the brass nozzles that are normally used by 3d printers will be damaged during use. The biggest culprit is carbon fiber fill, but glow in the dark filaments and presumably glass fiber can also do it. I've heard wood fill can be abrasive too but I don't know how much compared to the others. CF at least can damage a nozzle in less than half a spool. CNC Kitchen has a video about it and a blog with the still pictures of the wear: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvlMeTnjriQ https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/how-much-abrasive-filaments-damage-your-nozzle That doesn't mean that this is the issue with your ABS prints, but your nozzle is probably wearing as you print as well. Hardened steel nozzles cost a little more and aren't as good with thermals as brass so you may need to run them a little bit hotter, but are available for almost all hotends. There's also ruby nozzles with an industrial ruby on the end with a nozzle sized hole in it but I always thought that seemed gimmicky since there's no guarantee that you won't have a failure somewhere besides the nozzle hole that causes you to want a new nozzle Rexxed fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Mar 3, 2022 |
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Mar 3, 2022 04:47
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yeah ime wood-fill filament causes dramatically more wear than usual, running a couple small parts caused more wear-related issues than putting a couple entire kilos of standard PLA through beforehand did. idk how it stacks up to CF/etc, though. if you're gonna run much of anything even halfway abrasive i would either go with a premium hardened nozzle or have a couple cheap brass replacements on hand before you start b/c it can cause issues surprisingly fast.
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Mar 3, 2022 05:32
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Dr. Despair posted:I'd try more cooling fan and a lower extrusion multiplier (looks almost like it's piling up when it's trying to fill in the top deck of the boat?) --edit: Vaporware posted:I calibrated the extrusion multiplier just this morning, and it went to 1. I can try putting it back at 0.95 from my last calibration.
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Mar 3, 2022 06:46
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I fired one last print off before bed last night and it was one or both of those changes that fixed it.  I needed "fan always on" checked and I lowered the extrusion multiplier to 0.95. Last calibration cube I printed had around .46-47 mm thick walls, and it's supposed to be .45 so I of course got that backwards the first time I mathed it out. 1.05 multiplier made it overextrude worse, I should have been lower than 1. It's supposed to be 0.45/(avg of 4 side thickness) (for prusa's wacky perimeter calcs only btw) Now that the cube walls won't warp as badly with the fan running I'll recalibrate to find the filament's actual multiplier and reprint. Vaporware fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Mar 3, 2022 |
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Mar 3, 2022 13:49
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I’m replacing the magnetic adhesive sheet on my Mars Pro’s build plate, any tips for (re-)prepping & cleaning the surface? Double post but I've been thinking about this one. Have you tried goof-off / oil based solvents? It's two stages since you need to degrease the underside after but often those super tacky glues are vulnerable to glue removal citric acid/oil combos. Re- cutting the magnet mat, just use a very fresh xacto blade and a good steel straight edge. You may even need to lubricate the cutting edge to prevent it sticking, it can bind up and ruin your cut. Try the first cut dry, magnet side up. If you can score the magnet before a second pass trying to cut the adhesive you will have an easier time. If you have access to a huge guillotine paper cutter that would work too, as long as the blade has enough flex for the thickness. It won't be perfectly straight since the cut will be pulled outward as the blade moves along. There are plans for razor guillotine / choppers that use those long snap off hobby knives. Those would work best, but tool investment might not be where you want to put your energy.
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Mar 3, 2022 14:45
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I’m replacing the magnetic adhesive sheet on my Mars Pro’s build plate, any tips for (re-)prepping & cleaning the surface? Not sure what solvent I can use to get rid of the adhesive residue, seeing as it’s not soluble in alcohol and is otherwise indicated as relatively solvent-resistant. 3M 9448A, for the record. I’m fine with just lapping the plate a bit with sandpaper on a glass sheet, especially if giving it a little bit more tooth will help the replacement adhesive stick better than the last magnet pad did. The stock build surface has a fairly fine fly-cut surface, assumably to help prints release, but that probably hinders achieving a permanent adhesive bond. Not sure what grit to finish with, though. A little late now, but for Mars printers, it’s a lot cheaper and has easier workflow to just buy a second build plate.
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Mar 4, 2022 19:06
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Doctor Zero posted:A little late now, but for Mars printers, it’s a lot cheaper and has easier workflow to just buy a second build plate. I think I'll do this, yeah, although more to have one "stock" build plate available, and one mounting a magnet for the flexplate. I really like the ease of deplating and surface finish flexplates offer, but (as I'm now running into) flexplates are poorly-compatible with some print geometries, particularly prints covering most of the build plate that generate a lot of warping strain. which my big blocky casting molds often are. Flexplates also seem to cause more deformation/warping in successful prints, I think the steel sheet can lift off or shift a bit when suction forces are sufficiently high. I'm going to replace the failed magnetic sheet on my original build plate, gonna degrease and abrade with a scotchbrite pad so the adhesive takes- but yeah, I'll also grab a second entire build plate for doing my big tooling prints that give the flexplate system indigestion. I never found deplating without a flexplate all that inconvenient to begin with tbh. also I have multiple flexplates so I can still swap prints out into the wash tub process quick n easy Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Mar 4, 2022 |
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Mar 4, 2022 21:32
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E3D has a patent for loving about with the filament path using a "non-circular cross-section" to speed up melting. I guess that's what their future high flow nozzle will be for the Revo. https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/c7/85/46/dc40eaf9e62997/WO2021205174A1.pdf
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Mar 4, 2022 21:33
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funny, when i'm soldering i always hammer the first inch or two of round solder wire into a flattened ribbon specifically to, yeah, create a more thermally-accomodating profile that speeds the initial melt/puddle formation. works a treat. nice to see industry catching up to the Old Ways 
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Mar 4, 2022 |
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Mar 4, 2022 21:37
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I think I'll do this, yeah, although more to have one "stock" build plate available, and one mounting a magnet for the flexplate. I really like the ease of deplating and surface finish flexplates offer, but (as I'm now running into) flexplates are poorly-compatible with some print geometries, particularly prints covering most of the build plate that generate a lot of warping strain. which my big blocky casting molds often are. Flexplates also seem to cause more deformation/warping in successful prints, I think the steel sheet can lift off or shift a bit when suction forces are sufficiently high. If you have one with and one without the flex plate, won't you have to re-zero when you switch them?
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Mar 4, 2022 21:59
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Bucnasti posted:If you have one with and one without the flex plate, won't you have to re-zero when you switch them? …yes, good call. Probably have to remove the optical switch shim too, unless the spring loaded bed thing has enough slack to work with or without a build plate, which i haven’t tested. i still think it’s worth having the option, i primarily print things that damage flexplate installations and i can’t easily print them off the bed without mold quality suffering unacceptably. if i don’t have the option to lose the flexplate i think i’ll inevitably fly too close to the sun designwise and continue popping the magnet sheets off
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Mar 4, 2022 22:17
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in other news, i finally discovered how far i can push ST Sculpt Ultra before it fails from overheating. rip the 3d printed metal casting ladle, you were too beautiful for this world   it worked for a little bit being dipped into the melt pot and used to pour into molds, but i made it way too thin given the mechanical strain it’d be subject to near its maximum working temperature, i turned the pot up 20 degrees and went for another dip and the ladle just started crumbling once it was full of heavy metal. in retrospect i’m surprised it worked at all so close to giving up the ghost tempwise. maybe a beefier ladle with some ribbing and structural reinforcement might be viable, but ehhhh i don’t think it’s worth pursuing when there’s a whole world of thrift store soup ladles out there e: also, i want some colour-matching tips for using pigments to tweak resin colours, specifically making white look like bone. here’s a parrot skull printed in ST Sculpt Ultra White, next to an actual skull for comparison. Ultra makes very nice, fine-textured modelling resin and in particular has a touch of nice bone-like translucency, but it’s just too white to be a plausible substitute.  i have CMYK pigments, but am not sure what to try beyond a tiiiny dash of yellow. maybe some magenta too? e^2: here’s another tool i made for resin printing, i call it a Curing Lance:  it’s used for directly UV post-curing hollow prints from the inside out, to improve the stability and practical lifespan of hollowed prints. it’s pretty straightforward, just a wee small 0603 UV led epoxied in the ground-flat tip of a 16ga hollow steel needle, with the wire leads fed through and out the bottom to the rest of the circuit. I’ve seen people try pushing these LEDs into print cavities by their wire leads, but it isn’t really a practical way of interior curing, the LEDs get stuck constantly and are difficult to maneuver inside, etc. This approach packages the LED up into a delicate and precise tool that lets you quickly and easily apply curing UV deep inside a part through a hole as small as 1.6mm. I think I’ll design + print a bespoke electronics housing for it to create a proper self-contained and ergonomic tool, give the needle tip a little handpiece with a battery and switch and indicator lights. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Mar 4, 2022 |
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Mar 4, 2022 22:25
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Has anyone been able to get Bondtech’s vanadium nozzles working with copperfill filament? No matter what settings I’ve tried I’ve always ended up either having the nozzle clog or fail to put down the first layer at all.
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Mar 5, 2022 03:21
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Man, it seems like sometimes I’ll go a month or two without touching the printer at all, and then suddenly I’m on it all day every day. Anyhow, really pleased with how some storage caddies for my lathe tooling & accessories is coming together. Couldn’t stand the parts hanging out loose in the drawer.     I have another of the tool holder trays on the way, in yet another color. Willfully going for the clown aesthetic on my color selection here.
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Mar 5, 2022 04:34
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Talorat posted:Has anyone been able to get Bondtech’s vanadium nozzles working with copperfill filament? No matter what settings I’ve tried I’ve always ended up either having the nozzle clog or fail to put down the first layer at all. I just got some copperfill copper and printed a benchy with the standard cheap-o .4 nozzle that comes in 10 packs. the top and bottom layers were a bit thin but overall it came out okay as a test.. def needs some tweaking though
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Mar 5, 2022 04:50
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Huh maybe I should I just try burning through some brass nozzles and seeing if that fixes it.
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Mar 5, 2022 05:18
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Filled filaments need lower temps, fatter layers, and slower speeds. Try 210C, 0.2 layers, and limit your extruder to 4mm^3/s, with an M2 or A2 nozzle at 0.4.
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Mar 5, 2022 05:35
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Bad Munki posted:Man, it seems like sometimes I’ll go a month or two without touching the printer at all, and then suddenly I’m on it all day every day. Nice! I like the little filament-as-indicator holes next to the bits.
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Mar 5, 2022 05:37
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csammis posted:Nice! I like the little filament-as-indicator holes next to the bits. It’s actually just fluorescent paint glopped in there  Your idea probably would have worked better though. :/
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Mar 5, 2022 05:44
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I was going to say the dots are a real nice touch. (Filament bits seem like a decent way to do that, too. As long as you get the end nice and flat.)
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Mar 5, 2022 09:39
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Bad Munki posted:Man, it seems like sometimes I’ll go a month or two without touching the printer at all, and then suddenly I’m on it all day every day. Oh, those are pretty slick. I got a toolkit recently that's all quite nice except for the plastic insert that keeps the screw bits organized, which is made from the flimsiest plastic possible. I want to print a replacement for it that it'll still fit in the same place, but it looks like it'll need actual design work, so I haven't gotten around to it...
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Mar 5, 2022 14:38
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*looks at all my unorganized tools and bits* *looks at my farm of 3d printers* *wonders why it never occurred to me to make my own organizers until seeing that post* 
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Mar 5, 2022 15:52
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Just got my ender 3 V2 and initial benchy came out great. I was expecting more fiddling involved tbh. This is the first time I've done a 3d print since working with some stratasys powder devices more than a decade ago. And I'm excited to print some tool organizers myself.
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Mar 5, 2022 15:58
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Doctor Zero posted:*looks at all my unorganized tools and bits* Ditto, but for all of my random tools that currently sit in Bags of Mystery in my cupboard. I wonder if scanning them to a PNG and importing that into Autodesk would be the quickest and easiest way of creating holders? Time to have a play, I think.
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Mar 5, 2022 16:13
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