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Fuzzy McDoom posted:I tried simply slotting it back into place but unsurprisingly the nails just slide right out of the holes they already fell out of. I've been watching videos about molding installation, but the first problem is that they all cover starting from scratch rather than repairs, and the second is that most seem to rely upon a pressurized mini-nailgun. Since my molding is still somewhat in place and not falling to the floor, I was hoping that perhaps some wood glue would be adequate to keep things generally where they're supposed to be? Any advice on low-cost methods to just stick this thing back in place would be greatly appreciated Glue (and some clamps to hold it together while the glue sets) will work, at the cost of the moulding being a pain to remove if/when demolition happens. Replacing the nails with screws would also work but might be aesthetically displeasing. Putting new nails in in different places, and then optionally covering the old nails with putty, is the "right" answer from an aesthetics and removability standpoint but may require time/skills you don't have. You don't need a pressurized nailgun, by the way -- you can install trim nails with a hammer and a nail set, which is basically a blunt needle that you use to push the nail head below the surface of the moulding. It takes some practice though.
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Mar 13, 2022 17:41
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Glue (and some clamps to hold it together while the glue sets) will work, at the cost of the moulding being a pain to remove if/when demolition happens. Replacing the nails with screws would also work but might be aesthetically displeasing. Putting new nails in in different places, and then optionally covering the old nails with putty, is the "right" answer from an aesthetics and removability standpoint but may require time/skills you don't have. You don't need a pressurized nailgun, by the way -- you can install trim nails with a hammer and a nail set, which is basically a blunt needle that you use to push the nail head below the surface of the moulding. It takes some practice though. Any guidance on the types of clamp you're talking about? I saw masking tape being used on Youtube for holding things while glue sets but the context may have been different. After this advice I am strongly leaning towards the glue route because I honestly do not foresee removal ever happening and really don't want to invest time in learning techniques.
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Mar 13, 2022 17:53
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Fuzzy McDoom posted:Any guidance on the types of clamp you're talking about? I saw masking tape being used on Youtube for holding things while glue sets but the context may have been different. After this advice I am strongly leaning towards the glue route because I honestly do not foresee removal ever happening and really don't want to invest time in learning techniques. Use wood glue or white glue. Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly and finish with an alcohol wipe-down. It'll all be lightly greasy from normal kitchen use. Use the glue extremely sparingly . Dot some on each nail hole, and dot small dots a few inches apart along the run. Use tape to hold it in place if you don't have clamps, & leave to dry overnight. The idea is to secure it so it doesn't loosen again or fall, but not to use so much adhesive that it can't be popped off non-destructively in the future.
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Mar 13, 2022 18:15
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Rip it off in a rage. Fashion it into a blade. Use it to exact your campaign of revenge culminating in the destruction of the contractor responsible.
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Mar 13, 2022 18:27
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PainterofCrap posted:Use wood glue or white glue. With this pieces both being finished in that ubiquitous modern semi-faux polished wood, I think something like gorilla glue is going to work better here. Apply it in a thin film and keep pressure for however long the bottle says.
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Mar 13, 2022 18:29
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actionjackson posted:I have a painted, textured (popcorn, thankfully pretty mild) ceiling, and I'm in a condo with someone living above me. If I had someone take out the texture and then skim coat, repaint, etc. would this affect the amount of noise I can hear above me at all? I know textured ceilings have some acoustical properties. You may find that installing a new layer of 1/4-inch drywall over the existing finish will be less painful than trying to remove the existing texture.
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Mar 13, 2022 18:35
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Fuzzy McDoom posted:Any guidance on the types of clamp you're talking about? I saw masking tape being used on Youtube for holding things while glue sets but the context may have been different. After this advice I am strongly leaning towards the glue route because I honestly do not foresee removal ever happening and really don't want to invest time in learning techniques. Pretty much anything will work, because you don't need a ton of pressure. You just have to hold the two surfaces together until the glue sets. If you don't have any clamps, and don't have any interest in woodworking or construction, I'd probably get some cheap spring clamps, something like these. Just make sure they can open wide enough to grip both sides of what you're gluing.
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Mar 13, 2022 19:39
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Moving into my first steel stud place and looking for a recommendation for toggle anchors, which I understand are basically what you want to be using. Anyone have favorites? Thanks.
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Mar 13, 2022 23:25
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Is there a "how do I best clean this thing" megathread? Couldn't find one so posting here. How do I keep my stainless kitchen sink from getting gross looking?
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Mar 14, 2022 02:17
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Red Robin Hood posted:Is there a "how do I best clean this thing" megathread? Couldn't find one so posting here. Bar keepers friend
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Mar 14, 2022 03:11
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devicenull posted:Bar keepers friend Absolutely this. Also, sponges are things you throw away regularly and should buy in big packs. Melamine foam (i.e magic eraser) is great also to buy in big packs for cleaning sinks and other things. Just don't buy a brand name because it's like $6 for one as opposed to $20 for 50.
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Mar 14, 2022 03:25
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devicenull posted:Bar keepers friend I bought some of that and will give it a try. Thanks!
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Mar 14, 2022 03:25
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Motronic posted:Melamine foam (i.e magic eraser) is great also to buy in big packs for cleaning sinks and other things. Just don't buy a brand name because it's like $6 for one as opposed to $20 for 50. Also, wear gloves when you use these. They look like sponges, but they're abrasive and you can drat near sand your loving fingerprints off if you're not careful. It suuuuuucks.
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Mar 14, 2022 08:22
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Also, for anything that really doesn't want to come off (like rust spots or chemical staining), a green scotchbrite pad will work really well, although be aware it'll also absolutely take the shine off of a shiny metal finish, so I only use it on "brushed steel" or on my sink which is 50 years old and has acquired a brushed steel look just from long use.
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Mar 14, 2022 20:05
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We are renting a condo right now, and we heard some mice in the kitchen last night. I moved the stove to find that the gas pipe is literally just run through a hole knocked in the drywall. The hole is about twice the diameter of the pipe. There’s a collection of mouse poop on the ground next to the hole. What’s the best way to mouse-proof this? I don’t want to gently caress up the gas pipe and end up suffocating or exploding.
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Mar 15, 2022 16:34
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secular woods sex posted:We are renting a condo right now, and we heard some mice in the kitchen last night. I moved the stove to find that the gas pipe is literally just run through a hole knocked in the drywall. The hole is about twice the diameter of the pipe. There’s a collection of mouse poop on the ground next to the hole. You can get steel wool that is meant for filling holes like this. Look up "rodent steel wool".
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Mar 15, 2022 16:39
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Cyril Sneer posted:Thanks, interesting. You mentioned you used it for heat blocking, but did you find it helped reduce outside noise as well? Yeah, but I couldn't give you any measured numbers. In my case, it feels like quite a bit, because single pane windows block effectively nil in the way of sound, especially mine with no seals to speak of and crispy glass retaining strips... As noted by a TooMuchAbstaction, acoustical tiles are more about absorbing echoes than sound transmission. Blocking sound transmission is usually accomplished via mass. The foam will help, though, just because glass by itself is poop at blocking sound unless it's pretty thick. Double-pane glass with an air gap does a fair job because of the air gap. actionjackson posted:I have a painted, textured (popcorn, thankfully pretty mild) ceiling, and I'm in a condo with someone living above me. If I had someone take out the texture and then skim coat, repaint, etc. would this affect the amount of noise I can hear above me at all? I know textured ceilings have some acoustical properties. Not really. Like acoustical tile, the popcorn is more about controlling echoes. Arsenic Lupin posted:Does anybody know if they still make kitchen-use smoke detectors that have a pause function? Years ago, I was able to buy a kitchen smoke detector that had a button I could hit to turn off detection for 5 minutes. This meant that I had time to air out the kitchen before the smoke detector started beeping again. Right now, we're taking out batteries, then replacing them after supper, which is a much much worse decision safety-wise. The new ones I just put in have a pause, as did the 3-year-old ones they replaced. Both pairs were common brands - First Alert or Kidde, something like that. FWIW, I also ended up moving one further from the kitchen, as recommended by the instructions. It was literally above the doorway into the kitchen, and would go off even if there wasn't visible smoke, the new one slightly less so, but would still go off.
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Mar 15, 2022 18:02
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Imbroglio posted:You can get steel wool that is meant for filling holes like this. Look up "rodent steel wool". Uh there is special steel wool for that? I've just always used wtvr is cheapest at the store.
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Mar 15, 2022 22:08
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Rakeris posted:Uh there is special steel wool for that? I've just always used wtvr is cheapest at the store. There is not, it's just packaging. And price.
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Mar 15, 2022 22:14
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Yeah it's the same poo poo in different shapes. And now that I think about it, the stuff that's marketed for keeping out mice is kind of a pain in the rear end to work with because you have to cut it up and you get a mess of little splintery metal bits. Regular steel wool would probably be easier. Thanks for opening my eyes lol.
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Mar 15, 2022 22:40
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What's the way to dispose of old half-used cans of spray foam? You know, where the foam's solidified into the nozzle so you can't actually spray the stuff anywhere but there's still pressure in there that would result in a mess if it wound up in a garbage truck?
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Mar 15, 2022 23:42
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The way I used to do it when I was younger was to take it out in the field and plink at it with a .22 but I suspect your city could tell you more about safe and responsible disposal, probably involving taking it to a hazmat dropoff.
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Mar 15, 2022 23:45
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Phanatic posted:What's the way to dispose of old half-used cans of spray foam? You know, where the foam's solidified into the nozzle so you can't actually spray the stuff anywhere but there's still pressure in there that would result in a mess if it wound up in a garbage truck? I had a year old can with a hardened nozzle , and it started working again after I cut a couple inches off the straw. If you can do that, just spray it into a grocery bag or something.
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Mar 16, 2022 00:13
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Maybe a plumbing question but it’s pretty basic. My kitchen tap is wiggly and hard to turn off from the hot water side. The bolts securing it to the counter are tight. Here’s a video with sound: https://imgur.com/a/Kw3zz7E My landlord won’t answer his texts so that won’t work. What do I do to fix this?
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Mar 16, 2022 03:17
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tuyop posted:Maybe a plumbing question but it’s pretty basic. That's the cheapest LowesDepot faucet possible and there is no real repair option. It needs to be replaced with another $20 faucet.
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Mar 16, 2022 03:41
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Motronic posted:That's the cheapest LowesDepot faucet possible and there is no real repair option. It needs to be replaced with another $20 faucet. Looks like a delta or peerless to me. Are the plastic nuts that Tighten the faucet to the counter just loose? Reach under and see if you can Tighten them up by hand.
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Mar 16, 2022 04:44
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my turn in the barrel posted:Looks like a delta or peerless to me. If it's not a Glacier Bay then it's the Glacier Bay version of one of those (or some other one) sold in a big box store. And yes, it's falling off of the countertop. Because: tuyop posted:hard to turn off from the hot water side. Good luck finding parts. And with this information: tuyop posted:The bolts securing it to the counter are tight. It probably means the particle board counter top is bad also. Probably from the cheap faucet leaking into it. I really hope someone else has something more helpful, but this doesn't look like a reasonably solvable condition to me as far as a renter goes. I've been there.
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Mar 16, 2022 04:54
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I can read the DELTA brand at the bottom center of the faucet base. I think the faucet mount is loose, perhaps due to degrading the countertop as you said, perhaps it just needs the plastic ring under the counter tightened. I think probably also the seal inside the faucet is toast, and that may be a replaceable part. I agree however that just replacing the entire faucet will be cheaper than paying a plumber to try to fix that faucet. Note that the faucet base should have been sealed with some plumber's putty when it was installed, to keep water from intruding around the edges, and if that was ever done, that putty is long gone. Any time you drill down through lovely particle board countertop you need to seal around that opening to keep spills from soaking into the mushboard and permanently loving it.
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Mar 16, 2022 05:02
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Leperflesh posted:I can read the DELTA brand at the bottom center of the faucet base. You know what I mean here. It's not a Delta, it's a big box store bargain Delta SKU. Those are not the same thing. I remember that exact faucet shape/form from the builder grade poo poo 10+ years ago. None of those are meant to be serviceable. Everything that can be plastic was made out of plastic. Including the parts that aren't common stock replaceable. The real issue here is the counter top.
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Mar 16, 2022 05:14
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How do you properly clean grout in a shower? I never had much luck at my old house keeping it not moldy looking, and the new house has white grout...
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Mar 16, 2022 13:59
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Thanks for all the help about the faucet. I guess I’ll try reaching out to the landlord even harder. 
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Mar 16, 2022 15:07
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Suburban Dad posted:How do you properly clean grout in a shower? I never had much luck at my old house keeping it not moldy looking, and the new house has white grout... First, get a good stiff bristle brush and/or scrubbie (green plastic foam style) Spray bleach/tile cleaner. Spray it on & let it sit for a full, actual minute. Then scrub the grout line. Ri8nse. If that doesn't work, buy a grout chaser. Looks like a boxcutter, but has a composition-coated blade. Lightly run it up & down the grout line & rinse. If the mold's behind caulk (not grout, but caulk), the caulk has to be torn out, and the area underneath cleaned, & caulk reapplied.
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Mar 16, 2022 15:55
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Is there a good brush head for a multi-tool like above? Scrubbiing motions are difficult for me because of my wrists and because i'm lazy and hate doing it.
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Mar 16, 2022 17:22
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Deviant posted:Is there a good brush head for a multi-tool like above? Scrubbiing motions are difficult for me because of my wrists and because i'm lazy and hate doing it. I bought a set of the below things and like them, makes cleaning tiles I don't clean enough very easy. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G7XG6BV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
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Mar 16, 2022 17:41
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Rakeris posted:I bought a set of the below things and like them, makes cleaning tiles I don't clean enough very easy. I actually have these but they dont seem to get into the grout like i'd like. Maybe i need a better cleaner.
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Mar 16, 2022 17:54
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I use a mix of dawn dish soap and vinegar, spray it on, give it a bit and hit it with the brushes and it generally cleans it up pretty easy. Our water isn't very hard however.
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Mar 16, 2022 18:02
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Rakeris posted:I use a mix of dawn dish soap and vinegar, spray it on, give it a bit and hit it with the brushes and it generally cleans it up pretty easy. Our water isn't very hard however. I'll try that. I just use whatever scrubbing bubbles knockoff has been purchased this week usually.
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Mar 16, 2022 18:11
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I've not used Concrobium for shower grout, but it is a legit mold remediation product rather than just an on-contact killer like bleach, and the manufacturer has instructions specifically for showers and baths: https://www.concrobium.com/how-to-fight-mold/where-is-your-mold/bathroom/
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Mar 16, 2022 18:28
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Leperflesh posted:I've not used Concrobium for shower grout, but it is a legit mold remediation product rather than just an on-contact killer like bleach, and the manufacturer has instructions specifically for showers and baths: Yeah, my grout isnt that bad, it's just got some mild discolored patches in a brown. You can barely see it unless the light hits it right. Just figured I could do a better job.
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Mar 16, 2022 18:31
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Suburban Dad posted:How do you properly clean grout in a shower? I never had much luck at my old house keeping it not moldy looking, and the new house has white grout... I found grout cleaner intended for floor grout worked fairly well, brushed on, however: PainterofCrap posted:First, get a good stiff bristle brush and/or scrubbie (green plastic foam style) my wife brought home a bathroom cleaner with bleach, whose name escapes me now - it's a common one. Scubbing Bubbles, maybe? - and it was amazing. Just letting it soak and the bleach do its thing transformed the bottom 6" of my shower - which included caulk that was clean, but had been stained from mold. I'd been trying to clean that poo poo for years with Simple Green, Purple Power, all the things. One of the home shows I used to watch, Rehab Addict, swore by a paste mixture of bleach and baking soda, spread on the grout overnight, to clean neglected grout in bathrooms where she intended to keep the existing tile. I was going to try that, but that was made unnecessary by the above. Deviant posted:Is there a good brush head for a multi-tool like above? Scrubbiing motions are difficult for me because of my wrists and because i'm lazy and hate doing it. I've got a tool that's like an oversized electric toothbrush. They were sold here in the US for a while, but I had to get a Japanese one from eBay when mine died. I'd be mildly surprised if there weren't oscillating tool grout cleaning blades. I know there are grout brushes and removal blades for reciprocating saws. fake edit: oh hey, the power scrubber I was talking about is on Amazon! Sweet! https://www.amazon.com/Reveal-Power-Scrubber-Electric-Cleaning/dp/B07JDPR6PH/ There's a bunch of versions of this thing - most look identical to it (and mine) besides various colors. For that matter, a power toothbrush would probably work, too.
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Mar 16, 2022 20:31
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