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Humphreys posted:Crystal NES case. I'm just going to pony up the $140 for a professionally cast one. That's cool too, my friend got some tinted clear cases for his dreamcast stuff when it was still current, I hope he still has it.
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Mar 18, 2022 10:23
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Rexxed posted:That's cool too, my friend got some tinted clear cases for his dreamcast stuff when it was still current, I hope he still has it. Dreamcast shells are still available from Aliexpress. It's kinda amazing what is and isn't on their list of designs to reverse and release.
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Mar 18, 2022 11:53
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big scary monsters posted:Thanks! The bearings are currently leaving excess lube on the rods so I assume I got plenty in there. I put the little foam feet on, but the table it's on is not super solid, maybe a padded paving slab underneath and a heavier table will help. Yeah, by "on foam" I mean: the printer has its little foam footles, and those are resting on a square stone tile, and that is resting on about 5cm of foam, which is on the table. Without that the table was basically acting as a resonating cavity for the printer noises and you could hear it anywhere on that floor of the house even with the door closed.
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Mar 18, 2022 15:32
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I didn't get any proper foam, but a 5cm thick paving slab on top of a layer of cardboard made a huge difference. The fans are the loudest part during normal printing now, and even large y movements are quiet enough to be unobtrusive in the same room. Best 35kr I've spent on this so far.
big scary monsters fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Mar 19, 2022 |
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Mar 19, 2022 20:48
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Made some little bench dogs and decided to break one. I was really amazed how strong they were. I think I remember reading here or somewhere else that wall thickness is more important than infill for strength? I think I made these a 2mm wall thickness. Correct. Infill is effectively just internal support material. Setting your print to 4 walls and 0 infill is going to do more for strength than 2 walls and 40% infill *Generally speaking, not universal
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Mar 19, 2022 22:15
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Are holes in FEP and resulting resin leaks more of a possible hazard or an inevitability type thing? Already going to have a screen protector, kapton tape and a baking tray for absolute worst case scenarios just curious what to be expecting. Also, how does clean up work for those situations? Paper toweling it all up sounds messy and risking contact but not sure what else would work. Cure it in place and peel it off?
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Mar 19, 2022 22:42
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Finally. Finally got klicky probe and the resulting auto z set up, and it's loving life changing. Set my squish, and the printer does all the math to figure it out, regardless of bed, nozzle or sunspots The voron is churning out (pla) stuff at light speed and my ender I slowed down as not to anger the overextrusion gods. Granted the ender needs some PA tuning but hot drat am I loving stuff when it just works. Clamp on 270 degree hinges finishing up, then I can add doors and print these abs led extrusion holders, and I will be giddy. (As soon as I print this tray of flexi dicks on commission). The venn diagram of mechanical engineering, electrical work and software programming is really hitting all my buttons today.
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Mar 20, 2022 02:39
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bird food bathtub posted:Are holes in FEP and resulting resin leaks more of a possible hazard or an inevitability type thing? Already going to have a screen protector, kapton tape and a baking tray for absolute worst case scenarios just curious what to be expecting. Also, how does clean up work for those situations? Paper toweling it all up sounds messy and risking contact but not sure what else would work. Cure it in place and peel it off? I don't know if it's inevitable, but it's happened to me and you absolutely do not want resin to cure on your screen, it will not peel off, you will need to very carefully remove it with a plastic razor blade and if you're luck you won't need to replace the screen. It's also best not to cure resin on the rest of the printer just because it will be a pain in the rear end to remove and it could get in the way, make it difficult to get your vat in place etc. I had a As for how to deal with spills. Silicone spatulas and lots of paper towels works, you can also get 100cc syringes and use them to suck up wayward resin, just make sure to put it through a filter before it goes back into the bottle.
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Mar 20, 2022 02:58
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Made some little bench dogs and decided to break one. I was really amazed how strong they were. I think I remember reading here or somewhere else that wall thickness is more important than infill for strength? I think I made these a 2mm wall thickness. Neat, what plastic are you using? If you need more strength you can also print the dog in vertical halves and glue or screw them together. The layer line at the hole is going to be a weak point printing it standing up, but it's probably already strong enough anyway.
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Mar 20, 2022 03:56
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Also for any structural and simple parts, get a bigger nozzle! You can double the wall thickness and print in the same amount of time with a 0.8mm nozzle (and it will be arguably stronger than the same wall thickness printed with a 0.4mm nozzle as a result of wider single lines). 0.4mm nozzles as the 'standard' is silly and weird and I maintain that everybody should be swapping nozzles, particularly on functional parts.
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Mar 20, 2022 04:26
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I screwed up my printer when trying to check my nozzle. For some reason the heater block feels a bit wobbly on my mk3s+ and when I was messing with it I must have turned it too far and hosed up the heater cartridge. Now it won't heat the nozzle at all, contacted support and they just basically told me they think the heater cartridge is messed up. Guess I learned my lesson with this one.. those wires really need some strain relief. Feels really bad
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Mar 20, 2022 05:31
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Opinionated posted:I screwed up my printer when trying to check my nozzle. For some reason the heater block feels a bit wobbly on my mk3s+ and when I was messing with it I must have turned it too far and hosed up the heater cartridge. Now it won't heat the nozzle at all, contacted support and they just basically told me they think the heater cartridge is messed up. Yeah I don't know about the mk3 but on my monoprice, the block is just screwed into the heat tube with the nozzle screwed into the heatblock from the other direction. You can spin it around if you're not careful so you have to grab it with something while changing nozzles to keep it in place because the heater cartridge and thermistor wires aren't super great. I have a pair of these Irwin flat jaw pliers to hold onto it while it's hot, but it can still be tough to get everything all aligned without hurting the wires. The heater block setup on the creality machines seems to have some support screws on the sides. They won't stop you from breaking stuff if you're not careful, but they do help.
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Mar 20, 2022 06:39
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Roundboy posted:Finally. Finally got klicky probe and the resulting auto z set up, and it's loving life changing. Set my squish, and the printer does all the math to figure it out, regardless of bed, nozzle or sunspots But but but your artisanal first layers? (No, seriously, it's loving awesome, right?)
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Mar 20, 2022 06:42
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Roundboy posted:Finally. Finally got klicky probe and the resulting auto z set up, and it's loving life changing. Set my squish, and the printer does all the math to figure it out, regardless of bed, nozzle or sunspots --edit: Oh I see, it hits the Z-endstop with the body of the microswitch and then you need to fine tune the trigger offset. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 11:24 on Mar 20, 2022 |
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Mar 20, 2022 11:19
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Roundboy posted:Finally. Finally got klicky probe and the resulting auto z set up, and it's loving life changing. Set my squish, and the printer does all the math to figure it out, regardless of bed, nozzle or sunspots Throw voron techniques and software at a Ender, and you'll be shocked at what it can do. Klipper, pressure advance, ADXL, and say... a HeroME or similar and you can spit some stuff out really fast. ... I need to tune my Ender. Though I"m staring at a Triton kit which may just turn my fleet entirely to Vorons. Hypnolobster posted:Also for any structural and simple parts, get a bigger nozzle! You can double the wall thickness and print in the same amount of time with a 0.8mm nozzle (and it will be arguably stronger than the same wall thickness printed with a 0.4mm nozzle as a result of wider single lines). Even with 0.4mm nozzles, we're mostly limited by melt rate. I happily turn up my extrusion width, even with a .4mm nozzle. I've done 1.2mm extrusions and they come out beautiful. (as long as we're not bridging that is. Swapping nozzles on a lined hot end is... not a happy task. But i'm with you on "print something other than .4mm wide" On a personal note, my V0 FINALLY has a serial. I now own V0 1554
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Mar 20, 2022 14:45
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I got my remaining ones yesterday! I had to encode them as hex because i exceeded Discords nickname limit.
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Mar 20, 2022 16:10
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bird food bathtub posted:Are holes in FEP and resulting resin leaks more of a possible hazard or an inevitability type thing? Already going to have a screen protector, kapton tape and a baking tray for absolute worst case scenarios just curious what to be expecting. Also, how does clean up work for those situations? Paper toweling it all up sounds messy and risking contact but not sure what else would work. Cure it in place and peel it off? As Bucnasty has given you most of the advice I would, I will just add this: If you ever contemplate draining and filtering the VAT because there might be debris, or changing the FEP because you aren’t sure if that little dent is bad enough to leak, JUST DO IT. It’s never worth chancing it. Never.
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Mar 20, 2022 17:28
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Doctor Zero posted:As Bucnasty has given you most of the advice I would, I will just add this: Seconding this. Spend the time and the few extra bucks to get some spare FEP sheets, a screen protector, and either kapton tape or a premade gasket for your printer's LCD screen. It's worth it over having to spend the same amount (or more) ordering and waiting for a replacement LCD screen to arrive.
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Mar 20, 2022 19:08
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Nerobro posted:... I need to tune my Ender. Though I"m staring at a Triton kit which may just turn my fleet entirely to Vorons. I have glow in the dark blue ABS set aside for converting an Ender 3 v2 into a Switchwire. White body, blue accents, R2D2 is the inspiration. Nerobro posted:On a personal note, my V0 FINALLY has a serial. I now own V0 1554 I still haven't gotten around to doing my 2.4. Too many other projects on the run and it's such a workhorse that I forget about producing a few minute video.
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Mar 20, 2022 22:25
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Just film it doing its thing for 30 seconds. Doesn't need to be a presentation, just a proof it's functional.
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Mar 21, 2022 00:16
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snail posted:
if it's more than a minute, you've missed the point. I gotta say, I don't understand the switchwire. like.. at all.
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Mar 21, 2022 04:23
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Nerobro posted:if it's more than a minute, you've missed the point. I've just kind of lost interest in having a number, I have this stonkin' printer that's doing things and I now have other more interesting things to do. Ooh, look, a shiny bauble.... As for the Switchwire, it's purely because I can and the machine would have just been disassembled anyway.
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Mar 21, 2022 09:52
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My serial video will be after I print a wire cover for the toolhead pcb. The wires are untidy Kilicky zprobe is cool, but after a couple min of home, gantry level, bed mesh, then failing on z offset because the probe exceeded tolerance, it gets annoying. My test squares came out great at full speed, but I needed to add another touch of z down to stop my initial spaghetti. Standard deviation of . 008 on the switch is bad? Time to replace it? Just printed a purge bucket as well, this should stop any ooze I get, just need to spend time on macros. The ender printed my hinges so nice, I even have extra because I made more just in case. But when I try a plate full of led holders it just goes tits up. I guess I need PA set properly to stop these blobs of filament on the small edges. Bonus I have a klicky probe for it as well.
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Mar 21, 2022 22:10
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snail posted:I've just kind of lost interest in having a number, I have this stonkin' printer that's doing things and I now have other more interesting things to do. Ooh, look, a shiny bauble.... Roundboy posted:Kilicky zprobe is cool, but after a couple min of home, gantry level, bed mesh, then failing on z offset because the probe exceeded tolerance, it gets annoying. My test squares came out great at full speed, but I needed to add another touch of z down to stop my initial spaghetti. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Mar 21, 2022 |
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Mar 21, 2022 23:08
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Combat Pretzel posted:If you're on the Voron Discord, you get access to a few "sekrit" Voron Owner's channels, which have a higher signal to noise ratio than the public ones.
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Mar 21, 2022 23:27
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I finally got my first CoreXY working (a hypercube that only took me about 5 years to build). I used Tom's video to break out print/filament profiles in Prusa Slicer over to my generic printer, but now it basically prints like a prusa. Are there any guides for tuning prusaslicer for speed (ie. corexy bowden setup)?
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Mar 21, 2022 23:47
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Combat Pretzel posted:If you're on the Voron Discord, you get access to a few "sekrit" Voron Owner's channels, which have a higher signal to noise ratio than the public ones. I had forgotten about that. Guess I'll be spending some time this weekend finishing off the MGN12 X conversion with the Stealthburner. Combat Pretzel posted:As far as getting the first layer down, from what I remember the Klicky macro scripts, there's a trigger distance offset that needs tuning. switch_offset is the variable in the commonly used in the Z calibration configuration. Easy to measure it with a set of feeler gauges. I had mine set at 0.42 originally, and it was a little unpredictable with first layers and some materials. Adjusted it to 0.45 after measuring, and it worked so much better.
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Mar 22, 2022 05:02
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My switch says omron,, but I have a couple extra and I'll switch if need be. Z offset is very easy to update. I print test squares and adjust squish using the live z adjust. After I am happy, I take old z minus new z, and the resulting change is what I add or subtract from my hardcoded offset. It lets you do things like add a bit more squish for a textured plate or a bit less for petg on the fly with macros. I need so many more macros I also need to dial in small parts at speed. Pla will print 90% fine, but a small edge will catch and wipe the plate. Fixable, but not something I want to deal with in abs unattended. I think my extrusion ratio is a tad high so far
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Mar 22, 2022 09:56
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What are the benefits from converting something like an Ender 3 v2 to direct drive? I see on reddit that people have done it but I haven't seen anyone describe what they gain out of it, and I've even seen people say it causes some new issues. I would love to be able to push this thing past 50mm/s for PLA but I'm not sure converting to direct drive would let me do it.
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Mar 22, 2022 13:21
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Bowden tubes have a whole pile of issues. DD solves some and adds others, namely moving weight.
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Mar 22, 2022 13:33
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The 2nd z screw I added should address the weight/gantry sag issue, at least.
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Mar 22, 2022 13:56
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DD is awesome just for changing filament and clearing issues. Also retractions are much more sane. I'm not about to add all that weight to an ender gantry though
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Mar 22, 2022 14:18
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You'll get far more accurate extrusion with DD and can print at higher speeds, as retraction lengths are now 1/10th of what they used to be. Get something like an Orbiter and the weight penalty is minimal (and it's not even that expensive).
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Mar 22, 2022 18:28
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I'm having a weird problem with my Ender 3. (8bit Atmel) It's been idle for a few months and my wife needed me to print some parts for here AVL loom. So, I updated Cura to the latest version, and loaded an stl etc. The first print went fine. Then next print stopped at about 30%, the ender screen said user input required, and when I clicked the knob it started printing again (I was able to clear the excess) and the model finished. I did another one, an got the same weird stop. I checked out the feeder, and hte bowden tube and saw no issues. So I switched filament. Same results. Went up to 210 on the hot end, same results. This morning, I changed out the nozzle. Still the weird pause continues. I'm hoping there is something dumb I'm doing - it seems like it's a glitch in the Ender 3 software. It happens at different points, sometimes more than once. I'm out of ideas - any help would be welcome.
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Mar 22, 2022 18:30
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The Google tells me is a buffer underrun in marlin. It can also be too long of a gcode file name Try to make a small gcode name you send to the printer?
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Mar 22, 2022 19:14
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ImplicitAssembler posted:You'll get far more accurate extrusion with DD and can print at higher speeds, as retraction lengths are now 1/10th of what they used to be. Voron gained artifacting in the extrusion with direct drive, that isn't present with the bowden. The bowden acts as a long spring and buffers artifacts out, at the expense of longer retracts.
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Mar 22, 2022 20:07
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And that spring leads to less accurate extrusion and retraction.
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Mar 22, 2022 20:46
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Roundboy posted:The Google tells me is a buffer underrun in marlin. It can also be too long of a gcode file name I'll give it a try, it was 30 characters long - I'm going to try an older version of Cura also (I assume finding this will be easy).
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Mar 22, 2022 23:38
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I made a friend! Life-sized and articulated "pit droid" from Star Wars. Still a few small detail parts to print, and it won't be getting any paint for another couple of months when the weather starts to cooperate a little more, but it's mostly done after quite a long break from working on it. Files by Dave Moog / Droid Division on Etsy, and he's got a bunch of other neat full-sized stuff if you're into that sort of thing.
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Mar 23, 2022 00:01
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so i have an ender3 somebody loaned me a month or two ago and somebody else gave me a crate full of filament. its mostly abs though, and ive only done pla. i know abs gives you triple butt cancer or whatever, but ive never used it. is it like resin where i know i for sure need to keep the printer in the garage, or is putting it near an open window in the office and just not being in the room enough?
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Mar 23, 2022 15:18
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