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So the decade old pancake compressor at my office that no one ever drains might be hazardous? I drain it the rare times I use it but the guy that's in the shop the most never does. Last time I checked it the water came out brown.
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Mar 18, 2022 18:09
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Yes, it might be. I burp my compressor once in a long while but I live in a godforsaken desert so unless I've been using the compressor hard I barely get a wet fart of mist out of it.
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Mar 18, 2022 18:59
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so did gorilla re-invent the ladder for $100 less or should i just buy the regular werner
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Mar 18, 2022 19:37
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The drain valve on my California Air Tools compressor doesn’t drain anymore. Is it suitable to use a blower attachment to drain it instead? I haven’t tried it in >32F temps, so it might be a seasonal thing, rather than something I can replace. The Saucer Hovers posted:so did gorilla re-invent the ladder for $100 less or should i just buy the regular werner Give us a link and tell us what you’re trying to do. I bought a multi-position one of theirs that is decent, but it wouldn’t be my first choice when an A-frame would do. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Mar 18, 2022 |
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Mar 18, 2022 19:46
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nitsuga posted:Give us a link and tell us what you’re trying to do. i need up on the roof, probably a 16 over a 12 to be safe
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Mar 18, 2022 19:57
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nitsuga posted:The drain valve on my California Air Tools compressor doesn’t drain anymore. Is it suitable to use a blower attachment to drain it instead? So you haven't tried the drain valve when the water you wanted to drain was in a liquid state? Yeah, Id' think that would be your problem right there.
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Mar 18, 2022 20:12
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Motronic posted:So you haven't tried the drain valve when the water you wanted to drain was in a liquid state? Yeah, Id' think that would be your problem right there. Hehe, yeah when you spell it out like that, sure. Still, better than nothing to use the blower attachment when the valve is frozen? The Saucer Hovers posted:i need up on the roof, probably a 16 over a 12 to be safe In that case a multi-position ladder might be a good choice. A decent extension ladder would be sturdier, but a Gorilla should get you on and off your roof. If it was something you anticipated doing frequently, I’d lean toward an extension ladder, but for occasional use they are acceptable in my experience. Be careful of overhead lines as they are aluminum.
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Mar 18, 2022 20:24
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The better option is probably to bring it into a heated area and drain it once it melts
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Mar 18, 2022 20:29
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nitsuga posted:Hehe, yeah when you spell it out like that, sure. Still, better than nothing to use the blower attachment when the valve is frozen? So you're talking about depressurizing it, not draining it. I don't find that to be necessary. My compressors stay as full as they want to/can from the last time I turned them off. I don't see the point in dumping the air.
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Mar 18, 2022 20:41
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Pfft, just wasting air? What, you think this poo poo grows on drat TREES????
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Mar 18, 2022 20:47
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That all makes pretty good sense. It definitely was a freezing issue, as I was able to drain it just now. I will make a note to bring it inside though in the winter too. :-)
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Mar 18, 2022 21:57
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Imagine not draining an air compressor ever yeah idk when it became a badge of honor to neglect tools but i have all kinds of dumbasses bragging to me about how they "dont do that" when i suggest changing the brushes on their saw that shoots sparks out of the armature or oiling the nailgun that keeps jamming. we dont get much condensation here in the midwest but still..... such an easy step to take! oXDemosthenesXo posted:So the decade old pancake compressor at my office that no one ever drains might be hazardous? short answer: yes. Fwiw compressor explosions are rare, the rust usually manifests as pinhole leaks but why risk it usually there's a date stamped which is the "safe by" date, after that youre supposed to get it pressure checked every so often to ensure its integrity. ideally you can have that done for peace of mind. BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Mar 18, 2022 |
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Mar 18, 2022 22:09
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it's crazy how much water I get in mine in the PNW
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:Wow is it really 42dB?? It’s “oil free” so you don’t have to worry about that .. tip it forward when you vent it to drain the water out and you’ll be doing more than most people I’ve seen lol I just tested it in my garage and my phone at a metre away said it was 50dB. No idea how accurate it might be, but it's in the ballpark. Thanks for the tips, everyone - much appreciated.
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Mar 19, 2022 04:42
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For those of us unlucky enough to have missed out on the Walmart Goodyear quiet 8 gallon blowout, what's the cheapest a quiet compressor runs these days? I love having compressed air in the garage by my Porter Cable pancake wants to melt my brains with how loud it is.
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Mar 19, 2022 06:05
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Not the cheapest probably but I’m very happy with my Makita after a year of use. The 1gal is like $170, the 2 gal is $200 and it is very quiet .. easily carry a conversation over it. There might be others available for less. On an aside, I like how noise levels are something that manufacturers are addressing, between compressors and hydraulic impact drivers.
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Mar 19, 2022 10:18
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I was at Home Depot yesterday and I looked at a bunch of Ryobi kits—these aren’t holiday specials or anything like that, just the regular kits they have in like the front-of-store area that come with 1-2 batteries + charger and a soft case. Anyway, I’ve noticed that they have like fifty different secret SKUs of drill and whatnot, with different power ratings and internals—for all that they look externally identical and are more or less marketed as such (1/2” drill! BRUSHLESS MOTOR). So you’ll be looking at like one $230 kit that includes a drill + impact driver and then you’ll see a $299 kit that includes 2-3 more tools and you’ll be like ”that seems like a good deal” until you peep the fine print, on the bottom side of the cardboard box full of power tools, and piece together that the drill in the bigger kit is like 75% as powerful as the drill in the smaller kit, or something like that. They’ll be listed by their model names, which are like PDBB00010CD and PDBB00001AD, and you’re just like  there in Home Depot, entering them into Google on your phone and trying to get reviews.And maybe you decide to walk over to the Tool Corral where they have all of the individually sold power tools out on display for you to see and touch. You think you might be able to spot your two drills for yourself and get to the bottom of the conundrum, because that might make sense—but no! Those model numbers are specific only to kits, and those exact drills whose specs you want to compare aren’t sold individually! The model numbers on the drills in the Tool Corral are wildly different! And then if you’re like me, you start to try to do the math out in your head: is the weaker drill worth the savings and the extra tools? And if I really need a Sawzall more than all the other tools right now, does getting a cheap kit one like this make more sense than just getting a Sawzall plus maybe a drill? Anyway, TLDR: is there a recommended sweet spot for all this? An easily digestible list with explanations for which tools are worth getting in a bundle and which aren’t? Or do I have to like painstakingly dig up recommendations and product comparisons for every specific type of tool I might need? (It’s gonna keep being this, isn’t it) People keep saying that bundles are the way to buy basic tools, but I’m not sold if companies aren’t going to be upfront about which tools I’m actually getting in their bundle packs. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Mar 19, 2022 |
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Mar 19, 2022 15:32
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Ok Comboomer posted:I was at Home Depot yesterday and I looked at a bunch of Ryobi kits—these aren’t holiday specials or anything like that, just the regular kits they have in like the front-of-store area that come with 1-2 batteries + charger and a soft case. which tools were you looking for? drill, driver, reciprocating saw ... what else? and in my opinion the 18v cordless reciprocating saws lack sufficient oomph, the better ones use two batteries or a higher voltage battery. humbly suggest corded--depending on your intended use case of course, i have a 12v hackzall that works well for landscaping Combo kits are okay but the bigger ones usually just include a bunch of crap i dont need. the BOGO or "free gift!" deals that come around a few times a year are the best way to go but if you cant wait, its not really an option.
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Mar 19, 2022 16:27
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:which tools were you looking for? drill, driver, reciprocating saw ... what else? and in my opinion the 18v cordless reciprocating saws lack sufficient oomph, the better ones use two batteries or a higher voltage battery. humbly suggest corded--depending on your intended use case of course, i have a 12v hackzall that works well for landscaping honestly right now the first thing I’m probably going to get is a rotary tool, lol. I have a bunch of bonsai, horticulture, and aquarium-related projects that require precision drilling/cutting/shaping/sanding that something like a Dremel would be perfect for. I live in a rental, so none of my “home improvement” work touches anything of actual consequence. Mainly just wanna do a lot of project builds. I’ve held off on buying anything all winter, waiting for the incoming line of 2022 RYOBI rotary tools, and I think I’m going to pick up the $60 USB Lithium rotary and maybe the beefier 1.4a corded rotary if I end up needing more power for certain tasks. Maybe I’ll grab the Babbys-First-Drillpress accessory down the road too. I don’t really like that the 12v one has an integrated battery. There’s also the $160+ incoming upgraded 18V whip rotary with brushless motor, pedal compatibility, and aluminum grip but that seems ill-placed for my current situation and needs. I could honestly probably also use a real drill, a power screwdriver (lol, but really), and a sawzall/hackzawl for lopping branches and cutting through rootballs/pipe/pvc/etc. Right now I have this and it rules.
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Mar 19, 2022 17:02
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If you're looking at team neon green definitely check out https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/
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Mar 19, 2022 17:26
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Bob Mundon posted:Well, finally did it. DTO has a 30% off today and somehow had the Ridgid thickness planer in stock.... Finally. Imagine between a 13in resaw capacity on the bandsaw and this should be able to face joint pretty easily. Man, that got here fast. Tested it a little and will have to adjust the tables some to prevent some of the snipe, but puts a nice finish on the board at least. Plus dust port hooks up to the ridgid shop vac hose and the blower is strong enough it blows chips through a dust stopper into a bucket without a vacuum running on the other end. I like. Was afraid I'd have to dance around circuits to keep the the breaker from tripping running the planer and a shop vac at the same time.
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Mar 19, 2022 17:51
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Ok Comboomer posted:honestly right now the first thing I’m probably going to get is a rotary tool, lol. You know what? I just wouldn't worry about it. Ryobi makes solid tools, just maybe not as heavy-duty as the big three. For your described use cases I don't think you're going to go wrong. Just buy what you need at a price that looks ok to you. I'm not aware of any Ryobi tools that are just stinkers. In the rare chance you do wear one out or need a bigger one, Ryobi has a larger line (one+) including some really quite good stuff. They're a reputable brand, buy with confidence.
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Mar 19, 2022 18:59
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:which tools were you looking for? drill, driver, reciprocating saw ... what else? and in my opinion the 18v cordless reciprocating saws lack sufficient oomph, the better ones use two batteries or a higher voltage battery. Disagree. I've got an old blue one that cut through a steel basketball pole a few weeks ago. No problem with a 4a or 3a battery. Unless they've built the newer ones shittier, which would be pretty unintuitive. It's a tossup if I use that or my old corded Rockwell, depending on the job. *The Rockwell, I can flip the blade either side for a close in cut.
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Mar 19, 2022 19:10
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:which tools were you looking for? drill, driver, reciprocating saw ... what else? and in my opinion the 18v cordless reciprocating saws lack sufficient oomph, the better ones use two batteries or a higher voltage battery. humbly suggest corded--depending on your intended use case of course, i have a 12v hackzall that works well for landscaping Umm. I'm gonna disagree. Even the brushed ones are plenty powerful. I've cut up a fiberglass and plywood boat, a hot tub, and many Jeep suspension bolts with mine.
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Mar 19, 2022 22:29
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I think the idea with those kits is to get a big kit, use the tools, and replace/upgrade whatever you notice is disappointing. Like if you start drilling into masonry and the "hammer drill" that came with the kit wimps out, then get a real one (or more likely just rent one), but otherwise don't worry about it. Also I'm assuming the kit tools are the older versions, I know at least with Milwaukee there've been a few generations of a lot of the more basic drills, etc, and the outdated designs show up in the 7 tool giant boxes. I don't think they're just making a bunch of different versions to gently caress around. Of course it's possible if you do that that you'll be disappointed with all the tools, but that's pretty unlikely for hobbyist/homeowner stuff, and also that's why you should get the big kit on sale. They're usually the ones that have the steepest discounts, because they're also the most compromised with the biggest margins. The more important issue is to make sure the system you're buying into (batteries, chargers, etc) at least has the sorts of tools you'll want to get and use.
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Mar 19, 2022 22:49
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Yeah, it's really easy to fall into the trap of "I need the best possible tools". The reality is that the basic tools are going to meet 100% of the needs of >90% of consumers. If the basic tools aren't good enough for your work, then you probably already know that they're not good enough, because you're doing specialist jobs that need extra power or fancier features. If you don't already know that you'll be doing a lot of drilling into concrete, or needing a drill that can fit a 1" shaft or something, then just get the basic tools in a kit, use it until it breaks, and then decide whether it's worth springing for the fancier stuff.
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Mar 19, 2022 22:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, it's really easy to fall into the trap of "I need the best possible tools". The reality is that the basic tools are going to meet 100% of the needs of >90% of consumers. Seconding this. Before going down the rabbit hole of comparing torque specs and bearing materials ask yourself "Am I going to be an extremely demanding user of this tool?". If the answer is no, don't sweat it. Just buy something in your price range from a reputable brand that can do the job you are looking at right this second. Modern Li-on tools are good poo poo, you can't go wrong with a cordless tool from the following brands: DeWalt Milwaukee Makita Ridgid Bosch Ryobi
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Mar 19, 2022 23:14
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To answer the question "Am I going to be an extremely demanding user of this tool?" Ask yourself this: -Am I going to use this tool 500 times in the next month? 500 holes drilled, 500 cuts sawn, 500 minutes grinding. -Am I doing anything really large? Drilling 5" holes, cutting 300 year old rock-hard oak. -If the tool can't do the job I need, do I lose money or someone's life in danger? Is there some reason I couldn't just go to Lowes Depot and buy another? If you didn't answer yes to at least one question, you don't need super heavy duty tools. Any tool from a reputable brand will work fine.
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Mar 19, 2022 23:26
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Thanks for the reality check I guess for me the concern was more the idea that power tools are one of those “buy once in 20 years” deals. So if the difference is going to be $30-100 or whatever then why buy a tool that would be potentially underpowered when I could spend tens of dollars more to get something more capable? I also hate the idea of overbuying or purchasing something disposable only to have to replace it down the road.
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Mar 19, 2022 23:41
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We regret to inform you that it is all disposable these days.
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Mar 19, 2022 23:48
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I mean it's all relative. I got a Milwaukee M12 brushed "screwdriver" like ten years ago and it still works fine, mainly because I only use it occasionally on light duty stuff. I like how the clutch is pretty sensitive and gentle, when it's the right tool it's still the right tool. I don't think I'd want to put a deck together with it, definitely not more than once, but it's not like it was a waste of money.
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Mar 20, 2022 00:09
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The mental comparison I use for these is the set of router bits I bought when I got my first router. I bought a variety pack of router bits for less than $50, and I still have most of them. The ones I no longer have, it's because they're the ones I used the most, and therefore they wore out fastest. And when I needed to replace them, I had a good idea that I'd use them frequently, so it made sense to spend more on the replacements. All tools are disposable, simply because they wear out with use. This has always been true; it's just that historically, when a tool broke, you took it apart (which might just be a matter of separating the handle from the metal bit) and repaired or replaced the broken part. You can still work that way if you're willing to stick to hand tools. But if you buy a power tool, even a nice power tool, you should assume that it's eventually going to wear out. The question really is if you want it to last 10 years or 30.
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Mar 20, 2022 01:43
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I think M12 is a nice balance between the two worlds. A little lighter duty and cheaper than M18, but still pretty great. Ryobi makes plenty of fine stuff, but it’s not quite on the same level. If you don’t care though, that’s fine and there are definitely cases where you shouldn’t, more so with AC powered stuff.
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Mar 20, 2022 02:08
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nitsuga posted:I think M12 is a nice balance between the two worlds. A little lighter duty and cheaper than M18, but still pretty great. Ryobi makes plenty of fine stuff, but it’s not quite on the same level. If you don’t care though, that’s fine and there are definitely cases where you shouldn’t, more so with AC powered stuff. I dunno, my M12 drill will still break your drat wrist if you gently caress around. It's a drat tank of a drill for its size and it blows my mind every time I use it.
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Mar 20, 2022 06:13
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withak posted:We regret to inform you that it is all disposable these days. By the same token, I still wouldn't ever buy anything Hilti for myself because I can't justify the cost for my own finances. This was a gift for helping someone with a big project. (Edit: Whoa, Hilti has gotten significantly cheaper than they used to be. Hopefully doesn't indicate a drop in quality. Their impact driver used to be 300 bucks, the current equivalent is like 130) Slugworth fucked around with this message at 12:45 on Mar 20, 2022 |
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Mar 20, 2022 12:40
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sharkytm posted:Umm. I'm gonna disagree. Even the brushed ones are plenty powerful. I've cut up a fiberglass and plywood boat, a hot tub, and many Jeep suspension bolts with mine. Mr. Mambold posted:Disagree. I've got an old blue one that cut through a steel basketball pole a few weeks ago. No problem with a 4a or 3a battery. Unless they've built the newer ones shittier, which would be pretty unintuitive. It's a tossup if I use that or my old corded Rockwell, depending on the job. Duly noted. I've used the brushed M18 and the brushless 20v DeWalt and found them to be slow and power-hungry to the point where I'd opt for corded instead. Cutting up a whole boat w a 18v sawzall sounds like a nightmare tbh .. I'm sure it can do it but I'd rather use a 13amp corded saw to do it faster and without worrying about batteries My DeWalt 60v saw is faster than my 13amp sawzall by a good margin but for all-day demo I'll grab the corded Everytime.
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Mar 20, 2022 13:52
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Ok Comboomer posted:Thanks for the reality check just buy this: https://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-...rxph07mb-r.html you'll have a top of the line drill that can handle pretty much anything and it should last 20 years in the hands of a DIYer no problem. I only recommend the hammer drill bc the top of the line cordless drills always come w a hammer function, not that you'll likely have a real need for it.
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Mar 20, 2022 14:15
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:Duly noted. I've used the brushed M18 and the brushless 20v DeWalt and found them to be slow and power-hungry to the point where I'd opt for corded instead. Cutting up a whole boat w a 18v sawzall sounds like a nightmare tbh .. I'm sure it can do it but I'd rather use a 13amp corded saw to do it faster and without worrying about batteries What kind of blades were you using, how sharp etc...
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Mar 20, 2022 14:26
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An all day demo while dragging a drat cord around, no thx. My M18 hack through it zall
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Mar 20, 2022 15:51
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Slugworth posted:
Narrator: It does, in fact, indicate just that.
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Mar 20, 2022 16:16
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:My DeWalt 60v saw is faster than my 13amp sawzall by a good margin but for all-day demo I'll grab the corded Everytime. 100% a cord is not hard at all to move lmao
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Mar 20, 2022 16:21
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