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I can't see exactly where the bulb is in the fixture, but depending on the fixture, the cell can be partially covered so it's on in the daylight, or its own light can be reflected by the fixture so it goes on/off like you described. The fact that it worked correctly when you covered the cell manually points in that direction imo. If that's the case, you may be better off with an outlet timer. They have ones that automatically adjust to daily changes in sunrise/sunset. The only downside is they don't respond to weather and would need to be flipped manually on dark, stormy days.
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Mar 23, 2022 02:43
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i like nice words
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I found a finishing nail I could test some spots with and it is in fact a tall skinny metal thing. Glad I didn't force it, could be a pipe or something?? Am sad though how one tiny thing sets me back another day cause I don't have a lot of time between when I get home from work and when I need to stop making loud noise to not piss off other people in my building (sound proofing's good here but less so when drilling and hammering into walls)
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Mar 23, 2022 03:14
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Anne Whateley posted:I can't see exactly where the bulb is in the fixture, but depending on the fixture, the cell can be partially covered so it's on in the daylight, or its own light can be reflected by the fixture so it goes on/off like you described. The fact that it worked correctly when you covered the cell manually points in that direction imo. Yea I wonder if the bulb type I'm using is messing with it. I'll see if the manufacturer responds to the issue and I may have to try different bulbs. I do have one lamp in the house that uses a Wifi bulb that works well and can be set on a schedule. I wonder how that would hold up in an outdoor setting.
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Mar 23, 2022 03:19
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Wowporn posted:I found a finishing nail I could test some spots with and it is in fact a tall skinny metal thing. Glad I didn't force it, could be a pipe or something?? Am sad though how one tiny thing sets me back another day cause I don't have a lot of time between when I get home from work and when I need to stop making loud noise to not piss off other people in my building (sound proofing's good here but less so when drilling and hammering into walls) It could be just about anything. This is where experience and context comes in. What is around that area? HVAC registers? Is this a wall that might have plumbing in it based on the locations of fixtures in the home? How about a dryer vent? What's on the other side of the wall? What's to the right and left of that on either side? Example: you're drilling a hole to the right or left of a switch or outlet (potentially even on the other side of the wall), one or two studs off: that's probably a nail plate that was put on the stud because there is wire run through it. Same idea if you're trying to drill a hole in a bathroom or otherwise on the opposite side of a shower valve. You've got to provide more context to get help on this, and pictures + descriptions of the area are fine.
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Mar 23, 2022 03:22
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nosleep posted:Yea I wonder if the bulb type I'm using is messing with it. I'll see if the manufacturer responds to the issue and I may have to try different bulbs. I do have one lamp in the house that uses a Wifi bulb that works well and can be set on a schedule. I wonder how that would hold up in an outdoor setting. My house has a light in the front yard that's controlled by a photocell. When I bought the house it would stay on all night like it was supposed to, but during the day would just go on and off at different intervals unrelated to how much light it was getting. IIRC the problem ended up being the line and load going in and out of the photocell were wired backwards. They looked right based on wire color but the photocell is 30' away from the light in a box with the runs hidden in conduit so line and load were not in fact what wire color indicated.
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Mar 23, 2022 11:46
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Our fridge is hosed. First, it stopped refrigerating / freezing - it went up to the mid 60s. Repair guy came, he replaced the fan and a regulator. Now, it works too well. The fridge is freezing everything. It's set to 37, but the real temperature hovers between 20-24 degrees. The repair guy replaced the temp sensor in it, but that didn't fix it. Right when the repair was done, it detected the temperature at 45, then slowly went down to 37 over the next few days, but the fridge is still freezing everything. My landlord has given up and is going to replace the fridge. Ordinarily I would be fine with this but landlords gonna landlord and he's buying the cheapest possible one, ie one that doesn't have an icemaker or a water dispenser. Is there anything else I could do to fix our existing fridge?
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Mar 23, 2022 20:10
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Our fridge is hosed. First, it stopped refrigerating / freezing - it went up to the mid 60s. Repair guy came, he replaced the fan and a regulator. Now, it works too well. The fridge is freezing everything. It's set to 37, but the real temperature hovers between 20-24 degrees. The repair guy replaced the temp sensor in it, but that didn't fix it. Right when the repair was done, it detected the temperature at 45, then slowly went down to 37 over the next few days, but the fridge is still freezing everything. Not really. I mean, yes, but you should see if you can split the cost with your landlord of the replacement if you feel that passionately about it. IT would be better than throwing another $300 at this fridge.
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Mar 23, 2022 21:05
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I'm about to start a fence project, and I've got some questions. I've put up vinyl before, but never wood. The house I bought has posts already in place, but no panels. Unfortunately, they are 8-3 to 8-4 on center, so a bit too wide for panels (at least from Depot or Lowes). As a result, I'm installing my own stringers and pickets. For stringers, on an 8 foot span, would 1x lumber be sufficient, or should I go with 2x? 1x is tempting because a 9 foot 2x4 is 11 bucks right now, which is just unbelievably idiotic. Doesn't help me much if the 1x fails a year from now though. One stringer per two feet of height? For attaching pickets, what's gonna hold the best? Ring shank? Will screws be enough of an improvement over nails that it's worth doing, considering how much time that'll add to the project?
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Mar 23, 2022 21:27
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We're starting to plan out a remodel of a small half bathroom. We want to replace the existing tile, but it's part of continuous tile run throughout the first floor. What's the appropriate tool(s) and technique to cut a line here so I can cleanly remove the bathroom tile while leaving the hallway tile undamaged? It's porcelain tile mortared directly to the plywood subfloor, no cement backboard. bonus points if you guess correctly whether or not the PO's (or their installers) properly undercut the door jams or just cut the tiles around the door jams and filled the gaps with grout!
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Mar 23, 2022 22:01
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 how concerning does this look?
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Mar 23, 2022 22:19
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brugroffil posted:We're starting to plan out a remodel of a small half bathroom. We want to replace the existing tile, but it's part of continuous tile run throughout the first floor. What's the appropriate tool(s) and technique to cut a line here so I can cleanly remove the bathroom tile while leaving the hallway tile undamaged? It's porcelain tile mortared directly to the plywood subfloor, no cement backboard.
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Mar 23, 2022 22:25
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Is there a good thread for mold? I'd like to inspect a house for mold/deal with some leaks that have gone on for much longer than they should have been allowed and wanted to ask about it. Sorry if this isn't the best thread to ask.
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Mar 23, 2022 22:40
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my morning jackass posted:
Depends on what it's made of. Is that concrete? Maybe concerning. Is that cinder block and what we're looking at is just failed parging? Maybe not concerning. Depends on what the other side of the wall looks like either way.
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Mar 23, 2022 23:30
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Motronic posted:Depends on what it's made of. Is that concrete? Maybe concerning. Is that cinder block and what we're looking at is just failed parging? Maybe not concerning. Depends on what the other side of the wall looks like either way. Concrete, foundation from 2011. Can’t see the foundation from the inside cause it’s behind a wall but the wall is fine. Isn’t my house, just went to view. Obv would love an inspection.
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Mar 23, 2022 23:59
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my morning jackass posted:Concrete, foundation from 2011. Can’t see the foundation from the inside cause it’s behind a wall but the wall is fine. In that case you'd need a poke around in those cracks to see just how deep they are. This is not something that I'd say is a red flag in a buying situation based on your photo. But it's definitely a "home inspector is not good enough" situation. You want a qualified person brought in by the inspector to do a report on that. .....if that's even a thing you can get away with in this insane housing market.
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Mar 24, 2022 00:02
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Slugworth posted:I'm about to start a fence project, and I've got some questions. I've put up vinyl before, but never wood. The house I bought has posts already in place, but no panels. Unfortunately, they are 8-3 to 8-4 on center, so a bit too wide for panels (at least from Depot or Lowes). As a result, I'm installing my own stringers and pickets. I'm not sure if you build fences significantly different in the states, but I've built around 30-40 whilst helping get a friends fencing business off the ground here in australia. We span up to 2.7m between posts with 3x 50x75mm horizontal railings (2x3 stringers i guess?) for a 9 foot high treated pine timber fence. we'd space the railings just shy of the top, and then middle and bottom. i've also seen it done with two rails for a 7 foot fence, one 2 foot off the ground, other 5 foot off ground. for half height front yard fences / picket fences (i guess 3-4 foot) we'd still use two railings splitting the fence picket into thirds. fixings: for pine we just use a ring shank in a nail gun because it's soo much faster. however when i've done my own projects with treated pine i've used screws so they don't pull as they dry out and i've not been on a time limit. if you're not using a timber that's likely to shrink it might be less of a problem, though i'd always recommend angling your nails on a slight angle, not straight in, so there's more tension and therefore less likely to pull free if the board warps hambeet fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Mar 24, 2022 |
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Mar 24, 2022 00:13
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Motronic posted:In that case you'd need a poke around in those cracks to see just how deep they are. yeah look it could just be concrete spalding, especially if the area frosts regularly. but if i was looking at buying it i would want to know for sure from a professional.
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Mar 24, 2022 00:19
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Motronic posted:In that case you'd need a poke around in those cracks to see just how deep they are. Unfortunately we probably couldn’t even get an inspector in. There are enough boomers looking for their 5th property that basically we have been continually hosed by bully bids or having any conditions whatsoever. I would feel lovely about not having it looked at beforehand but I may have to settle to have it looked at after and pray it isn’t gonna be too costly. An awful winter and a couple years of above average rainfall may be contributing factors. The property disclosure statement really doesn’t have any other concerns and from looking around the basement there are no signs of water leakage, moisture, odd smells etc.
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Mar 24, 2022 00:38
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is there any cracking in the door frames or windows above? the eaves? any signs of fresh paint in those areas?
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Mar 24, 2022 01:15
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Who do you call out to assess potential foundation issues?
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Mar 24, 2022 01:25
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Motronic posted:It could be just about anything. This is where experience and context comes in. It's a really blank wall in my living room, the closest outlets are 3 studs to the left or twice as far to the right. Further left is the pantry then the kitchen. Opposite side of the wall is an elevator shaft. I was able to find space to move my screw to so it has worked out fine, just means more unnecessary holes...
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Mar 24, 2022 01:29
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hambeet posted:fence stuff I might start off with screws to see how it goes. It sounds... Time consuming, but saves me a few hundred bucks on a nailer. It'll be 2,000+ fasteners though, so... Nailer sounds pretty good.
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Mar 24, 2022 01:37
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hambeet posted:is there any cracking in the door frames or windows above? the eaves? any signs of fresh paint in those areas? Nothing that could be noticed. I basically was just told that this house has multiple offers already and will go without conditions. If we want it will have to hope for the best. Yay housing crisis. My only solace is that generally everything seemed to be well maintained and professionally done to a greater extent than most other homes we have seen.
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Mar 24, 2022 01:57
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brugroffil posted:Who do you call out to assess potential foundation issues? A foundation repair company, but due note they are in the business of fixing foundations, so always get multiple quotes. Also, may not be a bad idea to get an engineering report done if there appears to be anything serious going on. Can be several hundred though. (Was around $350 iirc for one we had completed ~2 years ago)
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Mar 24, 2022 03:10
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my morning jackass posted:Unfortunately we probably couldn’t even get an inspector in. There are enough boomers looking for their 5th property that basically we have been continually hosed by bully bids or having any conditions whatsoever. I would feel lovely about not having it looked at beforehand but I may have to settle to have it looked at after and pray it isn’t gonna be too costly. An awful winter and a couple years of above average rainfall may be contributing factors. The fact that in this market you are expected to buy a house uninspected is loving insane to me. Every year around this time, I get the Facebook memories of the houses that my parents looked at for us. They made an offer on one but it was in poo poo-awful shape upon inspection - we would have moved into that place if it hadn't failed inspection and caused the withdrawal of the offer. gently caress that.
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Mar 24, 2022 14:25
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I'm getting my roof replaced (they're hammering above my head right now) and the half they finished on Tuesday has these sliiiight gaps where some tiles are overlapping: They're barely noticeable, especially when you're looking up from edge, but they are kiiiiinda noticable. I'm fairly confident this is not a potential leaking issue and it's just aesthetics, but is this normal? How could you fix this without ripping out the shingles around this or putting a nail where you don't want one? Am I just worrying over nothing? The new Landmark Pro tiles are definitely thicker than what I had up there before, maybe that could be part of it but I know nothing about roofs. 
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Mar 24, 2022 15:41
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Those are ‘architectural’ shingles and you paid extra for them to look like that and have those gaps/thicker areas. I think the idea is they add some visual interest and look more like slate or a shake roof and aren’t all just flat and boring.
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Mar 24, 2022 16:11
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Thank you, it seems my homeowners anxiety overcame my appreciation for the cottagecore look of the "weathered wood" colored shingles I specifically selected for the...well...weathered and distressed look that you describe.
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Mar 24, 2022 16:20
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Dance McPants posted:I'm getting my roof replaced (they're hammering above my head right now) and the half they finished on Tuesday has these sliiiight gaps where some tiles are overlapping:... You should see them settle down after a few heat cycles. The bumpy appearance is why you paid a bit extra for laminated shingles. The gaps should settle out over time. Let full sun hit it for a few days over the next couple weeks. Take photos in this same spot, daily if possible, over that time-frame.
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Mar 24, 2022 16:24
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And then put them in a nice time-lapse GIFV for us to ooh and aah over. Or maybe just me. That's okay too.
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Mar 24, 2022 16:33
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I'm kinda interested too, I'll try to set up a tripod or at least mark a spot on the lawn with a stake and get out there when the sun's setting and the light is best
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Mar 24, 2022 16:37
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D34THROW posted:The fact that in this market you are expected to buy a house uninspected is loving insane to me. Every year around this time, I get the Facebook memories of the houses that my parents looked at for us. They made an offer on one but it was in poo poo-awful shape upon inspection - we would have moved into that place if it hadn't failed inspection and caused the withdrawal of the offer. gently caress that. Makes me nervous, but at least everything else in this home was quite well cared for so if it was an issue I imagine it would have been dealt with. Found pics from 2015 of the home and the cracks are there, don’t look different from how they currently look. If we get it I’ll have someone look at it but I am confident it’s nothing major. Thanks for the help all.
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Mar 24, 2022 17:37
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my morning jackass posted:Found pics from 2015 of the home and the cracks are there, don’t look different from how they currently look. Considering the hellworld that most housing markets are right now, that's probably about as solid of evidence that this is in fact not a huge problem as you're going to get.
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Mar 24, 2022 18:06
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D34THROW posted:And then put them in a nice time-lapse GIFV for us to ooh and aah over. Hot shingles in your area want to meet you!
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Mar 24, 2022 18:15
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Mario posted:Hot shingles in your area want to meet you! Please, no. Getting flashbacks to my summers roofing for my uncle; and the first few weeks my hands being perma-burned from 100+ degree asphalt shingles before I would develop my calluses, that would then recede well before next season and it started anew.
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Mar 24, 2022 18:32
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Slugworth posted:I might start off with screws to see how it goes. It sounds... Time consuming, but saves me a few hundred bucks on a nailer. It'll be 2,000+ fasteners though, so... Nailer sounds pretty good. If you're buying or renting the nailer you could buy or rent a screw gun instead. Will still take a little longer to spin them in versus driving the nail, but at least you won't be out there fumbling with loose screws and a drill with a screw bit.
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Mar 24, 2022 20:48
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With this talk of roofing, I want to ask if it is sensible to get a metal roof or if that is a bad idea. I like how durable the idea sounds.
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Mar 25, 2022 00:41
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thechosenone posted:With this talk of roofing, I want to ask if it is sensible to get a metal roof or if that is a bad idea. I like how durable the idea sounds. Metal roofs are awesome and very durable. With proper insulation they aren't loud inside. But they are not for all circumstances. I doubt they would hold up (appearance wise) in a place that gets a lot of hail. They are difficult/dangerous to be on because they are slippery. They require special treatment for snow because they are legit hazardous since an entire roof of snow can just come crashing off at once (there are cleats you install to prevent/slow this). They are also bad at penetrations. So if you have a lot of skylights or something like that it can be much more difficult to deal with and seal, potentially requiring periodic recaulking of the penetrations. Which can be difficult on a steep pitch roof due to the slipperiness I already mentioned. You can also have issued after several years where you need to get on up there and re-tighten or replace the fasteners, as they are gasketed and can dry out/crack. Older installs with nails tend to back out from heat/cool cycles and you need to go up there every couple of year and give each nail a tap. The metal roof on my barn came with a 30 year warranty, as did the metal siding.
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Mar 25, 2022 01:05
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I've got a metal roof in an area that gets a fair bit of hail with no apparent damage. If you're made of money you can even get interlocking metal roofs with no exposed fasteners.
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Mar 25, 2022 01:49
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Aren't they also heavier than a typical asphalt-shingle roof, and therefore you may need your roof structure upgraded too? Or am I only thinking of spanish tile.
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Mar 25, 2022 07:33
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