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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Saw this amazing build on Armorama today. Titled "Calm Ripples", by Young Won. Check out more pics at the link below. Charlie might not surf, but Charlie does take relaxing boat rides.
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# ? Mar 19, 2022 15:16 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 12:20 |
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Hell, make that water a little redder and you've got an average weekend on the lake around here. That's fantastic foliage.
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# ? Mar 19, 2022 17:27 |
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After about a year of modelling-abstinence I finally got around to build something again It's Tamiyas Corsair kit: it went together very nicely, but I really felt out of practice.
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# ? Mar 19, 2022 19:44 |
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Saw this amazing build on Armorama today. Titled "Calm Ripples", by Young Won. Check out more pics at the link below. Pro-click: check out the soil on the reverse side of the diorama. It looks so real it feels like it could just crumble off the model.
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 12:19 |
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That's the kind of model that's both inspiring and utterly dispiriting. Fantastic stuff.
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 12:51 |
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the paradigm shift posted:I got a thing of 100 little metal balls off amazon for a few bucks and throw them in all my paints. So I did this for a few of mine and the little balls will rust. Use tiny pebbles
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 15:23 |
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Nebakenezzer posted:So I did this for a few of mine and the little balls will rust. Use tiny pebbles What brand of metal balls did you use? I have had good luck using the Army Painter brand agitators. Have had in some paints for quite some time and not experienced any rust, yet. Have had some in for over a year now.
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 18:15 |
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IncredibleIgloo posted:What brand of metal balls did you use? I have had good luck using the Army Painter brand agitators. Have had in some paints for quite some time and not experienced any rust, yet. Have had some in for over a year now. Oh, I just used ball bearings.
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 20:38 |
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Marx Headroom posted:Can I get an airbrush recommendation? I've had an old $30 Master airbrush for years, the trigger is getting sticky (I probably got some cleaner in there by mistake) but looking into the repair process and how much enjoyment I've gotten out of this hobby I figure I might as well upgrade. The Badger line looks good and affordable to me. My local Blick has mostly Iwata stuff. I mostly paint miniatures these days but I have a few gunpla projects waiting for warmer weather. I've been using a Badger 150 and have bought a couple other Badgers since then that I'll use once I get back in the airbrush mood. You can't really go too far wrong with anything from Iwata or Badger; I'd suggest Iwata in your case since it's really handy to be able to run out and get a spare part if you need it so you can get back in business the same day if something breaks down on you.
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# ? Mar 21, 2022 02:39 |
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Blyat ! I broken open a medium hull gray from my last order of paints... and these are the non-water soluble acrylics. So much for airbrushing with them. On the plus side, I finished what I was working on before the brush gummed up completely and the penny dropped. German Z37/Z39 WW2 destroyer in 1/700 by Tamiya. Nice kit. Just needs a few details picked out and then a camo scheme.
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# ? Mar 21, 2022 05:31 |
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mllaneza posted:
Nice ship, but that seascape isn't very convincing.
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# ? Mar 21, 2022 11:14 |
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Unkempt posted:Nice ship, but that seascape isn't very convincing. Uh, it's a faecescape. e: obviously the ship is very nice Lizard Combatant fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Mar 21, 2022 |
# ? Mar 21, 2022 13:04 |
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I can’t even conceive of attempting a WWII destroyer in 1/700, good work.
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# ? Mar 21, 2022 13:28 |
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Anybody have any strong opinions on 1/72 TBM/F Avengers? I'm trying to decide between one of the Hobby 2000 spruced-up Hasegawas or a Sword kit.
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# ? Mar 21, 2022 15:28 |
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Eduard sells photoetch for 1/72 Hasegawa, so that suggests it is popular anyway: https://www.eduard.com/index.php?la...%5B17%5D=1%2F72
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# ? Mar 21, 2022 16:00 |
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grassy gnoll posted:Anybody have any strong opinions on 1/72 TBM/F Avengers? I'm trying to decide between one of the Hobby 2000 spruced-up Hasegawas or a Sword kit. Depends what you're after really, Sword has loads of boxings of Avenger variants in service in different countries so they're fairly comprehensive, including the Guppy. The Hobby 2000 choices are a bit more limited, mostly US but I think the most recent kit is French and Royal Navy schemes. If you've not built a Sword kit before, they're short run but not 'difficult' - just needs a bit more time, test-fitting and clean-up than a mainstream manufacturer. There's no locator pins and moulding can be a bit chunky, but the surface detail is usually fantastic. The Hobby 2000/Hasegawa kit will likely be an easier build, and comes with a canopy masking set and Cartograf decals (I think, would need to check my box but it's deep in the stash). Sword tend to use Techmod for their decals which are beautifully printed but can be very fragile and are a little more difficult to work with. I'll be building the Sword kit in Japanese post-war markings at some point.
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# ? Mar 21, 2022 16:07 |
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For mixing balls, 304 stainless steel is supposed to be pretty rust resistant and you can get a bunch of loose ball bearings cheap on Amazon by searching "304 stainless bearings".
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# ? Mar 21, 2022 22:40 |
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SkunkDuster posted:For mixing balls, 304 stainless steel is supposed to be pretty rust resistant and you can get a bunch of loose ball bearings cheap on Amazon by searching "304 stainless bearings". Try 8mm hematite beads. Zero chance of rust, not going to chip, and very cheap. e. Double blyat ! I bumped the worktable and the ship went flying. It is not a Space Destroyer Z39, so this was bad. After some repairs, it's missing the top section of the foremast, 3 medium AA pieces, and a rangefinder. I had no immediate plans to build the second kit in the box, so if carpet monster won't disgorge the missing pieces (got one already) I can always steal from the second kit. For some reason, 1/700 scale destroyers tend to come with two ship kits in the box. These are slightly different, since Z37 and Z39 were outfitted with different AA weapons, and a few other changes, but you can always steal parts from the second kit. FrozenVent posted:I can’t even conceive of attempting a WWII destroyer in 1/700, good work. With good magnification, good tweezers, and that super thin cement, it went a lot easier than I expected. I'd done one before with your bog standard Testors cement, and that was a real pain in the rear end to finish all the boat davits and such. With the magic cement, fitting parts in was dead simple. And you probably get a second kit to steal lost parts from, c'mooooooon, goooooo for it. mllaneza fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Mar 22, 2022 |
# ? Mar 22, 2022 00:40 |
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I *think* I finally sorted my HP-CS. A new packing screw, front o-ring, nozzle, and repeated deep cleans seem to have fixed it. Even with a brand new nozzle I'm still sometimes getting a ton of air bubbles in the cup when covering the muzzle of the brush and spraying just air. A bit of chapstick fixed that, but I think I probably damaged the actual body where the nozzle self-seats. Lesson learned, be very careful about using the right tools to clean your airbrush. Now for the M1....firstly, to be fair my airbrush and modeling skill levels probably aren't doing me any favors. Add to that I really, really need to learn to plan ahead better in regard to what order to do things in. That said: Those little metal grilles? They're PE and I don't know their function in the M1 in real life, but in this build their function is to cause suffering. I don't have a PE roller; my PE bending kit consists of a metal ruler, a spare scalpel blade, and a lot of words that small children shouldn't be exposed to. Regardless, looking at the way this whole bit is supposed to be assembled it was going to be a battle no matter what. What isn't visible is the 1-2mm I had to slice off of the bottom of each PE grille in order to get them to fit. mllaneza posted:Blyat ! I broken open a medium hull gray from my last order of paints... and these are the non-water soluble acrylics. So much for airbrushing with them. On the plus side, I finished what I was working on before the brush gummed up completely and the penny dropped. I ran into this same issue with my whites. I wanted a nice eggshell white for the inside of the turret and ended up with eggshells of paint instead.
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# ? Mar 23, 2022 15:14 |
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For rolling photoetch, I use a drill bit (or a pin or a large needle that I have lying around) and a white polymer eraser as a base. If the curve is more than a (very) gentle arc, I will anneal the photoetch first. For cutting, I use a curved scalpel on a piece of clear plastic bought from our local Tap Plastics scrap bin.
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# ? Mar 23, 2022 16:43 |
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What did you damage it with? I'm very paranoid about breaking my HP-CS.
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# ? Mar 23, 2022 16:43 |
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There's no visible damage, but I did in the past take a closed pair of sharp-nose tweezers, wrapped the tips in paper towel dunked in alcohol, and used that to clean the passage between the paint cup and where the nozzle seats. I also did this for the rear end end of the paint cup which is probably why I keep getting paint behind the cup but in front of the packing seal. No, I am not usually this dumb. I bought a Iwata cleaning kit recently that has some really nice non-shedding pipe cleaners that do a great job.
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# ? Mar 23, 2022 18:11 |
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Annealing is your friend when rolling PE. Cut the part off the fret, hold it with tweezers and run a lighter under it till it changes color throughout. Let it air cool and you're good. The metal will be very soft and pliable with far less tendency to spring back into shape. From there, you can roll it over anything circular like a pencil, paintbrush, paint bottle... Anything that's roughly the right diameter of the desire bend.
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# ? Mar 23, 2022 18:44 |
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Thanks for the annealing tips/explanation. I wish I had known this a week ago.
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# ? Mar 23, 2022 18:57 |
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Gewehr 43 posted:Annealing is your friend when rolling PE. Cut the part off the fret, hold it with tweezers and run a lighter under it till it changes color throughout. Let it air cool and you're good. The metal will be very soft and pliable with far less tendency to spring back into shape. From there, you can roll it over anything circular like a pencil, paintbrush, paint bottle... Anything that's roughly the right diameter of the desire bend. This is great, I'll have to give it a shot next time I use PE.
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# ? Mar 23, 2022 20:07 |
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I've just finished Hobbyboss's 1/72 Dassault Rafale M, which I embarked on as a bit of a quick OOB build (but ended up taking ages regardless). For this reason I didn't fix the inaccurate nose or the other 'fatal flaws' the kit may be accused of having. I enjoyed trying to replicate the heavily faded markings visible on in-service naval Rafale's by airbrushing very thin coats of the base colour over all the decals, and used AK weathering pencils to try and break up the otherwise fairly dull grey scheme. The base is one of Coastal Kits' pre-printed display bases.
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# ? Mar 24, 2022 01:26 |
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What a beaut, fantastic work
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# ? Mar 24, 2022 06:47 |
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That fairly dull grey scheme has no business looking that good.
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# ? Mar 24, 2022 08:02 |
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Okay, this is just an enjoyable experience: https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/armymenaroundthehouse/
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# ? Mar 25, 2022 02:03 |
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Grumio posted:What a beaut, fantastic work Vorenus posted:That fairly dull grey scheme has no business looking that good. Thanks! I came across this the other day which has inspired me to try and do a more dynamic sea diorama on my next ship build, using a full-hull kit this time.
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# ? Mar 26, 2022 01:46 |
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Is that a feeder container ship? Because that does not look like the kind of seas you want or should be in with any container ship really, especially a feeder.
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# ? Mar 26, 2022 02:35 |
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It’s a general cargo / bulker with a really weird crane configuration, and it’ll be fine. The wave should have broken around the bow though (they don’t wash over the deck quite like that) but it’s a pretty cool diorama.
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# ? Mar 26, 2022 03:55 |
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JuffoWup posted:Is that a feeder container ship? Because that does not look like the kind of seas you want or should be in with any container ship really, especially a feeder. The wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald in 1/300 scale.
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# ? Mar 26, 2022 04:41 |
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Vorenus posted:The wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald in 1/300 scale. Lake boats visibly bend in storms though so that would be hard to do with a plastic model.
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# ? Mar 26, 2022 13:38 |
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FrozenVent posted:Lake boats visibly bend in storms though so that would be hard to do with a plastic model. sounds like a job for the ol heat gun
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# ? Mar 26, 2022 14:35 |
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punishedkissinger posted:sounds like a job for the ol heat gun You've found a new use for propane (torches), Hank Hill would be proud.
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# ? Mar 27, 2022 06:55 |
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Double posting but I bought a replacement HP-CS just because I keep having paint where it shouldn't be despite replacing half the parts. Store price is $150, the poor teenage cashier misread the sticker and put it in for $14.99. I was so tempted to roll with it, but I'm too honest for my own good. Now it's sitting in it's box while I brush paint things.
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# ? Mar 29, 2022 01:30 |
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Vorenus posted:Double posting but I bought a replacement HP-CS just because I keep having paint where it shouldn't be despite replacing half the parts. Store price is $150, the poor teenage cashier misread the sticker and put it in for $14.99. I was so tempted to roll with it, but I'm too honest for my own good. Now it's sitting in it's box while I brush paint things. Now that you have two of them, you can figure out what is wrong with the first one by swapping parts and seeing where the problem follows. I had to do that on a Badger 150 where the O-ring for the air valve was sliding out of the groove when I let air through, but would slide back into it's proper spot once the airflow stopped. When I disassembled it, everything looked exactly as it should. It wasn't until I swapped that part out with one from my other 150 that I narrowed it down to that loose O-ring. I also have an HP-CS, so if you can describe the problem and what you've tried, I might be able to help.
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# ? Mar 29, 2022 13:22 |
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Doesn't Iwata offer a pretty reasonable overhaul service for their airbrushes? Might be worth looking into.
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# ? Mar 29, 2022 13:37 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 12:20 |
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Gewehr 43 posted:Doesn't Iwata offer a pretty reasonable overhaul service for their airbrushes? Might be worth looking into. I know that Badger does; wasn't aware that Iwata did, but I'd like to know as well.
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# ? Mar 29, 2022 17:24 |