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Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

I. M. Gei posted:

Welp, I pruned the blooming peach tree. Not a lot, but enough to get rid of the crossing branches.

It's probably fine.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Is there anything I could do to make my drainage plug more watertight? I'm using a planter from peach and pebble - I take the plant out (it's still in it's black plastic planter), water, let it drain for a bit in the kitchen sink, then put it back in the ceramic planter. Later in the day I don't notice any water, but later in the week some has come out. maybe I need to let it drain longer on watering days?

it's one of these contour planters https://www.peachandpebble.com/products/forest-green-contour-planter?variant=39409672552515

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

actionjackson posted:

Is there anything I could do to make my drainage plug more watertight? I'm using a planter from peach and pebble - I take the plant out (it's still in it's black plastic planter), water, let it drain for a bit in the kitchen sink, then put it back in the ceramic planter. Later in the day I don't notice any water, but later in the week some has come out. maybe I need to let it drain longer on watering days?

it's one of these contour planters https://www.peachandpebble.com/products/forest-green-contour-planter?variant=39409672552515

If you want the plug to be better sealed and you don’t plan on removing it all the time maybe some silicone or even glue. If you want to seal it permanently I’d consider supergluing the plug in place/sealing it with polyacrylamide or really sealing it with the aforementioned silicone.

You could also honestly just try like a square of duct tape over the plug, like on the inside of the pot.

Or yes, let your plants drain longer after watering. Not a bad policy to water before bed and let the plant drain in the sink or tub, or in a tray or whatever overnight

Edit: speaking of trays, you should be able to find a plastic pot liner/tray that fits inside of your pot for like under $2, probably less than $1. Or you could put a tray underneath to catch leaks. Probably much easier and cheaper than going through the trouble of sealing a pot with silicone

trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Mar 26, 2022

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

ok thanks, those are good ideas!

Sous Videodrome
Apr 9, 2020

Hello Horticulture thread,

I've got a rosemary plant. It's a couple years old. This spring it's got some dead(?) branches, which it hasn't had before. Is this a sign of some issue? Too much/too little water? Nutrients?

Or should I just prune off the dead ones and let it do its thing?

Also, just looking at that picture it occurs to me that I should get in there and pull all the grass and weeds out from around the roots.

Anything else?

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Sous Videodrome posted:

I've got a rosemary plant. It's a couple years old. This spring it's got some dead(?) branches, which it hasn't had before. Is this a sign of some issue? Too much/too little water? Nutrients?

Based on the photo and nothing else I would say it's probably just cold damage—it doesn't look like a nutrient or water issue. If it stayed above 20F all winter where you are that probably isn't it, but otherwise rosemary in general is only fully hardy in 8+ or thereabouts outside of some varieties that can handle it colder (Alp is the one I'm specifically familiar with). Now that it's leafed out I'd just prune back the dead parts, no matter what caused it.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Mar 26, 2022

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Sous Videodrome posted:

Hello Horticulture thread,

I've got a rosemary plant. It's a couple years old. This spring it's got some dead(?) branches, which it hasn't had before. Is this a sign of some issue? Too much/too little water? Nutrients?

Or should I just prune off the dead ones and let it do its thing?

Also, just looking at that picture it occurs to me that I should get in there and pull all the grass and weeds out from around the roots.

Anything else?



They look like that often enough here in my PNW coastal 8. Just cut it back to a little below the shape that you want for the plant and it'll send out new growth. It just happens when we get a little too much of a freeze, but your lawn looks like it's in the right zone to just bounce back without issue. Rosemary are easy to prune and shape with some practice, and are very forgiving (except about cold weather).

Also weed the base, yeah. It probably wouldn't complain if you gave it some balanced fertilizer either. If you have hummingbirds around, you could leave the flowers for a couple more weeks if you wanted to see some happy birds too.

Sous Videodrome
Apr 9, 2020

Jhet posted:

If you have hummingbirds around, you could leave the flowers for a couple more weeks if you wanted to see some happy birds too.

Yep, the hummingbirds have been at it. I'm going to use some of the flowers as a garnish on a salad tonight. I learned they were edible when I checked before adding some sprigs to a roast chicken a couple days ago.

Thanks for the tips! I'll prune it down

Nosre
Apr 16, 2002


Hi plant thread. I was thinking on a new succulent I picked up, just a little Haworthia Cooperi, and realized I don't know the answer to a pretty important question:

When should the line in between winter/summer fall for indoor succulents/cacti?

Because it may make a big difference - using this as an example:

quote:

During the summer season, water cooperi Haworthia generously and evenly. Make sure to allow the soil to dry completely between watering.

During the winter season, decrease the amount of water to once a month.

Since conditions indoors don't change nearly as much compared to outside, when do you draw the line to start watering, and fertilizing if appropriate? Any thoughts or tips?

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Nosre posted:

Since conditions indoors don't change nearly as much compared to outside, when do you draw the line to start watering, and fertilizing if appropriate? Any thoughts or tips?

It's not really a clear line, whether indoors or out. Many houseplants (Haworthia among them in my experience) will never go fully dormant if they're indoors where it's warm. A plant's water consumption is relative to how much light it's getting, though, so if it's getting most of its light from a window it will still need a bit less water. Put it in some gritty mix and don't worry about it too much, IMO.

I fertilize all of my succulents around once every six months (probably more like eight to twelve since I don't always remember) with about half the recommended dosage of osmocote. Even with all of them in a gritty mix that has little or no available nutrients that seems to be enough to keep them happy.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Mar 27, 2022

couldcareless
Feb 8, 2009

Spheal used Swagger!
Looking for suggestions on some full shade outdoor plants. Gonna be replacing a strip along the side of our house that the st aug isn't taking to. We are in zone 9.
I was probably gonna do some mondo grass and maybe some ferns but I'm open to some wild suggestions, especially if there's any color to be had in a full shade spot.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


couldcareless posted:

Looking for suggestions on some full shade outdoor plants. Gonna be replacing a strip along the side of our house that the st aug isn't taking to. We are in zone 9.
I was probably gonna do some mondo grass and maybe some ferns but I'm open to some wild suggestions, especially if there's any color to be had in a full shade spot.
Here's a few I see around, I've grown most of these. Some may not do well in really dense shade, I have pretty high filtered shade like under a live oak or pecan.
Ground covers/low plants:
Aspidistra/cast iron plant: 2' high dark green leaves. Does well in dry shade where nothing else will grow.
Wandering Jew: does pretty well under my big gulf coast live oak tree and is purple, but I don't know that it would ever make a really thick ground color.
Ornamental Gingers: they all prefer some shade, but some really like shade and either have pretty flowers or variegated/interesting foliage.
Elephant Ears: There's a bunch of different kinds but they all do well in shade.
Caladiums: If you want color these are hard to beat, but they are expensive. I've not grown them before but I love to look at them. I'm not sure if they will come back every year or not.
Hosta: Alot of Hosta's don't do well on the gulf coast, but a few do. Plantain lily might be one?
Ferns: Holly ferns are nice, and the native wood ferns are very tough.
Agapanthus: These are surprisingly shade tolerant. They won't take super dense shade, but I've been surprised how much shade they can tolerate and still flower.



Shrubs
Camellia: like some shade, but they can get pretty big
Aucuba/gold dust plant: pretty little shrub, but very slow growing and consequently expensive.
Mahonia/Oregon grape: likes shade and has yellow flowers and purple berries. There are some other varieties of mahonia that have different kinds of leaves.

couldcareless
Feb 8, 2009

Spheal used Swagger!
Thanks for the list! Caladiums sound like a plan for sure. Lots of them at nurseries by us and I hadn't even considered them.

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.
You can dig up caladium bulbs in fall and store over the winter.

I've got one sprouting inside, but waiting for Mayish before putting the rest outside.

couldcareless
Feb 8, 2009

Spheal used Swagger!
I've actually left a few in another bed in the ground untouched and they pop back up every year. We don't really get freezes and if we do, they definitely don't freeze anything past the surface.

Annath
Jan 11, 2009

Batatouille is a great and funny play on words for a video game creature and I love silly words like these
Clever Betty
I planted my persimmon trees today!





Hopefully they take...

DasNeonLicht
Dec 25, 2005

"...and the light is on and burning brightly for the masses."
Fallen Rib
I just untangled a slightly rootbound parlor palm / Chamaedorea elegans — some of these roots are crazy long. Would it be appropriate to trim them to the length of the new pot? Or should I just gently coil them in the new pot?

Edit: I ended up coiling them. I also found a few things that said a parlor palm has sensitive roots and shouldn't be repotted that often, so we'll see if I killed it in a few weeks!

DasNeonLicht fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Mar 30, 2022

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

DasNeonLicht posted:

I just untangled a slightly rootbound parlor palm / Chamaedorea elegans — some of these roots are crazy long. Would it be appropriate to trim them to the length of the new pot? Or should I just gently coil them in the new pot?

Edit: I ended up coiling them. I also found a few things that said a parlor palm has sensitive roots and shouldn't be repotted that often, so we'll see if I killed it in a few weeks!

Should be fine, really. Lots of things have "sensitive" roots and it's mostly nonsense in my experience. Honestly most things people say about plants being sensitive is nonsense in my experience. Every other plant you can only move or repot when they're dormant or right when they've woken up or when the moon is full or on the third Sunday of spring or whatever the gently caress and yet, somehow, they're just fine even if you dig them up and move them in the middle of summer as long as you're not an rear end in a top hat about it. I'm 100% convinced half of the poo poo people say about specific plants is based on a thing their mother heard from their grandmother after she killed one with neglect/overwatering and decided it must have actually been the repotting she did four years ago.

Most houseplants are going to end up coiling roots around the pot and it's generally not an issue. With outdoor shrubs and trees and poo poo you have to worry about it because they can end up girdling themselves, but for houseplants it's kind of whatever. In future I wouldn't worry too much about pruning roots, either, as long as the plant has plenty of them. Plants generally respond to root pruning just fine, though for plants that are prone to rot you usually want to hold off on watering for a few days afterwards to let the cuts seal up.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Mar 30, 2022

DasNeonLicht
Dec 25, 2005

"...and the light is on and burning brightly for the masses."
Fallen Rib
I appreciate the advice. My instinct is that plants are fairly resilient, but I'm new to this and not all that sure.

I got a pot of these as a gift a while ago, but one of them fell out while I was repotting them. Can anyone identify it?



Also, to rescue or propagate the rootless plant, it seems the advice in the thread is to lay it flat on soil until I have something with some roots to plant? Is that the right approach here?

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

DasNeonLicht posted:

I appreciate the advice. My instinct is that plants are fairly resilient, but I'm new to this and not all that sure.

I got a pot of these as a gift a while ago, but one of them fell out while I was repotting them. Can anyone identify it?



Also, to rescue or propagate the rootless plant, it seems the advice in the thread is to lay it flat on soil until I have something with some roots to plant? Is that the right approach here?

At first blush that looks like Gasteria bicolor, probably a G bicolor “liliputana”/G bicolor “liliput”.

However the color and patterning/surface texture looks off. Maybe a different kind of Gasteria (Gasteria verrucosa is my guess) or maybe it’s a type of Gasteraloe (Gasteria/Aloe hybrid).

You can let it rest until roots show up, or just pop it in some succulent soil and put it under light and wait 2-3 weeks before watering normally.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

DasNeonLicht posted:

I appreciate the advice. My instinct is that plants are fairly resilient, but I'm new to this and not all that sure.

It's the right instinct. There's plenty of ways to kill them, of course, but they'll work pretty hard not to let you.

DasNeonLicht posted:

Also, to rescue or propagate the rootless plant, it seems the advice in the thread is to lay it flat on soil until I have something with some roots to plant? Is that the right approach here?

With how much of it there is I'd just put it back in the soil honestly (though I'd go with a gritty mix instead). If you're trying to propagate with a single gasteria leaf or something usually you leave them laying on top because you're going to get an entire new plant that will grow from the leaf base (using the leaf for resources and eventually discarding it). What you have there is basically an entire plant with underdeveloped roots.


Ok Comboomer posted:

At first blush that looks like Gasteria bicolor, probably a G bicolor “liliputana”/G bicolor “liliput”.

However the color and patterning/surface texture looks off. Maybe a different kind of Gasteria (Gasteria verrucosa is my guess) or maybe it’s a type of Gasteraloe (Gasteria/Aloe hybrid).

Beat me while I was writing, but yeah. It seems like maybe a gasteria but I can't quite put my finger on it. There's a shitload of hybrids/weird cultivars so who knows.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Apr 2, 2022

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
I have a few monstrose cactus (cereus, etc) propagates that I’d like to ID. Anybody have a good online guide that might help me figure out what species some of them are?

I know I’ve got some Ming Thing but everything else is a mystery.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Ok Comboomer posted:

I have a few monstrose cactus (cereus, etc) propagates that I’d like to ID. Anybody have a good online guide that might help me figure out what species some of them are?

I know I’ve got some Ming Thing but everything else is a mystery.

Best bet is almost certainly Llifle; World of Succulents also occasionally has poo poo they haven't gotten around to. I don't know of any resources that are specific to cristate/monstrose specimens. You can probably narrow it down real quick if you at least know the genus.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Wallet posted:

Best bet is almost certainly Llifle; World of Succulents also occasionally has poo poo they haven't gotten around to. I don't know of any resources that are specific to cristate/monstrose specimens. You can probably narrow it down real quick if you at least know the genus.

turns out Altman Plants has a really barebones but super extensive library of everything they’ve ever distributed with images on their website

This’ll come in handy for ID’ing at nurseries regardless of where from

http://plant-library.altmanplants.com/

trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Apr 3, 2022

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Ok Comboomer posted:

turns out Altman Plants has a really barebones but super extensive library of everything they’ve ever distributed with images on their website

If you have at least a vague idea this programmable search I made a while ago searches a bunch of sites and mostly filters out any results that aren't an actual listing about a specific plant.

JollyBoyJohn
Feb 13, 2019

For Real!
Decided in going to buy some poppies and red sunflowers and spruce up my shared garden, since our old neighbour passed away its gotten a bit run down, also want to do some vegetable growing but not sure where to start

Been looking at making small ponds in containers sunk into the ground which looks neat.

Oh and need to fill up the old bird feeders the neighbour used to maintain! Quite excited to make a project out this

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

JollyBoyJohn posted:

Been looking at making small ponds in containers sunk into the ground which looks neat.

Before you do this, try making some simple container ponds that aren’t sunk into the ground. Try them out for a season and see how they do in your environment WRT stuff like midsummer temps, water movement, etc.

Then once you’ve had a season to work out all the bugs, sink those into the ground.

That said you might find that you appreciate the ability to easily move them around.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!


racking up so many rewards points at Mahoneys that this zesty little Gymno was free

eight(!) inflorescences

Canadian Bakin
Nov 6, 2011

Retaliate first.
I know this thread is primarily about growing things but can anyone tell me how I can kill lamb's ear without nuking the rest of my yard? We bought this place last summer and there was lamb's ear planted around the fish pond. I didn't exactly love it but I could deal with it. Since then, I swear every time I turn around I'm finding a new sprout of it and now I hate it and I want it gone.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Canadian Bakin posted:

I know this thread is primarily about growing things but can anyone tell me how I can kill lamb's ear without nuking the rest of my yard? We bought this place last summer and there was lamb's ear planted around the fish pond. I didn't exactly love it but I could deal with it. Since then, I swear every time I turn around I'm finding a new sprout of it and now I hate it and I want it gone.

You just keep weeding it out, or use broadleaf weed killer. You’ll want to be careful with that if you have fish in the pond.

Save that, you can bake it under a less-permeable cover like big pieces of cardboard or the big bags that soil comes in. Do this if there aren’t plants in there you’re trying to keep. You’ll still miss some, but it’ll be easier to weed out. Don’t let it flower, and do your best to dig out the plants that are left. This is what mint does to the world.

Canadian Bakin
Nov 6, 2011

Retaliate first.

Jhet posted:

You just keep weeding it out, or use broadleaf weed killer. You’ll want to be careful with that if you have fish in the pond.

Save that, you can bake it under a less-permeable cover like big pieces of cardboard or the big bags that soil comes in. Do this if there aren’t plants in there you’re trying to keep. You’ll still miss some, but it’ll be easier to weed out. Don’t let it flower, and do your best to dig out the plants that are left. This is what mint does to the world.

Cheers! I'd read about the weed killer but not the baking trick. I have one garden bed that would work for since the whole thing seems to be lamb's ear and other weeds. The rest is going to have to be manual labor since yes, there are fish in the pond.
Thanks again!

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

Canadian Bakin posted:

I know this thread is primarily about growing things but can anyone tell me how I can kill lamb's ear without nuking the rest of my yard? We bought this place last summer and there was lamb's ear planted around the fish pond. I didn't exactly love it but I could deal with it. Since then, I swear every time I turn around I'm finding a new sprout of it and now I hate it and I want it gone.

Lambs ear is edible. Start making salads.

skylined!
Apr 6, 2012

THE DEM DEFENDER HAS LOGGED ON
Hello plant thread. A short plug - my hobby is now a side hustle, to support my hobby. I registered a business, am doing a local farmer's market stall, selling locally and shipping soon. PM me if you want a link to my online shop and live anywhere between Auburn and Atlanta - I am local to Columbus but drive to both about once a month and can meet for a sale or swap.

My most recent favorites. Here is a new (to me) Philo florida ghost I repotted and got situated on a pole. It's beautiful, and came with a friend that is currently flowering.





And my Aglaonema pictum tri-color (bi-color?) I've had for about a year, that's starting to take off this Spring.


Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
So much for the rumor that Costa Farms was going to make these cheap and widely available.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I want to transplant my snake plant directly into the pot. I've had it for 3-4 years and it's been inside it's plastic container. The pot has a drainage hole. If I do this, will I need a plug for when I'm not watering it so that soil doesn't come out? Though I guess since it's sitting on a tray to collect the water it probably won't be much of an issue.

Hutla
Jun 5, 2004

It's mechanical
No, leave the plug out completely if you're not using an inner pot. Some people put a little bit of mesh over the hole, but the soil will compact itself after a few waterings enough that you don't really loose any more when watering.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

ok thanks!

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002
Or put a small layer of crushed stone at the bottom

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

In the fall I put in like 400 spring bulbs from Van Engelen, including 50 Scilla bifolia cv. Rosea which are supposed to look like this:


They're starting to come up and flower. Neat! Strangely, though, mine look like this :confused:



Somehow instead of 50 of the Scilla I ordered, they appear to have sent me a bag with a mixture of every taxa of Scilla they sell. If they had just sent me the wrong kind I would sort of get it, but they don't even offer a variety pack. I'm really hoping that the 100 Muscari that are getting close to flowering aren't surprise technicolor. They have not (yet) responded to my inquiries.

So I guess the point of this post is to buy bulbs from someone else, if you're buying bulbs. I hear good things about John Scheepers.

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Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


drat, that sucks. I love blue scilla, but the variety you actually ordered (and paid more for, I'm betting) is gorgeous. I hope Van Engelen eventually makes good.

I love your tidy little plant labels, too. What are you using, and how well does it weather? I've used copper tags, but they are more artsy than permanent, and Sharpie on plastic tags tends to fade.

I've had good results from Van Engelen and I hope they haven't tanked. John Scheepers is the same company.

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