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TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!

melon cat posted:

I did clean them with all purpose cleaner a few times. But I also did the same with the rest of the light switches in the main and upper floors but only the basement switches have so far been affected. Brand is Lutron (what can I say- I splurge on light switch brands)

The cleaner is likely a contributing factor. It's not recommended to clean the switches with anything other than dish soap and water.

I can't speak to the humidity, I'm not a materials guy and I'm only familiar with the cleaner problem and resulting failures.

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Perfect. Now hopefully someone who knows how nest's work can help you out. :v: Basically each of those does a different function, and the nest needs to be told which ones do which. From there it can take over. Probably the big thing with 2 stage heat is some cutover threshold to engage the second stage.

Xenix
Feb 21, 2003
I had a refrigerator problem for the longest time. It was dripping water into the refrigerator compartment from the freezer and it was the common problem: something got into the condensate drain line and led to an ice plug forming. I fixed that problem but now have another.

When I turned the fridge back on after unclogging the condensate drain, the fan in the freezer compartment didn't sound like it was turning on and the fridge compartment wasn't cooling to its normal temperature. I also realized I can't adjust the fridge temp via the buttons inside. I think the problem is the fan in the freezer compartment isn't turning on to circulate the air. I removed the back panel and checked that it was plugged in and would spin freely when I touched it.

I think my next step is to check the voltage on the wires connecting to the fan and the resistance on the leads to the fan. Does that sound like the right direction to go in?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

any suggestions for a VERY tiny chip on a white laminate surface? you can barely feel it if you run your finger over it, however the desk surface is somewhat glossy, like a satin finish, so it's noticeable when the light hits it, which is often. it's super thin and 1/4-1/2" long. I know there is seamfil, where you can use the white and then the glossy version on top to match the sheen, but that really seems like overkill.

hambeet
Sep 13, 2002

It値l depend on the gloss and colour. I致e used automotive touch up paint pens on some, high gloss nail polish on others. It値l never be 100% again but hopefully you値l notice it less.

I feel the automotive touch up paint pens worked the best.

Be interested to hear what others have done.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

maybe this one? apparently it's glossy https://www.homedepot.com/p/Mohawk-3-in-1-True-White-Repair-Tool-Touch-Up-Marker-Filler-Leveler-M319-3001B/303688541

the surface is a very bright white

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Maybe. Buy it and try it in an inconspicuous area.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

looking at it again it's not even really a chip, just a scratch

I'll see what the company that makes the desk says as well. thanks for the help!

edit: they said I would have to return and, and then they would inspect, and if they agree it needs to be replaced send a new one... so I just like, don't have a desk for two weeks? lol

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Apr 1, 2022

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I going put fancy radon cap on my sup pump. I requires drilling into concrete floor in my basement. I have a Dewalt hammer drill and some Bosch masonry bits from a project where I added an outlet to a brick wall. There anything special I know before drilling concrete? My plan is drill hole, use shop vac, use impact driver, repeat.

Xenix
Feb 21, 2003

Calidus posted:

I going put fancy radon cap on my sup pump. I requires drilling into concrete floor in my basement. I have a Dewalt hammer drill and some Bosch masonry bits from a project where I added an outlet to a brick wall. There anything special I know before drilling concrete? My plan is drill hole, use shop vac, use impact driver, repeat.

How many holes do you need to drill? I'd recommend just renting or borrowing a rotohammer if you need to drill a bunch of holes or if they're going to be deeper than a couple of inches. It'll potentially save you a lot of time. I've drilled holes in pots with masonry bits, some of which have taken an entire battery to get through. I recently drilled some 3-inch deep holes thin a concrete curb with a rotohammer, and each was done in about 5 seconds.

Once you've got the holes drilled, you should either jet them out with compressed air or brush them out with a wire brush. Both epoxy set anchors and redheads need clean holes.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Calidus posted:

I going put fancy radon cap on my sup pump. I requires drilling into concrete floor in my basement. I have a Dewalt hammer drill and some Bosch masonry bits from a project where I added an outlet to a brick wall. There anything special I know before drilling concrete? My plan is drill hole, use shop vac, use impact driver, repeat.

Assuming you have an actual plug in hammer drill you should probably be just fine as long as you're using the right bits and you don't let them get so hot they turn to garbage (and you use the handle properly so it's actually hammering).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Wallet posted:

Assuming you have an actual plug in hammer drill you should probably be just fine as long as you're using the right bits and you don't let them get so hot they turn to garbage (and you use the handle properly so it's actually hammering).

This sounds like we're talking about a half a dozen tapcons which I've done on many occasions on well under a single battery on a bog standard dewalt 20v hammer drill. You just need to have a proper masonry bit.

hambeet
Sep 13, 2002


yeah something like that, seconding test it somewhere inconspicuous.



Motronic posted:

This sounds like we're talking about a half a dozen tapcons which I've done on many occasions on well under a single battery on a bog standard dewalt 20v hammer drill. You just need to have a proper masonry bit.

yeah, investing in quality bits makes a huge difference to a job.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

hambeet posted:

yeah something like that, seconding test it somewhere inconspicuous.

yeah, investing in quality bits makes a huge difference to a job.

Yeah I drilled like 6 3in holes into the slab of our house with my little Milwaukee 12v and it surprised me how quick and easy it was. Did buy tapcon bits. (dunno how they are compared to anything else though)

hambeet
Sep 13, 2002

same with blades for circular saws. i can't think of how many times i kept getting out my corded saw because i thought my cordless had zero guts. but i was a dumbass using the included blade thinking it would be fine.

i bought a better blade on a whim and it was like night and day.

Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!
Air conditioner question:

I'm renting a townhome. Central AC, with air handler + filter on 2nd floor. Starting tonight, I can hear the air handler dripping water in to the drip pan. First time in 4 months I've heard it doing that.

My google skills says that is the purpose of a drip pan but its weird that this is the first time it has occurred (that I've noticed). Any thoughts on what the deal could be?

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
Is the local humidity higher now than over the previous several months? Are you getting a lot of rain? Do you live in the south?

If yes to any of those questions, it is probably normal.

Check the drip pan regularly for the next few days, but that's pretty normal. If it starts filling up or overflowing the pan, call your landlord.

Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

Is the local humidity higher now than over the previous several months? Are you getting a lot of rain? Do you live in the south?

If yes to any of those questions, it is probably normal.

Check the drip pan regularly for the next few days, but that's pretty normal. If it starts filling up or overflowing the pan, call your landlord.

Yes, I do live in the south and all the fun that comes with it (except no rain lately). I appreciate the advice on will keep an eye on the drip pan to see what it does.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Hughmoris posted:

Yes, I do live in the south and all the fun that comes with it (except no rain lately). I appreciate the advice on will keep an eye on the drip pan to see what it does.

Also check where it drains. Does it drain outside somewhere? Is that also dripping? Working fine. Otherwise eventually it will overflow.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

H110Hawk posted:

Also check where it drains. Does it drain outside somewhere? Is that also dripping? Working fine. Otherwise eventually it will overflow.

Yeah, a house i lived at in Texas only used the drip pan when the drain line got clogged.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

Hughmoris posted:

Air conditioner question:

I'm renting a townhome. Central AC, with air handler + filter on 2nd floor. Starting tonight, I can hear the air handler dripping water in to the drip pan. First time in 4 months I've heard it doing that.

My google skills says that is the purpose of a drip pan but its weird that this is the first time it has occurred (that I've noticed). Any thoughts on what the deal could be?

Check to see if:

1) There is another drain that isn't, well, draining. If so, find where it exits and see if a shop vac unclogs it.
2) The drip pan is the only place that it drains, but you're hearing the dripping now because the water is accumulating instead of draining. If so ... find where it exits and see if a shop vac unclogs it.

Doing this now is much better than finding water damage from the drip pan overflowing. Ask me how I know!

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Installing that radon cover was a bigger pita than expected. Completely forgot about the required pipe work to get everything to connect again after installation.

Wanderless
Apr 30, 2009
Reposting a question from the home repair thread that didn't have any hits:

I'm renovating my kitchen soon and am trying to find a quiet and effective range hood. (I understand there are limits to how quiet you can get with a bunch of airflow happening).

Right now I've identified a reasonably quiet model with good reviews, https://www.hauslane.com/products/ps18?variant=12409615450186
I recall reading somewhere about remote fan options, but the ones I've found from random googling don't seem to be any quieter than decent quality integral fan units. Does anyone have suggestions for good models of either? 30" wide, ideally >8" deep under cabinet mount.
Even good brands to start with would be good, as googling just gets me a bunch of SEO'd results.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
Well gently caress, I'm panicking a little bit about a fence I'm building. I've put up about 20 feet of pressure treated pickets so far, and have been doing a 1/4 inch gap between them per some random diy fence article I had found. Now I'm seeing an equal mix of sites that say "definitely leave a gap for expansion" versus "install them tight, because they're gonna shrink and make their own gap".

Goons, wtf do I do? I would rather my 1/4 inch gaps don't turn into 1/2 gaps. Eastern NC, for what it's worth, so humidity is pretty high as a general rule.

Slugworth fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Apr 3, 2022

hambeet
Sep 13, 2002

ummm treated pine only ever shrinks in my experience, but i am from a continent that is dryer than where you are (average annual humidity for me is around 56%)

however it's not an issue because for a paling fence we would overlap them, alternating, so that they can expand or contract freely if required. the first run of palings would be spaced apart roughly 50/75% of the width of a paling , and then a second run would go over the top of these gaps.

but that might not work for the type of fence / look you're going for sorry


here's a pic of what i'm kind of talking about:

Only registered members can see post attachments!

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I'm having trouble thinking of things that could plausibly be excluded by a 1/4" gap fence, but not by a 1/2" gap. Are you concerned about aesthetics, or people looking through your fence?

My experience with pressure-treated lumber is that it's usually delivered sopping wet, so it will probably shrink some. But 1/4" of shrinkage sounds like a lot. How wide are the pickets? The wider they are, the more they can change size in absolute terms.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

hambeet posted:

ummm treated pine only ever shrinks in my experience, but i am from a continent that is dryer than where you are (average annual humidity for me is around 56%)

however it's not an issue because for a paling fence we would overlap them, alternating, so that they can expand or contract freely if required. the first run of palings would be spaced apart roughly 50/75% of the width of a paling , and then a second run would go over the top of these gaps.

but that might not work for the type of fence / look you're going for sorry


here's a pic of what i'm kind of talking about :


We call that board on board around here, and according to a fence guy I spoke to, it doesn't fare as well to high wind as one with gaps. We get lots of wind, so I opted for traditional style. I thought about shadowbox, but that's a bit less privacy than I'd like.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I'm having trouble thinking of things that could plausibly be excluded by a 1/4" gap fence, but not by a 1/2" gap. Are you concerned about aesthetics, or people looking through your fence?

My experience with pressure-treated lumber is that it's usually delivered sopping wet, so it will probably shrink some. But 1/4" of shrinkage sounds like a lot. How wide are the pickets? The wider they are, the more they can change size in absolute terms.
Yeah, just aesthetics primarily. The pickets are 5.5", so a quarter inch would be 5 percent shrinkage. No clue what kind of percent is reasonable to expect.

Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!

H110Hawk posted:

Also check where it drains. Does it drain outside somewhere? Is that also dripping? Working fine. Otherwise eventually it will overflow.

tetrapyloctomy posted:

Check to see if:

1) There is another drain that isn't, well, draining. If so, find where it exits and see if a shop vac unclogs it.
2) The drip pan is the only place that it drains, but you're hearing the dripping now because the water is accumulating instead of draining. If so ... find where it exits and see if a shop vac unclogs it.

Doing this now is much better than finding water damage from the drip pan overflowing. Ask me how I know!

The problem has seemingly stopped (for now). I'm wondering if the issue was directly related to the fact that I live in the south and had my windows open all day, which likely caused an increase in humidity in the house, which caused the temporary dripping in to the pan when the AC was turned back on.

I'll keep an eye on it and will start chasing things down (and alerting landlord) if it persists. Thanks for the tips!

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
I've woken up in Memphis on April mornings absolutely drenched in sweat, don't underestimate southern humidity.

Also don't underestimate your electric bill this summer when that AC is running all day. Insulation? In a southern home? No! $600 power bills!

I'm never moving below a mile above sea level again.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Hughmoris posted:

The problem has seemingly stopped (for now). I'm wondering if the issue was directly related to the fact that I live in the south and had my windows open all day, which likely caused an increase in humidity in the house, which caused the temporary dripping in to the pan when the AC was turned back on.

I'll keep an eye on it and will start chasing things down (and alerting landlord) if it persists. Thanks for the tips!

You should still go try and find the drain if you can so that you can investigate this quickly. What's the humidity outside where you live right? In Florida a ac system can start overflowing into your ceiling in basically hours. Oh it's 90f AND raining outside? Good luck air conditioner condensate drain!

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Slugworth posted:

Yeah, just aesthetics primarily. The pickets are 5.5", so a quarter inch would be 5 percent shrinkage. No clue what kind of percent is reasonable to expect.

I'm operating entirely off of intuition here, given that I don't know the board species, how wet it is, or what your year-round climate is like. But I think you'll be fine.

haveblue
Aug 15, 2005



Toilet Rascal
I need to remove a chunk of wood from my stair railing shoe. What would be the best approach and/or tool for this? It's the volume between the two strips of tape here, back to the plane of the post side:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Oscillating tool

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Motronic posted:

Oscillating tool

Agreed. Keep in mind you'll need to make 3 cuts here: one straight down following the post, and then two where the strips of tape are. The oscillating tool is the only tool I know of that can effectively do that first cut.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

The oscillating tool is the only tool I know of that can effectively do that first cut.

The only other alternative is hammer and chisel as far as I know. Ain't nobody got time for that.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


Ok so a bit ago I was asking for help with my Nest and it sounds like these things are kind of a pain in the rear end. Lots of angst on the HVAC subreddit. My biggest pro for it is that it can tell when we aren't home and adjust the schedule but I really have no concept for how much that actually saves us. I suppose if we regularly but randomly were gone for half the day it could help but unless the house is extremely drafty I would imagine the actual heat loss isn't going to be outrageous if the house is empty for several hours? Is there a way for me to figure this out?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

Ok so a bit ago I was asking for help with my Nest and it sounds like these things are kind of a pain in the rear end. Lots of angst on the HVAC subreddit. My biggest pro for it is that it can tell when we aren't home and adjust the schedule but I really have no concept for how much that actually saves us. I suppose if we regularly but randomly were gone for half the day it could help but unless the house is extremely drafty I would imagine the actual heat loss isn't going to be outrageous if the house is empty for several hours? Is there a way for me to figure this out?

So you want a programmable thermostat with an "occupancy sensor" feature. That's not something Nest invented. Not even close.

Nest stats are garbage for many reasons. The one that has caused me problems multiple times are the very lovely SSRs they use in the base (solid state relays). They fail in interesting ways - anything from simply not working anymore to being partially "open".

My favorite was when the Y wire one got stuck on enough to energize the contactor on my AC compressor - without the inside unit off. That's a real quick way to blow up a compressor. All from what is a well known, probably still not entirely solved, failure mode of an IOT junk thermostat that is being sold at a premium price.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

Ok so a bit ago I was asking for help with my Nest and it sounds like these things are kind of a pain in the rear end. Lots of angst on the HVAC subreddit. My biggest pro for it is that it can tell when we aren't home and adjust the schedule but I really have no concept for how much that actually saves us. I suppose if we regularly but randomly were gone for half the day it could help but unless the house is extremely drafty I would imagine the actual heat loss isn't going to be outrageous if the house is empty for several hours? Is there a way for me to figure this out?

The HVAC subreddit probably hates it because they know a lot more about their trade than a homeowner does. A robot thermostat is one lever in the HVAC efficiency game, but it's not the most important one. The things that will really move the needle are proper insulation, clean filters, properly designed/sized/balanced system, and having your equipment well maintained and on a service schedule.

The Nest is like $100 though and those other things cost more or are harder to do. I have one and it's definitely paid for itself when it replaced an old manual thermostat with no timer, especially since I could remember to turn it off on my phone when leaving on vacation.

As far as how much heat you're losing, well, there's a way to know that! You want what's called a blower door test. You seal all your doors and windows as usual, and they put an airtight cover on the front door with a hole and a giant fan sucking out air. The inside of the house is then in a negative pressure state, and the machine will measure how well sealed your house is by how many air changes happen over a period of time. This will tell you IF you have insulation leaks, but not necessarily where. At the same appointment someone will walk around with a FLIR camera and find the drafty spots around windows, doors, ceilings, even electric outlets. Then you make a plan to seal those up and retest.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015
As Motronic said, Nest is just a brand name riding the wave of IoT. They are hardly the only game in town.

If your HVAC system is made by a major brand I'd be willing to bet that the manufacturer offers a thermostat that does what you want and is actually designed to work with your unit.

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nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

PremiumSupport posted:

As Motronic said, Nest is just a brand name riding the wave of IoT. They are hardly the only game in town.

If your HVAC system is made by a major brand I'd be willing to bet that the manufacturer offers a thermostat that does what you want and is actually designed to work with your unit.

No kidding? I値l have to look into that. Literally the only redeeming thing I like about my nest is the ability to change the temperature while I知 in bed or coming home from vacation.

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